Relays

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

I am going to be doing some new wiring on my Spyder and have been looking for Normally Closed Relays.

I usually buy my relays from Eastern Beaver because he sells good stuff:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html

However, he does not carry a Normally Closed Relay.

After a lot of time on the 'net, lots of emails, too many phone calls, I found this:

https://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-92s11d22d-12/70185037/

And what is even better is that it can control two seperate lites seperately.

Now, I have not yet gotten this little guy here to actually try/use; I'll try to keep you posted on how it works.

Just some info for those nutty DIY'ers like me,

Jerry Baumchen

PS) Here is a sketch of what I am trying to do:

153674

[ARtraveler]

Gonna watch this one. Above my pay grade. :bowdown::bowdown:

[Chupaca]

:agree: not totally sure what the plan is....If they are that hard to find must not be used that much....:dontknow: like eastenbeaver.....:thumbup:

[Dray]

Unless I am not reading you right, you are looking for normally closed relays.
Why normally closed? Most general market relays are of the open contact variety
of a 30 amp rating and closed when you apply power to the coil of the relay. This in
turn applies power to one or 2 output terminals to switch something on. Normally
closed relays would require a constant power source to keep the relay open and break
the flow of power. Please keep us posted as to what you have going on. My curious Pea
brain would like to know.

Thanks in advance

Dray :yes::yes::yes::yes:

[JerryB]

Hi Dray,

Re: you are looking for normally closed relays. Why normally closed?

Gene De Laney ( Chupaca ) on here added these lites to his Spyder, they mount onto the sides of his frunk:

153676

Gene controls his with an On/Off switch mounted on his handlebars.

I am wanting to add one driving lite to each side of my Spyder at the front as Gene has done.

However, I do not want to have to use a On/Off switch; too easy IMO to forget resulting in a dead battery

1. Look at the sketch in my OP - I will come from the battery ( power from the battery, not from anything else that might upset the CanBus on the Spyder ) to an in-line 3 amp fuse ( protection for the lites ), then to a Normally Open Relay - This N O relay will be tripped by somewhere on my Spyder by power that only comes on with the key; probably grab this tripping power from the headlite wiring. This keeps the driving lites on when I am out riding around yet turn them off when I shut down the Spyder; which is what I want.

2. Then the power will go from the N O relay to the Normally Closed Relay ( I found one that is a single relay that can control two circuits individually ). Then I will bring two tripping wires from my existing turn signal circuits; these will then open either side of the N C relay, thereby interrupting the power to the driving lites and making them into additional turn signals.

Does that make sense to you?

If not, let me know & I'll give it another try.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) The human species can be very inventive. Plus, I like thinking outside of the box.

[stevencovert]

Hi Dray,

Re: you are looking for normally closed relays. Why normally closed?

Gene De Laney ( Chupaca ) on here added these lites to his Spyder, they mount onto the sides of his frunk:

153676

Gene controls his with an On/Off switch mounted on his handlebars.

I am wanting to add one driving lite to each side of my Spyder at the front as Gene has done.

However, I do not want to have to use a On/Off switch; too easy IMO to forget resulting in a dead battery

1. Look at the sketch in my OP - I will come from the battery ( power from the battery, not from anything else that might upset the CanBus on the Spyder ) to an in-line 3 amp fuse ( protection for the lites ), then to a Normally Open Relay - This N O relay will be tripped by somewhere on my Spyder by power that only comes on with the key; probably grab this tripping power from the headlite wiring. This keeps the driving lites on when I am out riding around yet turn them off when I shut down the Spyder; which is what I want.

2. Then the power will go from the N O relay to the Normally Closed Relay ( I found one that is a single relay that can control two circuits individually ). Then I will bring two tripping wires from my existing turn signal circuits; these will then open either side of the N C relay, thereby interrupting the power to the driving lites and making them into additional turn signals.

Does that make sense to you?

If not, let me know & I'll give it another try.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) The human species can be very inventive. Plus, I like thinking outside of the box.



So one light is on 100%, other blinks; or one light that also blinks. Great idea! Yes, tapping the blinker & headlight wires to drive the coils of a relay is super safe - I chose the relay version of the trailer wiring kit for the same reason.

