What Mileage Are you Changing Your Oil?

[SpyderCruiser]

Have 3,200 miles on the oil change done by the dealer. I have to admit, always changed oil at 3,000 miles be it car or bike. With synthetic, let my wife's car go to 6,000 miles.

I am not willing to let the BRP oil go as long as the manual recommends, especially since it is a synthetic blend, not full synthetic. I plan on using this oil https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power1-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Have used Castrol my whole life and not about to change. For those with the BRP oil, how many miles are you going between changes?

For those using synthetic (any brand) how long are you going between changes?

Do not want this to turn into an oil thread, just want to know what mileage you all feel comfortable with changing the oil at. I know a few of you have had oil testing done and that information would be helpful with determining when to change.

Thank You, Louie and Meg

[Chupaca]

I use the XPS synthetic blend and it has done well. I used Castrol before on all my bikes this is just as good. I always change my oil and filter 3,000 to 5,000 depending on the ryding I have been doing...:thumbup:

[Pirate looks at --]

Looks like you have a 2015 RTL. If that is correct, your owners manual says every 9300 miles....yes I know that seems like a long time, but that will keep your warranty in good standing and seems to not cause any issues. Chupaca has the 998 engine and that is more of the 3000 miles recommendation. The maintenance schedule on the 1330 engine with the SE6 is really nice on the pocket book!:yes:

[SPYD3R]

i had my F3-S serviced today @ 37,294 miles of smiles.... this is my 5th oil change... i don't go the 9300+ miles, but come close once:
1st 3109 miles
2nd 11,880
3rd 20,280
4th 29,289
5th 37,294
i use ONLY the BRP oil, and i've yet to have any issues with lubrication...
Dan P
SPYD3R

[BajaRon]

Have your oil tested. The report may shock you. Especially on the 1330's.

[PW2013STL]

I started out changing every 5000 miles and having the oil tested and always the reports would tell me to go longer before changing. When we road to Alaska the oil was changed at 9600 miles, and the oil report stated that I was good for another 1000 miles. Since then I change at the 9300 mile mark.

[ARtraveler]

The 998 gets changed about every three thousand miles. That turns out to be about once a year for Linda's.

The 1330 gets changed out at 9500 or minimum once a year (per the manual).

[2dogs]

2014 RTS SE6 first oil change done by dealer service dept. at 3k. and replaced with can am XPS semi-synthetic oil 5w20. Second oil change at 6k (9k on the odometer) with Amsoil 10w40 full synthetic along with a new filter. The XPS 5w20 cam am oil was sent in to be analyzed and returned minimal efficient. At 15k on the odometer (6k on the Amsoil) I removed a sample and had it analyzed. It returned also minimal efficient but with a slightly higher viscosity value than the XPS oil. At 18k on the odometer (9k on the 10w40 Amsoil) I changed oil and filter for the third time and again replaced it with Amsoil 10w40. I again had the Amsoil 10w40 analyzed at 9k and it still returned minimal efficient at about the same visocity as the analysis of the first tested XPS oil. It seems that most oils at 4k have reduced their viscosity rating to a stable point and hold that value for the duration. Folks that change oil and filter at 3k should be in excellent shape. However, those who run their oil until 9k as BRP recommends should be in good shape also as long as they change the filter too. Me, I'm going to continue to use Amsoil 10w40 and change it at 9k intervals along with a filter change.

[Lew L]

I change the oil once a year at the end of the riding season here ( 762 inches of snow just above us) I don't like to leave "old" oil in the crank case all winter .

Kaos

[Tango]

Just had it done. I do it once a year. Let the dealer do it. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

[pegasus1300]

I have a V twin so my changes are more frequent then yours. BRP revised the schedule to every 4600 mi. I change mine every 4500 mi because that is easier to remember. I buy my filters,"O"rings and copper washers from BajaRon. Cheaper then BRP. I replaced my drain plugs with the plugs from Value Accessories.

