30 psi in frt tires

[dsteve931]

I put 30 psi in frt tires handles better and steers easier any one else tried this?

[trikermutha]

I went as high as 23 PSI and thought that was to much.

I felt better at 19 psi for the Spyder but I am running Federal Formoza on mine.

Never liked the stock tires.

Good luck on this topic. :shocked:

[Warlock]

I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
David

[tehrlich]

Oh, boy.... here we go. I can't believe that there is such hard feelings in this topic!

I run my front Yokohamas at 26psi's on my RT. Love the handling. Some will claim that 14psi is the only safe pressure.

[tehrlich]

I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
David

I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......

[Warlock]

I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......

I'm running a 08 GS and it is a lot lighter than yours. Like yourself I'm not the average rider. I tend to run the limits. I use to run right with the sport bikes on deals gap on my Honda Valkyrie. Not all of them, but a lot of them.
David

[Chupaca]

I run 17lbs and have found that to be the best for my style (agressive as the nanny :roflblack:) but rain or not traction was not the issue with the higher pressures what I found was hopping in the curves. The best pressure is the one you feel most comfortable with. Car tires with higher ply's can react differently and the higher the pressure the rougher on the driver as you loose some suspension with less flex in the tire. In the end the tire has a max pressure rating stay under that ...

[ARtraveler]

Anyone tried 50 psi yet? :roflblack::roflblack:

[ThreeWheels]

You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
Until you go out on the highway.
At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.

[Little Blue]

All Good Tips. The Bottom Line is 'Your Choice'. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: Little Blue

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
Until you go out on the highway.
At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.
What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

[blacklightning]

I find that 20 psi works best for me on my RSS, RT, and F3T when riding aggressive. I sometimes go to 18 when just cruising.
I have tried 32 psi in my RSS and found that there was a little too much bounce when the road got a little rough.
Just try what works best for you and take the others advice with a grain of salt.

[Road-Kill]

What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.

[nslowmotion]

Anyone tried 50 psi yet? :roflblack::roflblack:


i find that running 90 to 125 psi works the best in mine:yes:

[jaherbst]

Anyone tried 50 psi yet? :roflblack::roflblack:

How about 75 psi or even a 100 psi. They float better when crossing rivers with the higher PSI's right? :joke:

​Jack

[missouriboy]

...My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front...My rear Kenda did 17K (below) but my front Kendas still have at least 25% tread-life remaining at over 45,000 miles! I run the recommended 18-22psi in them.

But then I don't have very much hard turning to do; mostly just flat & straight here in the Rio Grande Valley.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort. Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike :thumbup:

[Road-Kill]

Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike :thumbup:

Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.

[2dogs]

Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.

BK, what's your answer or are you still typing? Be nice now. :roflblack::roflblack:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike. Why have you decided " Attacking me personally " proves or bolsters your theories on this subject ???? .... I'm not a " know-it-all " and I resent the inference..... the views I express on tires is based on my Schooling and training in the subject. I have testified in Court about what tires can and can't do based on my knowledge. It's known as " Expert witness testimony " , NOT - " know-it-all testimony ". There are people who THINK they know what they are talking about .....and a couple here who actually KNOW what they are talking about............ Everyone has the right to believe what they want, the problem arises ( for me ) is when they make statements that are Scientifically false, and that information could potentially hurt people ..... I will never argue with anyone who states that red ( or blue - white - yellow etc. ) is the best / nicest color, because it doesn't matter. But tire " PSI " does...... My message is about safety ..... frankly I don't know what your message is ............ Mike :thumbup:

[trikermutha]

I always loved a good tire thread. :popcorn:

[Road-Kill]

I always loved a good tire thread. :popcorn:

lol....true.
The back-n-forth argument gets too funny at times.

