Which is the best Belt Tensioner for an F3 LTD?

[AY4B]

Got a new F3 Limited a few days ago and found it to have a lot of vibration at highway speeds. I was looking on here and found basically 2 different styles, one applies tension to the upper side and the other to the lower side.
now I'm confused, is the vibration coming from the upper side which is pulling or the lower side which has the slack?

[Crossbow]

Got a new F3 Limited a few days ago and found it to have a lot of vibration at highway speeds. I was looking on here and found basically 2 different styles, one applies tension to the upper side and the other to the lower side.
now I'm confused, is the vibration coming from the upper side which is pulling or the lower side which has the slack?


I put the the brp damper pulley which goes on the top , all vibration gone. Now saying that I am keeping a very close eye on pulley and bearing. I only have about 4000 Km on it so we will see.

crossbow

[Bob Denman]

:congrats:

Two Words for you: Doc Humphreys! :clap::firstplace::2thumbs::bowdown:

[AY4B]

:congrats:

Two Words for you: Doc Humphreys! :clap::firstplace::2thumbs::bowdown:
That is the one I’m leaning to but was wondering why there are 2 different kinds. The Smooth Spyder says that it wont work with LDT’s because they can not bolt to the air controlled shock.

[AY4B]

First i need to get the dealer to check to see if the tension is right. I did not have much vibration on my ST.

[Badco149]

I will be going on my second summer with the Smoothspyder tensioner. I have ZERO vibration and ZERO worries about the bearing wearing out. A little pricey but you get what you pay for. High quality. Very solid build.
IMHO :)

[Sarge707]

First i need to get the dealer to check to see if the tension is right. I did not have much vibration on my ST.
Right On- Get the tension Right Per the Dealer and you Should Not need a tensioner -

[Pirate looks at --]

Have to agree no vibration at all here! You have to have it set up right!

[papanorm]

I have about 16,000 miles on a Smooth Spyder for my ‘16 F3L. It cured the vibration issue and is built like a tank.

[AY4B]

I have about 16,000 miles on a Smooth Spyder for my ‘16 F3L. It cured the vibration issue and is built like a tank.
:thumbup:

[AY4B]

Its interesting that both Smooth Spyder and Roadster Renovations approach it from 2 different directions with the same results. :2thumbs:

[SpyderAnn01]

Right On- Get the tension Right Per the Dealer and you Should Not need a tensioner -

If that was truly the case I doubt that BRP would have gone through the expense of making a tensioner.

[AY4B]

If that was truly the case I doubt that BRP would have gone through the expense of making a tensioner.

I wouldn't even consider a BRP tensioner after watching this video giving a comparison.

https://youtu.be/e3PPg7vgfmA

[Roadster Renovations]

I wouldn't even consider a BRP tensioner after watching this video giving a comparison.

https://youtu.be/e3PPg7vgfmA


Wow, been a while since I did THAT video! At the time of this being made, the BRP damper had just come out and there had been no failures at that point. Kind of neat that what I said proved out. Anyway, I have had many improvements since this video and I will try to list them all by their order so that there is no confusion.
1. We changed the aluminum roller to nylon. On our initial testing on my Daytona we found that the aluminum scratched and transferred that lightly to the top of the belt. The nylon does not do that. As far as longevity, we replaced a roller the other day for a customer that had some noticeable wear. It could still have been used, but since I was servicing his unit we replaced it. He had 40,000 miles on it. The bearings were still perfect with no wear.
2. We increased the diameter of the pivot spring as a few of them were failing. This also happened to the BRP units also.
3. We determined that since there was very minimal adjustment on the BRP kits, we would be unable to offer just the arm. They were not getting into a good enough position. Our brackets are slotted and allow for more adjustment.
4. We began to find that the BRP units' pivot point was seizing up and locking up away from the belt. We added a outer seal to keep grit from getting into the pivot. We also added a grease fitting to make maintenance easier.
5. We included an adjustment block that allowed perfect alignment with the belt.
These changes have been in place since about May last year. We have not found a need to do any more changes. We still warranty everything for 1 year and the roller and bearings for 2 years.

https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/products

[AY4B]