[Indiana Ken]

I have a V twin so my changes are more frequent then yours. BRP revised the schedule to every 4600 mi. I change mine every 4500 mi because that is easier to remember. I buy my filters,"O"rings and copper washers from BajaRon. Cheaper then BRP. I replaced my drain plugs with the plugs from Value Accessories.


I have never changed the oil, (only taken to dealer), but I want to start. - I have a 2012 RT SE. I know about buying the BajaRon stuff, and just ordered a Gold Plug. Should I order several more Gold Plugs? Was going to buy BPR oil.

[pegasus1300]

I have never changed the oil, (only taken to dealer), but I want to start. - I have a 2012 RT SE. I know about buying the BajaRon stuff, and just ordered a Gold Plug. Should I order several more Gold Plugs? Was going to buy BPR oil.

I don't know what a "Gold Plug" is,but if it is to replace the stock BRP drain plug you only need two and I think anything more expensive then the ones in the Value Acessories catalogue is a waste of money. You need one 12mm and one 14mm.

There are a couple of you tube videos on changing the oil in a V Twin and the owner's manual gives a fair description. With all of that information you should be good to go. It isn't hard just time consuming. Allow yourself plenty of time,especially to go back and review the videos. I have 3 ramps I put mine on for more space underneath. Any good JASO MA2 rated synthetic oil will work in your motor. Mike BlueKnight911 likes Valvoline 10w 40 4T synthetic. You can get it from WalMart. I use that or Shell Rotell 6T 5W 40 Synthetic. I have also used Royal Purple Motorcycle Oil 10W 40. BajaRon will make you a good deal on Amzoil along with the filters.
So go for it go change that oil,..........:yes:you know you want to.

[Bob Denman]

The book says 9,300 miles, or one year: whichever comes first! nojoke
Since I only can ride about 5,000 miles each year: I let the calendar's passing Months decide for me! :thumbup:

[SpyderCruiser]

Thanks so much for all your replies, my Grandfather once told me that oil was cheaper then engines, so don't cheap out on the oil changes.

You folks that are changing at 5,000 miles, is that with BRP or synthetic oil?

[A1A]

I change oil & filter every 5,000 miles or 12 months which ever comes first. I always use BRP semi-synthetic oil & BRP filter.
Cheers!

[Mazo EMS2]

Not real likely that I'll get more than 5000 miles in a summer, so my plan will remain the same as always with all of my previous bikes, and other stuff too.....I'll change oil and filter before it gets stored for the off-season.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mobil 1 10-40 Sportbike motorcycle oil and Can Am filter.

There is a very good read about the ratings of oils by an independent person, not company. He had not tested BRP oil, but previous topics where the BRP oil had been sent in for testing indicated the oil had lost about 50% viscosity, bring it to an equivalent 20 wt in under 5k miles. That said, others here have run BRP oil for 100,000 miles with no known issues.

The engine can handle the lower viscosity ok, the gearbox suffers the most.
:yikes: 100,000 miles ....... who ???????................. Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

Jim might have... :dontknow:

[BajaRon]

Mobil 1 10-40 Sportbike motorcycle oil and Can Am filter.

There is a very good read about the ratings of oils by an independent person, not company. He had not tested BRP oil, but previous topics where the BRP oil had been sent in for testing indicated the oil had lost about 50% viscosity, bring it to an equivalent 20 wt in under 5k miles. That said, others here have run BRP oil for 100,000 miles with no known issues.

The engine can handle the lower viscosity ok, the gearbox suffers the most.

Can you give a link to that oil testing article?

[DGoebel]

It's on Cal-Sci's website I think https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oil.html (https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oil.html) I just read it this morning.

[GDA]

i did mine oil change every 3000miles

washable fitler and 5w40 full syn oil

[Samson]

every 2500 miles, full synthetic and filter. Cheap insurance

[TRLBLZR1]

every 2500 miles, full synthetic and filter. Cheap insurance

I'd go 3k, because frequent oil changes can't hurt much (well, maybe the wallet is an exception!) The intervals listed in the manual outright scare me regardless of oil type used. It's the contaminants (including moisture) etc., not just oil "break-down."

