I made a tire mistake

[waynerho]

I bought new Michelin T+H (205/60-15) for my RT. The dealer called and said they were afraid to mount it. They didn't think it would mount wide enough to seat securely.
I now either have to go back to the Kenda, or buy another tire and drive 140 miles round-trip to deliver the new tire.

One thing I and the mechanic both noticed about this tire, is the fact that the sidewall is VERY flexible. When you pick the tire up by the bead, it actually flexes out under the tire's weight. I've never seen a car tire do that before.

[papanorm]

I’d drive the 140 vs a Kenda.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I bought new Michelin T+H (205/60-15) for my RT. The dealer called and said they were afraid to mount it. They didn't think it would mount wide enough to seat securely.
I now either have to go back to the Kenda, or buy another tire and drive 140 miles round-trip to deliver the new tire.

One thing I and the mechanic both noticed about this tire, is the fact that the sidewall is VERY flexible. When you pick the tire up by the bead, it actually flexes out under the tire's weight. I've never seen a car tire do that before.
Wayne ....:yikes:.... sorry but your dealer is a STEALER ....He just wants you to buy the Kenda - that's where His profit margin is :banghead::banghead::banghead: ......... Lots of folks here have used the 205/60 size on GS-RS-ST bikes........ if you doubt me go on Tire Rack.com and choose any reg. tire in this size and go to the specs sheet ..... it will tell you what Rim/Wheel WIDTHS will work with that size ........ Mike :thumbup:.........Update - Your Wheel/Rim is 7 inches wide & because we are friends I just looked it up for you ..... According to the EXPERTS your Exact tire has A wheel/rim WIDTH range of 5.5 to 7.5 inches ....... this is not my OPINION it is the Experts

[PW2013STL]

I have been running a 205/60 x 15 Michelin for over two years on our RT and at 18# pressure. I have run curves at twice the posted speed without any issues. I am on my second Michelin tire after wearing out the first at 24,000 miles.
You will be fine with this size.

[trikermutha]

https://www.michelinman.com/upload/michelin_us/specifications/specs-defender-t-plus-h.pdf

[waynerho]

https://www.michelinman.com/upload/michelin_us/specifications/specs-defender-t-plus-h.pdf

Thanks for that link, and to you BlueKnight911. You are both correct. 7'' rim is supported by the tire.
I've called the dealer, but the tech is at lunch. I'm waiting to hear back.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have been running a 205/60 x 15 Michelin for over two years on our RT and at 18# pressure. I have run curves at twice the posted speed without any issues. I am on my second Michelin tire after wearing out the first at 24,000 miles.
You will be fine with this size.
24,000 :yikes:...... your roads must be very hard on tires ..... My Hydro-Edge has 36,600 and I think I can Safely get another 3,000 or so ...... Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:roflblack:
Thanks for that link, and to you BlueKnight911. You are both correct. 7'' rim is supported by the tire.
I've called the dealer, but the tech is at lunch. I'm waiting to hear back. Good luck .... a lot of Professionals ....don't like to told they are wrong :yikes::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack :......... Mike :thumbup:.............PS the " T & H " model Defender is the better of the two ....... :yes:.............Plus if they tell you a CAR tire won't match the Spyder RIM type .......well that's just BS ....they are both " J " style tire rims /wheels

[Bob Denman]

:D Gee Mike... You must ride like an old man: I can only get 12,000 miles our of my replacement tires... :joke::joke::joke::joke:

[trikermutha]

Thanks for that link, and to you BlueKnight911. You are both correct. 7'' rim is supported by the tire.
I've called the dealer, but the tech is at lunch. I'm waiting to hear back.


Any tire changing place can change the tire.

Just remove the hub first if yours can be removed.

If not any tire place that has motorcycle adapters can do this too.

I change mine at home manually. :yikes:

[Roadster Renovations]

This is what we put on in 2014. Still on there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R262GA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Any tire changing place can change the tire.

Just remove the hub first if yours can be removed.

If not any tire place that has motorcycle adapters can do this too.

