Bump Skid installation disaster

[armyspydervet]

Why not?
Some of the best stories often start with:
"You're not gonna believe what just happened..."

All my best stories start with, "hold my beer, watch this!"

[Rattlebars]

Step one: Drilling plastic, don't use a conventional drill bit, it will run on you.

Step two: Use a step drill. >CLICK ME<

stepdrill.jpg

[Bob Denman]

All my best stories start with, "hold my beer, watch this!"

No GREAT Story.jpg

[Gcclubs]

You need to remove the bottom covers so you can see what you are drilling. A screw and a few push pins on each one.

this is the first I have heard to remove any covers? Do you mean the two either side if the main frame or the one under the frunk?

[Sccar]

this is the first I have heard to remove any covers? Do you mean the two either side if the main frame or the one under the frunk?

Does this thing not come with directions?

[Gcclubs]

Does this thing not come with directions?

Yes there are directions but it does NOT say to remove any of the bottom pans. The pictures just say you need to drill into the frame but the predrilled holes in the skid plate appear to be outside the center frame thus the reason for my question. I can't find any online photos of the bottom of the frame with pans removed to tell if the bottom center frame t's out as I asked in my question above. I need someone to confirm 1) I don't need to remove the pans that are on the side of the center frame 2) is there any tricks to remove the pan below the frunk and 3) my primary question can someone confirm that the predrilled holes in the bumpskid that are to go into the frame seem to be outside the center frame but that the frame does in fact t out

[Pat Clark]

Yes there are directions but it does NOT say to remove any of the bottom pans. The pictures just say you need to drill into the frame but the predrilled holes in the skid plate appear to be outside the center frame thus the reason for my question. I can't find any online photos of the bottom of the frame with pans removed to tell if the bottom center frame t's out as I asked in my question above. I need someone to confirm 1) I don't need to remove the pans that are on the side of the center frame 2) is there any tricks to remove the pan below the frunk and 3) my primary question can someone confirm that the predrilled holes in the bumpskid that are to go into the frame seem to be outside the center frame but that the frame does in fact t out

No panels need to be removed on the F3. All but two of the holes are drilled through the plastic nose piece. The two most rearward holes have to be drilled into the frame. This frame is light gage steel.
As the instructions say, you must remove the two bolts shown and use the kits two long bolts to hold the skid up to use as a template to drill all the rest of the holes. Then remove the SKID and place the clips on the bike where you drilled the holes and re-install the skid plate..... BE CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING THE HOLES ON THE OUTSIDE EDGE SO AS NOT TO NICK THE RADIATOR. Make sure you drill perfectly straight. The higher you can get the bike in the air the easier this will be. I used my ramps and a right angle drill.

Pat

[deer30084]

So if I hit something with my bumpskid, it will be pushed back, not only ruining the bumpskid, but pushing back all the bolts, ruining the holes I drilled and ruining the frame. Then to fix everything, I have to remove the bumpskid, the damaged bolts and the damaged parts I drilled into. After that, I view the damaged, enlarged bolt holes, scratch my head and take it to a shop because the repair job is too big for me.

[Highwayman2013]

So if I hit something with my bumpskid, it will be pushed back, not only ruining the bumpskid, but pushing back all the bolts, ruining the holes I drilled and ruining the frame. Then to fix everything, I have to remove the bumpskid, the damaged bolts and the damaged parts I drilled into. After that, I view the damaged, enlarged bolt holes, scratch my head and take it to a shop because the repair job is too big for me.

Or you could just hit something with the frunk and see how much damage that causes.

[Gcclubs]

No panels need to be removed on the F3. All but two of the holes are drilled through the plastic nose piece. The two most rearward holes have to be drilled into the frame. This frame is light gage steel.
As the instructions say, you must remove the two bolts shown and use the kits two long bolts to hold the skid up to use as a template to drill all the rest of the holes. Then remove the SKID and place the clips on the bike where you drilled the holes and re-install the skid plate..... BE CAREFUL WHEN DRILLING THE HOLES ON THE OUTSIDE EDGE SO AS NOT TO NICK THE RADIATOR. Make sure you drill perfectly straight. The higher you can get the bike in the air the easier this will be. I used my ramps and a right angle drill.

Pat

Thanks Pat. It seems the existing skid plate will make it difficult to get the clips on? Any hints you have on the front?

[JKMSPYDER]

While installing the bump skid on my F3 last year I found it easier to remove the two plastic panels under the trunk before installation. I had to really get under the Spyder while on ramps to find all the push pins and screws that needed to come out. Once that was done the holes in the frame were already there for the two farthest rear holes on the bump skid. The only drilling I had to do was thru the remaining holes on the skid as a template.

[Pat Clark]

Thanks Pat. It seems the existing skid plate will make it difficult to get the clips on? Any hints you have on the front?