[Finn]

I started out changing every 5000 miles and having the oil tested and always the reports would tell me to go longer before changing. When we road to Alaska the oil was changed at 9600 miles, and the oil report stated that I was good for another 1000 miles. Since then I change at the 9300 mile mark.
Hi All, this is first post from me as I have just got my Spyder RT Limited 2917. Regarding oil change it differs on how you use your bike. If you have many 'shopping trolly' trips, short ones, you need to change more often. I just had my last long trip on my old bike, BMW K1200LT, and that was 9000Km over three weeks. From Perth in W. Australia to Port Macquarie NSW for the Ulysses AGM. Long trips like that your bike only has one cold start a day and as its cold starts that gives most of the wear and deterioration of the oil, the stretch of the change can be extended.
cheers,
Finn

[Stayfree]

every 2500 miles, full synthetic and filter. Cheap insurance

I have used the 2,500 mark for oil changes for many years. (Since the early 1970's.) I continue to do so now on all my vehicles (2 Gold Wings, 1 Valkyrie, 1 Spyder RTS, a Ford Explorer, and even my Ford F-450 with a 7.3 Diesel.

I find that spotting the 2500 mark on the odometer is easier than trying to remember which 3000 mark is coming up next. I started that back when 3000 was considered the 'gold standard'.

As @SpyderCruiser pointed out: "...my Grandfather once told me that oil was cheaper then engines, so don't cheap out on the oil changes."

On the Spyder 9300 miles just seems like far to long especially if you are an old dinosaur like myself. I ride quite a bit so I usually end up changing the oil every 2 - 3 months on my bikes which also means I end up checking out the underside fairly often.

Interestingly I also never have to really sweat oil change times on the Can Am if I am on a trip. I figure if the BRP blended oil is good for 9300 miles I can run over the 2500 miles by quite a bit if I am on a trip and it isn't convenient to change oil along the way.

On my bikes I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 20/50 V-Twin. Costs a little bit more than blended oil but so much less than an engine replacement or overhaul. I can honestly say that in close to a million miles on various vehicles I have never had an oil related problem and I ride hard.

Having said that if you choose to use the BRP oil, or an equivalent/better oil and wish to run it 9,300 miles I don't think you will have any problems. One concern I have with the extended oil change intervals recommended by manufacturers these days is the thought that all they really have to be sure of is the engine staying together for the length of the warranty period. On the other hand I never sell or trade in a vehicle. I accumulate miles and by the time I am finished with a vehicle there ain't a whole lot left to trade in. LOL.

Max

[aklim]

Have your oil tested. The report may shock you. Especially on the 1330's.

Shock as in good type or bad?

[Highwayman2013]

I have used the 2,500 mark for oil changes for many years. (Since the early 1970's.) I continue to do so now on all my vehicles (2 Gold Wings, 1 Valkyrie, 1 Spyder RTS, a Ford Explorer, and even my Ford F-450 with a 7.3 Diesel.

I find that spotting the 2500 mark on the odometer is easier than trying to remember which 3000 mark is coming up next. I started that back when 3000 was considered the 'gold standard'.

As @SpyderCruiser pointed out: "...my Grandfather once told me that oil was cheaper then engines, so don't cheap out on the oil changes."

On the Spyder 9300 miles just seems like far to long especially if you are an old dinosaur like myself. I ride quite a bit so I usually end up changing the oil every 2 - 3 months on my bikes which also means I end up checking out the underside fairly often.

Interestingly I also never have to really sweat oil change times on the Can Am if I am on a trip. I figure if the BRP blended oil is good for 9300 miles I can run over the 2500 miles by quite a bit if I am on a trip and it isn't convenient to change oil along the way.

On my bikes I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 20/50 V-Twin. Costs a little bit more than blended oil but so much less than an engine replacement or overhaul. I can honestly say that in close to a million miles on various vehicles I have never had an oil related problem and I ride hard.

