Its Back!!!! Throttle body code

[jroberts650]

Went to fire up the spyder this morning for a ride to work and as soon as the key was turned I knew there was going to be problems. The engine and gas light were flashing together, fired it up and limp home came on. Checked the codes, P2620 and P1120.

Had it replaced in 2015 and have only put maybe 4,000 miles on it. I really hope I don't have to pay for this crap again. How many does it take before I won't have this problem?

[Bob Denman]

Since the bike doesn't get ridden a lot: perhaps the throttle bodies just need a real good cleaning. :dontknow:
Check with your dealer; good luck! :thumbup:

[jroberts650]

Since the bike doesn't get ridden a lot: perhaps the throttle bodies just need a real good cleaning. :dontknow:
Check with your dealer; good luck! :thumbup:

Dealer is closed today but I'm going to check a few things when I get home. It's done it a few times since the replacement. But after it sat about 5 minutes it started up and ran ok. Not sure why they have those little quirks. I'll check the connections and try to clear the codes and see what happens.

[Bob Denman]

My 2010 was due for it's third set of throttle bodies; when I traded it in... :banghead:

[jroberts650]

My 2010 was due for it's third set of throttle bodies; when I traded it in... :banghead:

:shocked:

[Bob Denman]

Sorry... :banghead:
The earliest of the "throttle by wire" bikes just seem to be plagued with this issue. :gaah:
By the time they got to the 2013 model year: it had pretty much been resolved.

[jroberts650]

Sorry... :banghead:
The earliest of the "throttle by wire" bikes just seem to be plagued with this issue. :gaah:
By the time they got to the 2013 model year: it had pretty much been resolved.

I mean what is the main issue? What was changed when the 2013's came out?

[Bandera]

Hopefully I get my bike back tomorrow from my second throttle body replacement. The last one was last year July (circa 13K miles on the last replacement). The dealer says they are in revision 4 on the throttle body's.

Michael

[Bob Denman]

I mean what is the main issue? What was changed when the 2013's came out?
I think (:shocked:!) that it has to do with the smooth opening and closing of them. They may have been tinkering with the material that was used as bushings... :dontknow:

[jroberts650]

Hopefully I get my bike back tomorrow from my second throttle body replacement. The last one was last year July (circa 13K miles on the last replacement). The dealer says they are in revision 4 on the throttle body's.

Michael

Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?

[Grandpot]

The latest Throttle Body part number is 420686292 (http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/p/can_am/420686292/throttle-body-assy). Do you know what the part numbers for your previous units were? I don't know exactly what the differences are.

[jroberts650]

The latest Throttle Body part number is 420686292 (http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/p/can_am/420686292/throttle-body-assy). Do you know what the part numbers for your previous units were? I don't know exactly what the differences are.

No I don't have that information anymore. It was back in 2015 so I'm not too sure if they have revised since then or not. I know one thing, this is getting old. I really don't want to start over paying for a newer one but if i have to, to keep my sanity, I will.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.

Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.

[jroberts650]

I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.

Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.

You don't understand, when these codes pop up it puts the machine in limp home mode. And when it's like that it either shuts off immediately shuts down or it will idle really rough for a few seconds and shut off. There is no running a few tanks through it with fuel cleaner. I run the highest octane available anyway, which is 93. And I use marine sta-bil every other tankful. So I don't think it's the fuel, it's the machine itself, either the throttlebody, TPS or one of the connectors for these parts.

[Bandera]

Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?

I was at the Deadwood 3 wheeler rally last year and had it replaced up there, just under $1200. And no, this one I am paying for also at the local dealer circa $1350.

The original Throttle body lasted 25k miles and the first replacement last year circa 13k. Lets see how long this second replacement lasts.

Michael

[Bandera]

Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?

The throttle body part number for last years replacement was 420686292. Will have to wait for my bike to get back to see what part number they put on my bike this time.

Michael

[jroberts650]

I was at the Deadwood 3 wheeler rally last year and had it replaced up there, just under $1200. And no, this one I am paying for also at the local dealer circa $1350.

The original Throttle body lasted 25k miles and the first replacement last year circa 13k. Lets see how long this second replacement lasts.