[Road-Kill]

Why have you decided " Attacking me personally " proves or bolsters your theories on this subject ???? .... I'm not a " know-it-all " and I resent the inference..... the views I express on tires is based on my Schooling and training in the subject. I have testified in Court about what tires can and can't do based on my knowledge. It's known as " Expert witness testimony " , NOT - " know-it-all testimony ". There are people who THINK they know what they are talking about .....and a couple here who actually KNOW what they are talking about............ Everyone has the right to believe what they want, the problem arises ( for me ) is when they make statements that are Scientifically false, and that information could potentially hurt people ..... I will never argue with anyone who states that red ( or blue - white - yellow etc. ) is the best / nicest color, because it doesn't matter. But tire " PSI " does...... My message is about safety ..... frankly I don't know what your message is ............ Mike :thumbup:

Hey Mike. I am also as you stated...."an expert witness".
I (we) could not testify that we know better then a tire manufacturer, you would be laughed out of a courtroom if you did.
That testimony would only come from a tire manufacturer.
My statement, albeit harsh, was to demonstrate you are not an expert in that field.
PSI means little if the tread is too hard for the weight of the vehicle.
Adding another slight problem, the Spyder is 2000-3000 lighter then a car AND missing a tire.
That missing tire decreases traction and adding a harder tread is adding greatly to traction loss.

I have 20,000+ miles on my Spyder with the same front tires still going strong.
I am not going to mess with what BRP mandates because some random digits on my screen says BRP is wrong.
I am not going to let anyone I know put the wrong tires on anything that might cause them harm without my 2cents mentioned.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey Mike. I am also as you stated...."an expert witness".
I (we) could not testify that we know better then a tire manufacturer, you would be laughed out of a courtroom if you did.
That testimony would only come from a tire manufacturer.
My statement, albeit harsh, was to demonstrate you are not an expert in that field.
PSI means little if the tread is too hard for the weight of the vehicle.
Adding another slight problem, the Spyder is 2000-3000 lighter then a car AND missing a tire.
That missing tire decreases traction and adding a harder tread is adding greatly to traction loss.

I have 20,000+ miles on my Spyder with the same front tires still going strong.
I am not going to mess with what BRP mandates because some random digits on my screen says BRP is wrong.
I am not going to let anyone I know put the wrong tires on anything that might cause them harm without my 2cents mentioned.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... I have a feeling that you had a distant relative who was at " Kitty Hawk " and EXPERTLY remarked ............. that thing will never fly :lecturef_smilie:........:roflblack::roflblack::ro flblack: ..... and PS the world isn't Flat ......and PPS " Butt " theory is as valid as Bar Stool - BS ....... also ....Happy New Year , Mike :thumbup:

[hypurone]

I went as high as 23 PSI and thought that was to much.

I felt better at 19 psi for the Spyder but I am running Federal Formoza on mine.

Never liked the stock tires.

Good luck on this topic. :shocked:

I was running at 19 on my AZ01's and it handled great but I have some injuries that beg to have lighter/less effort steering and I have moved up to 22psi cold. It still handles great but is soooo much easier to bend into the corners. I do feel it being a little more nervous at warp speed on a rough road but until I heal all the way (Please God, make this day come sooner!) the higher pressure is where it is at for me.

[nslowmotion]

How about 75 psi or even a 100 psi. They float better when crossing rivers with the higher PSI's right? :joke:

​Jack


i like the way you think Jack

[tehrlich]

Second generation Smart Cars weigh a minimum of 1653lbs. You can see this here. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Fortwo)

They have a range of tire sizes, but their stock wheels and tires are similar to our fronts. Their recommended psi settings are 29 for the front and 36 for the rears. Here (https://www.puretyre.co.uk/tyre-information/tyre-pressures/smart-car-tyre-pressures/smart-fortwo-451-tyre-pressure-placard/).

[asp125]

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this earlier. I used to autocross and crew for a road race team. The way we dialed in pressures was by measuring tire temperature with a pyrometer.

You can either buy a probe type pyrometer, or if you have an instant read meat thermometer with a probe, that will also work. There are simple infrared surface thermometers that you can get, but the probe ones IMO work best. Surface temps lose heat too quickly to get a good read. Probes read the temperature inside the tread block, which are more stable without surface cooling playing a factor. Some electrical multimeters come with a temperature probe, too.

Go out on a warm day, and make a good loop with turns or multiple figure eights (equal left & right turns) to warm up the tires. If they feel warm to your bare hand, then there is enough heat to read. Do a few more figure 8's and immediately stop and get some temp readings.