Having said that if you choose to use the BRP oil, or an equivalent/better oil and wish to run it 9,300 miles I don't think you will have any problems. One concern I have with the extended oil change intervals recommended by manufacturers these days is the thought that all they really have to be sure of is the engine staying together for the length of the warranty period. On the other hand I never sell or trade in a vehicle. I accumulate miles and by the time I am finished with a vehicle there ain't a whole lot left to trade in. LOL.

Max

You will be safe with early changes but if you have the oil analyzed you will get the maximum use out of your oil. On my 2014 Suzuki 650 V Strom I had the oil (Amsoil 10W40) tested at 3,000 miles and was told to go another 2,000 miles.

[Bruiser37]

Have 3,200 miles on the oil change done by the dealer. I have to admit, always changed oil at 3,000 miles be it car or bike. With synthetic, let my wife's car go to 6,000 miles.

I am not willing to let the BRP oil go as long as the manual recommends, especially since it is a synthetic blend, not full synthetic. I plan on using this oil https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power1-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Have used Castrol my whole life and not about to change. For those with the BRP oil, how many miles are you going between changes?

For those using synthetic (any brand) how long are you going between changes?

Do not want this to turn into an oil thread, just want to know what mileage you all feel comfortable with changing the oil at. I know a few of you have had oil testing done and that information would be helpful with determining when to change.

Thank You, Louie and Meg
BRP recommends 9 to 10K oil & filter. Since I signed on & paid for extended oil changes & other recommended service

I go 5K on BRP synthetic blend and change my oil only with full synthetic Amsoil 10W 40 motorcycle oil. Next 5K I let dealer service change oil, filter & air filter etc. What they don't know won't hurt but I have peace of mind. High RPM engines like Rotax 1330 should never go beyond 5K between changes. Driven 100,000's motorcycle miles... always used Amsoil full synthetic MC oil... narry a problem.

[aklim]

Too soon since we bought it new. At 3000, I will change the oil. At 9000,i think I would send it in for testing and see what happens.

[classicvw]

I follow what my manuals say to do. You can bet the ranch that a manufacturer isn't going to exaggerate and risk thousands of failed engines either under warranty or a government mandated recall after a few dozen engine failures. If they say it's good for 4600, 5000, 7500 whatever, that's what I do.
Or once a year if I don't reach that mileage.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Too soon since we bought it new. At 3000, I will change the oil. At 9000,i think I would send it in for testing and see what happens.
I love / want your " avatar " :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: .... I already have the Cobra :rolleyes:......... Mike :thumbup:

[aklim]

I love / want your " avatar " :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: .... I already have the Cobra :rolleyes:......... Mike :thumbup:

There was a Cobra in the picture? OMG!! I didn't notice. :yikes:

[jcthorne]

For our personal equipment, we believe in the KISS priciple. We chage every 5k. Easy to remember as the service is due at 5, 10, 15, 20 etc.

[aklim]

For our personal equipment, we believe in the KISS priciple. We chage every 5k. Easy to remember as the service is due at 5, 10, 15, 20 etc.

If my lab test says that 10k is going to work, why change at 5k and spend twice the money and time? Good oil and filters aren't given away free and why waste my time doing it, clean up and disposal of oil?

[Dmetcalf]

Have your oil tested. The report may shock you. Especially on the 1330's.