Wow, been a while since I did THAT video! At the time of this being made, the BRP damper had just come out and there had been no failures at that point. Kind of neat that what I said proved out. Anyway, I have had many improvements since this video and I will try to list them all by their order so that there is no confusion.
1. We changed the aluminum roller to nylon. On our initial testing on my Daytona we found that the aluminum scratched and transferred that lightly to the top of the belt. The nylon does not do that. As far as longevity, we replaced a roller the other day for a customer that had some noticeable wear. It could still have been used, but since I was servicing his unit we replaced it. He had 40,000 miles on it. The bearings were still perfect with no wear.
2. We increased the diameter of the pivot spring as a few of them were failing. This also happened to the BRP units also.
3. We determined that since there was very minimal adjustment on the BRP kits, we would be unable to offer just the arm. They were not getting into a good enough position. Our brackets are slotted and allow for more adjustment.
4. We began to find that the BRP units' pivot point was seizing up and locking up away from the belt. We added a outer seal to keep grit from getting into the pivot. We also added a grease fitting to make maintenance easier.
5. We included an adjustment block that allowed perfect alignment with the belt.
These changes have been in place since about May last year. We have not found a need to do any more changes. We still warranty everything for 1 year and the roller and bearings for 2 years.

https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/products


Thanks Doc,
I could not find a more recent video that did a comparison as well as that one did. I did however see that you had made some improvements. I just ordered one, Thanks.

[Roadster Renovations]

Thanks Doc,
I could not find a more recent video that did a comparison as well as that one did. I did however see that you had made some improvements. I just ordered one, Thanks.

Saw that! It will go out tomorrow! Thank You!

[AY4B]

Saw that! It will go out tomorrow! Thank You!

One more thing to scratch off my long list. It was near the top after the ride I went on Sunday.

Probablly the next thing Ill get is the Baha Ron Swaybar, Then a Lamonster Drivers backrest.

[AY4B]

All in all, Im really loving my new F3 limited!!:firstplace:
https://scontent-dft4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/26229534_10210672662159998_8906511917439811694_n.j pg?oh=7479240c418cd77f368e4d8d4d4d417c&oe=5AFD2DF0

[Bfromla]

So you mentioned seeing oil spot on the ST is that all you needed for excuse for F3?:dontknow::roflblack::roflblack: :popcorn:

[AY4B]

So you mentioned seeing oil spot on the ST is that all you needed for excuse for F3?:dontknow::roflblack::roflblack: :popcorn:

That was an excellent excuse I would say!!:agree::cheers::cheers:

[Jambo Creek]

I have a 2017 F-3 LTD, now with 8,000 miles on it. It had the high speed vibration that drives new owners nuts, so about 4,000 miles ago I had the BRP tensioner installed. After watching the video of the aftermarket tensioner I now wonder about the BRP part’s durability. It fixed the vibration, but if it breaks, will BRP cover the repair and replacement under warranty? What if it trashes the $300 drive belt?

[PaladinLV]

You MAY need a LASER ALIGNMENT!
Unless they did it b4 u bought it.

AJ

Got a new F3 Limited a few days ago and found it to have a lot of vibration at highway speeds. I was looking on here and found basically 2 different styles, one applies tension to the upper side and the other to the lower side.
now I'm confused, is the vibration coming from the upper side which is pulling or the lower side which has the slack?

[AY4B]

You MAY need a LASER ALIGNMENT!
Unless they did it b4 u bought it.

AJ

Vibration at highway speeds has nothing to do with the alignment. That would be a whole nuther discussion.
I brought it up with the salesman and they still say that they already are laser aligned from the factory. I will try to at least get them to check it because they do Rolo laser alignments there. The bike handled very well on last Sundays ride in the twisties, but I could see a new sway bar would help it.
I did order a BR sway bar today along with a ton of other stuff. It will keep me busy for awhile putting it all together.
sway bar
vibration damper
bump skid
performance muffler bypass pipe
fog lights with rings
front fender LEDs
rear LED brake, turn, run,flash kit
Garmin 590

[AY4B]

I have a 2017 F-3 LTD, now with 8,000 miles on it. It had the high speed vibration that drives new owners nuts, so about 4,000 miles ago I had the BRP tensioner installed. After watching the video of the aftermarket tensioner I now wonder about the BRP part’s durability. It fixed the vibration, but if it breaks, will BRP cover the repair and replacement under warranty? What if it trashes the $300 drive belt? I would also be worried about the BRP one. I have seen threads on here of failures and it aint pretty. Doc said in the video I posted that they work fine for at least a couple of years.

