Another new trailer to haul the Spyder

[Eviltwin]

Not trying to thread hijack a similar post, but I've also been working on a new trailer to haul the trike. In my case, I recently sold my pickup since it wasn't being used much, so I decided to get a trailer to haul the bike as well as cargo that wont fit in the car. My car has a tow rating of 2000 lbs and we also have an RV that can tow 5000. The Spyder will be our "Toad" when we go on trips.

Since the car can only tow 2000, I wanted the trailer to be as light as possible. This aluma weighs in around 625 empty and is 78" by 120" (10') long. Tongue weight is critical on the car so I wanted to keep it around 10% or 200 lbs. The RV doesnt matter. To make sure I have the trike parked in exactly the same spot each time as well as adding a physical restraint in addition to the tie downs, I had a local sheet metal shop fab up two aluminum wheel chocks for me for around 50 each. These were mounted to the bed with Stainless bolts. I also added an aluminum box to the front to hold the tie downs and other misc junk. This weekend I added 4 more stainless D ring tie downs from Amazon that are rated for 6K each at around 6 bucks each with stainless hardware. The only issue I had when I set the whole rig up was that the ramp is a bit short so the trike bottomed out a bit right as it went over the hump. I ended up using the tongue jack to lift up the front about 3 inches which seemed to work fine.

Here are the pix:

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[CharlieIndia]

Like to know, how much for the trailer? Nice setup:thumbup:

[YIRYDE]

Nice Mercedes.

[UtahPete]

Like to know, how much for the trailer? Nice setup:thumbup:
I have same trailer. I think they still list for about $2k

[Eviltwin]

Like to know, how much for the trailer? Nice setup:thumbup:

With tax and license it was about 2200. They gave me a 75 dollar credit for store merchandise, so I used that for 4 heavy duty tie down straps.

[4 MARIE]

Well, I have an Aluma 72- 120 also. The bi-fold ramp, has a slight natural arch in the middle, that gives my RT and my mower,
the clearance needed, with no extra "stuff". Maybe your trailer dealer would swap ramp gates with you ?
Also. maybe you can work out a locking pin arrangement on your chocks, so you aren't using all that floor space all the time ?
I have to multi-use my trailer. Spyder, Ranger, mower, they all have to fit.
I like your goodie box also. Ryde safe.

[Chupaca]

Looks like you found the perfect trailer and modified it to fit your towing needs. :clap: and it looks great....:2thumbs:

[Eviltwin]

Well, I have an Aluma 72- 120 also. The bi-fold ramp, has a slight natural arch in the middle, that gives my RT and my mower,
the clearance needed, with no extra "stuff". Maybe your trailer dealer would swap ramp gates with you ?
Also. maybe you can work out a locking pin arrangement on your chocks, so you aren't using all that floor space all the time ?
I have to multi-use my trailer. Spyder, Ranger, mower, they all have to fit.
I like your goodie box also. Ryde safe.


Like everything in life, this one was a bit of a compromise. It was what the dealer had on the lot and it was on sale. I had looked for about 6 months for a used trailer but never saw anything that wasn't close to what this was new. They sell a MC version that has a lower bed and probably a longer ramp and it slides underneath, but that was a good 1000 more.

As for the chocks mounted on top, I did consider trying to engineer something that would make them easier to remove if needed, but I came to the conclusion that it probably wasn't necessary. Only time it would make a difference for me would be if I was to haul some 4x8 sheet goods of some sort and I haven't had to buy any of that material in a while. With stuff like lumber and such, it should all fit in between just fine. Worst case, I spend a half hour or so and unbolt them.

Only other mod I might make is to add some sort of short set of rails or such. Dealer wanted about 400 to add those on and I can probably have the sheet metal shop fab up something for half the price.

[blacklightning]

I am purchasing a 6'x12', enclosed Uhaul trailer today. Unfortunately the dimensions to the door opening is only 2" wider than the width of my spyder (out to out). I was really hoping that it would be able to haul it, since it is the perfect little trailer. I am getting it for a great deal. I like the fact that it is enclosed, low profile, and has a dual axle. I am purchasing it to actually haul furniture from my wife's aunts home, so it is perfect for that. I ride my spyder and bikes 100% of the time, but it would be nice to have the trailer for another option. After moving all the furniture and such, I might look at selling it and using the funds to pick up me a 6 or 7 x 12 open trailer. On another note, it will easily haul 3 bikes.