Im curious so would it indicate we need to change our oil earlier or could we go even longer using a good synthetic..?
thanks

[Dmetcalf]

I've always changed my oil on all of my vehicles but with this machine I don't want to do anything that would hurt me if I needed to make a warranty claim ..?
Thanks

[aklim]

I've always changed my oil on all of my vehicles but with this machine I don't want to do anything that would hurt me if I needed to make a warranty claim ..?
Thanks

I don't think it matters what oil you use as long as it is within spec. As to the interval, well, I would think that anything under 9300 is fair game if you want to protect the engine for AFTER the warranty. While I want to do that, I don't want to change every 3000 if it doesn't provide anything but mental satisfaction that you have been a good boy.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If my lab test says that 10k is going to work, why change at 5k and spend twice the money and time? Good oil and filters aren't given away free and why waste my time doing it, clean up and disposal of oil? Well for me this is my last Spyder .... So I do the oil at around 5,000 ( so twice a year ) , but only one filter change. If BRP thinks the filter is good for 9,300 miles I'm good with that ..... But the OIL viscosity is well broken down by 5,000 +/- mi..... and members here have the independent Lab tests to prove it..... If you just change the oil it's not any hassle at all and fairly in-expensive .......... jmho....Mike

[aklim]

Well for me this is my last Spyder .... So I do the oil at around 5,000 ( so twice a year ) , but only one filter change. If BRP thinks the filter is good for 9,300 miles I'm good with that ..... But the OIL viscosity is well broken down by 5,000 +/- mi..... and members here have the independent Lab tests to prove it..... If you just change the oil it's not any hassle at all and fairly in-expensive .......... jmho....Mike

OK. Now THAT is another case. Any idea who those are so I can check with them what oil they use and maybe avoid it? Or do you know if the BRP oil is what is broken down? If it is, I'm definitely not using that oil and if I change the oil, I'm changing the filter since I am already there.

[PaladinLV]

After the first change, every 9,000 or one year which ever comes first as specified by BRP.

AJ


Have 3,200 miles on the oil change done by the dealer. I have to admit, always changed oil at 3,000 miles be it car or bike. With synthetic, let my wife's car go to 6,000 miles.

I am not willing to let the BRP oil go as long as the manual recommends, especially since it is a synthetic blend, not full synthetic. I plan on using this oil https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power1-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Have used Castrol my whole life and not about to change. For those with the BRP oil, how many miles are you going between changes?

For those using synthetic (any brand) how long are you going between changes?

Do not want this to turn into an oil thread, just want to know what mileage you all feel comfortable with changing the oil at. I know a few of you have had oil testing done and that information would be helpful with determining when to change.

Thank You, Louie and Meg

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK. Now THAT is another case. Any idea who those are so I can check with them what oil they use and maybe avoid it? Or do you know if the BRP oil is what is broken down? If it is, I'm definitely not using that oil and if I change the oil, I'm changing the filter since I am already there.
Not something I committed to memory , I'm pretty sure JC Thorne has done His a few times...He uses Rotella T-6 .....All the people who had the testing done were using Full Synthetic of different brands ..... ( from my memory ) even those had viscosity break-down at 4 to 5,000 miles .............have you tried the Search function ???? .... Mike

[DGoebel]

I've done Blackstone Labs testing on my 998 with the BRP XPS oil and they (Blackstone) tells me to change at 3000 miles even with their TBN testing.
I've switched to full Synthetic and will be testing again at 3000 miles.

[jcthorne]

If my lab test says that 10k is going to work, why change at 5k and spend twice the money and time? Good oil and filters aren't given away free and why waste my time doing it, clean up and disposal of oil?


Have not seen one single used oil analysis that shows a spyder with 10k on the oil was good. So far, none have made it past 5k. The trans and clutch shear the oil too severely for even the best synthetics to hold up that long.

[aklim]

Have not seen one single used oil analysis that shows a spyder with 10k on the oil was good. So far, none have made it past 5k. The trans and clutch shear the oil too severely for even the best synthetics to hold up that long.

THAT IS going to be a problem. Makes me wonder how they came up with the 9300 number

[classicvw]

THAT IS going to be a problem. Makes me wonder how they came up with the 9300 number

I'm sure they designed, built, and tested their engines thoroughly as every manufacturer does. If they were THAT FAR off- 9300 when it should have been 5000, not only would they be the most incompetent fools ever to build a vehicle, most everyone that has been sticking to the 9300 interval would have had an engine failure. That's just not happening.

