SPARK PLUGS for the 2014-2017 RT & F3 Model Spyders

[BajaRon]

I have been getting a lot of inquiries about spark plug wires and spark plugs for the 1330 Rotax engine and I wanted to update all those who have contacted me about these.

I now carry the correct KGK Spark Plug for the 1330 Rotax engine used in all RT models from 2014 to date and all F3 models. The set of 3 spark plugs will be $36.95 delivered. This set will also include a packet of Thermal Paste which BRP recommends putting on the threads of each spark plug. And Dielectric Grease for the boots.

Thermal paste helps in the transfer of heat from the spark plug to the cylinder head. This helps to maintain the correct temperature within the spark plug and avoid 'Knock' or pre-ignition which is very important. Dielectric Grease keeps the boots form drying out and cracking or welding to the spark plug.

I have these sets in stock and ready to ship.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/17_f.jpg?9765

Some use Anti-Seize on their spark plug threads which, in days gone by, was a recommended application. Especially with the aluminum heads that were becoming prevalent. However, because Anti-Seize acts as an insulator which will isolate the spark plug (thermally) from the head, it caused spark plugs to get too hot creating other issues. The cylinder head acts as a heat sink, wicking away excess heat from the spark plug. Thermal Paste enhances this action allowing the head to maintain the correct operating temperature of the spark plug. Anti-Seize is an insulator. It will block this thermal path from the spark plug threads to the head and work to overheat the spark plug. This can lead to Pre-Ignition (Knock) and premature failure of the spark plug itself.

Regardless of where you purchase our spark plugs, I highly recommend applying a thin layer of thermal paste (Not Anti-Seize) to the threads. Here is a heat transfer graphic of how the spark plug sheds excess heat. As you can see, the lions share of heat dissipates to the head at the threaded portion of the spark plug.

http://www.turbododgeparts.com/assets/images/spark-plug-heat%20dissipation.jpg



As for Spark Plug Wires.... the 1330 Rotax does not use spark plug wires. Instead, this engine uses what are called 'Coil On Plug' or COP, sometimes referred to as a 'Coil Over' system. It is much superior to spark plug wires so you should be glad about that.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/16_f.jpg?9765

[tehrlich]

When are spark plugs typically changed for the 1330?

[jtoro1]

When are spark plugs typically changed for the 1330?

28000 miles mine are still good but I might change them I have 29000

[SPYD3R]

i changed the OEM iridium plugs In my wifes '05 Camry at 104,000+ miles... and they still looked great, nice and tan in color...
BRP recommends changing the 3 plugs in the 1330's at 28K miles, but I'm a bit skeptical about that number... I've built hot-rods & race-cars my entire life, and unless there is something dramatically different with these internal-combustion engines, I don't see why a change is necessary at such a low number... BRP knowingly provided us with NGK MR7BI-8, which are iridium plugs... anyone know if the OEM plugs are good for 100,000+ miles...??? afterall, i could very well be wrong in my assumption...
Dan P
SPYD3R

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

i changed the OEM iridium plugs In my wifes '05 Camry at 104,000+ miles... and they still looked great, nice and tan in color...
BRP recommends changing the 3 plugs in the 1330's at 28K miles, but I'm a bit skeptical about that number... I've built hot-rods & race-cars my entire life, and unless there is something dramatically different with these internal-combustion engines, I don't see why a change is necessary at such a low number... BRP knowingly provided us with NGK MR7BI-8, which are iridium plugs... anyone know if the OEM plugs are good for 100,000+ miles...??? afterall, i could very well be wrong in my assumption...
Dan P
SPYD3R
:agree: .....I also believe someone here ( 2 mos. ago ? ) posted that they looked at theirs and just cleaned them, put fresh paste on them, put them back in......... maybe they will chime in ....... Mike :thumbup:

[JayBros]

I don't really know because I am not an engineer; however, the visual appearance of a spark plug is not a complete indication of the health of the plug. It will tell you if the ehgine is running too rich or lean and that was a pretty reliable indicator back when we had jetted carburetors but today's sophisticated fuel injection systems don't have changeable jets. What visual inspection does not accurately tell you is how the electrical performance of the spark plug actually is and most of us do not have the test equipment to make such a determination. For $40 from BajaRon every 28K on a (you name the price of your Spyder) it's really small beer if you want your machine running at maximum efficiency, IMO. YMMV.