Now, you each may have personal preferences about what pressure works best, and yes overinflating it so that the contact patch gets smaller will increase steering response. But, the optimum grip happens with the full width of the tread on the ground. The way to get that is measuring the tread temperature on the inside, middle, and outside of the tread. You're looking for the tire pressure that results in even temperatures across the tread. Realistically, temps change from the time you make the first reading until you make the last. A spread of 10 degrees C is acceptable. Also, if you make equal numbers of right and left turns, the readings of each tire should be similar. If you make left turns only, the right front is loaded harder and should read higher than the left front tire.

Pressure too high, and the middle temperature reading is the highest. Too low, and the outer edge temperatures are higher than the middle. Assuming you can't adjust camber or toe, playing with tire pressure and tread temperatures might help you dial in your optimum settings.

[tehrlich]

156676


156677

[tehrlich]

I don't know why I hadn't thought of this earlier. I used to autocross and crew for a road race team. The way we dialed in pressures was by measuring tire temperature with a pyrometer.

You can either buy a probe type pyrometer, or if you have an instant read meat thermometer with a probe, that will also work. There are simple infrared surface thermometers that you can get, but the probe ones IMO work best. Surface temps lose heat too quickly to get a good read. Probes read the temperature inside the tread block, which are more stable without surface cooling playing a factor. Some electrical multimeters come with a temperature probe, too.

Go out on a warm day, and make a good loop with turns or multiple figure eights (equal left & right turns) to warm up the tires. If they feel warm to your bare hand, then there is enough heat to read. Do a few more figure 8's and immediately stop and get some temp readings.

Now, you each may have personal preferences about what pressure works best, and yes overinflating it so that the contact patch gets smaller will increase steering response. But, the optimum grip happens with the full width of the tread on the ground. The way to get that is measuring the tread temperature on the inside, middle, and outside of the tread. You're looking for the tire pressure that results in even temperatures across the tread. Realistically, temps change from the time you make the first reading until you make the last. A spread of 10 degrees C is acceptable. Also, if you make equal numbers of right and left turns, the readings of each tire should be similar. If you make left turns only, the right front is loaded harder and should read higher than the left front tire.

Pressure too high, and the middle temperature reading is the highest. Too low, and the outer edge temperatures are higher than the middle. Assuming you can't adjust camber or toe, playing with tire pressure and tread temperatures might help you dial in your optimum settings.

I did this very thing recently, and on multiple rides. Measured, measured, measured just as some experts said to do right here on these forums. They claimed that the heat signatures would be, as you said, high in the center at my "very unsafe" high pressures of my Yokohamas. So, I went out and measured by what they suggested. I didn't measure it that way.

I was measuring with the fronts at 26psi and the back at 30psi. The heat measurements were pretty consistent across the surface and corners. The rear tire heats up much more than the fronts.

[Fat Baxter]

I have a 2014 RT-S, and I apparently had a set of the crappy Kendas all around. My rear lasted about 6500 miles; I replaced it with a General Altimax.

At 12,000 miles, I got tired of the twitchy front tires (still had lots of tread left) and replaced them with Kumho Solus KH16s. The difference in handling was DRAMATIC! The front end was vastly more stable and felt more planted in the curves. No more jiggling nervously down the road. Kenda had a run of bad front tires back then (separating belts; out-of-round; etc). I figured that's what my problem was. That's one reason Kendas have such a bad rep in this forum.

Yes, I hear that the current generation of Kendas is much improved. But my General will still last longer than the new Kenda rear tires, by perhaps double the mileage. How frequently do you want to pay the dealer $$$ to mount a new rear tire?

And FWIW, I run 18 psi in the front and 24 in the rear.

[asp125]

I run 18/28 on Kendas per the recommendations on this forum, but I really should put my money where my mouth is and get some tire temp readings to confirm.

[tehrlich]

I think BRP has the crappy Kendas on them because a Spyder is technically a "motorcycle." Motorcycles cannot have "automobile" tires on them. Basically a CYA.

The Kendas are functional. They roll, and propel forward with left and right turning. They also are able to stop.