[JerryB]

Hi Alaska,

Re: Above my pay grade.

It was for me also before I learned enough to be dangerous. :yikes:

I'll take a go at explaining relays to you. If anyone here thinks any of this is wrong, jump in as I am no expert.

About 20 yrs ago I put in a new garage door opener. The lite that was built-in on the garage door opener was a 60 W bulb & it only would lite up ( somewhat ) the front of the garage, the area from the motor/lite on the opener towards to garage door. The rest of the garage was quite dark. This 60 W lite bulb stays on for about 3 minutes whenever the garage door opens or closes.

I dug into the tech info ( I'm a ret'd Mech Engr ) for the garage door opener & started reading. It said to never replace the 60 W bulb with a bigger bulb because the circuit could not handle the additional load.

So I bought a relay & located it up above the sheetrock in my garage.

I brought 110 V power in from somewhere in the house; a constant power source.

I then added two large flood lites to the area of my garage that was not lit by the little 60 W bulb.

So now, I have 110 V power coming into my relay & going out to the two floodlites, when the relay is tripped & only when it is tripped.

Then I tapped into the 60 W lite bulb circuit ( a fairly simple soldering job ) and ran this wire to my relay; this is the tripping wire. It sends a very low voltage signal to the relay.

So now when I pull into my garage, the 60 W bulb lites up & my two floodlites also lite up; all for the 3 minutes that the garage door circuit tells them to.

Does this help explain what a relay does?

Jerry Baumchen

PS) What I call the 'tripping' wire some people will call a 'control' wire; different strokes for different folks.

[JerryB]

Hi Steve,

Re: So one light is on 100%, other blinks; or one light that also blinks.

No. Both driving lites are on when the key switch turns them on & they stay on while just driving down the road.

Then when either turn signal is turned on, the Normally Closed Relay for that lite becomes open, turning that driving lite off. It ( hopefully ) will blink On - Off, but just the opposite of the turn signals.

Does that make sense to you?

Re: Great idea!

Well, I like to think so. We'll just have to see how it works when I get everything installed; just waiting on the N C relay to arrive.

Jerry Baumchen

[JerryB]

Hi Gene,

Re: If they are that hard to find must not be used that much....

Actually, a single Normally Closed Relay is almost always a Normally Open Relay also. It just performs either duty depending upon how you connect the various wires to it.

I found a single relay that can control two seperate circuits, that was the hard item to find.

I could have bought two relays, one for each driving lite but that would be more bulk. I plan to put this Normally Closed Relay right behind my instrument panel, so I did the extra work to find a single unit that ( hopefully ) will control both driving lites.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it,

Jerry Baumchen

[Haze]

Hi Dray,

Re: you are looking for normally closed relays. Why normally closed?

Gene De Laney ( Chupaca ) on here added these lites to his Spyder, they mount onto the sides of his frunk:

153676

Gene controls his with an On/Off switch mounted on his handlebars.

I am wanting to add one driving lite to each side of my Spyder at the front as Gene has done.

However, I do not want to have to use a On/Off switch; too easy IMO to forget resulting in a dead battery

1. Look at the sketch in my OP - I will come from the battery ( power from the battery, not from anything else that might upset the CanBus on the Spyder ) to an in-line 3 amp fuse ( protection for the lites ), then to a Normally Open Relay - This N O relay will be tripped by somewhere on my Spyder by power that only comes on with the key; probably grab this tripping power from the headlite wiring. This keeps the driving lites on when I am out riding around yet turn them off when I shut down the Spyder; which is what I want.

2. Then the power will go from the N O relay to the Normally Closed Relay ( I found one that is a single relay that can control two circuits individually ). Then I will bring two tripping wires from my existing turn signal circuits; these will then open either side of the N C relay, thereby interrupting the power to the driving lites and making them into additional turn signals.

Does that make sense to you?

If not, let me know & I'll give it another try.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) The human species can be very inventive. Plus, I like thinking outside of the box.



Jerry,
I cobbled up a transistor circuit that does what you are attempting with relays.
I use it for running my saddle bag LED lights as running lights, brake lights and turn signals.
The LEDs are on all the time except when interrupted by the turn signal power.
Then the LEDs flash opposite of the turn signals.
Less than $5 in parts and very little space. Best of all it doesn't mess with the Canbus.
PM me and I will send you a copy of my circuit diagram. No I'm not an electrical designer, just a DIYer.
My circuit values are probably overkill but it works.
Cheers, David C.

