Questions regarding trailer hitch & module for 2015 RTS

[Ex-Rocket]

I just purchased a used trailer and now I have to find a trailer hitch & module. The trailer which is an Aluma Motorcycle trailer, 2004 year model and has a 4 prong plug, I believe he said. I don't have the trailer in my procession as yet or I would try to describe it. Which is best, BRP, Show Chrome, etc? I read several posts that the BRP module got fried for whatever reason, specifically not properly grounded. Are there other modules out there that are better and less likely to get fried? All suggestions welcome. Let the suggestions begin. Thanks to all

[billybovine]

If you are correct and the trailer is a 4 wire. (No amber turns signal lights) You can go either way, BRP or Show Chrome.

If you choose the BRP hitch. It comes as a complete kit. Wiring harness (isolated and converted 5 to 4), hitch and mud flap, etc. The plug on the BRP harness will be a square 4 and the trailer will be likely a flat 4. So you will need to cut one off and change it or make an adapter.

If you choose to go with the Show Chrome hitch. You will need to buy the parts that go together. You need the hitch, mud flap and wiring harness. The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Blowing out modules problem. Usually that is caused by faulty wiring in the trailer. Bad connection not a short and quite often that bad connection is on the ground side.

[pegasus1300]

Check with Pierre at Spydertv.net. He has a really nice hitch that won't move on you after you use it for a bit. He may also be able to suggest some wiring solutions for you.

[LJspydee]

A module from an auto parts store works also for about $25.

[IGETAROUND]

The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Billybovine,

What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
Al in Kazoo

[fencepost]

Contact Lewis @ Electrical Connection, he is a site Sponsor, he is working on a wiring kit now.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Billybovine,

What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
Al in Kazoo
The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.

[Haze]

Here is a posting that shows how to replace the BRP Module if it fails. He ultimately changed from Hopkins Module to a Curt unit with success.
See the https://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/2013-spyder-st-hitch-converter-replacement/ (https://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/2013-spyder-st-hitch-converter-replacement/) link for a detailed description of that first replacement.

[billybovine]

The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.
.

Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

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Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).
You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

[billybovine]

You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.
ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

[billybovine]

ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

.

Of course there is no fuse between the cluster and the lights. That would be the wrong place for the fuse. That would leave the cluster unprotected in case of short between it and the fuse. The fuse is where it should be on a negative ground system. Between the positive source and the cluster. As mentioned a couple posts above. In case of the 2013 RT and ST that is the 15 amp fuse F1 in the Left Fuse Box. I also took another look at the hazard lights. The switch is on another fuse but that is signal voltage for the cluster and not power for the lights.

[5legsshort]

We have the same bike you have (2015 RT-S) and an Aluma trailer (2010 year), I installed these with the greatest of ease, and works perfectly !

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYFGTFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIVA2AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Ex-Rocket]

ok, finally took possession of the Aluma trailer and took a few pictures of the power connector that is on the trailer. Do they make a pigtail or convertor to go from the trailer connector to the trailer hitch connector? I haven't purchased the Trailer hitch as yet and trying to figure what trailer hitch to go with, either the Show Chrome or the BRP OEM trailer hitch. Those that have the Show Chrome or BRP, please chime in. Is one better made than the other? Here are the pictures of the power connector on the trailer.
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[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The trailer has amber turn signal lights, right?

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

[billybovine]

Well that does not look like a 4 prong plug to me. So same question as IdahoMtnSpyder. Does the trailer have working amber turn signal lights?

[Ex-Rocket]

I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.
Almost. One would be ground, one is tail/running lights, one is left brake/turn light, and fourth is right brake/turn light. Your best bet is to cut off the current connector and splice on a 4 wire connector that matches the wiring on the hitch you buy. Didn't we discuss this in an earlier post? I'll have to look.

[Ex-Rocket]

Update. I went ahead and purchased the BRP trailer hitch and module. I just thought that the BRP just looked to be better made. I had the trailer hitch installed today and the power connector is a square 4 pin connector. Does anybody know what the pin outs on the Trailer hitch are? There is one male pin connector and the other 3 are female.

