Let's keep it cool

[AMTJIM]

So I have noticed a few things in regards to engine temp sensitivity. As you roll up behind larger vehicles like a semi or bus...you can see the temp rise. Also runs noticeably warmer with a tailwind or cross with from the left. In the summer, which walked in with it's Louisville Slugger, it runs hot. What about twin radiators...what about buying another radiator and mounting it with cross plumbing in the left side air scoop. Possibly relocating or like many vehicles, mounting the oil cooler directly to the radiator.

[bone crusher]

So I have noticed a few things in regards to engine temp sensitivity. As you roll up behind larger vehicles like a semi or bus...you can see the temp rise. Also runs noticeably warmer with a tailwind or cross with from the left. In the summer, which walked in with it's Louisville Slugger, it runs hot. What about twin radiators...what about buying another radiator and mounting it with cross plumbing in the left side air scoop. Possibly relocating or like many vehicles, mounting the oil cooler directly to the radiator.

The bike is fine...what's the problem? It doesn't overheat and the heat doesn't affect performance...

[Roaddog2]

The bike is fine...what's the problem? It doesn't overheat and the heat doesn't affect performance...:agree:but AMTJIM does does live in a area that does get superheated compared to some of us :ani29:

[draboo]

I d try Lamonts suggestion about removing the undercarriage skid pan thingys. I m gonna do that before the LA trip.;)

[irish2themax]

skid pan thingys.

I love it when you guys use all that technical jargon!!

[BajaRon]

I don't know what Lamont needs with more cooling. It would take a typhoon at his back to give him a tail-wind.

The cheapest and easiest protection against high temps is full synthetic oil. The first problem with overheating is lubrication breakdown and damage to the oil.

Full synthetic can take a lot more heat for a longer period of time before it starts to give up.

[bone crusher]

:agree:but AMTJIM does does live in a area that does get superheated compared to some of us :ani29:

I don't know about that...here in the DC area, we get summer highs in the upper 90s with HIGH humidity...Arizona has more 'heat' but the humidity is much, much lower...I'd think that the humidity has more of a corrosive effect on a bike and its performance as opposed to just heat. I'd take dry heat any day over the crap we have here!

[Smylinacha]

I don't know about that...here in the DC area, we get summer highs in the upper 90s with HIGH humidity...Arizona has more 'heat' but the humidity is much, much lower...I'd think that the humidity has more of a corrosive effect on a bike and its performance as opposed to just heat. I'd take dry heat any day over the crap we have here!

We get that nasty humidity here too and it's very corrosive on ME - I HATE IT

[NancysToy]

I don't know what Lamont needs with more cooling. It would take a typhoon at his back to give him a tail-wind.

The cheapest and easiest protection against high temps is full synthetic oil. The first problem with overheating is lubrication breakdown and damage to the oil.

Full synthetic can take a lot more heat for a longer period of time before it starts to give up.
:agree: BRP, are you listening? Junk that blended stuff.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

[garganos]

Remove the lower deflectors on the RH side panel. This will allow more air flow through the radiators and allow the bike to run cooler. The only draw back is your RH foot may get a little warmer. This comes direct from BRP.

[bjt]

Remove the lower deflectors on the RH side panel. This will allow more air flow through the radiators and allow the bike to run cooler. The only draw back is your RH foot may get a little warmer. This comes direct from BRP.

I rode for two weeks without the right side panel on at all. Saying that your right foot may get a little warmer is a huge understatement. While riding at 40 and 50 degree temps, my right foot got warm. I can't imagine riding riding the Spyder in 90 degree temps without that deflector in. Bring your BBQ sauce 'cuz your foot will be cooked. :D

[bone crusher]

We get that nasty humidity here too and it's very corrosive on ME - I HATE IT

Yup...the humidity is far more uncomfortable than the actual temperature...both in the winter and the summer...the humidity cuts through you, the ambient temperature doesn't...

Just like when you use an ice/heat pack...you put in on top of a moist towel...reason??...so that the moisture helps to penetrate the heat/cold....this is seldom desirable for your whole body...think of sitting in a steam room...10-15 min. and no more! Where we live, it's like being in one whenever you're outside...it's very fatiguing to the body and quite corrosive to anything mechanical...if you live at the shore you're even worse off as the salt air does even more wonders to your vehicles...

[Blinc]

I live in Florida and its in the high 90's right now. I can't wear my Croc's right now because of the hot air coming out of the engine by the feet, lol, but I did just put in the Engine Ice coolant to replace the factory coolant. It supposed to cool thing off quite a bit. I think with a stock engine setup it should, but I also run the racing air system, so I have not noticed a significant difference in heat reduction yet. I will be putting some heat shielding material in select locatons this weekend and see how that works out.

