Advice and suggestions for curves and Twisties?

[SpyderSkeets]

Hi folks!
I've been enjoying the hell out of my F3-T. However, I am still pretty apprehensive to see what it can do on the curves and Twisties and take them rather slowly. I realize the "Nanny" mode would kick in to prevent a disaster and every circumstance is different but was hoping you could share your advice, suggestions, and experiences with the curves and Twisties.
Thanks!
SS

[Bob Denman]

1. DON'T ever touch your brakes in the middle of a turn...
2. Lean forward, and to the inside of the turn. Scoot your butt cheeks to the inside also!
3. stiffen up your outside leg: it'll keep your weight to the inside of the turn.
4. G r a d u a l l y add power after you've reached the apex of the turn...

It's really all about being smooth... :thumbup:

Just remember: Nanny can save your butt from MOST mistakes... :lecturef_smilie: but there's always a way to get yourself of "Page One"! :yikes:

[Poseidon]

My advice is to trust the bike. It handles like a sports car right out of the box. Plenty of mods you can do to improve on it as well. Seeing where you are at, head west and do some riding in the mountains. Another option would be to find a curvy stretch of rode you are familiar with and practice on it. Keep riding the same stretch and increase your speed in the curves a little each time. A couple of things that will help is shifting your weight to the inside of the bike. The bike doesn't lean, but that doesn't mean you can't. put your head out toward the end of the handlebar on the inside side of the curve. Here are a couple of pics to show you what I mean.

http://motorcycle.com.vsassets.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/120414-ReverseTrike-Spyder-Action-3550-633x388.jpg

http://motorcycle.com.vsassets.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/120414-ReverseTrike-Spyder-Action-3603.jpg

It is also worth noting that brakes and throttle impact steering. Braking thru a curve tries to keep the bike (or any vehicle) going straight. Rolling on a little throttle will help get you around the curve. So, slow down before the curve if need be, maintain current speed going into the curve, then roll on the the throttle mid way thru and power out of the curve. If you have taken the MSF course (Apex up in your area most likely) remember what they taught you about looking thru the curve. You will go where you look.

[Easy Rider]

How long have you been riding.......a Spyder......on two wheels ??

Despite the protests of some here, the handling of the Spyder is VERY quick (twichy) and is entirely different than a 2 wheeled machine.

I came from about 50 years on 2 wheels......and now have about 700 miles on the Spyder.
Some days, my riding is smooth and steady; other days it feels like it wants to jump off the road every time I need to "steer".

I think time and experience are your friends.
I also think that no two people are exactly alike and you NEED to ride your own ride.

I suspect that some folks never get completely comfortable with the different feel.

[SpyderSkeets]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I did take the Apex course last weekend, but learning curves on a closed course at 15-20 MPH is quite different than real world curves at higher speeds. We were taught to shift our weight on the inside of the curve and roll the throttle out of the curve, but frankly, I feel sort of a race biker wannabe when I do it. I know that is something I need to get past, but that's kinda the way I feel as of now. I know every circumstance and curve is different, but let's say you're approaching a curve where the suggested (yellow) speed is 35mph. What speed would you feel comfortable taking it with your Spyder?
Another thing I didn't quite grasp was looking where I want the Spyder to go. Obviously, I don't look down right in front of the Spyder and I scan and look forward. However, what do you mean by looking at where you want to go? Do you keep your eyes on a fixed point at the end of the curve, or what? It just doesn't feel natural. I tried to explain it to the instructors, but I guess I didn't explain it well, or I just didn't understand the process of looking through the curve.

[SpyderSkeets]

How long have you been riding.......a Spyder......on two wheels ??

Despite the protests of some here, the handling of the Spyder is VERY quick (twichy) and is entirely different than a 2 wheeled machine.

I came from about 50 years on 2 wheels......and now have about 700 miles on the Spyder.
Some days, my riding is smooth and steady; other days it feels like it wants to jump off the road every time I need to "steer".

I think time and experience are your friends.
I also think that no two people are exactly alike and you NEED to ride your own ride.

I suspect that some folks never get completely comfortable with the different feel.

I've had my Spyder for about two weeks and have put about 600 miles on it. I've had "some" experience on two wheels, and can ride if need be, but the experience is minimal. I agree that my comfort level will increase with time and experience and no two riders and environments are alike, but I still like to hear what others have to say and use that at a foundation on building up my confidence.

[classicvw]

I only have about 300 miles on my Spyder and am still learning to be comfortable and trust the bike. It's a very different animal from a two wheeler. I never really realized how even a slight shifting of my body steers a two wheeled M/C, but that same slight shift does absolutely nothing when riding a Spyder.

Maybe you're feeling like a racer because you haven't found the right combination of slightly slowing into the curve and then slightly adding throttle going out of it. You just have to find that smooth ratio. Don't slam the throttle open when you're at the curve apex.

[asp125]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I did take the Apex course last weekend, but learning curves on a closed course at 15-20 MPH is quite different than real world curves at higher speeds. We were taught to shift our weight on the inside of the curve and roll the throttle out of the curve, but frankly, I feel sort of a race biker wannabe when I do it. I know that is something I need to get past, but that's kinda the way I feel as of now. I know every circumstance and curve is different, but let's say you're approaching a curve where the suggested (yellow) speed is 35mph. What speed would you feel comfortable taking it with your Spyder?
Another thing I didn't quite grasp was looking where I want the Spyder to go. Obviously, I don't look down right in front of the Spyder and I scan and look forward. However, what do you mean by looking at where you want to go? Do you keep your eyes on a fixed point at the end of the curve, or what? It just doesn't feel natural. I tried to explain it to the instructors, but I guess I didn't explain it well, or I just didn't understand the process of looking through the curve.

Race biker wannabe is exactly the way you need to take corners at speed. 15-20mph or 35-40mph the basics are the same. Look ahead through the curve, weight to the inside (brace against the outside footpeg).

Advisory speeds? A 35mph corner probably has a 40-50mph posted speed on the straights. For a new rider get your entry speed down to 35 before turn in. Then gradually roll on the throttle once past the apex and back up to speed on the exit. As you get seat time you can gradually try faster entry speeds but the basic techniques apply. On some corners I can take them at the posted speed, ignoring the advisory speeds, and the nanny doesn't even wake up.

[blitzkreig]

Don't be afraid to get your foot (feet) into the action. Press down hard with the leg (foot) on the outside of the curve.

[4 MARIE]

[QUOTE=classicvw;1303147]. I never really realized how even a slight shifting of my body steers a two wheeled M/C, but that same slight shift does absolutely nothing when riding a Spyder.

like previously stated, the weight shift, or Transfer if you prefer, is used to allow your body to more easily combat the
centrifugal force that tries to toss you off to the outside. This centrifugal force is really the only cornering issue on the Spyder.
Some do the whole "superbiker seat slide", some push down on the outside foot, for me I do a little head and shoulders shift.
It ain't dramatic, but get's the job done.
You are so new to the Spyder game. Don't sweat the speed in corners thing. It will come to you, I guarantee it. Use it wisely.

[INfox]

Two months and 1800 miles – I am finally comfortable in the curves.

All the tips listed here are very good.

I use my knee to push on the gas tank from inside of the curve I’m riding. This helps me greatly if I need to keep up with my son. Leaning to the side of the cure and little to the front helps a lot, but the knee trick works so much better. I don’t even have to lean in curves while driving slower anymore. Riding the same curvy roads many times and gradually speeding up helps a lot.

I wonder sometimes 'who' defines these recommended speed, each curve is different. I don’t think I ever drove curves at the recommended speed, I am typically 10-15 miles/hr; sometimes even 20 miles/hr faster – on a dry road and if its not raining.

[blitzkreig]

I wonder sometimes 'who' defines these recommended speed, each curve is different. I don’t think I ever drove curves at the recommended speed, I am typically 10-15 miles/hr; sometimes even 20 miles/hr faster – on a dry road and if its not raining. I have always believed that those posted speeds were for semi-trailers so that they don't tip over. They certainly don't make much sense otherwise.

[UtahPete]

My advice is to trust the bike. It handles like a sports car right out of the box. Plenty of mods you can do to improve on it as well. Seeing where you are at, head west and do some riding in the mountains. Another option would be to find a curvy stretch of rode you are familiar with and practice on it. Keep riding the same stretch and increase your speed in the curves a little each time. A couple of things that will help is shifting your weight to the inside of the bike. The bike doesn't lean, but that doesn't mean you can't. put your head out toward the end of the handlebar on the inside side of the curve. Here are a couple of pics to show you what I mean.

It is also worth noting that brakes and throttle impact steering. Braking thru a curve tries to keep the bike (or any vehicle) going straight. Rolling on a little throttle will help get you around the curve. So, slow down before the curve if need be, maintain current speed going into the curve, then roll on the the throttle mid way thru and power out of the curve. If you have taken the MSF course (Apex up in your area most likely) remember what they taught you about looking thru the curve. You will go where you look.

Couldn't agree more. At the NoCal rally, I decided to really push it (2014RT stock) through the hairpin turns on a 10-mile stretch of forest road where tree roots occasionally lifted the pavement, which was not very well maintained (but lightly traveled by others). The bike never once gave me the feeling that it was breaking the tires loose; it was very controlled like a sports car would be. With a bajaron sway bar and stiffer shocks I imagine cornering would have been even more impressive, but it was good enough for the kind of riding (touring) I typically do. Oh yeah - I was following an F3 driven by a maniac in braids and did a pretty good job staying with her. Where she lost me was in the many blind turns (can't see around the curve), where she kept going but I slowed down to what I felt comfortable with (where I live, wildlife on the road, fallen rocks, etc are not uncommon so I don't overdrive the environment I'm in).