I change mine at home manually. :yikes: These places can do it without removing the HUB ....... because if they couldn't ....then what do the folks do with the HUBS that don't come OFF ..... I think from 16 and up they are semi-permanently on the wheel ....... Mike

[trikermutha]

These places can do it without removing the HUB ....... because if they couldn't ....then what do the folks do with the HUBS that don't come OFF ..... I think from 16 and up they are semi-permanently on the wheel ....... Mike


Not all machines are the same and cannot accept with the wheel hub on. Some machines are setup to accept the wheel hubs. That's all I was saying :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Not all machines are the same and cannot accept with the wheel hub on. Some machines are setup to accept the wheel hubs. That's all I was saying :thumbup: And all I was saying was it can be done without HUB removal....... All the new wheels have non-removable HUBS ..... this is what has been said on the Forum :dontknow:.............Mike :thumbup:

[gerald37]

These places can do it without removing the HUB ....... because if they couldn't ....then what do the folks do with the HUBS that don't come OFF ..... I think from 16 and up they are semi-permanently on the wheel ....... Mike

I do my own tires. I have a Harbor Freight tire changer with the motorcycle attachment and had no problem changing my tire with the wheel that the hub is not removable. The only problem is to get it balanced. I have a Marc axle balancer that will work. Harbor Freight also has axle balancer pretty reasonable. Best is to purchase a Centralmatic balancer for the rear wheel from The Lamonster Garage and you won't have to worry about balancing it again.

[jcthorne]

And all I was saying was it can be done without HUB removal....... All the new wheels have non-removable HUBS ..... this is what has been said on the Forum :dontknow:.............Mike :thumbup:

The wheels fit on my Ranger tire machine just fine with the hub (and brake rotor for that matter) still on the wheel. No need to remove.

[PW2013STL]

24,000 :yikes:...... your roads must be very hard on tires ..... My Hydro-Edge has 36,600 and I think I can Safely get another 3,000 or so ...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike,

I was running that one at 26# and it wore the center down. I could have gotten more miles out of it, but decided to start fresh at 18#

Les

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike,

I was running that one at 26# and it wore the center down. I could have gotten more miles out of it, but decided to start fresh at 18#

Les
Well I guess I don't have to tell you how Happy this makes me :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: :yes::yes:.................. your Spyder will have more traction at all times ---plus the TIRE will more compliant, which means it will feel better ......... Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I do my own tires. I have a Harbor Freight tire changer with the motorcycle attachment and had no problem changing my tire with the wheel that the hub is not removable. The only problem is to get it balanced. I have a Marc axle balancer that will work. Harbor Freight also has axle balancer pretty reasonable. Best is to purchase a Centralmatic balancer for the rear wheel from The Lamonster Garage and you won't have to worry about balancing it again. On my first rear tire change I had it balanced ...my last 5, I didn't and had No issues .....Car tires are better constructed and have better quality control, so I don't think the rear tire needs balancing .....Mike :thumbup:

[DGoebel]

Mike,

I was running that one at 26# and it wore the center down. I could have gotten more miles out of it, but decided to start fresh at 18#

Les
Les, It looks like that smile in your new avatar and sig pic will start to hurt after a while...;) Welcome to the 18# club, BKMike convinced me last year...
Still waiting for all the Snirt to melt here in Fbo

[gerald37]

On my first rear tire change I had it balanced ...my last 5, I didn't and had No issues .....Car tires are better constructed and have better quality control, so I don't think the rear tire needs balancing .....Mike :thumbup:

You are probably right the rear with a car tire is much truer that the original tire. I did purchase a set of three Centralmatic balancers and do have the one on the rear. I had my Federal front tires balanced with a real good automotive balancer and have not put the balancers on the front. It sure rides real smooth.

[Warlock]

Just installed a Yokohama S drive on the back of my 08 Spyder. I have always run balancing beads, but decided to give it a try with no balance at all. To my surprise I couldn't tell any difference. Unless I get a tire that acts crazy no more balance on the rear tire. I am really liking this Yokohama S drive tire. Love the stiff side walls and was the easiest tire I have mounted.
David

[canamjhb]

Mike,

I was running that one at 26# and it wore the center down. I could have gotten more miles out of it, but decided to start fresh at 18#

Les

Eighteen #s is the magic number for me. I balked, stalled, didn't believe, procrastinated, and had many more excuses for not going below 20. But once I did, I will not go back.....

[tehrlich]

I run 26lbs. on my rear Yokohama S tire. I've put about 6000 miles on it, and have done countless heat signature checks during rides. I don't see a higher heat signature in the center much. Slightly more on the corners.

Ran it at 18lbs. because some here suggest it. Didn't like it at all. Heat at corners was definitely higher. I don't know what it will do with your tire. I've just measured mine.

I'm not making this comment to get into another piddly pissing contest. I just know that others run higher pressures, and have reached out to me privately in the past because it can just be too hostile on the forums. People get butt hurt when others have different preferences. And, 3,2,1.... a "butt science" comment to follow...

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I run 26lbs. on my rear Yokohama S tire. I've put about 6000 miles on it, and have done countless heat signature checks during rides. I don't see a higher heat signature in the center much. Slightly more on the corners.

Ran it at 18lbs. because some here suggest it. Didn't like it at all. Heat at corners was definitely higher. I don't know what it will do with your tire. I've just measured mine.