Car tires do all of that and turn our Spyders into thoroughbreds.

[asp125]

...The heat measurements were pretty consistent across the surface and corners. The rear tire heats up much more than the fronts.

I would assume the rear tire to heat up more than the fronts. The rear is loaded more heavily with rider and passenger, and does the main job of pushing the Spyder. Also the fronts are out in the breeze while the rear is "hidden" behind the mass of the Spyder and receives the engine / exhaust header heat.

[Fat Baxter]

I think BRP has the crappy Kendas on them because a Spyder is technically a "motorcycle." Motorcycles cannot have "automobile" tires on them. Basically a CYA........

The story I read somewhere was that, when the Spyder was in development, BRP released a request to tire manufacturers to provide OEM tires. The only response they got back was from Kenda, known more for making tires for utility vehicles (off-road quads; forklifts; wheelbarrows; small trailers). I think, at the time, they also had some experience making low-end tires for the western Pacific region (itty bitty cars).

Everyone else likely concluded this was a niche market requiring non-standard sizes, hence not worth the investment. So BRP was stuck with Kenda. If BRP had designed the Spyder to use some slightly larger tires, more in line with what the larger manufacturers already produced, we might not have this problem.

[tehrlich]

The story I read somewhere was that, when the Spyder was in development, BRP released a request to tire manufacturers to provide OEM tires. The only response they got back was from Kenda, known more for making tires for utility vehicles (off-road quads; forklifts; wheelbarrows; small trailers). I think, at the time, they also had some experience making low-end tires for the western Pacific region (itty bitty cars).

Everyone else likely concluded this was a niche market requiring non-standard sizes, hence not worth the investment. So BRP was stuck with Kenda. If BRP had designed the Spyder to use some slightly larger tires, more in line with what the larger manufacturers already produced, we might not have this problem.
That would make sense for the initial start of the Spyder line, but there are many tires in our sizes. Why has BRP not worked new contracts with real tire manufacturers by now? Heck, the big "rumor" of the 10th anniversary announcement was a new tire option. But, alas, it was a Trans Am paint job. (Which I like! :) )

[trikermutha]

I was running at 19 on my AZ01's and it handled great but I have some injuries that beg to have lighter/less effort steering and I have moved up to 22psi cold. It still handles great but is soooo much easier to bend into the corners. I do feel it being a little more nervous at warp speed on a rough road but until I heal all the way (Please God, make this day come sooner!) the higher pressure is where it is at for me.


I hear you on easier but found it a bit squirrely and hasher ride at 22. Heal safe :thumbup:

[Easy Rider]

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... I have a feeling that you had a distant relative who was at " Kitty Hawk " and EXPERTLY remarked ............. that thing will never fly :lecturef_smilie:........:roflblack::roflblack::ro flblack: ..... and PS the world isn't Flat ......and PPS " Butt " theory is as valid as Bar Stool - BS ....... also ....Happy New Year , Mike :thumbup:

For me, this tells the whole story.
When you have no more facts or solid opinions to add to the discussion, you revert to insults and diversions.
It really accomplishes nothing useful and makes you look really bad.
AND.....puts everything you said earlier in the thread into question, even if it was the truth.

[Mazo EMS2]

When we first got our first Spyder, I tried the front tires at about 30 psi for a while. I found it to "bounce" and be a bit twitchy and harsh at hwy speeds. It makes sense though....the harder the tire, the more bounce and less road contact. So.....I slowly decreased pressure and have found that 21 psi works well for us. We ride two up most of the time. As for the rear tire, I've kept it at 28 psi the whole time. It's all about what works for YOU.

[tehrlich]

When we first got our first Spyder, I tried the front tires at about 30 psi for a while. I found it to "bounce" and be a bit twitchy and harsh at hwy speeds. It makes sense though....the harder the tire, the more bounce and less road contact. So.....I slowly decreased pressure and have found that 21 psi works well for us. We ride two up most of the time. As for the rear tire, I've kept it at 28 psi the whole time. It's all about what works for YOU.
no, no, no.. You don't get it.