The reason I went with the Spyder in the first place is because of its impressive stability and handling. Unlike standard trikes. The dynamics involved with bending a spyder through the turns is different than a two-wheeler but in my estimation every bit as fast.

To answer another question by the OP, I found I can comfortably push the fully-laden bike through turns at 1-1/2 times the posted cautionary speed (yellow signs). Probably more if I want an adrenalin rush (I don't anymore).

[Lew L]

Pete,

You must be remembering Hyw 4 at Ebbets Pass. Your forgot the gravel in the roadway and the trucks on the one lane, up hill , tight radius hairpin turns. It was great fun though.

Kaos

[UtahPete]

Pete, You must be remembering Hyw 4 at Ebbets Pass. Your forgot the gravel in the roadway and the trucks on the one lane, up hill , tight radius hairpin turns. It was great fun though. Kaos

Actually, it was the even hairier ride that Stacy took me on to Spicer Reservoir. https://www.google.com/maps/place/CA-4,+California/@38.4092722,-120.0569688,13.5z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x809a83f878b8d27b:0x165944a9a3718 b98!8m2!3d37.944788!4d-120.9403453

Ebbets Pass Road is a great motorcycle road for sure, but couldn't really get any speed up with all the traffic (including all the Spyders).

[Easy Rider]

Another thing I didn't quite grasp was looking where I want the Spyder to go.

Once you get thoroughly comfortable with your ride, some things will happen sort of automatically.
One of those things is: The bike will tend to GO where you are LOOKING.

Maybe a better explanation is: Do not look where you DON'T want to go......don't look AT a hazzard you are trying to avoid.......if you start running wide don't look AT the curb that you are trying to avoid.

So, on routine riding just don't fix your gaze on the edge of the road or on the other lane or any other place where you DON'T want to go.

The effect can be REALLY pronounced and dangerous on 2 wheels.
I think maybe not so much on 3 but I don't have enough time in the seat to know for sure.

[UtahPete]

Once you get thoroughly comfortable with your ride, some things will happen sort of automatically. One of those things is: The bike will tend to GO where you are LOOKING. Maybe a better explanation is: Do not look where you DON'T want to go......don't look AT a hazzard you are trying to avoid.......if you start running wide don't look AT the curb that you are trying to avoid. So, on routine riding just don't fix your gaze on the edge of the road or on the other lane or any other place where you DON'T want to go. The effect can be REALLY pronounced and dangerous on 2 wheels. I think maybe not so much on 3 but I don't have enough time in the seat to know for sure.

Good advice. As he said the effect is less pronounced on the Spyder, but very important on a 2-wheeler. My experience with these MSF courses is they are very good for 2-wheelers, but have not yet been appropriately modified to reflect the very different dynamics of a Spyder.

[Easy Rider]

This helps me greatly if I need to keep up with my son.

I wonder sometimes 'who' defines these recommended speed, each curve is different.

That comment worries me a bit because "trying to keep up" with a faster rider sometimes results in really unfortunate crashes.

The yellow "safe" curve speed is set, I believe, for the worst case situation: A semi with a top heavy load......and/or worst conditions like heavy rain.

[loisk]

Yep, all good stuff.

Look where you want to go - your body will do the rest

Put some weight/strength on the outside leg in a curve, to counteract centrifugal force

You really don't have to slide your bum all over the place - your head is the heaviest part of your body - a head and shoulder move will do the trick. Relaxed elbows.

Keep it smooth, smooth

Keep a really light grip on the bars.

If you get caught a bit hot in a bend - the spyder will look after you - just look where you want to go, tighten the bars a bit more, lean a little more, all good ! (Take a bit of throttle off if you want, dab the brakes if you feel you need to, tho ideally not)

Oh - check your tyre pressures ! Low pressures (and poor front wheel alignment especially on the earlier models) will really mess up the curves.

Did I say keep it smooth?

Yes, different to two wheels - spyders have their own kind of magic - ride with the bike and it'll all be good.

Re suggested speeds in curves - I never believe them, too many decreasing radius, off-camber curves. I ride smoothly until I can see the exit, then accelerate out of the curve. The guy ahead might start the curve faster than me, but I am all caught up at the end of the curve. Ride your ride, not anybody else's.

[ARtraveler]

If you are crossing the center lines, you are going to fast for your abilities. It gets better and easier with miles in the saddle. :yes:

[SpyderSkeets]

Once you get thoroughly comfortable with your ride, some things will happen sort of automatically.
One of those things is: The bike will tend to GO where you are LOOKING.

Maybe a better explanation is: Do not look where you DON'T want to go......don't look AT a hazzard you are trying to avoid.......if you start running wide don't look AT the curb that you are trying to avoid.

So, on routine riding just don't fix your gaze on the edge of the road or on the other lane or any other place where you DON'T want to go.

The effect can be REALLY pronounced and dangerous on 2 wheels.
I think maybe not so much on 3 but I don't have enough time in the seat to know for sure.


Thanks. I already do this (not much different than driving a car). I guess the way they were putting so much emphasis on "looking where you want to go" kinda had me thinking I was doing something wrong, but I suppose I was doing it right all along.
Thanks for the other replies as well!

[UtahPete]

Thanks. I already do this (not much different than driving a car). I guess the way they were putting so much emphasis on "looking where you want to go" kinda had me thinking I was doing something wrong, but I suppose I was doing it right all along. Thanks for the other replies as well!

Yeah, take those riding courses designed for 2-wheelers with a heavy dose of salt...

[Peter Aawen]

Re the 'look where you want to go' bit, it doesn't matter what you are driving or riding, you should practice looking out ahead as far as you can to work out where the road is going, then scan back along the path you want to travel until you are looking at what's just ahead of your vehicle.... ;)

Incorporate that into the 'continual scan' that you should be doing to keep you aware of what's going on around you & by 'looking where you want to go' & repeatedly scanning your path, your body/muscle memory will work FOR you instead of against you!! As others have said, DO NOT watch those things you want to avoid; DO NOT fix your focus on any one spot, keep scanning from as far ahead as you can see back to the front of your vehicle, keep on tracking the path you want to follow so that by the time you actually get there you don't find any surprises! :thumbup:

[INfox]

That comment worries me a bit because "trying to keep up" with a faster rider sometimes results in really unfortunate crashes.

The yellow "safe" curve speed is set, I believe, for the worst case situation: A semi with a top heavy load......and/or worst conditions like heavy rain.

You have a good point.
I am trying to be very careful even I drive faster than I probably should. I do have a huge gap between him and me often if I don't feel comfortable enough to drive that fast. I need to slow down a bit and gain more experience first. Having too much fun could get me in a hospital and to loose my new and expensive trike.

[ARNIE R]

Take a ride up to Skyline Drive. It is only 35mph, but, plenty of gentle curves to practice on. For further excitement, just run up and down RT 211 on either side of the Drive a few times. 35mph on the east side, but 45mph on the west side and plenty of tight turns. Plus, the scenery ain't too bad either........

[asp125]

Take a ride up to Skyline Drive. It is only 35mph, but, plenty of gentle curves to practice on. For further excitement, just run up and down RT 211 on either side of the Drive a few times. 35mph on the east side, but 45mph on the west side and plenty of tight turns. Plus, the scenery ain't too bad either........

+1 Skyline is a good road. We were there in 2014. Should be great now with fall colors. Only 35mph you say? ;) ;) I think I hit those a weeee bit faster. ;)

[canamjhb]

A lot of very good input and experience here. The only thing I would add is to follow your nose. That is, point your head and nose into the curve and stick your nose out and follow it. Keeping your inside knee tucked hard against the bike and the outside foot firmly planted helps too. Having been a 2 wheel transplant, I still have to think what to do in corners when first getting into twisties. But after a bit I get into a "groove" and it becomes fun... I don't know if the Spyder riding technique will ever become as natural for me as the 2 wheel. But it does get a little easier each time.

[Poseidon]

+1 Skyline is a good road. We were there in 2014. Should be great now with fall colors. Only 35mph you say? ;) ;) I think I hit those a weeee bit faster. ;)
Trust me, you could take them a lot faster. It is pretty tame as far as mountain roads go. Problem is that the actual speed limit on Skyline Dr is only 35 mph the entire length of it. It is pretty heavily patrolled too.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Another thing I didn't quite grasp was looking where I want the Spyder to go. Obviously, I don't look down right in front of the Spyder and I scan and look forward. However, what do you mean by looking at where you want to go? Do you keep your eyes on a fixed point at the end of the curve, or what? It just doesn't feel natural. I tried to explain it to the instructors, but I guess I didn't explain it well, or I just didn't understand the process of looking through the curve.
That is a continuing challenge for me. I tend to look at the road just in front of me, and has caused me a few less than great riding moments. One thing I do once in awhile is pretend there is a rabbit running 100 to 200 or so feet in front of me in the area of the lane I need to be riding in. I keep my eye on the rabbit and that's where I go! That helps me to keep looking at the road surface as it moves under the point of focus. It's easy to look at a spot in the road and keep one's gaze focused on it as you come closer and closer to it. When you do that your focus jumps from spot to spot rather than gliding along the road.

Another way to view the situation is what's called object fixation. If you focus on the side of a semi coming toward you you run a high risk of driving right into the side of the semi. I think I may have suffered that phenomenon once on my Goldwing. I was looking at the concrete barrier along the side of the road on a curve. I ran off the edge of the asphalt and threw gravel everywhere. Between my guardian angel and I we kept the bike upright. It also may have been a case of going into the corner too fast. I never was able to figure out exactly why I did it.