[JerryB]

Hi David,

Re: Less than $5 in parts and very little space.

1. Building a circuit board is WAAAAYYYYYY over my pay grade.

2. It turns out that the relay supplier has taken mercy on me & are providing it for free.

Sometimes it helps to be a little charming when talking to women on the phone. :yes:

Jerry Baumchen

PS) Could you post up some info on how you designed it? That might help the other nutty DIY'ers on here.

PPS) Offers like this is why I really like this website.

[JerryB]

Hi Steve,

Re: So one light is on 100%, other blinks; or one light that also blinks.

I just realized what you were referring to with this.

As shown in the photo, Gene has two lites on each side of his frunk.

I am installing just one lite on each side of my frunk. Ergo, both lites on all the time with one getting interupted when the specific turn signal is activated.

Jerry Baumchen

[pitzerwm]

You guys are making this way to complex. You can get those cheap 12vDC relays that are single pole double throw: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-sets-40A-Waterproof-Relay-Automotive-Relays-12VDC-24VDC-5-copper-pins-1NO-1NC/272467940190?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BA NDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dfec2dea30f9b4 a10a1ce93a5b8eb0621%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt% 3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

I used these to make my fender LEDS flash as turn signals, here is the schematic:

153715

[JerryB]

Hi Bill,

Re: You can get . . .

As I mentioned in Post #9:

Actually, a single Normally Closed Relay is almost always a Normally Open Relay also. It just performs either duty depending upon how you connect the various wires to it.

I found a single relay that can control two seperate circuits, that was the hard item to find.

I know that I could easily buy two relays but I found a single relay to control both lites. That was the gist of my OP.

Jerry Baumchen

[BoilerAnimal]

Jerry, I like your idea! :bowdown: Pretty crafty, mister! :yes:

[Cabinkids]

I get most of my relays for my work applications through Grainger. They have them in any voltage and configuration you would want.

[JerryB]

Hi Bob,

Re: Pretty crafty, mister!

Let's not get ahead of ourselves. The mfr says it will do what I am wanting. When I get the relay & get it wired in, then I'll know if this idea is worth anything.

I'll try to keep this thread updated as things go along,

Jerry Baumchen

PS) From Post #5: I like thinking outside of the box.

Trying new things to see if they will work or not is what makes life interesting.

[JerryB]

Hi Cabinkids,

Re: I get most of my relays for my work applications through Grainger. They have them in any voltage and configuration you would want.

Many, many years ago, a good friend worked at the local Grainger outlet. That is how I began dealing with them.

I have bought a 'fair' amount of stuff from Grainger over the years.

I could not find the relay that I wanted at Grainger. They might have one like it but I could not find it & they could not put me onto one.

IMO Grainger is a very good company; no complaints with anything that I have ever bought from them.

Jerry Baumchen

[stevencovert]

You guys are making this way to complex. You can get those cheap 12vDC relays that are single pole double throw: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-sets-40A-Waterproof-Relay-Automotive-Relays-12VDC-24VDC-5-copper-pins-1NO-1NC/272467940190?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BA NDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dfec2dea30f9b4 a10a1ce93a5b8eb0621%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt% 3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

I used these to make my fender LEDS flash as turn signals, here is the schematic:

153715

:agree: Almost. This circuit will flash the LED when the turn signal is ON. I think he wants to have a marker light that is ON all the time, that flashes during the turn signal. Seems like moving the "hot to fender lights" on the right side to the N.C. position fixes it. The light is ON all the time, then turns OFF when the turn signal is active. It will just blink out of sync - which looks cool! At least I THINK that's what he wants :dontknow:. It's what I would do - more lights the merrier!

Steve

[JerryB]

Hi Steve,

Re: The light is ON all the time, then turns OFF when the turn signal is active. It will just blink out of sync - which looks cool! At least I THINK that's what he wants . It's what I would do

Yes, that is what I am planning doing.

Re: This circuit will flash the LED when the turn signal is ON.

I read his schematic the same way.