But here is the hard part. There is 5 wires coming out from the Aluma trailer. I got an extra wire I guess. The color of the wires coming out of the trailer wiring are, RED, YELLOW, WHITE, GREEN & BROWN. How is the best way to figure what color wire is doing what? The trailer has a 5 pin round connector now but I'd figure I'll just cut that off and buy a 4 pin connector that will match up with the trailer hitch connector and solder or splice the wires. Where can I buy the 4 pin square connector at any auto parts store?

[billybovine]

Here is a source for the square 4 connector. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connector

(https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connectorWhite)Whit e wire should be ground.
Brown wire should be tail/running lights
Green wire should be right turn/brake
Yellow wire should be left turn/brake

The red wire should not be used.

[JayD]

I just purchased a used trailer and now I have to findtrailer hitch & module. The trailer which is an Aluma Motorcycle trailer, 2004 year model and has a 4 prong plug, I believe he said. I don't have the trailer in my procession as yet or I would try to describe it. Which is best, BRP, Show Chrome, etc? I read several posts that the BRP module got fried for whatever reason, specifically not properly grounded. Are there other modules out there that are better and less likely to get fried? All suggestions welcome. Let the suggestions begin. Thanks to all


I have same trailer. Go with BRP hitch and Show Chrome wiring harness. You can easily install wiring harness. The BRP harness doesn't like trailers other than theirs. Show Chrome wires direct to battery so you aren't messing with nanny.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have same trailer. Go with BRP hitch and Show Chrome wiring harness. You can easily install wiring harness. The BRP harness doesn't like trailers other than theirs. Show Chrome wires direct to battery so you aren't messing with nanny.
BRP harness has nothing to do with nanny. In fact, it draws power for the trailer lights direct from the battery just like the Show Chrome one does. The difference is the wire from the battery is already in the connector for the trailer adapter and is fed by a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box.

[Ex-Rocket]

Here is a source for the square 4 connector. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connector

(https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connectorWhite)Whit e wire should be ground.
Brown wire should be tail/running lights
Green wire should be right turn/brake
Yellow wire should be left turn/brake

The red wire should not be used.

Thanks Billy

[Ex-Rocket]

Does anybody know what pins are what , on the square 4 pole connector of the trailer hitch? One is a male and the other 3 are female.

[JayD]

BRP harness has nothing to do with nanny. In fact, it draws power for the trailer lights direct from the battery just like the Show Chrome one does. The difference is the wire from the battery is already in the connector for the trailer adapter and is fed by a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box.

You are correct about the nanny. It is the BRP control module that doesn't like other trailers. I know I went through two of them before I switched to Show Chrome. No problems since.

[billybovine]

Does anybody know what pins are what , on the square 4 pole connector of the trailer hitch? One is a male and the other 3 are female.
.

Wire colors are the same as I explain above.

White is ground. Female socket.
Brown is tail/running lights.
Green right turn/brake
Yellow left turn/brake.

So if your trailer was wired correctly to wire color standard. You would attach the white to white. Brown to brown. Green to green. Yellow to yellow.

[Hatter]

I have the same issue. A 2016 F3-T with the BRP hitch and wire harness (4 pin square connection) and an Aluma MCT trailer with the same 5 pin round connection.
I have checked with three sources, including an Aluma dealer service department. All three agree there is no adapter available to simply convert the connections.
I have attempted to contact electrical connection through its website but never got a response. It appears the trailer may have to be rewired and a couple lights switched out

[Ex-Rocket]

I have the same issue. A 2016 F3-T with the BRP hitch and wire harness (4 pin square connection) and an Aluma MCT trailer with the same 5 pin round connection.
I have checked with three sources, including an Aluma dealer service department. All three agree there is no adapter available to simply convert the connections.
I have attempted to contact electrical connection through its website but never got a response. It appears the trailer may have to be rewired and a couple lights switched out

You're going to have to cut the 5 pin round connector off and then splice in a new 4 pole square connector into the existing wiring. I bought mine on Ebay and its a Hopkins 11147975 4 pole square set. Just do a search on Ebay and several will come up. Mine cost $7.90 with free shipping.