[bone crusher]

I live in Florida and its in the high 90's right now. I can't wear my Croc's right now because of the hot air coming out of the engine by the feet, lol, but I did just put in the Engine Ice coolant to replace the factory coolant. It supposed to cool thing off quite a bit. I think with a stock engine setup it should, but I also run the racing air system, so I have not noticed a significant difference in heat reduction yet. I will be putting some heat shielding material in select locatons this weekend and see how that works out.

Easier solution...just take a break, jump in the water, and get back on the bike...this should cool you, at least for a while...ahhhh, Florida!

[M2Wild]

I don't know about that...here in the DC area, we get summer highs in the upper 90s with HIGH humidity...Arizona has more 'heat' but the humidity is much, much lower...I'd think that the humidity has more of a corrosive effect on a bike and its performance as opposed to just heat. I'd take dry heat any day over the crap we have here!

Humidity only affects ones ability to cool with sweat, don't think it has anything to do with Spyder's cooling. Only condensed humidity can corrode, not when its still in gaseous form. IMO

[Cliff-Co.]

Hey !!:lecturef_smilie: all ya Spyder MODS-FABRICATION dude's:2thumbs: , how's about instead of install & remove Spyder splash guards to regulate engine temps> :2excited: fabricate something like shutters on a bigg rigg radiators, (or venitian blinds like affair ) to fit in original splash pans bolt holes, :hun: with choke cables, to open & or close both sides, or :firstplace: one side, , to regulatr engine temps??:2thumbs: , & keep it around $200, & I bet al:pray: Spyder owners will buy !!, & even B.R.P, will listen up!!:ohyea: p.s., & make & give me a freebee, & I'll wave all $$$ royalties!! :lecturef_smilie: :thumbup:

[Donzo]

I think the answer to a cooler operating temp. (if needed) is in the fan - have it turn on sooner or have a higher CF draw through the radiator with a more aggressive blade or fan motor......

[bone crusher]

Humidity only affects ones ability to cool with sweat, don't think it has anything to do with Spyder's cooling. Only condensed humidity can corrode, not when its still in gaseous form. IMO

Humidity interferes with the body's ability to cool...that's the problem...as far as the Spyder goes, additional humidity leads to more corrosion as there will be a different dew point (in the morning) , more condensation everywhere, simply more fluid in the air, etc...I'd like to see a comparison of corrosion of like vehicles in different parts of the country...besides salt corrosion from being at the shore, I'd be willing to bet that high humidity areas have more corrosion and electrical problems...

As far as a direct affect on the bike's ability to cool, probably not a factor...

[SpyderDeb]

I rode for two weeks without the right side panel on at all. Saying that your right foot may get a little warmer is a huge understatement. While riding at 40 and 50 degree temps, my right foot got warm. I can't imagine riding riding the Spyder in 90 degree temps without that deflector in. Bring your BBQ sauce 'cuz your foot will be cooked. :D

:clap:Yep - they say it's all about the sauce!! :roflblack:

[ataDude]

I rode for two weeks without the right side panel on at all. Saying that your right foot may get a little warmer is a huge understatement. While riding at 40 and 50 degree temps, my right foot got warm. I can't imagine riding riding the Spyder in 90 degree temps without that deflector in. Bring your BBQ sauce 'cuz your foot will be cooked. :D

You guys :dontknow:. Ride a Valkyrie for a while... the large radiator fan blows straight back and under the seat... in addition to heating your legs, other things get warm. That's what you call hot. Same with an ST-1300.

Reminds me of a Christmas song: "... chestnuts roasting o're an open firrrrrrrrrrrre.....". :ohyea: Did you notice how nice that sounded? On tune... not sharp or flat.
.

[aubierules]

We get that nasty humidity here too and it's very corrosive on ME - I HATE IT
:agree: we have it in south alabama too!!!

[aubierules]

Humidity only affects ones ability to cool with sweat, don't think it has anything to do with Spyder's cooling. Only condensed humidity can corrode, not when its still in gaseous form. IMO
:agree::agree:

[Lamonster]

You guys :dontknow:. Ride a Valkyrie for a while... the large radiator fan blows straight back and under the seat... in addition to heating your legs, other things get warm. That's what you call hot. Same with an ST-1300.