Jerry Baumchen

[pitzerwm]

:agree: Almost. This circuit will flash the LED when the turn signal is ON. I think he wants to have a marker light that is ON all the time, that flashes during the turn signal. Seems like moving the "hot to fender lights" on the right side to the N.C. position fixes it. The light is ON all the time, then turns OFF when the turn signal is active. It will just blink out of sync - which looks cool! At least I THINK that's what he wants :dontknow:. It's what I would do - more lights the merrier!

Steve


Look again, when the turn signal is not on, you have your fender lights on, (the hot lead goes thru the NC contact, from battery to fender) when the turn signal is activated, it is opposite/out of sync, but flashes the fender lights. You need one for each side.

[Haze]

I built this circuit for my LED Saddle bag lights.Should be easy to adapt to front driving or marker lights.
Use any keyed power wire as a source for your lights. Tie into the turn signal wires for controlling the flashers.
Very small. Just a transistor and a couple of resistors and diodes. Nothing critical or fancy.

Tail light, Brake light and Turn signal controller.
LED tail lights are on with the key. LEDs also act as Brake lights. Brake light over rides the tail lights. LED tail lights blink in opposition to the turn signals. Turn signals continue to blink when brake light is applied.
I made all my connections at my trailer wiring harness.

153735153736

[billybovine]

Interesting project JerryB.

If it was me. I would just get 3 SPDT relays and then just use the NC or NO terminal depending on what I wanted the relay to do. But it is very good to see things done a different way and with different components.

For a trigger voltage to turn the driving lights on. I would tend to go for a circuit controlled by the load shedding relay. That way the the lights don't come on until the engine starts. On a 08 GS an easy circuit to get to would be the front trunk accessory plug wire. I have not double checked but think it is ECM switched. Just a personal preference, does not matter either way.

When you get it done please post a video of how it works.

[JerryB]

Hi Billy,

Re: Interesting project JerryB.

Thanks; as mentioned, I sort of like thinking out of the box.

Re: For a trigger voltage to turn the driving lights on. I would tend to go for a circuit controlled by the load shedding relay. That way the the lights don't come on until the engine starts. On a 08 GS an easy circuit to get to would be the front trunk accessory plug wire. I have not double checked but think it is ECM switched. Just a personal preference, does not matter either way.

I'm not 'electrical' enough to know what 'load shedding' means but I do want to have the lites so that they come on well after the Spyder is started up, not just when the key is turned. I have not yet checked to see if the headlites work this way or not.

Re: On a 08 GS an easy circuit to get to would be the front trunk accessory plug wire.

Any thoughts on just where this wiring is located? I am planning on mounting the lites to the sides of the frunk so I could bring them up to behind the instrument panel together.

Re: When you get it done please post a video of how it works.

I will try to do so; I'll probably have my daughter help me.

And thanks for your comments,

Jerry Baumchen

PS) This has become an interesting thread. I really just started it to tell people about the unusual relay that I found.

[billybovine]

The front trunk accessory circuit is connected to the trunk power plug if you have that option. If you do not have that option the wires and rubber boot are zip tied to the frame on the left side behind the trunk. I checked the wiring diagram and it is controlled by the ECM so I would assume that it will turn on when the engine gets to idle speed for the first time after engine start.

If you do not have the optional power plug and do not plan to install it. I would use that circuit as your power source. It is used for nothing else. That would save you one relay and fuse in your circuit. It is protected by a 3 amp fuse in position 3 in your fuse box. Will guess that the fuse maybe already installed. I think 3 amp would be good enough for what your doing. But if not the wires are heavy enough to go to 5 amp fuse.

[JerryB]

Hi Billy,

Re: The front trunk accessory circuit is connected to the trunk power plug if you have that option.

I do not have a power plug in my frunk. It is just a big, empty cavity for throwing stuff into. :yes:

Re: If you do not have that option the wires and rubber boot are zip tied to the frame on the left side behind the trunk.

I plan on removing the frunk soon to mount the driving lights. I will look for this wiring.

Re: I would use that circuit as your power source. It is used for nothing else. That would save you one relay and fuse in your circuit.

I plan to use this circuit ( if I can find it ) only for the tripping wire to the Normally Open relay; not as the power source to the driving lites.

