Sticking saddlebag

[cptjam]

Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!

[ARtraveler]

The cable adjuster was what it took on our 2014. :yes::yes:

[Chupaca]

We should have a tip of the day page here..:lecturef_smilie:after all Joe Public and Joe Meyer do find these cures for us...:clap::clap:

[bcer960]

I have the bike out of storage, and the saddle bags are sticking, but I can still get them open. Any chance someone has a pic of what the adjuster looks like? I have no issues taking the tupperware off, just not sure what to do after that.

Thanks
Ray

[UtahPete]

Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!
Very timely advice. Thanks Joe

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

About twice a season, or more if I'm in the mood, I clean my latches with
an old toothbrush and some solvent. Then finish up with a little squirt
of WD40. Those latches get pretty gummed up and will stick.
Chuck


Had one that just refused to work properly. Did the hip check trick, the slap and tickle, jiggle. Finally got it open. Lubed the catch. Adjusted it to hit properly. Still sticky. Went thru that a few times to find the sweet spot. Nope! Finally took all the Tupperware off the back, turned the cable adjuster one turn, and BOOM! Works perfectly!! If your bag lids stick, try that!!

[bcer960]

My right side bag is getting really bad. I am not sure where the cable adjustment is. any help would be really appreciated.

Ray

[cptjam]

We don’t have an RT anymore, but the next one I work on I’ll get a picture.

[bcer960]

We don’t have an RT anymore, but the next one I work on I’ll get a picture.

Thanks Joe

[Mad Mac]

Had a sticky Lt. bag. Pulled the trunk panel, turned the adjuster one full turn, and whaala, works as should. I think after a few pulls on the paddles when new, the cables have some initial stretch in them and they require the slack to be taken up. Mac:doorag:

[bcer960]

Had a sticky Lt. bag. Pulled the trunk panel, turned the adjuster one full turn, and whaala, works as should. I think after a few pulls on the paddles when new, the cables have some initial stretch in them and they require the slack to be taken up. Mac:doorag:

What I'm trying to find out is what that adjuster looks like, and exactly where it is. I had the back panel off this past weekend, but didn't see anything that looks like an adjuster. If it's behind the latch, I am not sure how to get in there.

Thanks
Ray

[Mad Mac]

What I'm trying to find out is what that adjuster looks like, and exactly where it is. I had the back panel off this past weekend, but didn't see anything that looks like an adjuster. If it's behind the latch, I am not sure how to get in there.

Thanks
Ray

You are in the right spot. Follow the cables from the paddle, down about 12 to14 inches(behind the tail lights) and you will find a barrel with a nut on it(might be zip-tied to the plastic molding). Loosen the nut and turn the barrel counter clockwise a small amount, then try to open the bag. Do this until you have most of the slack taken up. Leave about 1/8" of slack, just before the paddle starts to have resistance and starts to release the latch/bag. This should get the desired effect for you. Good luck! Mac:doorag:

[bcer960]

You are in the right spot. Follow the cables from the paddle, down about 12 to14 inches(behind the tail lights) and you will find a barrel with a nut on it(might be zip-tied to the plastic molding). Loosen the nut and turn the barrel counter clockwise a small amount, then try to open the bag. Do this until you have most of the slack taken up. Leave about 1/8" of slack, just before the paddle starts to have resistance and starts to release the latch/bag. This should get the desired effect for you. Good luck! Mac:doorag:


Thanks so much Mac. I will be doing this tonight when I get home from work.

Ray

[bcer960]

Thanks again Mac, the whole process took less than 10 mins, once I knew what and where i was looking for.

Ray

[Mad Mac]

Thanks again Mac, the whole process took less than 10 mins, once I knew what and where i was looking for.

Ray

You are very welcome Ray. Takes longer to remove the panel, than to adjust the cable(s). Glad it worked out. Mac:thumbup:

[cptjam]

Got an RT coming tomorrow. I’ll get pix. Joe

[UtahPete]

Got an RT coming tomorrow. I’ll get pix. Joe
That would be great, Joe.

[bcer960]

Got an RT coming tomorrow. I’ll get pix. Joe

Although I figured it out, having a pic to help future people will be helpful.

Ray

[UtahPete]

Although I figured it out, having a pic to help future people will be helpful. Ray
Do you have any pictures or explanations of how to access the adjusters, now that you've got it figured out?

[bcer960]

Do you have any pictures or explanations of how to access the adjusters, now that you've got it figured out?

Take off the colored back plastic, as others on this thread have stated. 8 screws, 4 in the top of the plastic at the truck, 2 on each side in the saddlebag. (the rear 2)
Next remove the three small screws under the handles for the trunk and saddlebags. This lowers the black plastic under the turn signals.
The adjusters were right below my turn signal assemblies. Very easy to get at. The look like a black plastic tube, about 1.25" long, with a cable going through them.
Un-tighten the lock nut ( I did this easily by hand ) and turn the barrel of the adjuster clockwise. I did one full turn to start and checked if the bags would open. On my bike, both needed more to work properly, but every bike will be different.
Tighten up the lock nut, and replace the lower black Tupperware with the three screws, and the colored plastic with all 8 of it's screws and you are done.

