SE5 not shifting

[speedster200]

New from BRP as of 05/07/09.
I'm writing this per the dealer internal news letter. YOU can do this mod yourself.

It you encounter an SE5 that gets stuck in any gear, then, after the key is shut off for 2 or more minutes will shift again, we have a simple and permanent solution. Add a ground wire from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the grounding lug on the left side of the frame, and from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the oil cooler mounting bolt just below the coil. You will need 27" of wire to follow the frame and harness and reach the grounding lug, and approximatley 4" to reach the oil cooler mounting bolt. Make sure to securely tie wrap the long wire. 16ga, 18gs, or 20ga wire will work fine. We suggest using black wire for asthetics and to respect the wiring color codes.

This is probably an RFI problem and wouldn't be a bad idea to do on an SM5. The less RFI interferance the better. Thats my 2 cents worth.

[rleathen]

Pictures....can anybody provide pictures of the various items that need to be grounded ??

[Firefly]

New from BRP as of 05/07/09.
I'm writing this per the dealer internal news letter. YOU can do this mod yourself.

It you encounter an SE5 that gets stuck in any gear, then, after the key is shut off for 2 or more minutes will shift again, we have a simple and permanent solution. Add a ground wire from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the grounding lug on the left side of the frame, and from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the oil cooler mounting bolt just below the coil. You will need 27" of wire to follow the frame and harness and reach the grounding lug, and approximatley 4" to reach the oil cooler mounting bolt. Make sure to securely tie wrap the long wire. 16ga, 18gs, or 20ga wire will work fine. We suggest using black wire for asthetics and to respect the wiring color codes.

This is probably an RFI problem and wouldn't be a bad idea to do on an SM5. The less RFI interferance the better. Thats my 2 cents worth.

Interesting. Will dealers be doing this update free of charge? I also agree that if it affects the SE5 it could affect the SM5 - but in a different way.

[bone crusher]

New from BRP as of 05/07/09.
I'm writing this per the dealer internal news letter. YOU can do this mod yourself.

It you encounter an SE5 that gets stuck in any gear, then, after the key is shut off for 2 or more minutes will shift again, we have a simple and permanent solution. Add a ground wire from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the grounding lug on the left side of the frame, and from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the oil cooler mounting bolt just below the coil. You will need 27" of wire to follow the frame and harness and reach the grounding lug, and approximatley 4" to reach the oil cooler mounting bolt. Make sure to securely tie wrap the long wire. 16ga, 18gs, or 20ga wire will work fine. We suggest using black wire for asthetics and to respect the wiring color codes.

This is probably an RFI problem and wouldn't be a bad idea to do on an SM5. The less RFI interferance the better. Thats my 2 cents worth.

What a mess...BRP...argh!

I don't know how this would affect the SM5...but hopefully it will help the SE5s...the dealers should be doing this for free...and hence, take the responsibility...if you do it yourself and have a problem, I don't know how the dealers will respond...

[bjt]

This sounds like an easy thing to do. Just a few pics of the location of exact mounting screws they are talking about would make this a "no brainer". Definitely couldn't hurt to be done on any Spyder whether they are having related issues or not.

[Lamonster]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...5327#post95327

[speedster200]

Talked to tech support and SE5s will be covered under warranty. SM5s will be on a case by case basis. Now not all dealers treat the spyder as a priority. With that being said, IF the dealer doesn't know about it, it has been posted under the 05/07/09 whats news section of BOSSWEB. FYI BOSSWEBB is the dealer direct website that is not available to the public.

[GaryTheBadger]

I did this mod last week and its fairly easy, figure two hours total. Everything is easy to access after removing four left-side body panels. You then disconnect the battery ground wire, construct the 27in and 5in wires (with lugs crimped and soldered onto the ends - my recommendation), install them per the next paragraph, reconnect the battery and replace all the body panels.

There is only one bolt holding the spark plug coil (just above the oil tank) to the frame, that's the one you attach both wires to, then the other end of the short wire goes down to the nearest oil cooler mounting bolt, the end of the longer wire goes forward and down to the master ground on the center frame rail, just ahead of the steering shaft. With the body panels off, this is all easy to see.

Its too soon to tell if it fixed the problem on my Spyder, it took until about 1500 miles before it stuck in gear for the first time, and I've only put on 100 miles since the wires were added.

I was also assured that by doing this BRP-recommended modification myself, I would not void the warranty. (If it works, I just saved BRP money, so they should continue my warranty!)

[bone crusher]

Talked to tech support and SE5s will be covered under warranty. SM5s will be on a case by case basis. Now not all dealers treat the spyder as a priority. With that being said, IF the dealer doesn't know about it, it has been posted under the 05/07/09 whats news section of BOSSWEB. FYI BOSSWEBB is the dealer direct website that is not available to the public.

Do SM5s even need this? I understand the SE5s need it done, but for the SM5s...case-by-case basis...what would we look for?

[Firefly]

Do SM5s even need this? I understand the SE5s need it done, but for the SM5s...case-by-case basis...what would we look for?

While they apparently don't 'need' this mod done - you're not gonna hurt anything by doing it. Obviously an SM5 isn't going to get stuck in gear, but other erratic problems that could be due to electrical 'noise' might be helped by this simple mod.

I'm in no hurry to do it, but next time I haver all the panels off I'll do it.

[bone crusher]

While they apparently don't 'need' this mod done - you're not gonna hurt anything by doing it. Obviously an SM5 isn't going to get stuck in gear, but other erratic problems that could be due to electrical 'noise' might be helped by this simple mod.

I'm in no hurry to do it, but next time I haver all the panels off I'll do it.

