Questions regarding trailer hitch & module for 2015 RTS

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

Billybovine,

What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
Al in Kazoo

The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.

[Haze]

Here is a posting that shows how to replace the BRP Module if it fails. He ultimately changed from Hopkins Module to a Curt unit with success.
See the https://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/2013-spyder-st-hitch-converter-replacement/ link for a detailed description of that first replacement.

[billybovine]

The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.

.

Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

.

Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

[billybovine]

You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

[billybovine]

ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

.

Of course there is no fuse between the cluster and the lights. That would be the wrong place for the fuse. That would leave the cluster unprotected in case of short between it and the fuse. The fuse is where it should be on a negative ground system. Between the positive source and the cluster. As mentioned a couple posts above. In case of the 2013 RT and ST that is the 15 amp fuse F1 in the Left Fuse Box. I also took another look at the hazard lights. The switch is on another fuse but that is signal voltage for the cluster and not power for the lights.

[5legsshort]

We have the same bike you have (2015 RT-S) and an Aluma trailer (2010 year), I installed these with the greatest of ease, and works perfectly !

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