Hope this helps others.

Ray

[UtahPete]

Take off the colored back plastic, as others on this thread have stated. 8 screws, 4 in the top of the plastic at the truck, 2 on each side in the saddlebag. (the rear 2)
Next remove the three small screws under the handles for the trunk and saddlebags. This lowers the black plastic under the turn signals.

The adjusters were right below my turn signal assemblies. Very easy to get at. The look like a black plastic tube, about 1.25" long, with a cable going through them.

Un-tighten the lock nut ( I did this easily by hand ) and turn the barrel of the adjuster clockwise. I did one full turn to start and checked if the bags would open. On my bike, both needed more to work properly, but every bike will be different.

Tighten up the lock nut, and replace the lower black Tupperware with the three screws, and the colored plastic with all 8 of it's screws and you are done.

Hope this helps others. Ray

It does, thanks. I thought there was more involved than that. I've had those panels off before for various reasons and didn't realize that gave me the access to the adjusters that I needed.

Thanks again.

[bcer960]

It does, thanks. I thought there was more involved than that. I've had those panels off before for various reasons and didn't realize that gave me the access to the adjusters that I needed.

Thanks again.

I totally understand that. I didn't know what I was looking for until Mac got me to the correct place.

[safecracker]

I attached pictures to a post I wrote up back in 2012 or 2013. The adjusters are a lot like brake adjusters on bikes. Bruce

[cptjam]

My guy had to reschedule, so, no pix. Just as soon as I get one in, I am on it. If I had a nickel for every time I saw a spyder owner hip check a saddlebag, I would have a lot of nickels! If you happen to see us at a rally, and need this done, I will do it for you! Joe

[bcer960]

My guy had to reschedule, so, no pix. Just as soon as I get one in, I am on it. If I had a nickel for every time I saw a spyder owner hip check a saddlebag, I would have a lot of nickels! If you happen to see us at a rally, and need this done, I will do it for you! Joe

Thanks anyway Joe,

I'll take it apart again and take pics of the procedure.

Ray

[cptjam]

15 screws, remove back panel, swing down fender.
161304161305161306

[bcer960]

15 screws, remove back panel, swing down fender.
161304161305161306

Thanks Joe.

[UtahPete]

15 screws, remove back panel, swing down fender.
161304161305161306
Great photos. Very clear now. Thanks Joe.

[safecracker]

Great pics. Thank you.

[teninospyder]

Take off the colored back plastic, as others on this thread have stated. 8 screws, 4 in the top of the plastic at the truck, 2 on each side in the saddlebag. (the rear 2)
Next remove the three small screws under the handles for the trunk and saddlebags. This lowers the black plastic under the turn signals.
The adjusters were right below my turn signal assemblies. Very easy to get at. The look like a black plastic tube, about 1.25" long, with a cable going through them.
Un-tighten the lock nut ( I did this easily by hand ) and turn the barrel of the adjuster clockwise. I did one full turn to start and checked if the bags would open. On my bike, both needed more to work properly, but every bike will be different.
Tighten up the lock nut, and replace the lower black Tupperware with the three screws, and the colored plastic with all 8 of it's screws and you are done.

Hope this helps others.

Ray Decided today to find out what was wrong here and queried S.L. Glad I did as I found this one and others trying to help in the past. Bottom line is it worked :clap::yes::ohyea:etc, Easier than I expected too ! Great explanation ! :firstplace:

[bcer960]

Glad I could help.

Are you going to the show and shine in mt. vernon this sat?

[teninospyder]

Glad I could help.

Are you going to the show and shine in mt. vernon this sat?

No. We don't travel into northern WA. unless absolutely necessary. Too "scary" getting thru Olympia, JBLM, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, etc., etc. :banghead:
Going down into central Oregon looking for ghost/western town remnants in a few weeks though. Also hoping for "cool". dry, snake and scorpion free travel :ohyea:

Hey - do scorpions eat Spyders :shocked: :dontknow::dontknow:

Have fun in M.V.

[bcer960]

You too, have a great trip.

[wingit3611]

I have a 2013 RTL and didn't see the 3 small screws under the handles. Where are thes 15 screws for this drop down fender? This is all new to me but I will learn.

[SpyderAnn01]

I have a 2013 RTL and didn't see the 3 small screws under the handles. Where are thes 15 screws for this drop down fender? This is all new to me but I will learn.

There are 4 screws on each saddlebag, two on the side and two on the top. There are 4 across the rear saddlebag. After removing these 12 screws and undoing the gas struts on the side bags you remove the rear panel. The 3 screws hold the black panel that has the license plate on it, they are shorter than the other 12.