What year is your Aluma MCT trailer? Mine is a 2004 and the color of the wires in the tongue are White, Yellow, Green, Brown and Red. As per Billybovine the red wire is not used. Billy said just to match up the colors with the new Hopkins 4 pole connector and you should be good to go. I just ordered the new connectors today and won't have them till next Tuesday. I will report back when I get it wired and let you know if it worked or not.

[Hatter]

My MCT is a 2008. The connection is buried in factory shrink wrap so I can't see the color of the wires.
If this is of interest, you can get an MCT wiring schematic from the Aluma website. Click the drop down menu from 'Customer Support' on the
Home page. Then click on FAQ. #7 of FAQ will have a link to the schematic.
Please keep us advised on your progress.

[billybovine]

My MCT is a 2008. The connection is buried in factory shrink wrap so I can't see the color of the wires.
If this is of interest, you can get an MCT wiring schematic from the Aluma website. Click the drop down menu from 'Customer Support' on the
Home page. Then click on FAQ. #7 of FAQ will have a link to the schematic.
Please keep us advised on your progress.
.

According to the wiring diagram you pointed out. The Aluma trailer has amber turn signals. Then the red wire is used for brake lights. Ex-Rocket says his does not have amber turn signals. That would make the red wire in his trailer obsolete.

So the question is and it is very important. Does your trailer have amber turn signal lights?

142657

[Ex-Rocket]

.

Wire colors are the same as I explain above.

White is ground. Female socket.
Brown is tail/running lights.
Green right turn/brake
Yellow left turn/brake.

So if your trailer was wired correctly to wire color standard. You would attach the white to white. Brown to brown. Green to green. Yellow to yellow.

Ok Update: Billy I finally got around and did a temporary wiring of the BRP module which is the Hopkins square 4 wire plug. I matched white to white, brown to brown, yellow to yellow and green to green. All the lights work, turn signals, running lights etc. except the brake lights. I did not use the red wire from the trailer. I looked at how the rear brake lights are wired and I only have 3 wires going to the rear lights. On the right rear light, I have a Brown, Green and White wires. On the left side, I have Brown, Yellow and White. And printed on the exterior of the rear lights is, Tail, signal and ground. Does the whole trailer need to be rewired or do the rear lights need to be changed out? I'm kind of lost now. Anyone with help?

[billybovine]

Ok Update: Billy I finally got around and did a temporary wiring of the BRP module which is the Hopkins square 4 wire plug. I matched white to white, brown to brown, yellow to yellow and green to green. All the lights work, turn signals, running lights etc. except the brake lights. I did not use the red wire from the trailer. I looked at how the rear brake lights are wired and I only have 3 wires going to the rear lights. On the right rear light, I have a Brown, Green and White wires. On the left side, I have Brown, Yellow and White. And printed on the exterior of the rear lights is, Tail, signal and ground. Does the whole trailer need to be rewired or do the rear lights need to be changed out? I'm kind of lost now. Anyone with help?
.

3 wires into each rear light and 1 of them is ground (white), 2nd is running lights (brown), the other is either green or yellow depending on the side. That's perfect.

Since the brake is combined with with the turn signals. Same wires and same bulbs. If the turn signals work the brake lights must work. How are you testing the brake lights?

PS Brake lights will flash on one side if signal light is on.

[Ex-Rocket]

.

3 wires into each rear light and 1 of them is ground (white), 2nd is running lights (brown), the other is either green or yellow depending on the side. That's perfect.

Since the brake is combined with with the turn signals. Same wires and same bulbs. If the turn signals work the brake lights must work. How are you testing the brake lights?

PS Brake lights will flash on one side if signal light is on.

The way I'm testing them is with the ignition switch just turned on but bike is not running. With no turn signals on and just the running lights lite up, I press on the brake pedal and the brake lights on the bike come on but the brake lights on the trailer do not. Should I be testing some other way?

[Ex-Rocket]

I forgot to mention one thing in the way I'm checking the system out. I don't have the trailer sitting on the hitch ball. Would that make any difference? I don't see how it would except for the grounding of the trailer through the hitch ball. Anybody know?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I forgot to mention one thing in the way I'm checking the system out. I don't have the trailer sitting on the hitch ball. Would that make any difference? I don't see how it would except for the grounding of the trailer through the hitch ball. Anybody know?
No, the trailer does not need to be on the ball. Did you get the BRP trailer hitch kit? If so, how did you connect the module into the bike wiring? The bike wiring is 5 wire which means the turn signals are separate from the brake lights. The module should have six wires coming into it, five to connect to the bike light wires and one to go to battery. Then there are 4 wires coming out of it. It looks to me like the bike brake light signal isn't going into the module. If the module you got has only 5 wires going into it, you got the wrong module.