[Chupaca]

I have been sending everyone ove to you and now they will be able to get the plugs they need...:bowdown:

[SPYD3R]

I don't really know because I am not an engineer; however, the visual appearance of a spark plug is not a complete indication of the health of the plug. It will tell you if the ehgine is running too rich or lean and that was a pretty reliable indicator back when we had jetted carburetors but today's sophisticated fuel injection systems don't have changeable jets. What visual inspection does not accurately tell you is how the electrical performance of the spark plug actually is and most of us do not have the test equipment to make such a determination. For $40 from BajaRon every 28K on a (you name the price of your Spyder) it's really small beer if you want your machine running at maximum efficiency, IMO. YMMV.

Jay;
i'm no SPARK PLUG ENGINEER, but to read a plug, you need to look at the color, and look at the electrodes to see how they are wearing... on my wifes Camry, there was no negotiable wear at all... that fits with numerous 'I' plugs i've read in the past... i'm of the belief that iridium plugs could last longer than most vehicles they are installed in... jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R

[BajaRon]

I don't really know because I am not an engineer; however, the visual appearance of a spark plug is not a complete indication of the health of the plug. It will tell you if the ehgine is running too rich or lean and that was a pretty reliable indicator back when we had jetted carburetors but today's sophisticated fuel injection systems don't have changeable jets. What visual inspection does not accurately tell you is how the electrical performance of the spark plug actually is and most of us do not have the test equipment to make such a determination. For $40 from BajaRon every 28K on a (you name the price of your Spyder) it's really small beer if you want your machine running at maximum efficiency, IMO. YMMV.

This is true. A visual check is not necessarily valid. There are internal components which can not be checked visually. The recommended spark plug change interval is 28,000 miles for this engine. And while I don't necessarily hold with all of the recommended service intervals for the 1330 motor. I think this one is prudent as spark plug failure is usually very gradual. Most will not notice the degradation in performance until it is pretty severe.

http://www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131583.image0.jpg



Jay;
i'm no SPARK PLUG ENGINEER, but to read a plug, you need to look at the color, and look at the electrodes to see how they are wearing... on my wifes Camry, there was no negotiable wear at all... that fits with numerous 'I' plugs i've read in the past... i'm of the belief that iridium plugs could last longer than most vehicles they are installed in... jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R

I agree and have experienced the same thing myself. But I also know that motorcycles almost always call for a much shorter spark plug service interval than do cars. I have not researched the reason for this so I am happy to be corrected if necessary.

My understanding is that the average car cruise RPM is between 2,200-2,500. Whereas the average motorcycle (modern engine design) is about double that. Add to this the relatively small amount of time a car is being operated at WOT (Wide Open Throttle or full acceleration) compared to a motorcycle, and you have a good case for a much shorter spark plug life span.

[JayBros]

Jay;
i'm no SPARK PLUG ENGINEER, but to read a plug, you need to look at the color, and look at the electrodes to see how they are wearing... on my wifes Camry, there was no negotiable wear at all... that fits with numerous 'I' plugs i've read in the past... i'm of the belief that iridium plugs could last longer than most vehicles they are installed in... jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R

Yeah, Dan, when we were kids it was ovbious when plugs were worn, and you knew darn well they were going to wear; you could drive a truck through the gap, half a truck and you still had some mileage left! I believe newer plugs, either iridium or standard, have much better electrodes so wear would not be so obvious, but the degradation of electrical efficiency over time is just something the average guy can't measure.

[JimboRTS]

Where can I buy just the thermal paste for spark plugs?

Jim

[SPYD3R]

Yeah, Dan, when we were kids it was ovbious when plugs were worn, and you knew darn well they were going to wear; you could drive a truck through the gap, half a truck and you still had some mileage left! I believe newer plugs, either iridium or standard, have much better electrodes so wear would not be so obvious, but the degradation of electrical efficiency over time is just something the average guy can't measure.

Jay;
having spent the better part of 40+ years building GE Jet Engines for a living, we were required to keep records of everything we did. GE is fanatical about statistics. So record keeping & stats worked its way into my DNA... having said that; i keep records on all my mechanical items... my wifes car hasn't witnessed and improvements in MPG since the installation of new plugs... however, i do believe in changing plugs because you never know whats going on INSIDE the plug... i haven't changed my plugs in my 1330 @ the recommend mileage, but i will change them at 50,000 miles of smiles - cheap insurance... and most likely will buy from Ron...
Dan P
SPYD3R

[Bob Denman]

This is true. A visual check is not necessarily valid. There are internal components which can not be checked visually. The recommended spark plug change interval is 28,000 miles for this engine. And while I don't necessarily hold with all of the recommended service intervals for the 1330 motor. I think this one is prudent as spark plug failure is usually very gradual. Most will not notice the degradation in performance until it is pretty severe.
Ron,
As the "guts" of the plug start to break down: doesn't that increase resistance? :dontknow:
And wouldn't that put strains on other parts of the electrical system? :shocked:

[JayBros]

Where can I buy just the thermal paste for spark plugs?