There's no scientific way you could have a valid opinion because you've not testified for tens of dollars in court cases. The fact that you've ridden motorcycles, or driven cars, or ridden bicycles for years does not mean you understand any dynamics of an inflated rubber tube rolling on the ground. The "butt feel" you are experiencing is not real. It is unreliable. It tells you nothing, absolutely nothing. Do not even think for a second that your observations matter either. They can't be because you must take a couple of on-the-job classes for it.

The only acceptable tire pressure is what others ridicule you into accepting. Do it their way, or you will be mocked on Spyderlovers with emoji abuse.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

no, no, no.. You don't get it.

There's no scientific way you could have a valid opinion because you've not testified for tens of dollars in court cases. The fact that you've ridden motorcycles, or driven cars, or ridden bicycles for years does not mean you understand any dynamics of an inflated rubber tube rolling on the ground. The "butt feel" you are experiencing is not real. It is unreliable. It tells you nothing, absolutely nothing. Do not even think for a second that your observations matter either. They can't be because you must take a couple of on-the-job classes for it.

The only acceptable tire pressure is what others ridicule you into accepting. Do it their way, or you will be mocked on Spyderlovers with emoji abuse.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... I'm going to request the administrator to start a new Topic category just for YOU .... It could be titled the STUPID - NASTY - IRRELEVANT - IDIOTIC comments etc. - category ..... I'm sure it will give the members here tons of stuff to laugh about during the ( for most ) Off -season :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:...........annnnnnnnnd a Happy New Year ....... Mike :thumbup:

[tehrlich]

LOL. You act like you're 8 years old. How did that attitude work on the witness stand of those big cases?

I'll still race you at your wet socks 14psi. I'll bet you didn't have them at 14psi at your BIG WIN of that sanctioned drag race. LOL.

[Docster]

Oh, boy.... here we go. I can't believe that there is such hard feelings in this topic!

I run my front Yokohamas at 26psi's on my RT. Love the handling. Some will claim that 14psi is the only safe pressure.

Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.

[asp125]

Internet tire pressures is FAKE news! Now, how 'bout what oil works best? :D

[tehrlich]

Internet tire pressures is FAKE news! Now, how 'bout what oil works best? :D
Let's double down:

What's the best oil pressure??

[jcthorne]

Let's double down:

What's the best oil pressure??


That one is easy. Zero as it leads to the most work for mechanics......:-):D

[ARtraveler]

Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.

I hate to say it, but good luck on that suggestion. Been watching the various threads since Feb 2010. No change noted. :yes:

[ThreeWheels]

Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.

I appreciate your suggestion, and to some extent I share your frustration, but I have to be honest, the search function is pretty lame. You get presented with either NO relevant information, or TOO MUCH relevant information. Here's a screen shot of a quick search on Tire Pressure.
"Merlins Blood" ? Proper Oil Level Procedure ? 2016 F3T for sale ?
Really ??
Sometimes it's easier to just ask the question again.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. I'm sure someone on this forum will be delighted to tell me if I am.


156693

[hypurone]

Heal safe :thumbup:

Thanks! :thumbup:

[Road-Kill]

The only way to see the difference in tires is to mount them and do cornering and braking tests.
This needs to be done in an honest and scientific way.
It needs data recording equipment mounted on the vehicle, video footage and measurements made on the road.
This would put this discussion to rest but since this is never going to happen I'm sticking with what BRP recommends.
They have done the homework and I'm not seeing anything like that on this website or thread.
I can not find a single car tire out there that is geared for a vehicle weighing roughly 1000lbs.
Its all fun-n-games till you slam on the brakes or corner hard and loose traction.

I'll swap my trusted Kenda tires when someone shows me the hard data. nojoke

[Easy Rider]

LOL. You act like you're 8 years old.

You give him too much credit.
Responding to his posts just drags you into the mud too.

[Road-Kill]

Second generation Smart Cars weigh a minimum of 1653lbs. You can see this here. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Fortwo)

They have a range of tire sizes, but their stock wheels and tires are similar to our fronts. Their recommended psi settings are 29 for the front and 36 for the rears. Here (https://www.puretyre.co.uk/tyre-information/tyre-pressures/smart-car-tyre-pressures/smart-fortwo-451-tyre-pressure-placard/).