[billybovine]

The way I'm testing them is with the ignition switch just turned on but bike is not running. With no turn signals on and just the running lights lite up, I press on the brake pedal and the brake lights on the bike come on but the brake lights on the trailer do not. Should I be testing some other way?

There must be something wrong with the trailer harness wiring in the Spyder. If you have a 12v test light or a DC voltage tester. Test the output at the plug. The green wire and the yellow wire should be 12V when the brakes are applied. If you can't test it yourself. Take it back to whoever installed the harness and tell them to test it and fix it. They should have tested it before leaving the shop in the first place.

[Ex-Rocket]

I had my dealer install the module and trailer hitch. Yes it is a BRP trailer hitch kit. So I'm not sure how it is wired. It took them about 2 hours to complete the work. I do have a DVM and that how I checked the square 4 pin connector that is coming from the bike. But all I checked was the running lights and turn signals as I was by myself and it was impossible to check as DVM leads were to short to check the 12 VDC when the brake pedal is depressed. I guess a trip back to the dealer is do, but I will check to see if there is 12 VDC when the brake pedal is pressed when I can get someone to help with the checking. Thanks for everybody's help. It is much appreciated. I will get back when I either check the voltage or take the bike back to the dealer.

[Ex-Rocket]

UPDATE: Today I checked to make sure that I had 12VDC at the 4 pin square connector coming from the BRP module and it turned out I did. I was checking from the ground lug to either the green or the yellow wires and I had 12 volts when either the turn signal was turn on or if I hit the brake pedal. But when I hook everything it up to the trailer via the 4 pin square connector everything works except the brake lights. Running lights works, both turn signals work but no brake lights when the brake pedal is pushed.
Question: Remember my trailer was wired using 5 wires which included a red wire for the brakes. My question is just where is that red wire taped into on the trailer? What I can't understand is if the turn signals work, why don't the brake lights work because the same 2 wires, green and yellow are used for the signals and the brakes. So I'm guessing that somewhere in the trailer wiring the red wire is taped into some other wire I guess. I am loss on this folks. Need HELP.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Do you have red or amber turn signals?

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

[Ex-Rocket]

Do you have red or amber turn signals?

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

red only

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Something isn't adding up. If you have voltage on the yellow and green wires at the connector with either the turn signal on or the brake light on and a red turn signal bulb on the trailer flashes when the bike turn signal is on, then that same bulb has to be lit when the brake is on, unless there is some sort of screwed up cross wiring between the lights somehow. Apply power to the red wire and see if you get a separate pair of bulbs to light up. You won't be using those bulbs with the four wire configuration. Are the bulbs for the turn signals and tail lights separate bulbs, or a dual filament bulb? Do your voltage tests again but connect the ground side of the voltmeter to the bike chassis, not the ground wire in the connector. Let us know what you see then. There may be some miswiring with the module connections.

[Ex-Rocket]

I haven't done anymore voltage checking but wanted to post the pictures of the rear running/brake/ turn signal lights that are mounted on my trailer. It looks like it a single bulb with a double filament. It is an enclosed light fixture as you can see from the pictures. I took an outside picture and also what it looks like on the inside where the connector plugs unto the light enclosure.

143260143261

[Lucky]

Is there any chance a converter is stashed under the trailer? My trailer is a 4 wire trailer. My Spyder harness is a ShowChrome 5 wire harness. I stashed a 5 to 4 converter under the trailer, on top of the tounge. I ran a 4 wire loop to the coupler area so I can use either 4 or 5 but if I had not done that, the brakes wouldn't light using 4. The fact you have a red wire in there sounds like a converter exists somewhere.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Is there any chance a converter is stashed under the trailer? My trailer is a 4 wire trailer. My Spyder harness is a ShowChrome 5 wire harness. I stashed a 5 to 4 converter under the trailer, on top of the tounge. I ran a 4 wire loop to the coupler area so I can use either 4 or 5 but if I had not done that, the brakes wouldn't light using 4. The fact you have a red wire in there sounds like a converter exists somewhere.
I think you are on to something.