That makes sense...I'll print out this thread and take with me to the dealership...certainly, they should have this bulletin and be more than willing to do this for me...doesn't look like it will take too long either...

[speedster200]

Here are some pics.
First pic shows the ground wires at the coil pack, and the wire to the oil cooler mount. Remember to clear the paint off of the oil tank for a good ground.

Second pic shows the chassis ground. There are 3 wires to it and there is also a star ground washer. It is at the frame member that the steering column passes through.

Third pic is a better side view of the chassis ground. run the wire to the frame and through the existing wire ties along the frame. Be mindful of the exhaust, keep the wires away.

[ataDude]

Thanks for the pics!
.

Here are some pics.
First pic shows the ground wires at the coil pack, and the wire to the oil cooler mount. Remember to clear the paint off of the oil tank for a good ground.

Second pic shows the chassis ground. There are 3 wires to it and there is also a star ground washer. It is at the frame member that the steering column passes through.

Third pic is a better side view of the chassis ground. run the wire to the frame and through the existing wire ties along the frame. Be mindful of the exhaust, keep the wires away.

[bjt]

Thanks for the pics!
.

+1

[aubierules]

+1

+ 2

[rleathen]

Question regarding the grounding lug. On the SE5 where the ignition coil is found, it (the ignition coil) is attached to a bracket with that bracket mounted to a cylindrical frame member with a bolt (not the same bolt that the 27" wire and the 4" wire is attached to). Using a multimeter I checked and the negative battery post, the grounding lug on the side of the main frame and the ignition coil MOUNTING BRACKET bolt are all the same electrical point (0 resistance between the negative battery post and the grounding lug on the main frame, 0 resistance between the negative battery post and the ignition coil mounting bracket bolt and 0 resistance between the main grounding lug on the main frame and the ignition coil mounting bracket bolt).

With this in mind can the 27" wire that is supposed to go from the ignition coil mounting bolt to the grounding lug on the frame go to the mounting bracket bolt that is attached to the cylindrical frame member ?

EASIER MORE SIMPLE QUESTION FOLLOWS

In more simple terms instead of using the grounding lug on the side of the main frame rail can I use any bolt on any frame member that might be closer to the ignition coil and oil cooler since any point along any frame member is the same electrical point as the grounding lug on the main frame rail?

[speedster200]

You can ground it to any place on the frame or engine. It's a cleaned look having everything grounded at one point. It's the wire geek coming out in me.

[rleathen]

That is what I thought. I asked because to place the 27" wire end terminal connector (with the complete circle connector end) you have to totally remove the nut that backs the grounding bolt. Dealing with access to the nut is just a bit challenging. Thinking of making the task easier, I saw the bracket bolt situated right there above ignition coil and thought using that would make the task easier.

Thanks.

[Lamonster]

I'm not sure why you guys are running two wires for the ground.
Ground is ground right?

[nater1]

My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.

[Dudley]

My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.

Did you have the problem before the service?

[ataDude]

My bike has less than 1000 miles, and just had its 500 mile service. It is having the explained problem as well so I did this grounding solution which did not help. The problem has gotten worse in the last 50 miles now missing down shifts,keeping RPMs up, and screwing up as above. I plan to take to dealer Tue. I have read the tech book over, and believe it is a bad gear box sensor. The TPS, and the GBPS have a lot to do with this also so this is where I stand. I need to obtain the BUD dia tool for my laptop to look at this stuff my self as well.

I wish the tech guide had a adjustment procedure for various sensors that did not require a PC. I wish it would be based on voltage that could be monitored with a DMM.

If the cause is a generation one Gearbox Position Sensor (the solder problem, which can cause intermittent steering issues, idle problems and long-time-to-warm-up), it does not leave error codes. There is no telling what else is affected on an SE.

Because a bad GPS apparently does not leave error codes, it is difficult to diagnose. The only real way to test it, is to replace the sensor. My dealer has replaced upwards of eight, not including mine.

See my experiences here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7831

BTW, to my knowledge, no one has yet successfully hi-jacked a copy of the BUDDS software and penetrated the BRP network (which would be illegal, BTW).
.

[nater1]

I thought German engineering was the best so when I purchased it I felt comfortable. Now 1000 mile later, and reading the bs I want to enjoy my purchase and have the ability to find a solution to my problem with out being **** up a creek. The BUDs would do that for me. If Can Am wants to keep tech software under lock then they will need to provide same day repair service on the spot. If not I will start my campaign to get ride of my Spyder by pushing my States lemon law of three strikes, and I get my money back rule. I did that with a Jeeps paint job one time so I know that system.
I really want is a enjoyable purchase, were I feel comfortable not having to have a wrecker follow me around to recovery me, and deliver me to a dealer. Then have to wait a week to get repairs as I purchase air line tickets to get home, and then fly back to pick my bike up. FTS life is to short for games that last so I will push the button now, and get strike number one out of the way. If it is not fixed then go for strike two, and the strike three to get my $17,000 back.

Can am would be better to sell me a $400 software package then have me wrap the independent dealer network who could give a dam.

[speedster200]

Rode 300 miles today no problems what so ever. I didn't have any problems before the bulletin. I just did it as a precaution.

[jimmar]

Bow Cycle from Calgary delivered my SE5 back to me on Saturday after having it for two weeks they fixed the locking up in gear problem by running ground wires. Ive ridden it for 3 days now without any problems, fingers crossed this is the end of the nightmare. They replaced my squeaky brakes as well but the new brakes still squeak ????. Thaks to BJ from Bow Cycle, I know he went the extra mile for me.