Edit!! read Doc's response to this post on page 2. I would remove that tensioner ASAP!

[AY4B]

Its that way with the stock hiem links that hold the sway bar. Once you change one out and see the difference, its kind of scary. The Baha Ron links are very well made solid aluminum where the BRP ones look like a very flimsy plastic piece that look kind of cracker jack. I did my ST Limited

[Roadster Renovations]

I would also be worried about the BRP one. I have seen threads on here of failures and it aint pretty. Doc said in the video I posted that they work fine for at least a couple of years.

To clarify: When I said a year or two that ended up being very optimistic. It will depend on how many miles you ryde a year. What kind of ryding and at what speed. We are finding that interstate speeds are causing them to heat up and fail. It is a hit an miss thing. Some last longer and some shorter. We have removed them at events that had less than 400 miles that were failing. Best thing to do is carry something to tie the arm up out of the way if the roller fails. You also should periodically check the play in the roller. We caught one in Maggie Valley that had 4,000 miles on it and was getting ready to fail it had so much play. At the same event we had a ryder that had noticed the BRP unit was not working as well. When we pulled the panels the roller was completely gone and what was left on the arm had cut two deep grooves in the smooth part of the belt. Since the dealer had installed it when we contacted them they ask me to remove it so he could ryde it home to the dealer, where they warranted the belt.
The bottom line on whether they will replace the belt they will only do that if their idler has been installed by them.

157127 157128157129

Here are a couple of videos from Maggie Valley last year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1gJOhlR2Y


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXb7-bWdSe8

[SpyderNeil]

I put the the brp damper pulley which goes on the top , all vibration gone. Now saying that I am keeping a very close eye on pulley and bearing. I only have about 4000 Km on it so we will see.

crossbow

I have 23000 Km, all highway, on mine. I keep a close eye on it, which is Very easy, and it's like new.

Neil

[Sarge707]

Is this a Paid advertisement?

[AY4B]

Is this a Paid advertisement?
If it is I am way under paid, seeing that I bought a product with zero discount without even knowing if it is going to work.
roflmao

[AY4B]

I think It is supposed to get here by tomorrow and if I get it installed by my ryde on Saturday, I can give a full review.

[jroberts650]

To clarify: When I said a year or two that ended up being very optimistic. It will depend on how many miles you ryde a year. What kind of ryding and at what speed. We are finding that interstate speeds are causing them to heat up and fail. It is a hit an miss thing. Some last longer and some shorter. We have removed them at events that had less than 400 miles that were failing. Best thing to do is carry something to tie the arm up out of the way if the roller fails. You also should periodically check the play in the roller. We caught one in Maggie Valley that had 4,000 miles on it and was getting ready to fail it had so much play. At the same event we had a ryder that had noticed the BRP unit was not working as well. When we pulled the panels the roller was completely gone and what was left on the arm had cut two deep grooves in the smooth part of the belt. Since the dealer had installed it when we contacted them they ask me to remove it so he could ryde it home to the dealer, where they warranted the belt.
The bottom line on whether they will replace the belt they will only do that if their idler has been installed by them.

157127 157128157129

Here are a couple of videos from Maggie Valley last year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1gJOhlR2Y


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXb7-bWdSe8

I feel like the bracket that the RT owners install with the BRP idler is causing some of these premature failures. The farther out the idler is placed, the more tension and load is placed on the roller itself. Not to mention the added movement of the arm at the pivot point. I personally have the BRP idler without the bracket kit and it works fine. And it will not contact the tank even with the bottom bolt out of the rear shock. So not too sure why the bracket was recommended anyway, maybe it has to be used for the RR idler. The only thing I did add was the orings on the roller.

[Roadster Renovations]

I feel like the bracket that the RT owners install with the BRP idler is causing some of these premature failures. The farther out the idler is placed, the more tension and load is placed on the roller itself. Not to mention the added movement of the arm at the pivot point. I personally have the BRP idler without the bracket kit and it works fine. And it will not contact the tank even with the bottom bolt out of the rear shock. So not too sure why the bracket was recommended anyway, maybe it has to be used for the RR idler. The only thing I did add was the orings on the roller.

