2014 RT rear brake pad replacement - can you just change the pads?

[teninospyder]

Ok, I'm getting scared as I read some old posts on this subject. As many of you, I have changed pads many times on cars I've owned, but never had to worry about computer interfaces, or bleeding of the brakes (except to make sure the reservoir didn't over flow when the piston was pushed back in), or parking brake sensors, etc. - I just wanted to put new shoes in place.

I thought I would change the rear pads on our 2014 RT before a 1500 mile trip in 2 weeks, but in reviewing here about what is (totally) required per procedure, now I'm afraid to tackle it myself on such short notice, and worry about doing all the other things correctly. (It's not like I was going to be just running around town in case something wasn't right shortly after I did it).

Are all the other things really necessary - meaning I should wait until my dealer can do it?

Help !!

[Bob Denman]

Folks in here change their brake pads all of the time; I even changed a set on my earlier RT... :thumbup:

[billybovine]

Sure go ahead and change the pads. Can be done in less than an hour. Just remember to pump the brake pedal until it's firm before turn the key on.

[IGETAROUND]

only difference with the spyder, the piston needs to be turned counter clock wise to reduce it to starting position. And as Billy said about pumping your pedal up before turning on the key. Go for it, you'll feel better about things on your trip

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ok, I'm getting scared as I read some old posts on this subject. As many of you, I have changed pads many times on cars I've owned, but never had to worry about computer interfaces, or bleeding of the brakes (except to make sure the reservoir didn't over flow when the piston was pushed back in), or parking brake sensors, etc. - I just wanted to put new shoes in place.

I thought I would change the rear pads on our 2014 RT before a 1500 mile trip in 2 weeks, but in reviewing here about what is (totally) required per procedure, now I'm afraid to tackle it myself on such short notice, and worry about doing all the other things correctly. (It's not like I was going to be just running around town in case something wasn't right shortly after I did it).

Are all the other things really necessary - meaning I should wait until my dealer can do it?

Help !!
I did mine two weeks ago and it was a B*tch ...... The problem I had was getting the piston back in far enough ( which meant completely ) ..... If you have someone to hold the caliper assembly while you turn the piston so it re-tracts it would be sooooooooooooo much easier .... afterwards I thought - if I could have turned the caliper around and bolted it back on so it was firmly held that would have worked .... but the hoses aren't long enough to do that ........ I even made a tool from a 1/2 inch pipe nipple that I trimmed down and then welded a large nut on the end , so I could use a socket and rachet ...... best of luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Chupaca]

The earlier models were easier but if you take your time you can do it no problem. don't let what you read here scare you. :thumbup:

[teninospyder]

Folks in here change their brake pads all of the time; I even changed a set on my earlier RT... :thumbup:

Thanks,

Just to be clear.....just putting on new pads - I don't need to worry about the "BUDDS", and resetting the parking brake somehow, and getting an unexpected "brake failure" message later, etc. ??
I know about the piston ratch thing, to be able to get the new pads in. Have that on a few cars too.

Incidently, the pads currently measure.109 inches (used an equivalent thickness piece of material and slipped it in between the pad, backer plate, and rotor). My fronts are about the same I just checked.

I will make sure to pump the brakes without the key on :-))

[BajaRon]

Thanks,

Just to be clear.....just putting on new pads - I don't need to worry about the "BUDDS", and resetting the parking brake somehow, and getting an unexpected "brake failure" message later, etc. ??
I know about the piston ratch thing, to be able to get the new pads in. Have that on a few cars too.

Incidently, the pads currently measure.109 inches (used an equivalent thickness piece of material and slipped it in between the pad, backer plate, and rotor). My fronts are about the same I just checked.

I will make sure to pump the brakes without the key on :-))

You do not need BUDS to do a brake job on any Spyder.

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Save the "BUDS" (Or any other Barley-Pop!), until after the job is done! :cheers: