Our 2014 RT Limited's ACS system started giving us problems about a week ago. Started out with the compressor making quite a racket each time it ran and it was running very frequently. When we returned home I checked the pressure in the system via the schrader valve under the seat. Now this was maybe 15 minutes after shutting the bike down. Pressure = 0 psi. Not good.
I added 40 psi via garage compressor. Twenty minutes later, 6 psi. Not good. Removed side panels to gain sight access to the area of ACS components (top of swing arm, in front of rear shock). Grabbed a spray bottle filled with soapy water that I use to check for leaks and sprayed all air hose connections that I could see. Put another 40 psi charge into ACS. Could see no bubbles. Now from the side one can not see the top of the air spring. So I'm thinking the loss of air is either the air spring or the check valve on the compressor (as that would allow the leaking air to escape back into the compressor and not show any exterior bubbles).
Trying to get more information I started the bike, released the parking brake and put it into first gear. This should have initiated the ACS to operate. The compressor did not start pumping. System pressure stayed at 0 psi. So I figure the compressor has burnt up from running nonstop attempting to build pressure into a leaking system.
So I order a new air spring and check valve from my dealer and a Rock Guard from Doc Humphreys. Figured I would access the compressors status and may be able to rebuild it or, if I could not rebuild it I would order one from a third party. Doc had mentioned one in a post here on the forum.
So I start the tear down to get to all the involved components. I followed, pretty much, the tear down process shown in the videos that Doc has posted on his web site (dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install). Thanks Doc! When I got the air spring out I submersed it in my ultrasonic cleaner as it is filled with soapy water and just blew a bit of air into it. No bubbles. Need to put the garage compressor on it and get it up to 80 - 100 psi as I had not yet done a real test of its integrity.
Pulled the compressor out and removed the check valve off of it. Blew in one end, OK, blew right through. Blew in other end, blew right through. Not good. Tossed it in the ultrasonic for 10 minutes. Blew in that last end again, no air through. Check valve seems to have been stuck open. Loss of air may have been back through it into the compressor and could account for eventual malfunction of compressor.
Pulled the inspection plate off of the compressor to see if I could identify the source of the noise we had heard before it seemed to give up the ghost. No wonder it was now quiet and not producing compressed air, the connecting arm to piston had come off of the motors shaft. Appeared the set screw had backed off and left the assembly to disassemble. Put 12 V on the leads and the motor ran smoothly.
But no amount of pressure would let me move that set screw either in or out. Rounded off two 2.5 mm allen wrenches trying to tighten it up and/or remove it.
So today I will pressurize the original air spring to confirm its integrity, clean up the areas on the bike to prepare for reassembly and order the third party compressor from Amazon.
Here's a few photos from yesterdays efforts.
Doc's Rock Guard, New Air Spring, original air spring with air hose still attached to mounting bracket IMAG0735a.jpg
Original air spring extended to show accumulation of debris at top of unit. Bottom of unit looks good. Still needs to be pressure tested. IMAG0734a.jpg
Here's a video showing the way I did the project. I came in from the top. My compressor had the same issue. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5NR_LY7u8eY
I ended up replacing the compressor with an aftermarket.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
So today I will pressurize the original air spring to confirm its integrity, clean up the areas on the bike to prepare for reassembly and order the third party compressor from Amazon.
You've probably already tested it but be careful how much air pressure you put into the unrestrained air bag. I wouldn't trust it to safely hold the max pressure when it's not installed.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
Hey, guys, I'm having trouble with my suspension/compressor making that annoying racket . One question: Should this be a warranty issue? I do have the Best Extended Warranty that is still within the active coverage date. What do you think?
Mark in GA
2014 Cognac Spyder RT Limited - SOLD
2014 Cognac RT-622 Trailer - SOLD
Hey, guys, I'm having trouble with my suspension/compressor making that annoying racket . One question: Should this be a warranty issue? I do have the Best Extended Warranty that is still within the active coverage date. What do you think?
Let the dealer fix it. Should cost you only the $50 deductible.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
had my compressor replaced back the end of april. they are finding the check valves
gummed up, and are replacing them with the compressor. this may be part of the
reason the motors are failing fast. service manager keeps telling me they upgraded
the compressor, but brp rep last fall at johnson creek didnt know anything about it.
--irv
2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
and some little stuff. setback utopia backrest, baja ron
sway bar, oem adj. air deflectors, marlin gps compass,
lamonster fbb foot pegs[modified brackets], lamonts
vibration damper, rock guard, and side case stiffener kit,
. brp comfort seat. , fomozas and
altimax, magic mirror mts, and wide mirrors.
[joyce & irvin toms]
Thanks all for sharing, I discovered I had a gradually worsening ACS leak down, today I pulled the trunk off my '13 Spyder and tada, leaking Check valve, (BRP part number 706000831). Cleaned it, leak checked it off the bike, no leakdown, replaced it on the bike and repressurized the system and am now impatiently waiting to see if it holds pressure, it's already held better than last week...
Check Valve 706000831 connects to the ACS compressor pump outlet and looks like this off the bike,
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020
Thanks all for sharing, I discovered I had a gradually worsening ACS leak down, today I pulled the trunk off my '13 Spyder and tada, leaking Check valve, (BRP part number 706000831). Cleaned it, leak checked it off the bike, no leakdown, replaced it on the bike and repressurized the system and am now impatiently waiting to see if it holds pressure, it's already held better than last week...
Check Valve 706000831 connects to the ACS compressor pump outlet and looks like this off the bike,
Ours acted up also, check valve was fouled up from crud. Cleaned and reinstalled with good results, then upgraded to a stainless steel check valve, so far so good.
Ours acted up also, check valve was fouled up from crud. Cleaned and reinstalled with good results, then upgraded to a stainless steel check valve, so far so good.
Mine is leaking slightly too. Air bag will go flat after about 2 weeks. Very slow leak and I am sure it is this valve.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
Bob, I think that's how my '13 was from the day I bought it used in '16, just a real slow leak that our rides topped off until it sat for too long. I now think it's why my HF jack didn't fit until I added air manually giving it a 2 inch lift (since it was likely very low or empty at the time). Pretty easy fix once you can get to the checkvalve.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020