Michael

I think that's ridiculous that you have to pay for the replacement when they know it's been a problem for so long. They covered the part on mine but I had to foot the labor. Which I didn't agree with but seeing it was the first time plus it was out of warranty, I sucked it up and paid. But if the replacements are defective, they should cover everything. To me that would be a good customer service move to keep a small customer base happy.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The throttle body part number for last years replacement was 420686292. Will have to wait for my bike to get back to see what part number they put on my bike this time.
That's the current part # being shown for 2010 to 2012. The newest part # is 420686290 and 420686291 for the 998 engine in the 2013 RT and 2015 RSS. Is the 2010 RT engine the 990 or 998? If it's the 990 then then the -292 part is probably it.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You don't understand, when these codes pop up it puts the machine in limp home mode. And when it's like that it either shuts off immediately shuts down or it will idle really rough for a few seconds and shut off. There is no running a few tanks through it with fuel cleaner.
You're right. Now I remember when it happened to me my 2013 RT went into limp mode. Initially it wouldn't drop down to idle speed and I had trouble getting it into gear. I drove a few thousand feet and stopped to check the oil. I thought maybe it was low and was causing the shifting problem. When I restarted the limp home mode cleared and I was able to drive something like a hundred miles to the dealer. I never did get the TB code again. That's why I'm thinking you might be able to remedy the problem with fuel cleaner.

[youngers]

I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.

Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.

the Yamaha hualer carb cleaner , I wonder if they sprayed the carb injector area liberally cover the moving parts and cleaned then that way , or ran a container full through the gas tank ? { the service tech guy that is }

[jroberts650]

Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.

I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.

[Upcoaster]

Hello @jroberts650.
Just curious how this saga turned out for you.
I also have a 2010 I picked up last October. She was barely used with only 2700 miles on it. I put another 5300 on her this year and she's now in the shop for a new throttle body. Been researching this issue on this forum and am pretty sour'd on the Spyder after reading about how BRP isn't taking care of business by replacing a poorly made part with yet another poorly made part.
Since this post is 2 years old, I'd love to know how your ryde is faring.

I'm fairly surprised no one has ever organized a class action suit regarding this. It seems like it should have been an all-out recall but never reached that status either. I may just pursue this myself and will likely be polling this forum for interested potential class members.

TIA,
David



Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.

I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.

[Grandpot]

There a few things that need to be looked at before replacing the Throttle Body.

1. There is a service bulletin that has you clean the Butterfly Shaft pivot points. I've never had one stick, but I do it as a regular maintenance.
2. If you have a code stating the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) needs to be replaced, you can do it without replacing the entire Throttle Body. It is very simple to do and costs around $80. You will need a BUDS system to sync it in.
3. Wiring from the TPS to the ECU is direct. There are no additional splices or terminals. Your most likely culprit is the connection at the TPS. That's most likely why jroberts650's unit started working again after shaking some wires. Next time you get a failure, remove and then insert the connector at the TPS without touching anything else. If it works, you found the problem. DO NOT put any Electrical Grease on those connections. This is a very sensitive 5 volt signal. Silicon grease will mess it up. Silicon grease works great on 12V lighting circuits, but not well on a 5V analog device.

[pegasus1300]

Along with doing what Grandpot suggests you should also replace the MAP vacuum tubes with silicon tubes. The factory ones are prone to breaking down from heat and age. I got mine from NAPA.

[PMK]

In the past, the owner of this website frowned on class action lawsuit discussions in the posts / topics, so any plans you might have may to discuss this with others here may be swept away in short time.

Accomplish the proper maintenance steps, then if the BRP recommended steps cure your issue realize you have a maintenance problem, or possibly a dealer problem. If the throttle body has truly been installed with known defects that warrants additional concerns. My opinion is you are seeing a owner maintenance / dealer issue, and once correctly diagnosed and maintained you should be reliably riding again, provided you correctly maintain the vehicle.

[Upcoaster]

It happened again. My 2010 is throwing P1614 after only about 1200 miles since the throttle body was replaced with the 3rd generation part in September. I always run premium fuel and use Sea Foam or Lucas fuel treatment every 3rd tank or so. Aaaargh! This is the 3rd time this bike has stranded me 100+ miles from home. My confidence in this machine is completely shattered at this point.

Prior to owning a Spyder, I'd never even had need to become familiar with what a throttle body is/does let alone be staring at repair bills of $1,200 or more every thousand miles (or thereabouts). Given how much these things retail for, the Can Am Spyder should be the ultimate performance/luxury sport-touring platform. Not so much. I've owned 1 Suzuki, 2 Honda, 1 Kawasaki sport-touring class machines and NEVER had lame issues like this. Thought I was stepping up when graduating to a Spyder but it's really clear this was a downgrade.

Super disappointed. Shame on you Can-Am for not classifying this chronic issue as a full-on recall and doing right by Spyder owners. I really want to like this bike but I'm pretty much over it.