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Bouncing Fuel needle on 2011 Spyder RT
I have a 2011 Spyder Rt Limited and my fuel needle bounces alot. Suggestions?
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by jimbombeck
I have a 2011 Spyder Rt Limited and my fuel needle bounces alot. Suggestions?
If you dis-connect it ..... the gauge will become a bar graph shown on the instrument cluster ..... most folks here prefer that ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
If you disconnect both gauges as stated above, you can replace the gauges with two other devices, like a clock and a 12V accessory socket or USB socket.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
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Disconnected mine and got two blanks to go into the holes from BRP, I like the digital gauge better, works for me!
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Disconnected the analogs on both our RTs and replaced them with a voltmeter on the right and a dual USB port on the left. Much nicer and the digital gauges are more accurate as others have said.
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so where exactly do the digital gauges show up on the bike?
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Very Active Member
It will be on both sides of your display screen!! One on one side, one on the other, you'll see!
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Originally Posted by jimbombeck
so where exactly do the digital gauges show up on the bike?
They show up as vertical bar graphs on the left and right of the digital speedometer. Fuel on the right, temperature on the left.
Trb-- (Roger)
2014 Cognac STL:Ultimate Seat, Nelson Rigg Tail Pack, Nelson Rigg RS/ST Half Cover, TL fender lights, Squared Away Laser Alignment, BajaRon sway bar and links, Akropovic Sport Silencer
2022 White Pearl F3T
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I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?
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With out being there, you may have a bad sending unit in the tank! Any one else???
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Originally Posted by lt538
I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?
That is a new glitch for me. So far, the fix has worked for everyone that has done it. Sounds like "other" problems. Did you try re-booting by using the start-up procedure again? It would be nice if it worked the "second or third" try. Fingers crossed for you.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Originally Posted by lt538
I disconnected both gauges. Both are displayed digitally. However, the temp gauge shows bars. The fuel gauge is not working and the "fuel pump" light is displayed. Any suggestions?
How much gas is in the tank?
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
This is the main thing i used to hate on my Spyder..
2012 Spyder RT Limited Lava Bronze (Psalm 27:1;Luke 12:4,5)
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It has 11miles since I filled up.
The needle would bounce slightly when I filled up. Then it would bounce more as the miles increased.
The "gas pump" light is intermittent.
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I did restart twice. No change
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Just out of curiousity (and I'm guessing the answer is "yes"), does this work for all pre-'18 F3s (with the full gauge package). Mr. traveler mentioned 2010 and 2011. I plan on buying a 2018 or newer F3 so it won't matter but would be good info to have if I found a screaming deal on a '16 or '17, I guess.
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Originally Posted by MONK
Just out of curiousity (and I'm guessing the answer is "yes"), does this work for all pre-'18 F3s (with the full gauge package). Mr. traveler mentioned 2010 and 2011. I plan on buying a 2018 or newer F3 so it won't matter but would be good info to have if I found a screaming deal on a '16 or '17, I guess.
My actual knowledge is with the RT 2010 and 2011's. I did the changeover successfully on both. Not needed on my 2014 RT...where the analog gauges are rock solid.
I am new to the F3 as of December 2019. I am happy with the gauges as they are. Hopefully, an F3 user can give you a better answer to your question.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Originally Posted by lt538
It has 11miles since I filled up.
The needle would bounce slightly when I filled up. Then it would bounce more as the miles increased.
The "gas pump" light is intermittent.
It is indeed strange. As long as ALL of the wires were disconnected from BOTH of the gauges and you are getting this issue, I suppose if it was me, I would put it back the way it was and see if the gas gauge returned to indicating the correct level when not moving. That would narrow it down to being a sender problem or not. In model year 2012, a new gauge was developed that had some mechanical dampening in the meter movement. You'd still get swings in the gauge during braking and maneuvering, but not as severe as earlier years. After all, the level in the tank is, in fact, sloshing around. There were still complaints about their accuracy at the low end. The gas gauge is not something to stare at anyway. Using the trip odometer, stop about every 120 miles-ish. The Low Fuel light - what you're calling the gas pump light - is independent of the gauge and is usually spot on.
I recall that you had some other electrical issue with a brake code. What's up with that, although I"m not making any connection between the two as of yet.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Tried suggestions, I can ride about 10 miles when it goes into limp home mode and flashes spyder light. Check engine light stays on. Next trip is on a trailer to the dealer.
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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
.....I recall that you had some other electrical issue with a brake code. What's up with that, although I"m not making any connection between the two as of yet.
Update on P0504 code. Spyder has been at the dealer since Sept 12. Service Manager called and said "you as re not riding enough, the pistons on the brake calipers are not retracting fully after brake pedal release. Serviced the calipers, pistons and flushed brake fluid. Problem solved.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-05-2020 at 06:50 PM.
Reason: Quote fixed
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Originally Posted by MONK
Just out of curiousity (and I'm guessing the answer is "yes"), does this work for all pre-'18 F3s (with the full gauge package).
Sorry, don't know about the F3s, but I can verify that it works on a '17 RT-S.
Originally Posted by lt538
Tried suggestions, I can ride about 10 miles when it goes into limp home mode and flashes spyder light. Check engine light stays on. Next trip is on a trailer to the dealer.
Originally Posted by lt538
Update on P0504 code. Spyder has been at the dealer since Sept 12. Service Manager called and said "you as re not riding enough, the pistons on the brake calipers are not retracting fully after brake pedal release. Serviced the calipers, pistons and flushed brake fluid. Problem solved.
Uhhh, this thread has been about a gas gauge issue, not about error codes or brakes.
Maybe you responded in the wrong thread?
.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-05-2020 at 07:02 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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I can see now where it got derailed.
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HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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