The power will come from the PC-8* that I plan on installing on the top ( hidden ) side of the black plastic piece that goes between the panels that the tailites are mounted on; '08 GS Spyder.

With the PC-8, I will run all power for any non-stock electrical thru it. It makes things neat & simple; I like things like that.

I am a person who really dislikes to see wiring that wanders all over the place and/or looks like a plate of spaghetti. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

And thanks for all the info; after all, that is what this site is all about.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) If this all comes off as I hope it does, I will do up a drawing of it & post it for anyone else to see & consider.

* http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Re: Relays for Driving Lites/Turn Signals

Just a little update; it is a project still being developed.

The Normally Closed relay that I got from Allied Electronics that I thought would control two circuits seperately would not do so. It would trip both circuits at the same time; not what I want to do.

So Allied Electronics ( bless their hearts ) sent me two single circuit Normally Closed relays.

Today I also have received my goodies from Eastern Beaver.

I have mounted the Normally Open relay & the two Normally Closed relays on a piece of plastic that will sit behind the instrument panel.

Here is a photo of it temporarily in place:

154076

In the center, at the top, is the Normally Open relay that I hope to switch/control from the wire(s) that Billy Bovine told me about; the ones to be found when I get the frunk removed.

On the sides are the two Normally Closed relays that will be switched/controlled from the turn signals.

The black spot in the center is a push/pull pin to hold the plastic panel to a flat area that is quite recessed behind the instument panel. The push/pull pin is the same one that holds a fair amount of the tupperware in place. A 5/16" hole makes this push/pull pin fit very nicely.

The plastic piece sort of 'sits' on two 'lugs' that are in this area. They did hold some of the turn signal wires but I just removed the wires from the two inside lugs ( there are two more farther out to the sides ) & zip tied them to the two outer lugs so they don't just flop around.

Now back to work,

Jerry Baumchen

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

OK, time to update this thread.

When I started this thread, it was merely to tell people about this fancy Normally Closed relay that I found. However, it sort of morphed into my installing some lites on my Spyder, so that is what this is now about.

My first goal was to install Driving Lites on the front of my Spyder.

My secondary goal was to have these Driving Lites also act as turn signal lites.

Well, the Driving Lites work as I wanted them to. Getting them to act as turn signal lites did not go so good.

Stripping the Spyder for work)

154438


154439


I bought a PC-8 and a Cooper-Bussman In-Line 30 amp Fuseholder from:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Fuseholders/fuseholders.html

The PC-8 allows me to have nothing attached to the battery terminals except the factory battery leads & the two 12 ga wires that feed the PC-8. Everything else comes off of the PC-8.

I had previously bought a 20 Amp Micro Relay without Tab ( this is a Normally Open relay ) from Eastern Beaver and know that their products are very good. This relay controls the Driving Lites.

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html

I then was given two Normally Closed ( SPDT ) relays by Allied Electronics:

https://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-9as5d52-12/70184952/

These would make the Driving Lites function with the turn signals. When the turn signals would be energized, these two relays would turn off the appropriate Driving Lite; as a turn signal would lite up, a Driving Lite would shut off.

I mounted the PC-8 under the Spyder on the right side. I had a local sheet metal shop make me a 2-piece bracket for mounting the PC-8, here are two photos of in it place:

154440


154441

This 2nd photo also shows how I brought the leads from the battery over to the PC-8. I found this plastic tubing that is the same as BRP uses for protecting wires. I got this plastic tubing up at the local Ace Hardware store.

There is a metal plate that comes from the chassis of the Spyder ( perpendicular to the main chassis ) that had two holes in it; this is what the sheet metal PC-8 bracket is bolted to.

During this effort, I also bought a new, longer lead for my Battery Tender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CEV00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The electrical leads for this come into the Unswitched contacts on the PC-8, that is so I can use the Battery Tender when the Spyder is turned off. All other leads on the PC-8 are attached to Switched contacts. I used a 7.5 amp fuse on the PC-8 for the Battery Tender leads. The other leads ( for my 3rd tail lite & the Driving Lites use 3 amp fuses ).

Here are the Driving Lites that I bought:

154442


I am now at the five photo limit so I'll post this and add to it.