[sidecarrick]

I am planning to deliver a car to another state and was wondering if I used this trailer for towing the spyder would I be able to tow the trailer back home using the spyder?

[Grandpot]

I am planning to deliver a car to another state and was wondering if I used this trailer for towing the spyder would I be able to tow the trailer back home using the spyder?

That trailer must weigh over 800 pounds. The Spyder might tow it, but it won't stop it. Recipe for disaster!

[bushrat]

Like everything in life, this one was a bit of a compromise. It was what the dealer had on the lot and it was on sale. I had looked for about 6 months for a used trailer but never saw anything that wasn't close to what this was new. They sell a MC version that has a lower bed and probably a longer ramp and it slides underneath, but that was a good 1000 more.

As for the chocks mounted on top, I did consider trying to engineer something that would make them easier to remove if needed, but I came to the conclusion that it probably wasn't necessary. Only time it would make a difference for me would be if I was to haul some 4x8 sheet goods of some sort and I haven't had to buy any of that material in a while. With stuff like lumber and such, it should all fit in between just fine. Worst case, I spend a half hour or so and unbolt them.

Only other mod I might make is to add some sort of short set of rails or such. Dealer wanted about 400 to add those on and I can probably have the sheet metal shop fab up something for half the price.

Nice trailer, and nice job of fitting it to haul your Spyder. I have a similar 'home-made' rig, of aluminum, put together by a professional fabricating shop. I love it. The only thing that would concern me about your set-up is whether that loading ramp could possibly fold forward in the event of a panic stop or impact, thereby whacking and damaging the rear of your Spyder. How is it secured to prevent forward movement? Is there anything that could let go or isn't strong enough to hold it firmly in place? What might possibly go wrong? These are all questions I like to try to think of before s**t happens. As for short side rails, my rig doesn't have any; I have pondered whether or not to add them. So far I have resisted and really don't miss them or find much need. Just something more to get in the way or to trip over when loading/unloading. You may have a different need or use, but I'd be inclined to save the money for now; wait and see whether a need occurs that makes them more essential.

Safe travels. Just don't let that high ramp whack your bike in the butt like a swinging door. Ouch!!

[jaherbst]

​ Nice set up and good trailer. I would make one suggestion and that would be to put an air guard/shield in the front to prevent rock chips on the Spyder. 24-30 " would work fine. I have the Aluma UT-10 which comes with the guard. One of the reasons I bought it.Take a look at it online to see the front guard for ideas. It is made from Diamond plate aluminum.

Jack

[Eviltwin]

Nice trailer, and nice job of fitting it to haul your Spyder. I have a similar 'home-made' rig, of aluminum, put together by a professional fabricating shop. I love it. The only thing that would concern me about your set-up is whether that loading ramp could possibly fold forward in the event of a panic stop or impact, thereby whacking and damaging the rear of your Spyder. How is it secured to prevent forward movement? Is there anything that could let go or isn't strong enough to hold it firmly in place? What might possibly go wrong? These are all questions I like to try to think of before s**t happens. As for short side rails, my rig doesn't have any; I have pondered whether or not to add them. So far I have resisted and really don't miss them or find much need. Just something more to get in the way or to trip over when loading/unloading. You may have a different need or use, but I'd be inclined to save the money for now; wait and see whether a need occurs that makes them more essential.

Safe travels. Just don't let that high ramp whack your bike in the butt like a swinging door. Ouch!!

When the ramp is secured, it isnt going anywhere. There are two aluminum bars that lock the ramp upright at one of three angles on both sides of the trailer.

[Eviltwin]

I am planning to deliver a car to another state and was wondering if I used this trailer for towing the spyder would I be able to tow the trailer back home using the spyder?

From the factory it weighs around 625 and I think the max the Spyder can pull is 400. In order to pull a Spyder, you need a trailer wider than 63 inches and at least 8 feet long, if not longer. It would be the tail wagging the dog for sure.

[Eviltwin]

​ Nice set up and good trailer. I would make one suggestion and that would be to put an air guard/shield in the front to prevent rock chips on the Spyder. 24-30 " would work fine. I have the Aluma UT-10 which comes with the guard. One of the reasons I bought it.Take a look at it online to see the front guard for ideas. It is made from Diamond plate aluminum.

Jack

I'm thinking about it. I may get the sheetmetal shop to quote me for 3 sides, though I doubt it would be Diamond plate since that would add some weight to the trailer, esp in the front.