I'm not making this comment to get into another piddly pissing contest. I just know that others run higher pressures, and have reached out to me privately in the past because it can just be too hostile on the forums. People get butt hurt when others have different preferences. And, 3,2,1.... a "butt science" comment to follow... Here ...this isn't a Piddly comment .... It is a widely known FACT that Mufflers on Spyders are adversely effected by High PSI in tires ...... The mufflers you have for sale will sound much better on a Spyder with the correct PSI ...... I'm saying this to help you sell them ....... Your Welcome ....... Mike :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflb lack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

[Richardv]

I run 26lbs. on my rear Yokohama S tire. I've put about 6000 miles on it, and have done countless heat signature checks during rides. I don't see a higher heat signature in the center much. Slightly more on the corners.

Ran it at 18lbs. because some here suggest it. Didn't like it at all. Heat at corners was definitely higher. I don't know what it will do with your tire. I've just measured mine.

I'm not making this comment to get into another piddly pissing contest. I just know that others run higher pressures, and have reached out to me privately in the past because it can just be too hostile on the forums. People get butt hurt when others have different preferences. And, 3,2,1.... a "butt science" comment to follow...

HOW CAN A ROUND REAR END BE HOTTER IN THE CORNERS ??? HO, NOT THAT REAR END ..... NOW, I UNDERSTAND...!!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

[trikermutha]

:popcorn:

[tehrlich]

Here ...this isn't a Piddly comment .... It is a widely known FACT that Mufflers on Spyders are adversely effected by High PSI in tires ...... The mufflers you have for sale will sound much better on a Spyder with the correct PSI ...... I'm saying this to help you sell them ....... Your Welcome ....... Mike :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflb lack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
Go take a look. Lamont had to delete your silly childish comment on my exhaust for sale post on the 4 Sale threads.

I seriously can't believe your troll behavior on these threads. Making a comment like you did on my exhaust post, iS WHAT TROLLS DO on the internet. It's what they do to try to dominate a forum. It's what they do to try to push others out of a forum. I know because I was an Administrator for a much larger forum than this.

I like to have my tires at a higher psi and have gone through my due diligence to discover it.

[tehrlich]

HOW CAN A ROUND REAR END BE HOTTER IN THE CORNERS ??? HO, NOT THAT REAR END ..... NOW, I UNDERSTAND...!!! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
I don't understand what you even mean. I measured heat signatures across all tire surfaces AS RECOMMENDED by a tire expert ON THIS FORUM.

Our tires are not round. They have "corners."

[Cruising RT]

This is what we put on in 2014. Still on there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R262GA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 What made you decide to go to a bigger, different brand tire then what can on bike originally?

[Roadster Renovations]

What made you decide to go to a bigger, different brand tire then what can on bike originally?

It helped to correct the speedo error from the Kindra so that it is now very close to the GPS. There are threads buried here about that, but good luck finding them. I'll see if I can find you a link....

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

What made you decide to go to a bigger, different brand tire then what can on bike originally?
Two reasons most everyone here, who has done so, has changed to a bigger different rear tire. Most of us, but not all, have decided for ourselves that the OEM Kendas truly deserve the nickname "Crapenda"! Mileage life is poor ranging from about 7000 miles to 13000 miles depending on which iteration of rubber compound it is. The center tends to wear out much faster than the outer treads regardless of the tire pressure. The wear is what you typically see when you run a tire seriously over inflated.

The reason for a bigger rear tire is that there are extremely few car tires made the same size as the OEMs. The slightly larger diameter and narrower width tires are easily bought most anywhere, and fit the bike rims and fender space quite well. As mentioned above, they have the added benefit of reducing the speedometer/odometer error when compared to GPS readings.

The OEM Kenda front tires are OK for the most part. Mileage is normally around 22k to 25k miles. There are quite a few reports of unbalanced tires as well as some that have a tendency to pull to one side or the other. The majority of owners get satisfactory service from them, but regular car tires are cheaper, last longer, and handle better for the most part. Here again car tires aren't readily available in the OEM tire size so compromises are made.

[missouriboy]

What made you decide to go to a bigger, different brand tire then what can on bike originally?
IdahoMtnSpyder (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/member.php?14672-IdahoMtnSpyder)gave a good report above, and I'll add my example of the actual cost savings of using a car tire -- on the rear, anyway.

I get mine mounted by the dealer, who charges 2 hours labor to mount and balance the rear tire. A few simple punches in my calculator tells me my cost per mile on the General is 36.5% of the Kenda. So, only about ONE THIRD the cost. YMMV.

I know, cost isn't everything, but it's a point to consider when making your decision.