[billybovine]

I would agree. The trailer must have a 3 to 2 converter built in.

[Ex-Rocket]

Just where would the converter be? Just what am I looking for? Size and shape of converter. If their is a converter somewhere what does that mean? Will the trailer need to be rewired or what?

[billybovine]

Your options are.

1. Rewire the trailer. Find and bypass the converter or diodes in the harness.
2. Buy and build a 3 to 2 converter that goes between the Spyder and trailer.
3. Remove the BRP 4 wire trailer harness from the Spyder and replace with a Show Chrome 5 wire harness.

[Ex-Rocket]

and here I thought this would be easy

[Ex-Rocket]

Is there any chance a converter is stashed under the trailer? My trailer is a 4 wire trailer. My Spyder harness is a ShowChrome 5 wire harness. I stashed a 5 to 4 converter under the trailer, on top of the tounge. I ran a 4 wire loop to the coupler area so I can use either 4 or 5 but if I had not done that, the brakes wouldn't light using 4. The fact you have a red wire in there sounds like a converter exists somewhere.

Lucky YOU are the MAN.:2thumbs::2thumbs: I got to digging into the trailer wiring and I found a 3 to 2 converter buried. Ok, now the question. Can I just cut off the converter and then just match up the wires, white to white, yellow to yellow, green to green and brown to brown? Also took a couple of pictures to show everybody what I got. I found the converter tucked into the tongue area of the trailer. I know I'm not done yet but hopefully their is a light at the end of the tunnel.

143349143350

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Lucky YOU are the MAN.:2thumbs::2thumbs: I got to digging into the trailer wiring and I found a 3 to 2 converter buried. Ok, now the question. Can I just cut off the converter and then just match up the wires, white to white, yellow to yellow, green to green and brown to brown? Also took a couple of pictures to show everybody what I got. I found the converter tucked into the tongue area of the trailer. I know I'm not done yet but hopefully their is a light at the end of the tunnel.

143349143350
It's great you found the culprit! Just cut it out and splice the four to the four and you should be good to go!

[billybovine]

You found the culprit. Just cut it out and match the wire colors. The red will not be needed.

As for wire splices. See how it was done before. With insulated butt connectors. That leaves the connections open to water and can cause corrosion. That can give you trouble down the road. I use butt connectors too, but I fill them with dielectric grease before I crimp them on and cover with heat shrink tubing. That's just a suggestion.

[Lucky]

Glad you found it. As Billybovine said, use dielectric grease or buy marine butt connectors that are pre filled with grease and have longer sleeves. Personally I solder and heat shrink but that's not for everyone. Enjoy your trailer!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You found the culprit. Just cut it out and match the wire colors. The red will not be needed.

As for wire splices. See how it was done before. With insulated butt connectors. That leaves the connections open to water and can cause corrosion. That can give you trouble down the road. I use butt connectors too, but I fill them with dielectric grease before I crimp them on and cover with heat shrink tubing. That's just a suggestion.
I usually solder wires together and seal them with heat shrink tube. Solder is cheaper than connectors, and more guaranteed to have good electrical continuity.

[Ex-Rocket]

I will be soldering the wires and using heat shrink tubing. I want to thank everyone for all their help. I will get back when I get a chance to solder all the wires and make sure all the lights are working. Thanks again.

[4boywonder6]

I bought an old trailer a Goldwinger was getting rid of. My RT has the CAN AM hitch and trailer plug installed by the local dealer. What I don't understand is
how does the Brake/Turn signal work off of the same wire. The old trailer has separate wires for break and turn and the Can Am plug has one wire for both.

I dont want to try and hook up the two until I understand it fully. Any help would be appreciated.

[billybovine]

I bought an old trailer a Goldwinger was getting rid of. My RT has the CAN AM hitch and trailer plug installed by the local dealer. What I don't understand is
how does the Brake/Turn signal work off of the same wire. The old trailer has separate wires for break and turn and the Can Am plug has one wire for both.