2 of the ones shown were F3's with no extended bracket, so doubtful. I think it's a quality control thing. That is why it is a hit and miss thing. Other than a few spring failures, we have yet to have a roller bearing fail. And quite a few RT's that had the bracket kit decided to upgrade with our kit with the shorter arm rather than chuck the adapter bracket and buy the RT kit.

[jroberts650]

2 of the ones shown were F3's with no extended bracket, so doubtful. I think it's a quality control thing. That is why it is a hit and miss thing. Other than a few spring failures, we have yet to have a roller bearing fail. And quite a few RT's that had the bracket kit decided to upgrade with our kit with the shorter arm rather than chuck the adapter bracket and buy the RT kit.

You stated "doubtful" but have you ever tested to see if any additional stress was caused by the bracket kit? Anyone knows that if you extend something it will have more stress in the middle or pivot point. That's pure physics. And the issues with the roller, it a simple fix...... take the roller off and add some lithium grease once or twice a year.

[Roadster Renovations]

You stated "doubtful" but have you ever tested to see if any additional stress was caused by the bracket kit? Anyone knows that if you extend something it will have more stress in the middle or pivot point. That's pure physics. And the issues with the roller, it a simple fix...... take the roller off and add some lithium grease once or twice a year.

When we designed the adapter we could have used a thinner bar stock, but we didn't. We intentionally overbuilt both the adapter bar and the damper bracket to stop any vibration or any flex. The bridge shim that we developed also causes a larger contact area to the frame to make for a firmer fit.
And as far as taking the roller off and adding grease once or twice a year, the BRP bearing is a sealed unit and not greaseable. If you are talking about the bolt and the inner race of the bearing, that is fixed and does not move so greasing it wouldn't do any good. The failure is in the bearing itself. It heats up and melts the plastic on the roller and it falls off leaving the inner part of the bearing still on the arm to dig into the belt and ruin it
There is no fixing that without redesigning it.

[AY4B]

I just measured my belt tension with my cricket 2 devise and it read 200 PSI. I have no Idea if that is where its supposed to be. I called the dealer and they told me its supposed to be 750 newtons which does not compute on a conversion app.

[Roadster Renovations]

I just measured my belt tension with my cricket 2 devise and it read 200 PSI. I have no Idea if that is where its supposed to be. I called the dealer and they told me its supposed to be 750 newtons which does not compute on a conversion app.

We run ours at about 180, so yours is pretty close. We use two Krickets; the lower range black/white one for in the air checks and the green/white one for on the ground. I set it with it up in the air (90 psi) and then check it on the ground (180psi).
Adjust belt/tension is not an easy task. It takes some practice. Where is your belt ryding on the rear flange? Should be about a credit cards' width (2-5 mm).

[AY4B]

We run ours at about 180, so yours is pretty close. We use two Krickets; the lower range black/white one for in the air checks and the green/white one for on the ground. I set it with it up in the air (90 psi) and then check it on the ground (180psi).
Adjust belt/tension is not an easy task. It takes some practice. Where is your belt ryding on the rear flange? Should be about a credit cards' width (2-5 mm).

I checked it in neutral on the ground and in the air on the top of the belt in the middle. both times it read 200 PSI.
The belt is right up on the sprocket. no space at all. The dealer just said that it will move and very until its broken in. Sounds like BS to me.

[AY4B]

I think that I probably need to adjust it myself. It may be too tight. I was reading another thread and Blueknight911 said he ran his at 170. I also need to back it off the sprocket like you say. What PSI do I need to tighten the wheel bolts after Im done?

[Roadster Renovations]

I think that I probably need to adjust it myself. It may be too tight. I was reading another thread and Blueknight911 said he ran his at 170. I also need to back it off the sprocket like you say. What PSI do I need to tighten the wheel bolts after Im done?

160 foot lbs for 2013 and up. Might drill down into this search about torquing:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7243319


Here is one on adjusting the belt:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7243327

[AY4B]

160 foot lbs for 2013 and up. Might drill down into this search about torquing:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7243319


Here is one on adjusting the belt:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7243327
Thanks that link does not work but the 160 was all I needed. Sounds like the same thing as my 2014 ST.