Close but still no cigar.
And you must remember you are missing a wheel which reduces traction even more.
additionally...they figure the weight as the "average" of additional passengers and cargo.
even those little Smart cars figure an average of passenger and cargo being 600-800lbs, something not close to a Spyder.

Show me a weight rating for a tire that not only shows close to a 1000lb car but missing a wheel, like a Spyder.

The Smart car is almost 1700lbs and has an extra tire, the math?
The Spyder is 33% lighter?
The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?

[Easy Rider]

Close but still no cigar.



So......53 posts into the thread and I forget what your recommendation is for tires ?
The stock Kendra's ??

And what does the Slingshot use for tires ?
Yes, I understand that it is not IDENTICAL but close is often good enough........despite protestations to the contrary. ;)

[Mazo EMS2]

Happy new year!!! Now, can we stop beating this dead horse and move on?:chat::bdh: Strop worrying about what everyone else does and ride your ride.

[tehrlich]

Close but still no cigar.
And you must remember you are missing a wheel which reduces traction even more.
additionally...they figure the weight as the "average" of additional passengers and cargo.
even those little Smart cars figure an average of passenger and cargo being 600-800lbs, something not close to a Spyder.

Show me a weight rating for a tire that not only shows close to a 1000lb car but missing a wheel, like a Spyder.

The Smart car is almost 1700lbs and has an extra tire, the math?
The Spyder is 33% lighter?
The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?

I only put the Smart Car information up because it is the only thing close to what we are running.

But a nitpick in your math... our rear tire is bigger than the Smart Car tires. I'll let you work that through your HP calculator, but until you actually ride with car tires, you REALLY don't know what you are missing. Why do you think so many on this forum replace them?

Not science, but do a search on this popular forum. Look for anecdotal evidence of your claims. Look for actual claims of:

"holy s.....t.... my car tires are making me spin out on wet roads!" See what you find for us and report.

[Road-Kill]

I only put the Smart Car information up because it is the only thing close to what we are running.

But a nitpick in your math... our rear tire is bigger than the Smart Car tires. I'll let you work that through your HP calculator, but until you actually ride with car tires, you REALLY don't know what you are missing. Why do you think so many on this forum replace them?

Not science, but do a search on this popular forum. Look for anecdotal evidence of your claims. Look for actual claims of:

"holy s.....t.... my car tires are making me spin out on wet roads!" See what you find for us and report.

I was simply asking for the hard data, the math or any actual testing done.
I see none of that.
I see thread after thread of what people "think" is best.

[Warlock]

It's funny how a single thread can bring out the bad in all. No matter what you type, post stats,etc it will not change a persons mind. That is why I stated I like 17 lbs for me. Might not be what you like so run what you feel is right for you. So when people ask a question that doesn't know it's best to tell them to try different pressures until the find their sweat spot. JMO and I'm sticking to it
Happy New Year, David:bdh:

[BajaRon]

Here is a poor boy's method of looking at tire pressures.

Get your tires up to operating temperature (hard to do this time of year in many locations so some of us may need to wait until summer).

Wet an area on your driveway. A foot or 2 is plenty. You don't want standing water. Just enough to be good and wet.

Drive over the wet spot and you will see your tire footprint in the dry area on the other side. Kind of like the old carbon copiers, if you can remember back that far! :rolleyes:

If you are running too high a pressure the outer edge of the tread pattern will be light or missing. You should see an equal and complete tread pattern. This does not work as well for low tire pressure as it has to be extremely low for the pattern to show a problem.

This will not work on the rear tire if you are using Kenda's because of their weak tread area. Kenda's balloon out at speed, so whatever results you get at slow speeds will not translate to the real world. It will work fine if you are running a car tire because the tread area on a car tire is strong enough to resist ballooning at speed.

The front Kenda tires also have a weak tread area. But because of the narrow tread span the effects of ballooning are greatly reduced on the front tires. This is one reason the fronts last so much longer than the rear.

[waynerho]

How about 75 psi or even a 100 psi. They float better when crossing rivers with the higher PSI's right? :joke:

​Jack

Sorry, but with the added weight of all of that tire pressure, my mileage went to hell fast. Just too heavy!