Putting the clips on wasn't a problem. There is enough flex on the plastic that they just slide on. Use a phillips screw driver or a punch to align them with the holes. Put the skid up with the same two long bolts you used in the begining and start all the screws before you tighten any of them. You probably will need to clamp up the front with your fingers to get some of the front screws to start.
If I hadn't been a boob and nicked my radiator the whole thing would have taken an hour.

Pat

[Gcclubs]

While installing the bump skid on my F3 last year I found it easier to remove the two plastic panels under the trunk before installation. I had to really get under the Spyder while on ramps to find all the push pins and screws that needed to come out. Once that was done the holes in the frame were already there for the two farthest rear holes on the bump skid. The only drilling I had to do was thru the remaining holes on the skid as a template.

Are you saying you didn't have to drill thru the frame?

[cyclelover63]

Really? I hit the nose on the driveway of the gas station the second time we had ours out.

We had ours installed at Spyderfest in 2013,left Spyderpops and hit one of those big steel lids at the gas station they use to fill their tanks..I know I would have hurt something if it wasn't on there.

[Blue Star]

Honestly, I fail to see the need for a bump skid. After over 4,000 miles on my F3, I haven't bumped anything or skid on anything.

Did this with 425 miles on the Spyder. Scrap at 425 miles 2.jpg Not really that much damage, but I know it is there.
Also these are the holes that are drilled into the plastic before installing the Bumpskid.

[Pat Clark]

Are you saying you didn't have to drill thru the frame?

You must drill the furthest rearward two hole into the frame. It's not the main frame, it's some kind a of light gage steel cross-member. No big deal.

Pat

[JKMSPYDER]

If you remove the two plastic pans under the trunk before installation, the holes are already there for the two rearward holes in the bumpskid. No drilling required. You still have to drill the other holes using the skid as a guide. I know, because I did it. The instructions do not mention removing the plastic pans, but it makes the job a lot easier. Trust me on this!

[deer30084]

Or you could just hit something with the frunk and see how much damage that causes.

Or, I could be careful and not hit anything.

[Bob Denman]

I hope that you never do hit anything...
But they are called "accidents" for a pretty good reason.

[Highwayman2013]

Or, I could be careful and not hit anything.

Good luck with that.

[PMK]

My wife always cautions me about drilling to mount stuff. No, not misdrilling a hole, but rather ever since she had to take the training course on car damage for cars that go through her work, any hole drilled into the frame of a vehicle is considered frame damage.

While the holes may seem insignificant, whether on a car, truck or other vehicle, once drilled and if noted, the vehicle now is listed as having frame damage. In a worse case, it can change the title when sold to salvage. Crazy but true. Always whenever possible use existing holes or drill into items that are attached to the main frame and can be replaced.

if you do drill holes, make it appear as if it was there when manufactured.

[Bob Denman]

if you do drill holes, make it appear as if it was there when manufactured.

Good point...
On the off-chance that it's noticed: "It was always there!", should be your response.

[Gcclubs]

First off everyone thank you for your helpful tips. For the next person doing this job here are a couple additional things that I think would be useful:

- I used a new brad point wood bit for drilling thru all the plastic. It has a very pointy tip that starts the hole well
- I used a battery powered drill on low for drilling thru all the plastic and went slowly. I also taped off the drill bit to act as a stop so I couldn't go to deep (thanks to someone in the string above for that suggestion)
- Before I drilled all the holes thru into the plastic lip I took two Quick Grip bar clamps - sort of look like a large c clamp but with rubber protectors on the ends and put them below the bump skid and up the front onto a lip on the grill. I then slowly tighten those up. that brought the bump slid right up to the bottom of the frunk so that I didn't have to try and hold it up while drilling. I believe it also ensured that the hole angles matched those on the bump skid perfectly.
- I did small pilot holes or at least started them and then took off the bump skid when drilling into the frame at the back of the bump skid. I used a brand new steel drill bit. I drilled the rest of the way thru the frame after removing the bump skid as it was easier to see what I was doing. I did a 1/8 inch hole first and followed with a 1/4 - took very little time to drill thru the metal.
- the clips went on easily with just using my hands to push the frunk lip a bit to allow the clips to clear the plastic pan under the frunk
- attached the two original bolts that you use at the start to secure the bumpskid as a drilling guide. Only put these in 1/2 way. Then I put all the other bolts in loosely. I once again used the Quick Grip clamps again to suck the bump skip up to the frunk and then tightened everything up from the center outwards. Whole thing took about 1 hour to do and about 3 hours sweating the details in advance

I am sure I could have done the above without the grip ads but they just seemed to make things easy to align and each bolt went in without a fight.

If anyone has any questions let me know.

PS: I really like the look as it seems to finish off the frunk area with that low spoiler look that I happen to like. May not be everyones cup of tea but hey beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It is very well made and finished product in my opinion.

[kngfsh27]

Honestly, I fail to see the need for a bump skid. After over 4,000 miles on my F3, I haven't bumped anything or skid on anything.

If you ride on completely flat roads there is absolutely no need for a bumpskid. I thought the same thing but it was the first addition to my Spyder. When I sold it, the bumpskid was beat to h***.