[johnsimion]

I am purchasing a 6'x12', enclosed Uhaul trailer today. Unfortunately the dimensions to the door opening is only 2" wider than the width of my spyder (out to out). I was really hoping that it would be able to haul it, since it is the perfect little trailer. I am getting it for a great deal. I like the fact that it is enclosed, low profile, and has a dual axle. I am purchasing it to actually haul furniture from my wife's aunts home, so it is perfect for that. I ride my spyder and bikes 100% of the time, but it would be nice to have the trailer for another option. After moving all the furniture and such, I might look at selling it and using the funds to pick up me a 6 or 7 x 12 open trailer. On another note, it will easily haul 3 bikes.

I'd like to get a trailer for myself, but I've been hesitant because I'm not sure how wide I have to get. I don't have a lot of extra space and I don't want a trailer that's overly wide. Elsewhere I thought I'd read that you needed a 7' trailer to fit the Spyder, and there are videos on YouTube where a company advertises a 6.5' x 12' trailer set up for the Spyder. Yours sounds great if it'll work, but is 6' wide enough? My understanding is that the Spyder is 63" wide (5'-3") and you'd need a couple of inches maneuvering room. Obviously 6' exceeds that, but how is the 6' wide measured? Is that the interior of the trailer or the overall width of the trailer, including the wheels and fenders? And, do the fenders intrude into the interior of the trailer?

[UtahPete]

I'd like to get a trailer for myself, but I've been hesitant because I'm not sure how wide I have to get. I don't have a lot of extra space and I don't want a trailer that's overly wide. Elsewhere I thought I'd read that you needed a 7' trailer to fit the Spyder, and there are videos on YouTube where a company advertises a 6.5' x 12' trailer set up for the Spyder. Yours sounds great if it'll work, but is 6' wide enough? My understanding is that the Spyder is 63" wide (5'-3") and you'd need a couple of inches maneuvering room. Obviously 6' exceeds that, but how is the 6' wide measured? Is that the interior of the trailer or the overall width of the trailer, including the wheels and fenders? And, do the fenders intrude into the interior of the trailer?
Usually it's the width of the bed (outside edges). Most of the manufacturers provide dimensions of the trailers. Aluma I think is pretty good about that. This is the one I have;
https://www.alumaklm.com/utility/single-axle/7210-utility-trailer

Model: 7210
Weight: 450#
Bed Size: 72" x 120"


Overall width = 93.5"
Overall length = 168"

[blacklightning]

I'd like to get a trailer for myself, but I've been hesitant because I'm not sure how wide I have to get. I don't have a lot of extra space and I don't want a trailer that's overly wide. Elsewhere I thought I'd read that you needed a 7' trailer to fit the Spyder, and there are videos on YouTube where a company advertises a 6.5' x 12' trailer set up for the Spyder. Yours sounds great if it'll work, but is 6' wide enough? My understanding is that the Spyder is 63" wide (5'-3") and you'd need a couple of inches maneuvering room. Obviously 6' exceeds that, but how is the 6' wide measured? Is that the interior of the trailer or the overall width of the trailer, including the wheels and fenders? And, do the fenders intrude into the interior of the trailer?
The Uhaul, enclosed trailer that I have measures 6'-0"X11'-10" inside. The fenders are outside. The negative for this trailer is that the height of the opening is only 5'-0" tall. The biggest thing that will stop me from using it to trailer the spyder is the 5'-1" wide door. My spyder is exactly 4'-11" wide at the widest point. I know what the book says, and I know what I was always told. But for some reason I am at exactly 4'-11". I took the same measurement on my friends RT on yesterday. His is exactly 5'-1" wide. Before someone says I measured it wrong, no, I didn't, and I don't understand it either.:dontknow:

[UtahPete]

I'm thinking about it. I may get the sheetmetal shop to quote me for 3 sides, though I doubt it would be Diamond plate since that would add some weight to the trailer, esp in the front.
Aluminum diamond plate isn't heavy. And, it comes in various thicknesses.
You're thinking of steel, perhaps?