Jerry Baumchen

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Some more photos of the Driving Lites that I added.

154443


154444


I then needed to find a power source for the Driving Lites. I am not that much of an electrical type of guy but a fellow S/L person saved my bacon. Ron Michiels ( who is billybovine on here ) told me where I could find a switchable lead, he said to look here:

154445


I undid the zip tie and there she was. This electrical lead is this, the F3 position in the fuses that are under the frunk:

154446


I pulled the cover off and found this:

154447

So I stuck a 3 amp fuse in and moved to the next step, which was splicing into this lead to use it as a switching wire for the Normally Open relay that will turn the Driving Lites on.

OK, at my five photo limit, so onto the next post.

Jerry Baumchen

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Here is the splice into this accessory lead at the F3 position:

154448

I just stripped back the insulation on the hot side of these two wires, wrapped everything in electrical tape, tied it up with zip ties & put it back into position. This accessory lead had a rubber boot on it for when you would connect it to lites, etc in the frunk. I just cut the boot off & had access to the wires:

154449


The next step was to locate/mount the three relays. I wanted all of them back, under the instrument panel. This is where things went poorly. After trying three locations back, under the instrument panel, the fourth time worked. However, I am quite certain that one of the first three attempts is what cost me the damaged ( I think ) Normally Closed relay.

Here is the Normally Open relay, mounted on a piece of plastic which is held in place by one of the push pins that holds a lot of the tupperware in place on Spyders:

154450

I just drilled a 5/16" hole in the plastic piece and in the flat plastic area that is back there.

I tried to mount the two Normally Closed relays on a couple of pieces of plastic in a similar manner but they would always get in the way of the instrument panel, which is quite thick. I am now convinced that one time while trying to put the instrument panel back into place, I damaged one of the Normally Closed relays; at least, I think this is what happened.

I then wired everything together & started her up. This is where things got really goofy. When I first fired her up the right side Driving Lite was on - I have no idea why. I spent about 2 - 2 1/2 hours trying everything that I could think of to get the Driving Lites to work with the turn signals. I could only get the left side Driving Lite to work with the left turn signal. The right side Driving Lite would do all sorts of crazy things. I decided that this was now above my knowledge, so I removed both Normally Closed relays & just wired things up so the Driving Lites work properly. By using the F3 position in the fuse panel, the Driving Lites come on when the key is turned. They go off when the key is turned off; but they wait about 10 seconds after the key is turned off, then they turn off. This was a little unnerving at first but it is easy to get used to.

Here are the Driving Lites in operation:

154451


While I had the Spyder tore down I decided to do some other stuff to it. My coolant bottle was low so I added more coolant. One side of my brake fluid reservoir was low ( the one that always seem to be the one that goes low ), so I added more brake fluid. I also changed out the vacumn hoses with the silicon ones. Gene De Lany ( Chupaca on here ) was very helpful with this effort.

154452


In conclusion, my Driving Lites work like I wanted them to ( I just need to get them aimed properly ). I could not get the Driving Lites to function with the turn signals; this is not that important to me. After spending a fair amount of time giving it a lot of thought, I am thinking that the right side Normally Closed relay became damaged while trying to find a good location for it. I might just try to find a couple of smaller-in-size Normally Closed relays and try it again; all of the wiring is still there.

I also want to thank David Craft ( Haze on here ). Here sent me his schematic on how he built his own Normally Closed relays. I found it very interesting but I am simply not that good with this whole 'electricity' thing. I rather like to just buy what will do the job and go forward.

If anyone has any questions, just jump in and ask; I'll do my best to answer,

Jerry Baumchen

[Peteoz]

Just as an aside, the best investment I have made for my Spyder F3 electronics so far is the $300 Neutrino box from Tricled. Wired from the battery it contains resettable circuit breakers, relays, trickle charging connection etc etc. I have used it for my Lamonster USB charge port, my Wolo air horn, my driving lights (triggered from my low beams, but set to be operable only when there is no current from my low beams....low beam wiring on the Aussie F3 is much easier to access than high beam wiring), my Daylong heated seats, my trickle charger. The configuration (via smartphone) of the trigger conditions include time, temperature, load etc etc.