I'll stick with 4PSI, thank you.

[missouriboy]

<snip>

The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?I'm no mathematician but think that last statement is not mathematically correct. Say a Spyder did have two rear tires, at the same total overall weight. The rear-end footprint would be doubled, but the downward PSI would be halved... an exact wash.

The total coefficient of friction (traction) would probably change some, but methinks nowhere near 25% (50% on rear axle...). :bowdown:

[Bob Denman]

I run 85 psi in the front tires... nojoke











...of my Motorhome! :D

[BajaRon]

I'm no mathematician but think that last statement is not mathematically correct. Say a Spyder did have two rear tires, at the same total overall weight. The rear-end footprint would be doubled, but the downward PSI would be halved... an exact wash.

The total coefficient of friction (traction) would probably change some, but methinks nowhere near 25% (50% on rear axle...). :bowdown:

I have not done the math but I strongly suspect that you are correct. There are a number of factors at work here.

First, by going to 1 rear wheel you lose the stability that you gain with 2 wheels spread apart.

Second, you are replacing 2 narrow tires with 1 wide tire. While the total footprint may be a bit less with 1 wide tire. The overall traction coefficient may not be all that different.

Third, as mentioned. The pounds per square inch down-force will go down as the footprint area goes up which also affects actual traction.

I don't think it is as simple as 4 minus 1 = a 25% loss. I suspect that it is a much smaller percentage on our Spyders.

Interestingly enough. A stronger sway bar actually transfers some of the excessive down-force on the front, outside tire, to the rear wheel in a turn. This increases not only the traction at the front of the Spyder. But also increases the traction at the rear at the same time. Only in a turn however, as this is the only time a sway bar has effect on handling.

There are, of course, disadvantages to having only 1 rear wheel. But there are also a great number of advantages. everything is a trade-off.

[Road-Kill]

An easy method would be to mount a desired tire on your Spyder and with the parking brake "on" pull your Spyder with gauge attached.
Do this for several different brands and let us know which tires require more pull to break traction. nojoke

If we could come up with a known gauge that everyone could obtain we could ask everyone to do this test.

Since there are many who already have different tires mounted we could acquire this info and close this discussion to facts.

[Easy Rider]

I see thread after thread of what people "think" is best.

That's all that the people here have access to.

If the data you want even exists, it likely is not available to the general public........because some company paid for it and all of the results may not reflect favorably on the people paying to do the study.

[Easy Rider]

If we could come up with ...................

What's this "WE" stuff ??
If it concerns YOU that much, then go for it.
Let us know what you find out. :ohyea:

[Deanna777]

I run 19PSI in the front tires( Continental Contiprocontact's) on my 2014RTS-SE6.

I have not had any problems.

Deanna

[fjray]

This horse has been dead for some time now. It doesn't matter if your an educated pro or a seat of the pants type it doesn't make anybody's opinion better or worse than the next or right or wrong. Use what makes you warm and fuzzy and ride more and stress less.
I personally tried pressures all over the place and finally gave up on the spyder and moved on. The handling was never going make me happy or make the spyder something it's not.

[tehrlich]

Personally, I don't care what people are running for psi.

What I do care about is loud-mouth-know-it-alls hammering anyone that has a different viewpoint. Their claims of superiority aren't really backed up except by grandiose claims and emoji abuse.

This is really what keeps this stupid topic going.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Personally, I don't care what people are running for psi.

What I do care about is loud-mouth-know-it-alls hammering anyone that has a different viewpoint. Their claims of superiority aren't really backed up except by grandiose claims and emoji abuse.

This is really what keeps this stupid topic going. To the " Newbie's " here, the above is what's known as a " HATE MONGERING " post ........ it is often used by people who have no factual knowledge about the subject they are referring to. So they resort to name calling and other vitriolic musings to compensate for this, and as far as " Hammering " people, it sure looks they are the ones doing all the Hammering etc. ..... Sad :dontknow: ...... Mike :thumbup:

[tehrlich]

To the " Newbie's " here, the above is what's known as a " HATE MONGERING " post ........ it is often used by people who have no factual knowledge about the subject they are referring to. So they resort to name calling and other vitriolic musings to compensate for this, and as far as " Hammering " people, it sure looks they are the ones doing all the Hammering etc. ..... Sad :dontknow: ...... Mike :thumbup:

Why do you think I was referring to you?