[bushrat]

Not to hijack EvilTwin's thread, but since others have chimed in about alternate trailer choices, and some have asked questions re measurements (minimum requirements), I thought maybe I would post some pics and comments about my own little rig. This trailer was designed by a friend to haul his Spyder RT to FL and back (ON); it has made about a half-dozen round trips over the past 5 years, all without incident. The trailer is welded aluminum throughout, and was built at a fabricating shop to his custom order. It is officially registered as 'home-made' with a weight of 350 lbs. Overall length is 12'; bed length is 96" and bed width between wheel wells is 66". Tires are 13". Rides on a 3500 lb. drop axle with leaf springs. Bed height is about 12" above ground level. In short, a strong, light weight trailer; doesn't have full floor or nose guard. A sort of 'minimalist' trailer. An RT will load with 2" clearance either side; my F3 has 3-1/2" either side, and I use a 'finished' 4"x4" block on the outside of each front wheel to prevent sideways creep. The front wheels ride against the short plates at front of bed, meaning that the nose (frunk) of the Spyder is somewhat over the spare and just misses the tongue jack. Photos show the tri-fold (hinged) side ramps which fold onto the side planks of the trailer; the third ramp for rear wheel lifts off and is bolted to the frame below the Spyder when travelling. Handles well at Interstate speeds. I went south last fall without a cover and had torrential rains. Coming north, I used a BRP trailering cover, and found I got lots of dust collecting underneath; nothing a good bath won't fix. No other issues so far. Load-wise (with Spyder on-board), I'm hauling less than 1400 lbs. total, well within the capacity of both the trailer axle weight and my vehicle's towing ability. Could probably even tow it with my Spyder if I had a hitch. Very light to move around when storing.
160551160552160553

[Eviltwin]

Not to hijack EvilTwin's thread, but since others have chimed in about alternate trailer choices, and some have asked questions re measurements (minimum requirements), I thought maybe I would post some pics and comments about my own little rig. This trailer was designed by a friend to haul his Spyder RT to FL and back (ON); it has made about a half-dozen round trips over the past 5 years, all without incident. The trailer is welded aluminum throughout, and was built at a fabricating shop to his custom order. It is officially registered as 'home-made' with a weight of 350 lbs. Overall length is 12'; bed length is 96" and bed width between wheel wells is 66". Tires are 13". In short, it is a strong, light weight trailer; doesn't have full floor or nose guard. A sort of 'minimalist' trailer. An RT will load with 2" clearance either side; my F3 has 3-1/2" either side, and I use a 'finished' 4"x4" block on the outside of each front wheel to prevent sideways creep. The front wheels ride against the short plates at front of bed, meaning that the nose (frunk) of the Spyder is somewhat over the spare and just misses the tongue jack. Photos show the tri-fold (hinged) side ramps which fold onto the side planks of the trailer; the third ramp for rear wheel lifts off and is bolted to the frame below the Spyder when travelling. Handles well at Interstate speeds. I went south last fall without a cover and had torrential rains. Coming north, I used a BRP trailering cover, and found I got lots of dust collecting underneath; nothing a good bath won't fix. No other issues so far. Load-wise (with Spyder on-board), I'm hauling less than 1400 lbs. total, well within the capacity of both the trailer axle weight and my vehicle's towing ability. Could probably even tow it with my Spyder if I had a hitch. Very light to move around when storing.
160551160552160553

That is a very cool little trailer. Kinda minimal in some ways, but it keeps the weight way down. Whoever designed it was very clever.

[Eviltwin]

I'd like to get a trailer for myself, but I've been hesitant because I'm not sure how wide I have to get. I don't have a lot of extra space and I don't want a trailer that's overly wide. Elsewhere I thought I'd read that you needed a 7' trailer to fit the Spyder, and there are videos on YouTube where a company advertises a 6.5' x 12' trailer set up for the Spyder. Yours sounds great if it'll work, but is 6' wide enough? My understanding is that the Spyder is 63" wide (5'-3") and you'd need a couple of inches maneuvering room. Obviously 6' exceeds that, but how is the 6' wide measured? Is that the interior of the trailer or the overall width of the trailer, including the wheels and fenders? And, do the fenders intrude into the interior of the trailer?

6' or 72" should be plenty wide. Mine is 78" which is really a bit wider than I would have liked, but it is what was available for a good price. As long as that dimension is what is between the wheel wells, you're fine. My space going into the garage is very tight, a couple of inches on either side and I've not had any problems. I would think 12' is on the long side, 10' is plenty for my RT, and depending on how the ramp is configured, 8 might work too.

[bushrat]

That is a very cool little trailer. Kinda minimal in some ways, but it keeps the weight way down. Whoever designed it was very clever.

Design credit goes to fellow Spyder owner Allan Irish, Belleville, ON, and constructor credit to Excel Welding & Fabrication. Allan was kind enough to let me buy the trailer when he moved up to a toy hauler.