[bushrat]

‘How’ to do it is one thing… ‘why’ is completely another. Thrills? Adrenalin rush? A test of your skills? Finding your bike’s limits? Or simply finding out when you should have spare underwear handy?

Lots of excellent advice and input above on HOW to do it and survive. But, how many of us first ask WHY we need to do it and, further, are we truly up to it? And, most importantly, is our bike ready for it?

I do understand the ‘need for speed’, the sense of ‘accomplishment’ that comes from successful fast rides on roller-coaster-like roads. Adrenaline surges can be addictive. I grew up with sports cars, and did the practice routines night after night until I got pretty damned good; I could drive many roads well beyond posted limits. I later learned to do it somewhat on two-wheelers, as well. I look back now and shudder at how stupidly foolish a lot of it was. Often, I simply relied on my car or bike to be capable and ready, totally neglecting that the professionals I was trying to emulate have properly prepared, specially tuned machines, equipped for racing and stress; mine wasn’t. Those drivers had experience; I was learning by trial and error. I expected the familiar roads to be in the same condition, the same traffic load every time; they weren’t. And they weren't controlled race tracks or circuits. I left a lot of things to chance. Mostly, I got off lucky… extremely so in one or two instances. Are both you and your bike in proper shape? I hope so; and I also hope you will be as fortunate, and without problems.

Yes, fast riding can be exhilarating. And practicing to become a better rider has many benefits. How far do you need to push it? Why? Think about those answers before you try. You’ll be better prepared for the consequences, whatever they turn out to be. I’m not saying don’t do it. Just remember there are more things involved in riding the twisties well than simply looking through the curve and leaning to the inside. Road conditions change since the last time you were there and issues can spring up when least expected. Loose gravel; weather too. Fog patches, blown tires, mechanical issues, etc… Can you handle those while concentrating on the Apex? **** happens, and you’d better be prepared to deal with it if you are continually going to challenge yourself and your bike. Other family members also have to deal with the consequences of your decisions.

Two scenarios from my life: spare underwear lesson #1... the night I was doing my regular practice run in my MGB through local twisties. Thought I could handle that damn road pretty well. Decided to up my entry speed another couple of notches at a crucial corner. Downhill sharp right turn; down-shifting, brake-tapping, wheel-tugging all required in quick coordination. Didn’t hit it quite as well as I should have. Got into a long 4-wheel drift which took me diagonally across the oncoming lane. Fortunately, no traffic. I drifted far enough that I was chewing up gravel on the far shoulder, left rear wheel momentarily in mid-air. And, I was just far enough down the road that I was fast approaching three large elm trees on that shoulder, 2’-3’ in diameter. Hadn’t even thought about them. My side-slide corrected just before potential impact. I was lucky. I was also stupid for trying to be a rally racer when I was literally just (at that moment) a wet-assed kid.

I was a slow learner. Five years later, I absolutely totalled a Porsche 911 one night, doing twisties, though not really trying to push it. Just happened to be on an unfamiliar, curvy road with very inaccurate road signs. Also had been driving through a shallow valley when we came to a slight rise with a marked, checker-board warning showing “Danger” and a 90 degree left turn. At that very moment, we climbed into a hitherto unseen low-lying fog bank. Totally lost sight of the curve, the pavement; nothing but grey mist everywhere. And, the big tight curve turned out to be a far more gentle 20-30 degree sweeper. Front right tire hit the shoulder; I corrected sharply, anticipating 90 degree left turn. Felt the left front tire cross the oncoming shoulder. Corrected again, but we were by then in a broad, shallow ditch. Could have gone for miles without a problem, and likely come to a safe stop. But after about 40’, and still doing 50 mph, we hit a mound of dirt. Shouldn't have been there, but was. Result: Porsche did 3 somersaults. I wasn’t wearing my seat belt. Came out through the windshield head first, flew through the air barely conscious and landed in 8” of mud. Car followed along behind, hit a wood telephone pole about 10’ up and dropped to the ground, on its wheels, motor racing wide open, gas tank ruptured. Also right on top of me; only my head sticking out under passenger side rocker panel. I was completely pinned in the mud, unconscious at first, but slowly came around. I was alive only because the car did a half-turn in mid-air, before it dropped. After they lifted the Porsche off me and dragged me from the mud, I walked to the ambulance that took me to hospital and found I had a fractured skull. Lots of bruises, some pain. Kinda messed up for a few days. I lived, but have friends who question whether I have ever been ‘totally right’ since.

To say I was extremely lucky is a gross understatement. A small part of me still looks at twisties and says: “I wonder how fast….? But then, something else says: “you’ve spent a lifetime rushing around this world; maybe we should relax and enjoy the scenery a bit more deeply and slowly.” I like that second voice, today.

Me, the wife and our Spyder love the twisties, including noticing the leaves on the trees, the birds and chipmunks. We go a little slower now, and take it all in.

Apologies for the ramble.

[loisk]

Taking the twisties beautifully and smoothly has little to do with sheer speed - not my thing - but getting a bend "just right" at a reasonable clip is a great feeling - whether on two or three wheels.

[cmbspyderrss]

A ton of great suggestions above. For me, i take those, relax, slow down and just ryde. Nothing better than seat time. I am a visual learner and while the below is not meant to be a training video, you may pick up some things that work or don't work for you. You can occasionally see the MPH, RPM, my body English in the mirror etc.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kULohb-7Wg&t=233s

[Bob Denman]

‘How’ to do it is one thing… ‘why’ is completely another. Thrills? Adrenalin rush? A test of your skills? Finding your bike’s limits? Or simply finding out when you should have spare underwear handy?

Lots of excellent advice and input above on HOW to do it and survive. But, how many of us first ask WHY we need to do it and, further, are we truly up to it? And, most importantly, is our bike ready for it?

I do understand the ‘need for speed’, the sense of ‘accomplishment’ that comes from successful fast rides on roller-coaster-like roads. Adrenaline surges can be addictive. I grew up with sports cars, and did the practice routines night after night until I got pretty damned good; I could drive many roads well beyond posted limits. I later learned to do it somewhat on two-wheelers, as well. I look back now and shudder at how stupidly foolish a lot of it was. Often, I simply relied on my car or bike to be capable and ready, totally neglecting that the professionals I was trying to emulate have properly prepared, specially tuned machines, equipped for racing and stress; mine wasn’t. Those drivers had experience; I was learning by trial and error. I expected the familiar roads to be in the same condition, the same traffic load every time; they weren’t. And they weren't controlled race tracks or circuits. I left a lot of things to chance. Mostly, I got off lucky… extremely so in one or two instances. Are both you and your bike in proper shape? I hope so; and I also hope you will be as fortunate, and without problems.

Yes, fast riding can be exhilarating. And practicing to become a better rider has many benefits. How far do you need to push it? Why? Think about those answers before you try. You’ll be better prepared for the consequences, whatever they turn out to be. I’m not saying don’t do it. Just remember there are more things involved in riding the twisties well than simply looking through the curve and leaning to the inside. Road conditions change since the last time you were there and issues can spring up when least expected. Loose gravel; weather too. Fog patches, blown tires, mechanical issues, etc… Can you handle those while concentrating on the Apex? **** happens, and you’d better be prepared to deal with it if you are continually going to challenge yourself and your bike. Other family members also have to deal with the consequences of your decisions.

Two scenarios from my life: spare underwear lesson #1... the night I was doing my regular practice run in my MGB through local twisties. Thought I could handle that damn road pretty well. Decided to up my entry speed another couple of notches at a crucial corner. Downhill sharp right turn; down-shifting, brake-tapping, wheel-tugging all required in quick coordination. Didn’t hit it quite as well as I should have. Got into a long 4-wheel drift which took me diagonally across the oncoming lane. Fortunately, no traffic. I drifted far enough that I was chewing up gravel on the far shoulder, left rear wheel momentarily in mid-air. And, I was just far enough down the road that I was fast approaching three large elm trees on that shoulder, 2’-3’ in diameter. Hadn’t even thought about them. My side-slide corrected just before potential impact. I was lucky. I was also stupid for trying to be a rally racer when I was literally just (at that moment) a wet-assed kid.

I was a slow learner. Five years later, I absolutely totalled a Porsche 911 one night, doing twisties, though not really trying to push it. Just happened to be on an unfamiliar, curvy road with very inaccurate road signs. Also had been driving through a shallow valley when we came to a slight rise with a marked, checker-board warning showing “Danger” and a 90 degree left turn. At that very moment, we climbed into a hitherto unseen low-lying fog bank. Totally lost sight of the curve, the pavement; nothing but grey mist everywhere. And, the big tight curve turned out to be a far more gentle 20-30 degree sweeper. Front right tire hit the shoulder; I corrected sharply, anticipating 90 degree left turn. Felt the left front tire cross the oncoming shoulder. Corrected again, but we were by then in a broad, shallow ditch. Could have gone for miles without a problem, and likely come to a safe stop. But after about 40’, and still doing 50 mph, we hit a mound of dirt. Shouldn't have been there, but was. Result: Porsche did 3 somersaults. I wasn’t wearing my seat belt. Came out through the windshield head first, flew through the air barely conscious and landed in 8” of mud. Car followed along behind, hit a wood telephone pole about 10’ up and dropped to the ground, on its wheels, motor racing wide open, gas tank ruptured. Also right on top of me; only my head sticking out under passenger side rocker panel. I was completely pinned in the mud, unconscious at first, but slowly came around. I was alive only because the car did a half-turn in mid-air, before it dropped. After they lifted the Porsche off me and dragged me from the mud, I walked to the ambulance that took me to hospital and found I had a fractured skull. Lots of bruises, some pain. Kinda messed up for a few days. I lived, but have friends who question whether I have ever been ‘totally right’ since.