I'll say it again- the guys that designed and built our engines know best. Why would they exaggerate how long you should go between oil changes and risk thousands of warranty claims or complaints?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm sure they designed, built, and tested their engines thoroughly as every manufacturer does. If they were THAT FAR off- 9300 when it should have been 5000, not only would they be the most incompetent fools ever to build a vehicle, most everyone that has been sticking to the 9300 interval would have had an engine failure. That's just not happening.

I'll say it again- the guys that designed and built our engines know best. Why would they exaggerate how long you should go between oil changes and risk thousands of warranty claims or complaints? I think, the bean counters at BRP asked the engineers what were the odds of the engine or transmission in the 1330 Ace package Failing BEFORE THE WARRANTY EXPIRED ..... if the " change oil & filter " intervals were extended ....... answer , maybe .02 %, but probably lower than that number. So BRP is not concerned about failures below 50,000 miles ...... after that it will the owners problem..... And this is not uncommon LOGIC in the AUTO industry. The manufactures cover their Butts yours not so much..... That's why I use Full Synthetic and change 5,000 mi. or less ....... Mike :thumbup:

[aklim]

I'm sure they designed, built, and tested their engines thoroughly as every manufacturer does. If they were THAT FAR off- 9300 when it should have been 5000, not only would they be the most incompetent fools ever to build a vehicle, most everyone that has been sticking to the 9300 interval would have had an engine failure. That's just not happening.

I'll say it again- the guys that designed and built our engines know best. Why would they exaggerate how long you should go between oil changes and risk thousands of warranty claims or complaints?

Warranty is good for 2 years. BEST goes to 5. Say you ride it 20K to 30K and trade it in, that becomes Somebody Else's Problem. Under SEP Principle, if you have a problem and no BEST, it is your problem. If you have a problem, they are already covered. One or two or even 5 oil changes aren't going to cause a problem to rear it's ugly head.

Why exaggerate? I have talked to quite a few salesmen. No boobs to attract me so they say "If you trade in your 990 Rotax for the 1330 ACE, your service intervals will be 9300 miles.". So to answer your question, "Selling Point". They forget to mention that you do it 1 year or 9300 miles, whichever comes first. They gave the impression that you can run for 9300 miles which might be 2 or 3 years for many riders. At $300 an oil change/service, you are saving money.

Signed
The Local Skeptic

[classicvw]

I think, the bean counters at BRP asked the engineers what were the odds of the engine or transmission in the 1330 Ace package Failing BEFORE THE WARRANTY EXPIRED ..... if the " change oil & filter " intervals were extended ....... answer , maybe .02 %, but probably lower than that number. So BRP is not concerned about failures below 50,000 miles ...... after that it will the owners problem..... And this is not uncommon LOGIC in the AUTO industry. The manufactures cover their Butts yours not so much..... That's why I use Full Synthetic and change 5,000 mi. or less ....... Mike :thumbup:

I see your point and that scenario may be true, but then all years and models would have been a gross exaggeration. I just don't see the 4600 mile figure to be such an exaggeration.

I don't believe all bean counters would be that short sighted. True, an out of warranty engine failure would mean a large $$$ service for the dealers way down the road, but I don't think BRP gives that much of a rat's ass for the dealers future service billing. AND, any engine failure out of warranty would certainly sour that owner on BRP and probably would sell his Spyder and bad-mouth BRP all over the internet. Too much of that type of bad publicity is bad for the company's bottom line, even if it became "somebody else's problem" as you put it. It would still bite BRP. No maker can survive if their vehicle's reliability reputation sinks to a certain low. See: Yugo

[aklim]

I see your point and that scenario may be true, but then all years and models would have been a gross exaggeration. I just don't see the 4600 mile figure to be such an exaggeration.