I know it’s a bit expensive, but it has well and truly paid for itself in my eyes:thumbup:

https://www.tricledusa.com/_p/prd1/4560395661/product/neutrino-smartphone-controlled-power-distribution

Pete

[JerryB]

Hi Pete,

Re: the best investment I have made

Re: I know it’s a bit expensive

I'm with you. Buy the good stuff and it will work.

Although, 'a bit expensive' is very subjective. :yes::yes::yes:

I like what my PC-8 does; probably because I doubt that I will be adding much more to the Spyder.

But then again, who knows for sure. :shocked:

Jerry Baumchen

[Peteoz]

Hi Pete,
Although, 'a bit expensive' is very subjective. :yes::yes::yes:

I like what my PC-8 does; probably because I doubt that I will be adding much more to the Spyder.

But then again, who knows for sure. :shocked:

Jerry Baumchen

Yep, yep, yep, Jerry.....you are absolutely correct. You’ve got to find what works best for your particular situation. Since I’m such a klutz with electronics, forking out the extra dollars and not having to worry about relays, fuses, circuit breakers and connections was a no brainer for me. :2thumbs:.......thanks for “I doubt that I will be adding much more to the Spyder”. You gave me a good laugh :D:D

Pete

[CBXBob]

Automotive Bosch cube type relays at most any parts store are available with 5 pins. The switched power input goes to the NC pin with power off on the coil and thru the NO contact with power on the coil.

[Haze]

Jerry,
Your hard work paid off with a very clean
installation. I really like the lights and the
mounting of the relays.
Cheers, David C.

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Some call it hard-headedness, some call it tenacity; I prefer the latter. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

I got the Driving Lites to work as turn signals. :yes::yes::yes:

In Post #30 I mentioned how I could get the left side Driving Lite to work as a turn signal but not the right side. I thought that I had damaged the relay for the right side.

I was convinced that I could make them work as turn signals. So I went to Google & found these:

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Mini-Change-Over-Relay-5RLU7?cm_sp=-_--_-AZIDPBR_6056-9431-2&cm_vc=AZIDPBR_6056-9431-2&req=

In Post #16 it was mentioned about going to Grainger. I did not since Allied Electronic had provided the two relays for free.

One major problem with the previous relays is that they were just too large for the cavity behind the instrument panel. And the contacts were oriented towards the instrument panel, taking up even more room.

I mounted the two new Normally Closed relays here ( know as SPDT relays; Single Pole Double Throw ), they are to the left & right of the Normally Open relay:

154692

All three relays are mounted on 0.060" high impact polystyrene. It is easy to work with, to cut with heavy duty scissors, and easy to drill holes into.

I wired everything so that all the parts are modular. If one item should crap out, I can remove it without having to cut any wires. Just buy a new item & install it.

Here is a video of the Driving Lites functioning as turn signals:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O803mRUe9Wo&feature=youtu.be

Everything works just as I was wanting it to do.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) Here is a photo of the 10 gage stainless steel washers that I had made to reinforce the inside of the frunk:

154693

I have no idea on the strength of the 'plastic' that the frunk is built of so I wanted to do something to ensure that the Driving Lites do not tear out.

PPS) My daughter made that entire video on her iPhone. This new tech world is leaving me behind.

[CBXBob]

Amazon RLS125 12-vdc . One relay will do both. It i a single pole double throw relay meaning it has both NC and NO contacts you want to use.

















[/QUOTE]

[JerryB]

Hi Bob,

Re: Amazon RLS125 12-vdc

Yup, those are SPDT relays. They are $4.92 each; I paid $4.35 for two from Grainger.

Jerry Baumchen

[pitzerwm]

IMO you have a bullet proof setup, but if you had went with my suggestion in #13, you would have saved a lot of time & effort and maybe money:yes::yes::yes::yes:

[JerryB]

Hi Bill,

Re: you would have saved a lot of time & effort and maybe money

That is a 'maybe.'

The first Normally Closed ( SPDT ) relays were free.

I have very little interest in building my own relays. As stated before, I prefer to buy the necessary parts & get them to working.

Your link in Post #13 was for five relays; I only needed two to make the Driving Lites work as turn signals.

Jerry Baumchen

[pitzerwm]

Jerry you misread, there is only 1 relay per side.