To say I was extremely lucky is a gross understatement. A small part of me still looks at twisties and says: “I wonder how fast….? But then, something else says: “you’ve spent a lifetime rushing around this world; maybe we should relax and enjoy the scenery a bit more deeply and slowly.” I like that second voice, today.

Me, the wife and our Spyder love the twisties, including noticing the leaves on the trees, the birds and chipmunks. We go a little slower now, and take it all in.

Apologies for the ramble.

:clap: Thank you!! :2thumbs: :agree:
If you use your skills to ride smoothly: you'll see a lot more of the scenery! :yes:

[foxtail1]

I think all of us have been there. I posted something similar at about the 200 mile point. (I turned over 1,000 miles on the way to work this morning.) Somewhere around the 500-600 mile point, suddenly the curves were fun again (coming from a 2 wheeler history).

Of the much excellent advice here, what helped me the most was realizing that even though the bike doesn't lean, I still should. I get low, lean my upper body into the turn, and push with the outside leg. Of course, the road quality has a lot to do with this. A well banked curve doesn't make me feel like I'm about to fly off.

The other thing is about where to look— look through the curve. It sounds strange, but the bike really does just follow where you're looking. And, to have fun, once you're at the midway point or slightly beyond, add some gas and power through.

[HankD]

I have found that yelling "Woo Hooo!!" inside my full-face helmet helps me thru the twisties. :clap::clap::yes:

[OlJim]

An old sprint car driver told me once to "Run it in so hard and deep that you think it would take God to make the corner and then stand on the gas." Good luck.

[Easy Rider]

I need to slow down a bit and gain more experience first.

Riding groups that REALLY care about riders that are new or with a drastically different new ride will put them at the FRONT of the pack and allow extra following distance and let them set the pace.

Riders who sprint away from their less experienced group members are NOT being good riding partners.

[Easy Rider]

An old sprint car driver told me once to "Run it in so hard and deep that you think it would take God to make the corner and then stand on the gas." Good luck.


That works on dirt. Not so much on pavement. ;)

[INfox]

Riding groups that REALLY care about riders that are new or with a drastically different new ride will put them at the FRONT of the pack and allow extra following distance and let them set the pace.

Riders who sprint away from their less experienced group members are NOT being good riding partners.

I agree and I am in the front part of our group which does not cut the curves as fast as my son does (Goldwings vs a crotch rocket bikes). I am not new to bikes, just to Spyders.

Young people are not as wise as the older ones plus they have very little fear. Luckily I don’t do many rides with him, although he selects nicely paved twisties and cuvies (which of course don’t eliminate unexpected “ road features” of the day).

[ARNIE R]

Trust me, you could take them a lot faster. It is pretty tame as far as mountain roads go. Problem is that the actual speed limit on Skyline Dr is only 35 mph the entire length of it. It is pretty heavily patrolled too.

Yes, everytime I go up there, I see at least 2 radar units just in the upper third of the Drive.

[Peteoz]

Riding groups that REALLY care about riders that are new or with a drastically different new ride will put them at the FRONT of the pack and allow extra following distance and let them set the pace.

Riders who sprint away from their less experienced group members are NOT being good riding partners.

Just because riders at the front sprint away from less experienced riders definitely does not mean they are not good riding partners, Easy Rider;). We pick a tail end Charlie (or Charlies) who don't care how long it takes to get "there", put the new rider(s) in front of them, and let the fast riders go at the front. That way everyone gets to ride at their own pace and has a good time, and there are never complaints at stops.:thumbup: It works an absolute treat for us. Mind you, we do INSIST that Ural riders start the ride several days before the rest of us :D

Pete

[Peter Aawen]

.... Mind you, we do INSIST that Ural riders start the ride several days before the rest of us.....

As you should! :thumbup:

[Wrongway]

Hi folks!
I've been enjoying the hell out of my F3-T. However, I am still pretty apprehensive to see what it can do on the curves and Twisties and take them rather slowly. I realize the "Nanny" mode would kick in to prevent a disaster and every circumstance is different but was hoping you could share your advice, suggestions, and experiences with the curves and Twisties.
Thanks!
SS

Reading your post is almost like I wrote it a month ago.
When we first got our RT about 6 weeks ago, the feeling of the cornering was so foreign to me after 50 years on 2 wheels.
After one ride my wife actually mentioned to me that it was very jerky through the sweeping curves. I did realize this but figured it was the nature of the beast.
I immediately went out on my own for a ride on a road with a lot of curves and finally the brain kicked in. I was looking at the front of the Spyder.
As soon as I started looking further ahead in the curves the same as I'd done for years on 2 wheels, all is smooth again.
I really felt stupid when I realized what was wrong and debated whether or not to embarass myself by even posting this but I suspect it's a common mistake.
Last friday I added the bajaron swaybar and links......OMG, I have a new Spyder. What a difference.
Anyway, enjoy your F3-T.

Greg

[Easy Rider]

Just because riders at the front sprint away from less experienced riders definitely does not mean they are not good riding partners, Easy Rider;).

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

[foxtail1]

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

Agreed! On my first (and only) Harley group ride, as a new Harley rider, the group leaders led us on a merry chase, exceeding the speed limits from the start. Of course I tried to keep up. They even went way beyond the 45 mph speed limit on a stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway. (Any wonder it was my only group ride?)

[Docster]

Sorry but we will just have to disagree on this......UNLESS the group is effectively split into two groups.

If that is not done, the "jack rabbit" behavior encourages those with lesser skills or experience to exceed their limitations........and is RUDE and potentially dangerous behavior. Showing off does NOT make a good riding partner.

:clap:Agree. Our club rides include a tailgunner but we always ride as a GROUP. For many reasons that's why it's called a GROUP ride.

[UtahPete]

Agree.Our club rides include a tailgunner but we always ride as a GROUP. For many reasons that's why it's called a GROUP ride.

It's not the only way to conduct a safe and sane group ryde, but those coming from a H.O.G. background seem to think otherwise.

In the twisties, in particular, trying to ride as a cohesive group is just begging for trouble.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This discussion begs a response.

The MSF, GWRRA, and others have guidelines for group riding that are designed to ensure the group ride is first and foremost, SAFE. An unsafe ride is not fun, especially if someone crashes. First, a group needs to have a leader at the front and a tail gunner at the rear and have a means to communicate via radio. The group should be no more than 6 to 7 bikes. If the group is larger than about 13 or 14 it needs to be split into two smaller groups. The groups need to stay far enough apart to allow cars to pass and return to the lane in between the groups. The riders in a group need to stay close enough together to restrict cars from passing and inserting themselves between bikes. The riders should stay 1 to 2 seconds apart when in staggered formation and 2 to 3 seconds apart when in single file. Use staggered formation on the straight stretches and single file in the twisties. Staggered doesn't always work with trikes. The riders need to stay close enough so that hand signals from any one rider can be seen and repeated by the rider in front and particularly behind. The group should never try to ride faster than what the slowest rider is comfortable with. This may mean that there needs to be two or more separate groups each traveling at the speed they want with a clear understanding where they will all meet up periodically along the way and at the end.

There is a critical need for group riding training in the Spyder riders community. Group riding MUST NOT be a hap hazard gathering of bikes speeding along the highway. If you get into one get out as soon as you can and ride safely by yourself.

The ONLY exception to the above guidelines is an officially escorted ride where law enforcement provides traffic control.

[asp125]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front. 1. They don't know how to lead, 2. They don't know how to communicate hand signals, and 3. They aren't comfortable making the right decisions if they encounter hazards.

We usually put newbies in the middle "near" the front two or three advanced group leaders.

[UtahPete]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front. 1. They don't know how to lead, 2. They don't know how to communicate hand signals, and 3. They aren't comfortable making the right decisions if they encounter hazards. We usually put newbies in the middle "near" the front two or three advanced group leaders.

We're way off topic (riding the twisties); I've started a new thread re: group rides.

[Easy Rider]

In the twisties, in particular, trying to ride as a cohesive group is just begging for trouble.

A properly spaced group can still be "cohesive" because the spacing varies depending on conditions.
But that has to be explained and everybody in the group needs to understand.

Riding side by side is NOT good group riding technique......on ANY road.

Oh....and when your riding group is composed of 70 year olds and up......the spacing spreads out on almost ANY kind of curve in the road. :thumbup:

[Easy Rider]

The riders in a group need to stay close enough together to restrict cars from passing and inserting themselves between bikes.

I think the word "restrict" should be "discourage".

When on a bike/trike one should ALWAYS yield to a bigger vehicle that want your lane. ALWAYS.
Most of the time when that happens they need to turn right at the next intersection.......and they are gone; no problem.

And a really courteous and safe driver does that when in a car too.

[Easy Rider]

We digress. On our group rides we never put beginners AT the front.

Absolutely right......for a "formal" group ride.

A few friends getting together to go a few miles for lunch often is quite a different matter though.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I think the word "restrict" should be "discourage".

When on a bike/trike one should ALWAYS yield to a bigger vehicle that want your lane. ALWAYS.
Most of the time when that happens they need to turn right at the next intersection.......and they are gone; no problem.