Jim

BRP Part #420897186. Remember you put it on the threads except for the first two threads. Don't know why this is so. Mayby someone here knows. Ron?

[JayBros]

... however, i do believe in changing plugs because you never know whats going on INSIDE the plug... i haven't changed my plugs in my 1330 @ the recommend mileage, but i will change them at 50,000 miles of smiles - cheap insurance... and most likely will buy from Ron...
Dan P
SPYD3R

Dan, I just noticed in the '14 specifications chart while looking for something else, the gap on the spark plugs is listed as not adjustable. Since I've never messed with an iridium plug I don't know if the gap is not adjustable because the electrodes are so brittle one would snap if you tried to adjust the gap. Interesting...

[BajaRon]

Ron,
As the "guts" of the plug start to break down: doesn't that increase resistance? :dontknow:
And wouldn't that put strains on other parts of the electrical system? :shocked:

It is amazing how interesting spark plugs can be. (Or maybe I'm just strange!) They look simple. But they are not.

Yes, the resistance in the plug can increase with internal 'wear'. And increased resistance can put more stress on the coil. Coils do go bad.


BRP Part #420897186. Remember you put it on the threads except for the first two threads. Don't know why this is so. Mayby someone here knows. Ron?

It is very important NOT to get the thermal paste onto the electrodes. And, in many applications, the last 1 or 2 threads are actually outside of the head threads anyway. So, mostly as a precaution, they tell you to leave the last 2 threads dry. But there isn't any harm done if you get thermal paste on the last 2 threads.


Dan, I just noticed in the '14 specifications chart while looking for something else, the gap on the spark plugs is listed as not adjustable. Since I've never messed with an iridium plug I don't know if the gap is not adjustable because the electrodes are so brittle one would snap if you tried to adjust the gap. Interesting...

Of course the gap is adjustable on these spark plugs. This is how myths get started. And we have found that opening up the gap a bit on the 998 (especially if you are using my wire kit) will give you a bit more performance. We have done no such testing on the 1330 motor.

I think they say you can't adjust the gap to keep you from destroying your Iridium Spark plug. The center iridium electrode is very hard which eliminates virtually all wear. But it is also VERY BRITTLE. Any undue pressure on this center electrode may fracture or break it and ruin the plug.

Yet it is a simple, safe and easy procedure to gap an Iridium spark plug if the correct tool is used properly.

DO NOT use any tool that puts pressure on the center electrode. Here is an example of a very common gaping tool that you DO NOT want to use. It has a gradually tapered and increasingly thicker outer ring which inserts between the center electrode and the ground electrode. You slide the spark plug along this ring until you reach the proper gap using the ring as a wedge. This works great on a standard copper alloy center electrode spark plug. But it will destroy an Iridium spark plug.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/19_f.jpg?9765

The idea is to use a tool that grips the ground electrode in this area leaving the center electrode untouched.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/18_f.jpg?9765

There are common spark plug gaping tools which work well with Iridium spark plugs. This tool will safely make adjustment while ONLY touching the Ground Electrode. And you can use the wire gauges to safely check your gap. It is OK to TOUCH the center electrode. It isn't all that fragile.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/22_f.jpg?9765



http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/21_f.jpg?9765

You can also use a feeler gauge to check your gap (Not to adjust your gap). But I find it harder to get an accurate reading with a feeler gauge. I find the wire gauge (as shown above) to be a better tool for this.

http://img2.jpegbay.com/gallery/006321639/23_f.jpg?9765

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:yes:...Great tutorial Ron..... should make it a sticky ..... Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:agree::clap: :thumbup:

[BajaRon]

:yes:...Great tutorial Ron..... should make it a sticky ..... Mike :thumbup:


:agree::clap: :thumbup:

You guys are TOO Kind!

[garb55]

Ron
Are these plugs different from the ones I bought from you a couple of months ago
Thanks
Don

[BajaRon]

Ron
Are these plugs different from the ones I bought from you a couple of months ago
Thanks
Don

If you purchased spark plugs for the 998 then yes. I sell the NKG IRIDIUM IX spark plugs for the 998. These are an upgrade from the OEM Laser Welded Iridium plugs which I have for the 1330. But I have not yet been able to cross reference the laser welded 1330 spark plugs to an appropriate Iridium IX spark plug. So until I can do this, I will be selling the Laser Welded version for the 1330. This is the factory supplied spark plug for the 1330 engine. It is a very good spark plug.

There are other good spark plugs out there. Just beware of the gimmick plugs with multiple electrodes or surface gap configurations. These work well in some environments (mostly when there is a fouling problem). But they are less than ideal for the Spyder.