Reminds me of a Christmas song: "... chestnuts roasting o're an open firrrrrrrrrrrre.....". :ohyea: Did you notice how nice that sounded? On tune... not sharp or flat.
.
:agree:
but it could be worst :doorag:
http://www.bigbikeriders.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=157

[Extracool]

Lamonte, that was really a funny responce about the valkarie heat,loved it:roflblack:

[prodrag69]

use a product by deep purple, it goes in your radiator and lowers temp. by up to 20 deg. i use it and it lowered mine by 14deg.

[BajaRon]

use a product by deep purple, it goes in your radiator and lowers temp. by up to 20 deg. i use it and it lowered mine by 14deg.

Anti-Freeze reduces water's abilty to transfer heat. Kind of locks heat into the water longer so it can build to a higher temp.

There are some products out there that claim to give the solution a better (quicker) heat transfer rate.

It's like a lot of things. Some say it works, others say it don't. If it doesn't have negative traits in other areas I think I'd give it a try if I had heating problems.

[BajaRon]

Here is some interesting reading on the Coolant Additive subject. A bit lengthy but a great comparison for our purposes. Certainly something to think about on our CA trip.

No time to find out you SHOULD have done something BEFORE you left home!

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives/index.html

[prodrag69]

ya the product royal purple will tell you to take out the antifreeze and replace it with water and there product. I know from experience that it works.... i tried a nuther product because it was in stock and it did ok, but not as well as the royal purple did, so i drained it and swiched.... try it it works....:spyder2::spyder2::chat:

[carbolic]

I had a situation last weekend where the air temp reached only 87 degrees- Rode down the HW and then got stopped in a 20 min line of stop and go. The engine temp slowly increased sitting there, idling until I got a warning light and "limp mode" engaged. I was able to get it into a parking lot under cover and in about 5 minutes, it was fine. I know the Spyder likes it hot but would an aftermarket oil cooler help? What are others doing in addition to what is discussed above? It would seem that the extensive cowlings reduce aire flow around the engine and when running and not moving in warm weather, it just cranks up...

[Firefly]

ya the product royal purple will tell you to take out the antifreeze and replace it with water and there product. I know from experience that it works.... i tried a nuther product because it was in stock and it did ok, but not as well as the royal purple did, so i drained it and swiched.... try it it works....:spyder2::spyder2::chat:


Did you drain all your standard radiator fluid and go with 50/50 water and royal purple ice?

[DragonSpyder]

My engine runs much cooler since removing the airbox. Much more airflow around the engine....

[jeuchler]

...Our discussion from about fifteen months ago (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4811&highlight=cooling).

Edit:

And another discussion from a year ago (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5571&highlight=cooling).

Related: Pipe wrap discussion (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5573&highlight=pipe+wrap).

[bjt]

I had a situation last weekend where the air temp reached only 87 degrees- Rode down the HW and then got stopped in a 20 min line of stop and go. The engine temp slowly increased sitting there, idling until I got a warning light and "limp mode" engaged. I was able to get it into a parking lot under cover and in about 5 minutes, it was fine. I know the Spyder likes it hot but would an aftermarket oil cooler help? What are others doing in addition to what is discussed above? It would seem that the extensive cowlings reduce aire flow around the engine and when running and not moving in warm weather, it just cranks up...

I'd check to be sure the radiator fan was running. I've been in stop in go traffic in 90° + temps and haven't gone into limp mode. The temp gauge gets up to 5 or 6 bars, the fan kicks on and either keeps the temp there or lowers the temp.

[carbolic]

I'll try that- I would say that was very helpful"!

[SpyderGirl]

I had a situation last weekend where the air temp reached only 87 degrees- Rode down the HW and then got stopped in a 20 min line of stop and go. The engine temp slowly increased sitting there, idling until I got a warning light and "limp mode" engaged. I was able to get it into a parking lot under cover and in about 5 minutes, it was fine. I know the Spyder likes it hot but would an aftermarket oil cooler help? What are others doing in addition to what is discussed above? It would seem that the extensive cowlings reduce aire flow around the engine and when running and not moving in warm weather, it just cranks up...

I had the same thing happen to me in similar conditions. The temp was about 80 degrees, I was on a hill in stop and go, and it was about 15 - 20 minutes of it. The Spyder's temp gauge went all the way to the top and I got a message telling me to basically turn it off. Then I got stranded on the side of the road for 30 minutes while it cooled down and wouldn't even show the display when the key was turned.

I have been running full synthetic since the 3K oil change. My thoughts on the situtation has been as follows:

1.) What about adding Water Wetter to the radiator?
2.) Can the thermostat be changed out to turn the fan on at a lower temp?
3.) Is the fan relay getting hot and shorting it out and does changing this relay out actually help in the long run?
4.) What about a fan override switch for manual control when these situations occur and the temp is hot outside or your stuck in stop and go traffic?