And a really courteous and safe driver does that when in a car too.
Good point. :agree:

[CSI]

Speaking of riding the twisties....

Can the level of "nanny" be adjusted on a 2016 RT?

I was coming into the corners posted 30 at about 50.....about the time I would hit the apex and start rolling back into the throttle, the nanny would kick in.

Yes, I know how fast these particular corners can be taken at......the RT is the wife's ride.....I have an FJR, and normally enter those same turns at 55, exiting at 60 or better

[Peter Aawen]

Ppl
......Can the level of "nanny" be adjusted on a 2016 RT? ....

Simple answer - NO! Not on any of the Spyders. :mad:

Well, not unless you get an ECU re-flash done by someone who knows what they are doing!! :shocked:

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; judge the steering angle better; maybe even adjust your tire pressure up or down a tad to better suit your ryding style (have you checked tread temps or used the 4psi rule to optimise your tire pressures for YOUR ryding yet?); and basically learn to ryde just below the Nanny's intervention thresholds instead.... :thumbup:

Clarification edit: the press on the outside foot does NOT involve moving any weight that way, it is purely a means by which you add to the pull on the inside handlebar in order to push your weight across to the inside of the corner. Your weight must move across the centreline of the bike into the inside of the corner, that requires something to push against & you need to keep that spot as low & as close to the centreline of the bike as you can to minimise the leverage it places onto the bike & the outside of the turn; so try to use your outside foot instead of your outside hand, cos using your hand to push against applies massive leverage up high & on the outside of the turn which thereby counteracts/negates the majority of any other weight transfer you may make.... :( The harder/faster/smoother you want to turn, the more weight you need to move across to the inside & if you can, get it down low too, so it doesn't act like the pendulum on a metronome swinging outwards up high as the turn progresses. ;)

[Peteoz]

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; :thumbup:

Peter, just by way of clarification, when you say “press on the outside foot more”, is that simply to help push your body weight to the inside better and sooner?

Pete

[Peter Aawen]

:thumbup: Spot On!! :thumbup:

[CSI]

Simple answer - NO! Not on any of the Spyders. :mad:

Well, not unless you get an ECU re-flash done by someone who knows what they are doing!! :shocked:

But you CAN practice & learn to improve the smoothness of your corner entry; get your weight across & inside sooner; pull on the inside hand & press on the outside foot more; judge the steering angle better; maybe even adjust your tire pressure up or down a tad to better suit your ryding style (have you checked tread temps or used the 4psi rule to optimise your tire pressures for YOUR ryding yet?); and basically learn to ryde just below the Nanny's intervention thresholds instead.... :thumbup:


I was asking out of curiosity, more than anything. My wife has had the nanny activate on her a couple of times, but I can get it to raise its ugly head pretty much at will. I don't ride it often, as I am still on two wheels.....but I was rather surprised how easy it will activate...of course, I was also running it into turns at the same speed as I do on my FJR.....I know, I know...I am comparing apples to oranges.

Regarding tire pressures, we have it set at 18 front, and 22 rear. Front still has the stock Kendas mounted, and a CT on the rear, and it has a BajaRon Sway bar. The sway bar helped immensely with body roll, btw.

[Easy Rider]

the nanny would kick in.


And do what exactly ?

AND......how dare you drag a thread back on topic !!! :roflblack:

[Easy Rider]

Peter, just by way of clarification, when you say “press on the outside foot more”, is that simply to help push your body weight to the inside better and sooner?


I think yes.

And the more I exercise my new ride, the more I think that a lot of problems with curves/turns are caused by trying to use your arms for BOTH turning the bars AND getting your upper body into position (or keeping it from going out of position). That sometimes causes me to make unintended small turns to the bars.

Something else new to learn.

[Samson]

Go look for the twisty roads in your area and practice at a time when traffic will be minimal. I am fortunate to have two great areas within about 12 miles of my house, Mingus Mountain to Jerome and Yarnell Hill. I did Mingus yesterday and I am doing Yarnell this morning. Practice at the lower speeds and practice form, repeating at every corner, maybe even make 2 or 3 passes. You will find that you are starting to increase speeds and will very quickly feel very comfy. The F3 feels like it's on rails and acceleration out of the corners is very good.

Have fun and be safe!

[greybeard]

I think what you guys are missing is the length of the curves (45 deg. vs 120 deg). Here in Indiana most curves are short maybe 45 deg. so 15 mph over is easy. go out to Maggie Valley where curves are much longer 90-120 deg and much harder to hold your speed. Pick a line going in to the curve and stick to it. I think the biggest mistake is turning too hard at the beginning and then having to back off
Paul

[Easy Rider]

......go out to Maggie Valley where curves are much longer 90-120 deg and much harder to hold your speed.


Say what ? I don't follow that at all.

Are you really saying that a wider sweeping curve is harder to negotiate than a short tight one ??

OK.....after thinking about that for a few seconds.......I think that might be true for a "new" Spyder rider because it is too easy to "over correct".

You need to look "through" the curve and not right in front and trust your body to make it go where it needs to go.
That will work better the more you practice it.

[WilderThomas]

Hi folks!
I've been enjoying the hell out of my F3-T. However, I am still pretty apprehensive to see what it can do on the curves and Twisties and take them rather slowly. I realize the "Nanny" mode would kick in to prevent a disaster and every circumstance is different but was hoping you could share your advice, suggestions, and experiences with the curves and Twisties.
Thanks!
SS

You're living so close, I have to wonder if you've heard of a road known as The Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina? 300 curves and twists in 11 or 12 miles I believe.

[greybeard]

Say what ? I don't follow that at all.

Are you really saying that a wider sweeping curve is harder to negotiate than a short tight one ??

OK.....after thinking about that for a few seconds.......I think that might be true for a "new" Spyder rider because it is too easy to "over correct".

You need to look "through" the curve and not right in front and trust your body to make it go where it needs to go.
That will work better the more you practice it.
I can see that you don't follow it . But after reading some of your other posts I see you don't follow much at all.

[SpyderSkeets]

You're living so close, I have to wonder if you've heard of a road known as The Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina? 300 curves and twists in 11 or 12 miles I believe.

Yes. I've heard of it. It's actually not that close for me. (About 9 hours away).
I did take a trip to Skyline Drive this weekend (about 1.5 hours away) and rode about a quarter of the way through before turning around. Very enjoyable ride and intend on doing the entire road probably this weekend when I plan better.

[ARNIE R]

Yes. I've heard of it. It's actually not that close for me. (About 9 hours away).
I did take a trip to Skyline Drive this weekend (about 1.5 hours away) and rode about a quarter of the way through before turning around. Very enjoyable ride and intend on doing the entire road probably this weekend when I plan better.

I like to go very early and attempt to go down to the Southern Waynesboro entrance once or so every year or two. Then Drive NB up to Front Royal to the end. Yes, you will need a full day set aside for this. But, it is worth it.

[CSI]

And do what exactly ?

AND......how dare you drag a thread back on topic !!! :roflblack:

What does the nanny do?

It depends on how much intervention it "thinks" it needs. It has done everything from cut spark to apply brakes as necessary.

[SpyderSkeets]

I like to go very early and attempt to go down to the Southern Waynesboro entrance once or so every year or two. Then Drive NB up to Front Royal to the end. Yes, you will need a full day set aside for this. But, it is worth it.

Arnie, your Spyder looks familiar. Were you by chance following a black Spyder on Rte 15 S heading towards Purcelville on Sunday?

[cruisinTX]

OK, I recently acquired a '14 RT Limited for my wife. I read a lot here and on various Facebook pages about handling and cornering and am continuing to read and learn. I also test drove a 998 in Altus, OK a few weeks ago for my first ride other than a parking lot. That ride revealed a true need to lean one's body out during corning. I'm good with that as I have over 430K miles on motorcycles where the lean out and/or butt off the seat helps keep good tread on the pavement when you properly use counter-steering to make the bike lean, (but that's a whole 'nuther topic).

I rode our RT home from Denton Saturday (420 miles) and experimented a lot using techniques I've been reading about. Here is something I have to ask, why would you put weight on the outside foot peg or floorboard when it's the inside you are wanting to keep down? This seems counter productive to me. I went out yesterday and the day before to test something I thought might work better. From the beginning, I have used upper body leaning to help stabilize the Spyder while going around a corner. I do this by using both forward and side pressure on the outside handlebar to turn the wheels AND help me lean out to the inside. It works great, but the last two days I threw in the foot pressure. I first tried it like everyone says they are doing it; pressure on the outside. I found it did not do much to help my lean effort and at the same time seemed to work against what I was trying to accomplish with the upper body lean. Then with the thought that keeping the inside down is the goal, I started putting pressure on the inside floorboard. OH WOW! That is way more effective in keeping the inside down than pushing down on the outside floorboard. Just sayin' that's what I learned by doing it for several miles of 35 to 45mph curves. Has anyone else tried this and how did it work for you?

[SpyderSkeets]

I think that putting pressure on the outside peg forces you to shift your body weight to the inside, no? By putting weight on the inside, while leaning to the inside seems counter productive.

[Easy Rider]

That ride revealed a true need to lean one's body out during corning.

when you properly use counter-steering to make the bike lean, (but that's a whole 'nuther topic).


You actually should lean your body to the INSIDE in a turn......as you said later in the post.

And there is no "counter-steering" with three wheels.

[cruisinTX]

You actually should lean your body to the INSIDE in a turn......as you said later in the post.

And there is no "counter-steering" with three wheels.