I don't believe all bean counters would be that short sighted. True, an out of warranty engine failure would mean a large $$$ service for the dealers way down the road, but I don't think BRP gives that much of a rat's ass for the dealers future service billing. AND, any engine failure out of warranty would certainly sour that owner on BRP and probably would sell his Spyder and bad-mouth BRP all over the internet. Too much of that type of bad publicity is bad for the company's bottom line, even if it became "somebody else's problem" as you put it. It would still bite BRP. No maker can survive if their vehicle's reliability reputation sinks to a certain low. See: Yugo

True but how many people do a breakdown analysis? Most drivers simply drop the car off, pick up when called and pay. Besides, this year, I get my bonus. By the time this comes back to bite me, I might be with another company. So if the odds are right, we're good. If the odds go against me, well, let it be whomever holds my position because that bonus check is cashed and spent.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I see your point and that scenario may be true, but then all years and models would have been a gross exaggeration. I just don't see the 4600 mile figure to be such an exaggeration.

I don't believe all bean counters would be that short sighted. True, an out of warranty engine failure would mean a large $$$ service for the dealers way down the road, but I don't think BRP gives that much of a rat's ass for the dealers future service billing. AND, any engine failure out of warranty would certainly sour that owner on BRP and probably would sell his Spyder and bad-mouth BRP all over the internet. Too much of that type of bad publicity is bad for the company's bottom line, even if it became "somebody else's problem" as you put it. It would still bite BRP. No maker can survive if their vehicle's reliability reputation sinks to a certain low. See: Yugo I've read some interesting articles about 1,000,000 + mile Volvos and Saab's .... and those owners ALWAYS changed their oils at half or better than the Mfg. recommended mileages ..... I guess they weren't trusting souls either.... This is my last Spyder and I'm looking to get 500,000 before I'm dead .... oil is pretty cheap insurance ...... jmho ...... Mike

[jcthorne]

I'm sure they designed, built, and tested their engines thoroughly as every manufacturer does. If they were THAT FAR off- 9300 when it should have been 5000, not only would they be the most incompetent fools ever to build a vehicle, most everyone that has been sticking to the 9300 interval would have had an engine failure. That's just not happening.

I'll say it again- the guys that designed and built our engines know best. Why would they exaggerate how long you should go between oil changes and risk thousands of warranty claims or complaints?


BRP does not have a financial interest in how long the engine lasts past its warranty period. The costs of maintenance were very much a complaint among owners before the 1330 so longer service intervals were a big selling point. Marketing and no financial reason not to extend....I will let you read the tea leaves here.

[classicvw]

BRP does not have a financial interest in how long the engine lasts past its warranty period.

If they want to keep selling them in the future they do.

[UtahPete]

Have your oil tested. The report may shock you. Especially on the 1330's.


What do you mean by having the oil tested?
By whom?
Why would it shock me?

[UtahPete]

BRP does not have a financial interest in how long the engine lasts past its warranty period. The costs of maintenance were very much a complaint among owners before the 1330 so longer service intervals were a big selling point. Marketing and no financial reason not to extend....I will let you read the tea leaves here.

That's kind of cynical, don't you think? Is it just BRP or is it all products made by any for-profit company? I don't understand where you're coming from.

[UtahPete]

I don't think it matters what oil you use as long as it is within spec. As to the interval, well, I would think that anything under 9300 is fair game if you want to protect the engine for AFTER the warranty. While I want to do that, I don't want to change every 3000 if it doesn't provide anything but mental satisfaction that you have been a good boy.

You have got to stop posting on threads I'm following ... that avatar pic is too much for my 70-year-old heart ... I've always wanted a Cobra

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You have got to stop posting on threads I'm following ... that avatar pic is too much for my 70-year-old heart ... I've always wanted a Cobra If you happen to come East , stop by and let you drive one of mine ..... I also have a copy of the Daytona Coupe ( that's the one that wupped Enzo's Ferrari's... 1-2 & 3 at Leman's ) ( Bob find a Pic and post it ....Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:

[UtahPete]

If you happen to come East , stop by and let you drive one of mine ..... I also have a copy of the Daytona Coupe ( that's the one that wupped Enzo's Ferrari's... 1-2 & 3 at Leman's ) ( Bob find a Pic and post it ....Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:

You got a deal!