Any thoughts on these things?

[NancysToy]

1.) What about adding Water Wetter to the radiator?

No experience with this, but I doubt it would help all that much.

2.) Can the thermostat be changed out to turn the fan on at a lower temp?

The thermostat doesn't control the fan, the ECM (computer) does. It would be nice if BRP would provide a programming change.

3.) Is the fan relay getting hot and shorting it out and does changing this relay out actually help in the long run?

If your fan is running, the relay is not the problem. If the fan isn't running, it is a possible cause.

4.) What about a fan override switch for manual control when these situations occur and the temp is hot outside or your stuck in stop and go traffic?

There was talk of this in another thread recently, but it sounds trickier than it seems. Haven't heard yet if anyone has actually found a viable solution.

-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

[rleathen]

My project for this upcomming week is to work on a manual switch override for the fan. My plan is to run a 15A fused 12 volt line through a switch right to the 12 volt power line going to the fan. I plan on tapping into the fan 12 volt power line AFTER the relay thus in essence having the manual switch running in parallel to the relay.

[NancysToy]

My project for this upcomming week is to work on a manual switch override for the fan. My plan is to run a 15A fused 12 volt line through a switch right to the 12 volt power line going to the fan. I plan on tapping into the fan 12 volt power line AFTER the relay thus in essence having the manual switch running in parallel to the relay.
This appears that it should work. The fan is switched via the 12V side, although the relay coil is switch via the ground. I doubt from the diagram whether you would have any difficulty providing a secondary power source if, but if there are doubts, I'd tap off the fan fuse for power, even at the relay itself, truly paralleling the relay with your switch. BTW, make sure the switch is sufficiently rated. Let us know how this works out.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

[ataDude]

This appears that it should work. The fan is switched via the 12V side, although the relay coil is switch via the ground. I doubt from the diagram whether you would have any difficulty providing a secondary power source if, but if there are doubts, I'd tap off the fan fuse for power, even at the relay itself, truly paralleling the relay with your switch. BTW, make sure the switch is sufficiently rated. Let us know how this works out.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

Perhaps a diode in the original lines to keep the new current from backtracking to the processor?

[rleathen]

ataDude no diode should be necessary since the 12 volt power that goes to the fan through the relay does not come from the computer but directly from a 12 volt power source/bus wire etc. The signal that controls the relay however DOES go through the computer. Since my switch and my 12 volt power is coming from the same 12 volt power that the relay power comes from (not the relay control signal) there should be no problem with putting a switch in parallel with the relay. Monday is the day I plan on attempting my mod (I had to wait to receive the posi-tap connectors (to allow me to connect into the power line between the relay and the fan).

I will let everybody know how it works.

[carbolic]

Thanks for the input- I must say SpyderGirl, you are one to think out of the box and thanks very much for the perspective. I am a newbie on the mod end of things, especially those in the electrical arena.

[carbolic]

ataDude no diode should be necessary since the 12 volt power that goes to the fan through the relay does not come from the computer but directly from a 12 volt power source/bus wire etc. The signal that controls the relay however DOES go through the computer. Since my switch and my 12 volt power is coming from the same 12 volt power that the relay power comes from (not the relay control signal) there should be no problem with putting a switch in parallel with the relay. Monday is the day I plan on attempting my mod (I had to wait to receive the posi-tap connectors (to allow me to connect into the power line between the relay and the fan).

I will let everybody know how it works.

Even if it works, there is little chance I am going to try to replicate your efforts. At least not without the fire department on site!:chill:

[ataDude]

ataDude no diode should be necessary since the 12 volt power that goes to the fan through the relay does not come from the computer but directly from a 12 volt power source/bus wire etc. The signal that controls the relay however DOES go through the computer. Since my switch and my 12 volt power is coming from the same 12 volt power that the relay power comes from (not the relay control signal) there should be no problem with putting a switch in parallel with the relay. Monday is the day I plan on attempting my mod (I had to wait to receive the posi-tap connectors (to allow me to connect into the power line between the relay and the fan).

I will let everybody know how it works.

Gotcha. Thanks. I've been too lazy to look at the schematics because I have one of the no-heat-problem roadsters. :yikes:

.

[ataDude]

...(I had to wait to receive the posi-tap connectors (to allow me to connect into the power line between the relay and the fan)...


+1 on all of the Posi products. I ordered several hundred in three different styles/sizes (probably enough to last me the rest of my life) a few months back because they are hard to find.

.