Yes, but you took that out of context; my reference to counter-steering was about bikes (two wheels) not Spyders. Here is the whole sentence where I clearly was referring to motorcycles, "I'm good with that as I have over 430K miles on motorcycles where the lean out and/or butt off the seat helps keep good tread on the pavement when you properly use counter-steering to make the bike lean, (but that's a whole 'nuther topic)."

[cruisinTX]

I think that putting pressure on the outside peg forces you to shift your body weight to the inside, no? By putting weight on the inside, while leaning to the inside seems counter productive.

I see what you're saying but ask yourself the same question I did. "why would you put downward pressure on the outside floorboard when the inside one is the one that needs to stay down?" For me, using my arms to move my body to the inside is very easy and it enhances the movement of the handles bars to steer the wheels in the proper direction. It also seemed perfectly natural for that body lean to allow me to put additional pressure on my inside foot. With the goal of the weight shift being to keep the inside down, that makes pressure on the outside counter-productive.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I see what you're saying but ask yourself the same question I did. "why would you put downward pressure on the outside floorboard when the inside one is the one that needs to stay down?" For me, using my arms to move my body to the inside is very easy and it enhances the movement of the handles bars to steer the wheels in the proper direction. It also seemed perfectly natural for that body lean to allow me to put additional pressure on my inside foot. With the goal of the weight shift being to keep the inside down, that makes pressure on the outside counter-productive.
It doesn't really matter which peg you put your weight on. What matters is shifting the center of gravity of the bike/rider combination toward the inside and forward. Pushing on the outside peg makes it easier to shift your body and the cg as your leg is bent less at the knee. But use whatever leg and arm combination that works best for you.

[bscofield84]

I've had my Spyder for about two months. Didn't take me long to push it to the limits. However, I am in Minnesota, and I do snowmobile. That how I've been looking at the curves and twisties. Ride it like ya stole it. I have been having fun on mine!

[bushrat]

It seems to me that some folks reading and commenting on or questioning the helpful hints discussed here are misunderstanding the term "downward pressure on outside foot" when it comes to cornering. There is no suggestion of transferring weight to the outside so as to increase pressure. Rather, the so-called "downward pressure" is, in reality, a "pushing off" or "away" from the outside peg or floorboard, so as to reduce the outboard weight and to help the upper body shift toward the inside of the turn. It is a combination of both pushing away from the outside peg while leaning forward over the inside of the bike that helps keep the inside wheel from lifting. Some folks also find that combining this with pressure from the inside knee against the gas tank, further helps to "pull" the upper body to the inside of the turn. Everyone pretty much pulls on the inside handle bar, but you can get stronger, very smooth turns and even better control while also pushing the outer bar away from you at the same time. It is slightly more difficult to do in a left turn, when you are pushing the throttle hand away while turning, but pushing on the outer bar while pulling on the inside will result in better, more controlled cornering. At least, that's my take. I make plenty of mistakes, but love practicing.... over and over again.

[asp125]

One thing that bears mentioning, is that the less your arms are involved in bracing and hanging on, the more they are able to steer the bike. So how do you achieve "light hands"? You apply the tips given in this thread, bracing against the tank with the inside knee, pressing down with the outside foot, and moving your body mass towards the inside of the bike.

[Jbuffalo]

I have over 50 years experience on motorcycles-which may be part of the problem. Due to some physical problems I bought a 2009 Spyder RS which I have had for two years. I have about 3000 miles of Spyder riding experience, I still have motorcycles. Following information from this site I have adjusted shocks and tire pressure and installed the recommended sway bar but still cannot say I am comfortable riding the Spyder. The problem is curves and low speed turns and the twitchy steering. I want to like the Spyder, I believe it is safer than a motorcycle due to visibility and stability. I like the power, and brakes. I have checked online for advice on riding the Spyder and have watched the videos. But I do not enjoy riding it. I find myself looking at trikes. I would like to keep this Spyder, it seems everyone adjusts to riding this machine but me. thanks

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have over 50 years experience on motorcycles-which may be part of the problem. Due to some physical problems I bought a 2009 Spyder RS which I have had for two years. I have about 3000 miles of Spyder riding experience, I still have motorcycles. Following information from this site I have adjusted shocks and tire pressure and installed the recommended sway bar but still cannot say I am comfortable riding the Spyder. The problem is curves and low speed turns and the twitchy steering. I want to like the Spyder, I believe it is safer than a motorcycle due to visibility and stability. I like the power, and brakes. I have checked online for advice on riding the Spyder and have watched the videos. But I do not enjoy riding it. I find myself looking at trikes. I would like to keep this Spyder, it seems everyone adjusts to riding this machine but me. thanks
:welcome: .... I started out with Spyders ( 8 yrs ago ) pretty much the same as you ..... Spyders aren't anything like a TWO wheel Mtc.....except they are called a motorcycle ....... You need to have a Light touch in the beginning annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd drive it like a CAR.... I have surprised a lot of kids on their Crotch Rockets ( in the twisties ) even some who I describe as Knee Scrapers :yikes: ( they are that good ) with what the Spyder ( RT ) can actually do, if you have mastered the technique for riding them ...... It's a big heavy machine and it will take time and many, many miles of saddletime to really feel comfortable driving it Hard ..... I'm not the best :roflblack:..... but I think I'm in the top 5% ......good luck, hang in there ................. Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

[Buckeye Bleau]

:welcome: .... I started out with Spyders ( 8 yrs ago ) pretty much the same as you ..... Spyders aren't anything like a TWO wheel Mtc.....except they are called a motorcycle ....... You need to have a Light touch in the beginning annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd drive it like a CAR.... I have surprised a lot of kids on their Crotch Rockets ( in the twisties ) even some who I describe as Knee Scrapers :yikes: ( they are that good ) with what the Spyder ( RT ) can actually do, if you have mastered the technique for riding them ...... It's a big heavy machine and it will take time and many, many miles of saddletime to really feel comfortable driving it Hard ..... I'm not the best :roflblack:..... but I think I'm in the top 5% ......good luck, hang in there ................. Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Mike, might I be so bold as to suggest that if you continue with this tone someone is going to think that you are a nice guy?:roflblack::roflblack:

Joe

[RiverCity45]

I recently rode some of the twistiest roads in my area (the Three Twisted Sisters ride), and was able to keep up easily with the two-wheelers in my group. They were skeptical at the outset, but the Spyder out-performed their expectations. I've never experienced this "twitchiness" some report. I wonder. Is is possible the twitchiness is a product of that old learned counter-steering behavior, then suddenly correcting the steering into the turn? Just a thought.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike, might I be so bold as to suggest that if you continue with this tone someone is going to think that you are a nice guy?:roflblack::roflblack:

Joe
Joe thanks :thumbup::thumbup: ... Unfortunately , in the past , I was somewhat harsh in my " verbiage " and this gave the wrong impression to many folks here :yikes: ...... I am trying to do a better job of saying what I feel, in a more respectful manner..... I think even you were surprised ( as a cabin mate ) what I'm like in Person ....... Mike :thumbup:

[Easy Rider]

it seems everyone adjusts to riding this machine but me. thanks

No you are not alone.

I'm having a LOT of trouble adjusting to the point of being comfortable too.
But I'm sticking with it until I get more miles on the clock (under 1K now).

I thought I was doing good until I had to accelerate rapidly to enter a freeway last week.
That wasn't a pleasant experience.

A good friend of mine strongly encouraged me to ride his GW trike before buying.
Now I wish I had.......and probably still will one of these days.

[Bob Denman]

Joe thanks :thumbup::thumbup: ... Unfortunately , in the past , I was somewhat harsh in my " verbiage " and this gave the wrong impression to many folks here :yikes: ...... I am trying to do a better job of saying what I feel, in a more respectful manner..... I think even you were surprised ( as a cabin mate ) what I'm like in Person ....... Mike :thumbup:
:D ...and you've been doing a GREAT job! :clap: :firstplace:

[CA Railwhale]

Peter, just by way of clarification, when you say “press on the outside foot more”, is that simply to help push your body weight to the inside better and sooner?

Pete

I've raced sailboats most of my adult life, so using my weight as movable ballast is second nature to me. I have only put about three thousand miles on my F3, but from the first time I cornered it I have pushed on the outside peg to shift my weight to the inside. Most of the time it's not necessary, but in a emergency, having that extra weight on the inside could save a life. Plus if something bad does happen on a corner (like oncoming traffic in your lane) you are already shifting your weight in the direction you would have to bail if you decided to abandon the bike. I hope I'm never in that situation, but good habits often save lives. It's easier to build good habits from the beginning than re-train bad ones.

[Peteoz]

Joe thanks :thumbup::thumbup: ... Unfortunately , in the past , I was somewhat harsh in my " verbiage " and this gave the wrong impression to many folks here :yikes: ...... I am trying to do a better job of saying what I feel, in a more respectful manner..... I think even you were surprised ( as a cabin mate ) what I'm like in Person ....... Mike :thumbup:

Well it’s not fooling me, you grumpy old bastard ;):roflblack:

Pete

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Well it’s not fooling me, you grumpy old bastard ;):roflblack:

Pete
:yikes: ... Thank you Pete , I knew I could count on you to tell it like it ..... WAS .....Mike :thumbup::thumbup:

[Jbuffalo]

No you are not alone.

I'm having a LOT of trouble adjusting to the point of being comfortable too.
But I'm sticking with it until I get more miles on the clock (under 1K now).

I thought I was doing good until I had to accelerate rapidly to enter a freeway last week.
That wasn't a pleasant experience.

A good friend of mine strongly encouraged me to ride his GW trike before buying.
Now I wish I had.......and probably still will one of these days.