[aklim]

If they want to keep selling them in the future they do.

Who is "they" and how far is "future"? If you were the exec and your bonus is based on this financial year and you might not be here in 5 years, WGAS? I have seen execs make a project and leave to another department or upwards. Afterwards, when the project goes south, it's "musical chairs" time and they are nowhere to be found.

If one guy cannot get it to last 9300 miles, probably his machine is toast. That said, if nobody can seem to get it to last, I kinda wonder.

[aklim]

That's kind of cynical, don't you think? Is it just BRP or is it all products made by any for-profit company? I don't understand where you're coming from.

Being the cynic I am, I'd say it is anything that is touched by a human.

[aklim]

If you happen to come East , stop by and let you drive one of mine ..... I also have a copy of the Daytona Coupe ( that's the one that wupped Enzo's Ferrari's... 1-2 & 3 at Leman's ) ( Bob find a Pic and post it ....Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:

Probably ok for him but me, I'd rather have Penny Mathis ride me like a bicycle.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I know there is a vast difference between cars and motorcycles in how the oil is treated by the engine, but for contrast note this. I had a 1990 Acura legend back in the mid 90's. The oil change interval recommended by Honda was 15,000 miles, dino or synthetic.

I'll be changing the oil in my 2014 RTS sometime in the next few weeks. It's been about 9000 miles since the last change. I have an oil test kit in the garage so I'll send in a sample and see what the lab says. I'll report back then.

[aklim]

I know there is a vast difference between cars and motorcycles in how the oil is treated by the engine, but for contrast note this. I had a 1990 Acura legend back in the mid 90's. The oil change interval recommended by Honda was 15,000 miles, dyno or synthetic.

I'll be changing the oil in my 2014 RTS sometime in the next few weeks. It's been about 9000 miles since the last change. I have an oil test kit in the garage so I'll send in a sample and see what the lab says. I'll report back then.

What oil are you using?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

What oil are you using?
Amsoil Metric 10W-40

[aklim]

Amsoil Metric 10W-40

I'd be curious since it is either that or Mobil 1 Racing 4T. Still on the fence either way

[KX5062]

On my 2014 RT with the ACE motor I've sent the oil off to Blackstone Labs twice and both times they were at the 5000 mile change mark (or so) and the report stated this was an appropriate interval and to not go much further due to the oil degradation. Both times I was using pure synthetic oil. The first time was Amsoil 10-40w and the second time was Shell Rotella T6. Otherwise the testing was unremarkable, except apparently due to the semi-automatic transmission design (I suppose) the oils do break down rapidly (shear as mentioned previously).

I personally don't believe in semi-synthetic oils, so I don't buy or use them. Otherwise, I have no beef with BRP branded oils, I just don't use them.

[11rtLTD]

Have 3,200 miles on the oil change done by the dealer. I have to admit, always changed oil at 3,000 miles be it car or bike. With synthetic, let my wife's car go to 6,000 miles.

I am not willing to let the BRP oil go as long as the manual recommends, especially since it is a synthetic blend, not full synthetic. I plan on using this oil https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power1-10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISDH4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Have used Castrol my whole life and not about to change. For those with the BRP oil, how many miles are you going between changes?

For those using synthetic (any brand) how long are you going between changes?

Do not want this to turn into an oil thread, just want to know what mileage you all feel comfortable with changing the oil at. I know a few of you have had oil testing done and that information would be helpful with determining when to change.

Thank You, Louie and Meg

I changed my oil yesterday. Bought my Spyder in March and I am right at 3K miles.
I got my filters from Bajaron and the Castrol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MISDII/ref=snk_ddb_dp_1_mdpajx?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&ie=UTF8
oil.
Time consuming, but not difficult.
Owners manual says 4.5 quarts. I have the extended HCM transmission filter and the bike only took 4qts.
I will only use a full synthetic in my bike.... only 1day into it...but so far so good 😎