I dont want to try and hook up the two until I understand it fully. Any help would be appreciated.

Rear turn signal lights in North America can be red or amber in color since sometime in the 1960s I think. In general most trailers in North America, no matter their size, have red turn signal lights. For some reason makers of trailers to pull behind a motorcycle use amber turn signal lights. This makes motorcycle trailers incompatible with most tow vehicles. Since almost all tow vehicles are wired with combined brake/turn signal wires. When the turn signals are red, there is no need to keep the brake lights and turn signal lights separate on the trailer. So they use the same wire, bulbs and reflector fixture for both brake and turn signal. Less wire, less bulbs, cheaper fixtures.

So as to how brake/turn signal work off the same wire. Very simple. Instead of 3 wires, combining them makes 2 wires, left and right. When the brake is pressed. Both left and right wires are energised and both lights come on. When the turn single is on. Depending on the side, that side flashes.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

For some reason makers of trailers to pull behind a motorcycle use amber turn signal lights. This makes motorcycle trailers incompatible with most tow vehicles.
That's probably because historically trailers were pulled only by big bikes, of which most of the long lasting ones were of Japanese or European origin. Those two countries mostly, if not exclusively, use amber rear turn signals. I suspect the bike designers liked the amber rear turn signals for greater visibility. Hence the trailers were made with amber turn signals to keep the wiring connections to the bike simpler. Compatibility with other tow vehicles was a non-issue since the small trailers would seldom, if ever, be towed by anything other than a motorcycle. In a sense BRP is the one that has bucked the tradition. I wonder why. Maybe North Americans just don't like amber rear turn signals. I wonder if it's a reflection of an attitude, "We didn't have amber turn signals 50 years ago, we don't need them now!"

I like amber rear turn signal lights. I specifically ordered a pair with them when I made my trailer!

[4boywonder6]

so is that what the converter does, takes the single signal and breaks it out to 2, one for brake and one for signal?

[4boywonder6]

so is that what the converter does, takes the single signal and breaks it out to 2, one for brake and one for signal?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

so is that what the converter does, takes the single signal and breaks it out to 2, one for brake and one for signal?
There are several types of units involved in motorcycle trailer wiring. One, and a critically important one, is an isolator. That unit takes the signals from the bike wires to trigger relays or solid state switches that feed power to the trailer lights. The power comes directly from the battery. This protects the bike wiring from any kind of short or other mishap in the trailer wiring. There are two types of isolators. One connects to a bike five wire system, i.e., left turn, right turn, brake, tail, ground and feeds a trailer 5 wire system, left turn, right turn, brake, tail, ground. Another is 5 wires in but converts the 5 wire signals to a 4 wire system, i.e., left turn/brake, right turn/brake, tail, and ground. That is the isolator BRP is using. There is 3 to 2 wire converter available that takes the right turn, left turn, and brake signals from the bike and converts it to left turn/brake, and right turn/brake. The tail and ground wires go around that converter. Another converter does the opposite, takes the left turn/brake and the right turn/brake and changes it to left turn, right turn, and brake. There is a 5 wire to 4 wire converter that does the same thing as the 5 to 4 wire isolator except it does not connect to battery power. To make it more clear, an isolator separates the trailer light wiring from the bike light wiring. A converter simply changes how the turn and brake lights work. The 5 to 4 wire isolator is also a converter.

There is also a 5 to 4 wire converter that is often used to convert 5 wire car lights to 4 wire trailer lights. There's no need to use one on a motorcycle unless you already have a 5 to 5 wire isolator installed and need to convert to 4 wire trailer wiring.

Have I got you confused real good now? :gaah:

[4boywonder6]

Thanks, (I Think) . So the bike wiring is isolated, and the converter will switch the CAN AM brake/turn to separate brake and turn signal in the trailer,

[billybovine]

Thanks, (I Think) . So the bike wiring is isolated, and the converter will switch the CAN AM brake/turn to separate brake and turn signal in the trailer,
.

A 2 to 3 vehicle converter will separate left turn/brake and right turn/brake into left turn, right turn, brake lights.

[4boywonder6]

143567great, thanks for all the info.

[jerrydonna]

could someone tell me what size BALL on the hitch is needed for the Freedom trailer....thanks