Response: I am not giving up yet either. I have spent many hours on all the Spyder sites and reading road tests. It seems like the newer Spyders are easier to handle? thanks

[Easy Rider]

It seems like the newer Spyders are easier to handle? thanks

My very limited experience says NO.

I had an older RT twin cylinder and it seemed about the same handling wise.

[UtahPete]

:D ...and you've been doing a GREAT job! :clap: :firstplace:
:agree: great job Mike!

[UtahPete]

No you are not alone.I thought I was doing good until I had to accelerate rapidly to enter a freeway last week.
That wasn't a pleasant experience.
I don't understand.

[UtahPete]

It seems to me that some folks reading and commenting on or questioning the helpful hints discussed here are misunderstanding the term "downward pressure on outside foot" when it comes to cornering. There is no suggestion of transferring weight to the outside so as to increase pressure. Rather, the so-called "downward pressure" is, in reality, a "pushing off" or "away" from the outside peg or floorboard, so as to reduce the outboard weight and to help the upper body shift toward the inside of the turn. It is a combination of both pushing away from the outside peg while leaning forward over the inside of the bike that helps keep the inside wheel from lifting. Some folks also find that combining this with pressure from the inside knee against the gas tank, further helps to "pull" the upper body to the inside of the turn. Everyone pretty much pulls on the inside handle bar, but you can get stronger, very smooth turns and even better control while also pushing the outer bar away from you at the same time. It is slightly more difficult to do in a left turn, when you are pushing the throttle hand away while turning, but pushing on the outer bar while pulling on the inside will result in better, more controlled cornering. At least, that's my take. I make plenty of mistakes, but love practicing.... over and over again.
Excellent explanation. Thanks.

[Easy Rider]

I don't understand.

What do I need to explain ?

Accelerating INTO traffic that was moving at ~65 MPH suddenly threw me into some substantial wind currents that I wasn't prepared for.
I have still not adjusted to the "steering" required to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways.
I think I encountered both at the same time on the ramp.

[Peteoz]

What do I need to explain ?

Accelerating INTO traffic that was moving at ~65 MPH suddenly threw me into some substantial wind currents that I wasn't prepared for.
I have still not adjusted to the "steering" required to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways.
I think I encountered both at the same time on the ramp.

Yep.....that was what you needed to explain, Easy Rider :thumbup:

Pete

[UtahPete]

What do I need to explain ?

Accelerating INTO traffic that was moving at ~65 MPH suddenly threw me into some substantial wind currents that I wasn't prepared for.
I have still not adjusted to the "steering" required to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways.
I think I encountered both at the same time on the ramp.

I've not really experienced that. I have more confidence in any situation than I ever did on a two wheeler. Period.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

What do I need to explain ?

Accelerating INTO traffic that was moving at ~65 MPH suddenly threw me into some substantial wind currents that I wasn't prepared for.
I have still not adjusted to the "steering" required to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways.
I think I encountered both at the same time on the ramp.
If you're having to work to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways there is something wrong somewhere, either with how you're handling it or the steering of the Spyder. I find the Spyder is much more stable in cross winds than my Goldwing was. What you have to do is let your body move with the wind. The Spyder will keep tracking with not much sideways movement. Cross winds will push the Spyder sideways a bit whereas on a two wheeler the tires will track straight but the bike gets pushed over into leaning.

[Peteoz]

If you're having to work to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways there is something wrong somewhere, either with how you're handling it or the steering of the Spyder. I find the Spyder is much more stable in cross winds than my Goldwing was. What you have to do is let your body move with the wind. The Spyder will keep tracking with not much sideways movement. Cross winds will push the Spyder sideways a bit whereas on a two wheeler the tires will track straight but the bike gets pushed over into leaning.

Gee Idaho, if I let MY body move with the wind, I’d end up in the next state with the F3 still heading down the highway !:shocked::D:D

Pete

[mark4Jesus]

If you're having to work to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways there is something wrong somewhere, either with how you're handling it or the steering of the Spyder. I find the Spyder is much more stable in cross winds than my Goldwing was. What you have to do is let your body move with the wind. The Spyder will keep tracking with not much sideways movement. Cross winds will push the Spyder sideways a bit whereas on a two wheeler the tires will track straight but the bike gets pushed over into leaning.

I experienced this yesterday. It was very windy. We were going across the river on a two-lane bridge and experiencing lateral wind gusts. The wind gusts would move me some, but not the Spyder. My wife and I noticed that. On our Gold Wing and our Victory, the bike would have moved, but the wind had no affect on the Spyder. I just had to make sure that when my body moved, I did not induce an input to the handle bars.

[Easy Rider]

If you're having to work to keep the Spyder stable in gusty winds or on uneven roadways there is something wrong somewhere, either with how you're handling it or the steering of the Spyder.

I'm pretty sure it is the operator, at least most of it.

After riding on 2 wheels for a bit over 50 years, a really LOT of things become automatic.
You don't realize how much until you get on something that has an entirely different steering "geometry" and stability requirements........like a riding lawn mower with steering "bars" or a motorcycle with 3 wheels.

You CAN teach an old dog new tricks but if you first have to UN-learn some old tricks it becomes MUCH more difficult.
I think I need more miles on the Spyder......and to finally get rid of my Vulcan and stay off of 2 wheels during the transition.
Younger riders may be able to do both but I think it's pretty obvious that I can NOT.

[UtahPete]

You CAN teach an old dog new tricks but if you first have to UN-learn some old tricks it becomes MUCH more difficult.
I think I need more miles on the Spyder......and to finally get rid of my Vulcan and stay off of 2 wheels during the transition. Younger riders may be able to do both but I think it's pretty obvious that I can NOT.
Well said. Let us know how it goes.

[jerrydonna]

How long have you been riding.......a Spyder......on two wheels ??

Despite the protests of some here, the handling of the Spyder is VERY quick (twichy) and is entirely different than a 2 wheeled machine.

I came from about 50 years on 2 wheels......and now have about 700 miles on the Spyder.
Some days, my riding is smooth and steady; other days it feels like it wants to jump off the road every time I need to "steer".

I think time and experience are your friends.
I also think that no two people are exactly alike and you NEED to ride your own ride.

I suspect that some folks never get completely comfortable with the different feel.


Take a ride up to Skyline Drive. It is only 35mph, but, plenty of gentle curves to practice on. For further excitement, just run up and down RT 211 on either side of the Drive a few times. 35mph on the east side, but 45mph on the west side and plenty of tight turns. Plus, the scenery ain't too bad either........

Most of us have moved on from two wheel to this three wheel cruiser.
At 56 we have had our spyder 7 months, my Vulcan 900 still sits in the garage waiting to be started. I am the last of my brothers to leave two wheels. Harley trike, and a Goldwinger.
My wife and I just just spent two weeks in Maggie Valley with my harley brother and took all the best known routes they the mountains and valleys. We aren't speed freaks any longer and though I tried hard to relax and enjoy the rides. I was always at the end of day thanking back a few years when we did the same roads on two wheels and how really more relaxed I was.
Don't get me wrong the spyder 2012 rt limited did very well up against both brothers trikes (Honda-Harley) as they could not really keep up if I was leading and made it a point to out run them turn to turn. They both understood what I was feeling, tired arms....
They had moved to 3 wheels years (5), and had been telling me it wasn't the same...... And when shopping to to pick up a three wheeler they both loved the bike they rode but thought if I picked up a used Spyder I would once again get my WIFE back in the saddle also.

A week from now its going to be a little colder but we will back in Maggie Valley to meet one brother/wife to drive blue ridge and skyline drive from south up.

thanks for the great posts on this web site all together it helps

Jerry Donna

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'm pretty sure it is the operator, at least most of it.

Thanks for the response. I was concerned you might come back with some self-defensive argument that it has to be the bike and not the rider! Attitude is all important. When one is open to the idea that things are just different it is a lot easier to learn new ways. You are there!


After riding on 2 wheels for a bit over 50 years, a really LOT of things become automatic.
You don't realize how much until you get on something that has an entirely different steering "geometry" and stability requirements........like a riding lawn mower with steering "bars" or a motorcycle with 3 wheels.

Let me digress for a bit. My youngest brother bought a HD trike a few years ago. He said dealers told him that the riders who had the most difficult time making a transition were those who had spent years and years riding only on two wheels. In another case our local GW chapter director told of a couple guys who went to buy trikes, Hondas I think. The dealer suggested they slowly ride around the parking lot to get used to them. Both of them said they had ridden motorcycles for years and didn't need any freakin parking lot training! Promptly, before they got out of the parking lot one ran into a building wall and the other into a ditch!


You CAN teach an old dog new tricks but if you first have to UN-learn some old tricks it becomes MUCH more difficult.
I think I need more miles on the Spyder......and to finally get rid of my Vulcan and stay off of 2 wheels during the transition.
Younger riders may be able to do both but I think it's pretty obvious that I can NOT.
There very well may be more benefit to staying off the 2 wheels for a few weeks than any of us realizes! Some here have commented that they are able to switch back and forth and the proper habits automatically take over, but I don't know how long it took for them to get to that place or how long they stayed off the two wheels while learning the Spyder.

For me, the transition was short, about 200 - 500 miles, but there were two big reasons for that. I knew it would be different based on the comments above, and I had a fair amount of experience riding an ATV. But I also am somewhat adaptable. I took to my CPAP machine in two nights. My older brother fought it for 6 to 9 months. So maybe DNA plays a part, who knows? :dontknow: And for whatever impact it may have been, I was ready to leave two wheels and not go back. I might ride something like a Honda 90 around a field, but a Goldwing, no.