LOL

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Why do you think I was referring to you?

LOL
My post didn't say it referred to anyone in particular :dontknow: ..... It was meant as an Informational post ..... OMG :yikes: are you owning up to the fact that you are a " Hate Monger " :2excited: ...................Mike :thumbup:

[jaherbst]

:bdh::popcorn::popcorn:

Jack :D

[Bob Denman]

156729

Can we move on to the oil and helmet fistfights now? :dontknow:

[Richardv]

Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.

"19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort." Since when does a sway bar, help in turning a steering....??????? !!!!! ..... this statement out of the mouth of an expert.....!!!!! wow :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:

[Road-Kill]

"19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort." Since when does a sway bar, help in turning a steering....??????? !!!!! ..... this statement out of the mouth of an expert.....!!!!! wow :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:

I said the same thing before I installed Baja Rons sway bar.
Contact him and he will explain how improving the angle improves steering.
Your response is "a bit" over the top but its ok.

[Easy Rider]

To the " Newbie's " here, the above is what's known as a " HATE MONGERING " post ..

No it isn't at all.
It is expressing a well thought out, honest, analytical opinion.

But then I wouldn't expect you to understand what that is.
(There THAT is an purposefully nasty comment. Happy now.)

[Bob Denman]

But then I wouldn't expect you to understand what that is.
(There THAT is an purposefully nasty comment. Happy now.)

:D I'm happy...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZO5ZQTYJF9Q

:ohyea::ohyea::ohyea::ohyea::ohyea::ohyea::ohyea:: ohyea: :2thumbs:

[kep-up]

O Lord, have mercy, I pray!

[kep-up]

and a very HAPY NEW YEAR to all'a y'all.

I offer this blessing for y'all, my spydering friends:

May the road rise up to meet you;
May the wind be always at your back;
May the sun shine warm upon your face;
May the rain fall soft upon your fields;
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.

[Mazo EMS2]

and a very HAPY NEW YEAR to all'a y'all.

I offer this blessing for y'all, my spydering friends:

May the road rise up to meet you;
May the wind be always at your back;
May the sun shine warm upon your face;
May the rain fall soft upon your fields;
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.

I've sung that one at several funerals.......yikes ......is that where we're at with this thread???? LOCK it up Lamont!!!!

[tehrlich]

Wait.... before it is "locked up," we do have things in common.

Heart warming actually. :)

156750

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Wait.... before it is "locked up," we do have things in common.

Heart warming actually. :)

156750
What's most interesting about this example of ?????? ........ Is the Fact that this has been CROPPED out from someone's post ..... why is it a cropped version ??? ....where is the rest of it ???? .................................................. ......... and YOU claimed a few days ago that my posts directed at You are " Vitriolic " ........ So I'll ask for a THIRD time, Show Me the Posts !!!! ....... It would appear you have amazing research talents ................But even better Editing skills !!!!! .... Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Two can be right, but with totally different descriptions of the same critter!

156753

156752

So which is more accurate?

[Richardv]

I said the same thing before I installed Baja Rons sway bar.
Contact him and he will explain how improving the angle improves steering.
Your response is "a bit" over the top but its ok.
...have a baja ron sway bar installed. It does improve handling, but doesn't help turning the steering when stopped. When rolling, the electric steering assist help turning the wheels, not the sway bar....

[Road-Kill]

...have a baja ron sway bar installed. It does improve handling, but doesn't help turning the steering when stopped. When rolling, the electric steering assist help turning the wheels, not the sway bar....

"handling" is also steering.
I felt as do many that the steering effort was vastly improved with Rons sway bar. (I was a HUGE sceptic)
When a trike leans, albeit slightly, the effort to control it increases.
Even with the electric steering assist a better sway bar improves this effort.

[Wildrice]

Go ahead & laugh--you'll be missing a shoe lace when it's over---I would know about that--several times. Lacey's wearing her boxing gloves.


G157964