ABS Fault

[Rangerrobb]

I have a 2011 RT Limited with less than 10K miles and I recently had this fault show up. I have checked the brake fluid, fuses and battery. I also disconnected and reconnected the battery to see if this would reset it but I had no luck. I have also tried some of the tricks I have read such as turning it off and on 4 times...no help. Rear break groans intermittently when I push it backwards and make so sounds when I push the bike forwards. I can't get it to start as it just re-cycles when I press the starter. ABS and VSS are the two indicators that stay on...does anyone have a suggestion(s)?

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well. let's sift through what's important and what's not. The groaning noise isn't important. It's just what the pads do since their normal wear pattern is based on going forward. The tricks for reseting the faults are just that - tricks - with no actual basis. Forget about that, too.

So then, unless we get it to start, the ECM and other modules will never have the chance to run through all the fault conditions and clear the codes and indications anyway, so that needs to be tackled first. When you say it recycles when you hit the start button - if that means that you see the main display and instruments go through their initial boot up process, then that surely is a voltage problem. You're hitting the start button, the battery voltage is dipping as the starter tries to engage, the display recycles and the starter solenoid drops back out with the starter never cranking. Sound like what's happening?

If so, first check is the battery. If you still have the original 2011 battery, it has served you well. Get it the heck out of there. Don't try to save it. If it is a newer battery, then let's get it on a charger - preferably one with a desulfation mode - overnight. Plus you want to check those battery and ground connections under the seat. Low voltage causes a lot of false fault indications.

Brake fluid wise - there is plenty of info around here regarding adding fluid and how sensitive the sensors are to a slightly low level. Considering that the fluid reservoir slants downhill towards the front of the bike, and the little sensors are in the rear of each chamber, it's obvious why. But I'm not certain fluid level is your issue anyway, but if you've never added any fluid in 10,000 miles, it could be. Bottom line, you need to get it running with normal battery voltage before you can determine if you have a true ABS problem. That will be step one.

[Chupaca]

Usually I find that work has been done with the wheels or brakes and the sensors have been knocked out of adjustment. Some times the connection is lost from running over some debris on the road or stuff has collected in the ABS disc etc. The ABS is all about the sensor and the disc that signals it. I would start there :thumbup:

[Bfromla]

Usually I find that work has been done with the wheels or brakes and the sensors have been knocked out of adjustment. Some times the connection is lost from running over some debris on the road or stuff has collected in the ABS disc etc. The ABS is all about the sensor and the disc that signals it. I would start there :thumbup:
:agree: Sounds more likely:2thumbs:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I agree with Snowbelt. Sounds like the battery is shot. Resolve that problem first by either getting a new battery, put a charger on it with start boost setting, or jump it from a good battery. Unlike most all other vehicles, particularly older ones, a Spyder will not start, period, if the battery voltage drops under 10.5 when you hit the starter button. That really does not give you much leeway for a marginal battery.