I don't recall what sort of experience you've had with ATVs, if you have mentioned it even. On a two wheeler your body and the bike are pretty much a single unit, moving together, leaning and going up and down as one. On an ATV your body is connected to the machine with flexible joints. As you corner you move your body one way or the other. As you ride over rocks and depressions on the trail the machine moves around under your body. Here's an idea. The next time you get on the Spyder think of it as a three wheel ATV, not a three wheel motorcycle. That may help your brain make the change! You know an ATV isn't the same as a two wheeler. Instill that thought in your head when you get on your Spyder.

In a few miles, or a few hundred miles at most, it will all be second nature.

[Easy Rider]

my Vulcan 900 still sits in the garage waiting to be started.

Sad. I have one too. Best bike I've ever owned, by a long shot.
Started mine and took a short ride a couple of days ago.
It goes up for sale next week.
Somebody is going to get a REALLY good deal.

[Easy Rider]

I don't recall what sort of experience you've had with ATVs, if you have mentioned it even.

None. Probably would have been helpful.
No snowmobile of jet ski either.

[ARtraveler]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by jerrydonna http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1312788#post1312788) my Vulcan 900 still sits in the garage waiting to be started.

Easy Rider:
"Sad. I have one too. Best bike I've ever owned, by a long shot.
Started mine and took a short ride a couple of days ago.
It goes up for sale next week.
Somebody is going to get a REALLY good deal."

RE: Vulcan 900's I recently bought another one. Traded the previous one off to get Linda her new 2011 :spyder2:. Missed two wheels. Got the hip fixed and now good to go again.

Per the above discussion: A whole different ride from the :spyder:. Done enough of the two different types, that I don't find any problems. I remember which has the clutch and handbrake and which does not--so far anyway. After five years, that first clutch shift was as smooth as butter. Some things, we just don't forget. And I am glad. :D:D

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

None. Probably would have been helpful.
No snowmobile of jet ski either.
As you know by now many of us on here had ATV, snowmobile, or jet ski experience before getting on a Spyder. So of course we said the Spyder handles a lot like an ATV. Now, in contrast, when you get a chance to ride an ATV for the first time you are going to say, after a few miles, "Wow, this thing handles a lot like a Spyder!" :roflblack:

[ncmedic]

I know that the rider's experience level plays a huge part, but just generally, how does the Spyder stack up to the GW or a Harley on the twisties? Is it about the same, a total dog, or somewhere in between?

Assume riders of equal experience on both machines.

Thanks!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I know that the rider's experience level plays a huge part, but just generally, how does the Spyder stack up to the GW or a Harley on the twisties? Is it about the same, a total dog, or somewhere in between?

Assume riders of equal experience on both machines.

Thanks!

I would say about the same, if not better!

[UtahPete]

I know that the rider's experience level plays a huge part, but just generally, how does the Spyder stack up to the GW or a Harley on the twisties? Is it about the same, a total dog, or somewhere in between? Assume riders of equal experience on both machines. Thanks!

Are you asking about Spyder vs those bikes in the trike configuration or the 2-wheel configuration?

[ncmedic]

That's great news, because my Wing was awesome in the twisties for a big bike.

The Harley, not so much. LOL

[asp125]

A Spyder would be hard pressed to keep up with this GW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37XLJNLpzxQ

[mark4Jesus]

A Spyder would be hard pressed to keep up with this GW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37XLJNLpzxQ

Dude knows how to ride his Wing!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Dude knows how to ride his Wing!
One of the pitches made for GW is its a road bike with sport handling. On something like Deals Gap I think Nanny is more likely to prevent running as fast as a Goldwing rather than the bike design, given comparable rider skill levels. After all, there is more rubber to road contact with a Spyder. I've had my front tires squeal on corners as they slide a bit. Don't think I would want a GW front tire to squeal from sliding! :gaah:A couple of months ago I was leading 3 or 4 GW 1800 riders on some curvey roads and left them quite a ways behind. I don't know if the first one of them was being cautious, just didn't like to push it, or didn't feel safe riding faster but after awhile I slowed way down so they could catch up. Since this was a GWRRA function I didn't think it would have been appropriate to ask. GWRRA stresses safety above all else, and says to ride at the speed the slowest rider is comfortable with.

[cruisinTX]

I know that the rider's experience level plays a huge part, but just generally, how does the Spyder stack up to the GW or a Harley on the twisties? Is it about the same, a total dog, or somewhere in between?

Assume riders of equal experience on both machines.

Thanks!

Let me start off saying this is with very limited experience on a Spyder, so my opinion could change as I get better on it. For now though, there is no way I can get through twisty roads on a Spyder even remotely as fast as I can on any one of my oilheads. Keep in mind though, I have over 435K miles on motorcycles compared to only about a 1000 on a Spyder. In another 5 or 6 thousand miles, I might have a totally different take on it.

[CarolinaSpyderRyder]

I've yet to meet a cruiser I can't keep up with or leave behind. 27,000 spider miles though, for about the first thousand, I didn't really know what my Spyder was actually capable of.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I've yet to meet a cruiser I can't keep up with or leave behind. 27,000 spider miles though, for about the first thousand, I didn't really know what my Spyder was actually capable of.
For me, limited guts and lack of daring keep me from pushing my Spyder to its full capability! :( I can't say I relish the sound of tires squealing on a turn!

[trucker1]

Some days you can ride it like you stole it. Others you need to ride like your paying for it. Ride what feels comfortable to you. Just don't over ride your limits. Pain hurts. Body parts are hard to replace. Some you can't. Just enjoy it. Ride safe my friend and ride often. Happy trails.

[cruisinTX]

I've yet to meet a cruiser I can't keep up with or leave behind. 27,000 spider miles though, for about the first thousand, I didn't really know what my Spyder was actually capable of.

Please don't take this as a challenge or in any way doubt of your abilities, but I truly would like for someone with your kind of experience to come ride with me through some twisty roads. I think if I saw it actually happen, I would feel very much better about a Spyder some day being as much fun for me as my two-wheelers are.

as just a side note: The BMW R1200C is no ordinary cruiser. I usually surprise most sport-tourers and sport bike owners with how well I can keep up with them when on my C.

[mark4Jesus]

One of the pitches made for GW is its a road bike with sport handling. On something like Deals Gap I think Nanny is more likely to prevent running as fast as a Goldwing rather than the bike design, given comparable rider skill levels. After all, there is more rubber to road contact with a Spyder. I've had my front tires squeal on corners as they slide a bit. Don't think I would want a GW front tire to squeal from sliding! :gaah:A couple of months ago I was leading 3 or 4 GW 1800 riders on some curvey roads and left them quite a ways behind. I don't know if the first one of them was being cautious, just didn't like to push it, or didn't feel safe riding faster but after awhile I slowed way down so they could catch up. Since this was a GWRRA function I didn't think it would have been appropriate to ask. GWRRA stresses safety above all else, and says to ride at the speed the slowest rider is comfortable with.

I've owned a couple of 1200 Gold Wings. They handle very well in the curves. Most folks that ride GW's aren't into riding like the guy in the video.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I've owned a couple of 1200 Gold Wings. They handle very well in the curves. Most folks that ride GW's aren't into riding like the guy in the video.
Yeah, the one time I scraped a peg with my 1800 it scared the crap out of me.

[trucker1]

Yes yellow wolf knows how to ride the gap. He use to take videos of riders on the dragon. Either from the front or the rear of that wing. You just had to keep up with him. He's a really cool guy. I think now he sets on the side and takes pictures. He could probably ride it in reverse if he had to.

[cmbspyderrss]

Whoa Nelly. That Yellow GW was insane but don't care how sticky your tires are or how good a rider you are when that steps out there is no saving it and hopefully no car is coming the other way when it does.

[Peter Aawen]

...... Either from the front or the rear of that wing. ..... He could probably ride it in reverse if he had to.

What, ride his GW thru there in reverse?!? That might be some skill, but with the reverse on GW's it'd surely take him most of a year! :shocked:









I reckon I'd like to see that!! :clap: :roflblack:

[UtahPete]

What, ride his GW thru there in reverse?!? That might be some skill, but with the reverse on GW's it'd surely take him most of a year! :shocked: I reckon I'd like to see that!! :clap: :roflblack:

Hmmm. what do you think would fail first? The battery or the starter motor?

[Peter Aawen]

The battery or the starter motor?! Hmmm, tough call that one!.... :dontknow:

I can just picture it tho.... a 'slow race' in reverse.... reeeeaaaallll sllllloooooooowwwww! :roflblack: :roflblack:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The battery or the starter motor?! Hmmm, tough call that one!.... :dontknow:

I can just picture it tho.... a 'slow race' in reverse.... reeeeaaaallll sllllloooooooowwwww! :roflblack: :roflblack:
I wonder if the 2018 'wing w/ the DCT will compete with the Spyder in reverse? It's a geared reverse. If it'll go more than 9 mph in reverse it'll beat our Spyders! :roflblack:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I wonder if the 2018 'wing w/ the DCT will compete with the Spyder in reverse? It's a geared reverse. If it'll go more than 9 mph in reverse it'll beat our Spyders! :roflblack: IMHO anything above .5 mph in reverse on any two wheeler is SUICIDE ,....... Mike :yikes:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

IMHO anything above .5 mph in reverse on any two wheeler is SUICIDE ,....... Mike :yikes:
Never let common sense interfere with speculation!!!! :roflblack: