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Registered Users
Lamont have you replaced yours yet? Mine feel fine at 10500 miles when will this be an issue in your opinion?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by jedd
Lamont have you replaced yours yet? Mine feel fine at 10500 miles when will this be an issue in your opinion?
I had one spin in the hub at 36,000 miles. The others seem to be fine.
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Registered Users
Cool thanks I'll just keep an eye on em'
Thanks, Jim
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Very Active Member
Just got a call from the dealer telling me that they have the "outer" bearing, but not the other two and that they are backordered until the 26th. He said that the bearings look good and we gave him the okay to replace the "outer" bearing. He tells me it's $22 for this part that they do have.
Do you think I'm running a risk of bearing failure if I let the other other two go until after my 6000 mile trip? I have 15K miles now.
Any information would be helpful.
Last edited by SpyderGirl; 08-13-2009 at 01:54 PM.
We are a happy THREE Spyder family! My Rides: 2008 Quantum Blue Premier Edition Spyder GS SM5 (#1344)
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The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.
Last edited by capt.jim; 04-08-2010 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: add more
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by capt.jim
The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.
That's way too much for that bearing--- if we're talking about the same one -- here are the OEM bearings and prices:
The Wheel:
Product Number: 293350055
Description: BALL BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed Order
Unit Price: $7.49
The Hub:
Product Number: 293350065
Description: *BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed
Unit Price: $18.49
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Registered Users
Has anyone got the dimensions...
Has anyone got the dimensions for the larger pulley bearing.
I am fitting a new rear tyre next week and I will change the bearings at the same time. Is the bearing number 5106
Thanks
Andrew Gaze
2008 Full Moon SM5 PE#979
I am one very happy owner
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Originally Posted by capt.jim
The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.
All I'll say is that I know someone who replaced the front wheel bearing on his GMC pickup 3 times in 6 months, they were all made by National (made in China). I realize it's apples to oranges, but just sayin'.
Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
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3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!
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Originally Posted by capt.jim
3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!
Yep over tightening. Been there once. live and learn.
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Originally Posted by capt.jim
3 times in 6 months?, he had another problem or was overtightening them or something, no bearing should go bad that quickly. I would have switched brands after the first time, certainly after the second!
These were sealed hub units that can't be over tightened. He used the same brand because the parts store was replacing them under warranty. He eventually switched to a Timkin unit that hasn't been a problem.
Happy 2009 Roadster Red SM5 Owner
Two Brothers Dual Exhaust w/P1X Tips | Two Brothers Juice Box | KewlMetal Intake | Amber Fender Tip Lights | Fog Lights | SilverStar Headlights | Trunk Liner | 12v Acc. Plug | BRP Comfort Seat
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Registered Users
If anyone happens to have a ....
GL1500 rear wheel bearing set handy. They might be the same... don't have any on the bench or cabinet but if memory is working today... it seems one of the rears was a wide big bearing and the other was a smaller one. I just dumped my junk bucket and the old ones went to scrap metal. Boy I wish I had measured it. The last time I bought one of them it was about 50 bucks and they were good quality Japanese bearings... made in Japan. /Ken
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Very Active Member
rear seal
Does anybody know if non-genuine seals are available or have the dimensions of them or p/n? Thanks.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Has it been determined if aftermarket rear wheel bearings are better than OEM? If so, is there a current list of the recommended aftermarket replacement parts for a complete rear wheel bearing R&R?
Should all the seals and o-rings be replaced at the same time as well? Any special tools required for bearing or seal pulling (as the service manual states)?
Anything else we need to know?
Time estimate start-to-finish for someone mechanically saavy?
This is all for a 2008 GS.
Last edited by GaryTheBadger; 07-10-2011 at 10:14 AM.
Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers
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Very Active Member
rear bearings & seals-aftermarket
Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.
Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size
Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm
The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)
Edit: and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.
Last edited by Freddy; 05-24-2013 at 05:17 AM.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Thanks Freddy...that's exactly what I was looking for!
Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers
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Very Active Member
Follow-up question
Follow-up question: Where you call for three O-rings 15IDx3mm, I can only find two of them in the BRP on-line parts catalog (two of that type, one of the other type, three total O-rings) What am I missing?
Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers
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Very Active Member
ps
Originally Posted by GaryTheBadger
Follow-up question: Where you call for three O-rings 15IDx3mm, I can only find two of them in the BRP on-line parts catalog (two of that type, one of the other type, three total O-rings) What am I missing?
Sorry, I don't recall - maybe it's just 2 and I mistakenly typed 3 - you'll see when you dismantle. By the way, I used Loctite 680 and primer when installing the large pulley bearing as there is about 0.5mm movement against the circlip. I'm pretty sure that the clicking noise I heard was the bearing moving within that space as it's a slip fit in the pulley. Others have described the noise elsewhere here.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Resurrecting an old thread...
Spyder needs a new rear tire and it has 23K miles. I also need an oil change and I was going to order the filter, crush washer, and whatever bearings I need from our new sponsor, Honda East Toledo.
Should I go ahead and do the wheel bearings at 24K? How much money roughly for the part(s)? What parts would I need to order?
Thanks in advance,
David
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Active Member
Sure would be nice to have some step by step pics or video on how to do this.
Thanks
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Very Active Member
I should have read the manual and had mine done at time the rear tire was installed but didn't, so my question is; does these bearings give some "warning" noise, or other indication, before they fail entirely? Its not something I could do and its gonna be a long time before another rear tire is needed. I have nearly 17K on the RT, and 6K on the tire.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Spyder Monkey
Resurrecting an old thread...
Spyder needs a new rear tire and it has 23K miles. I also need an oil change and I was going to order the filter, crush washer, and whatever bearings I need from our new sponsor, Honda East Toledo.
Should I go ahead and do the wheel bearings at 24K? How much money roughly for the part(s)? What parts would I need to order?
Thanks in advance,
David
i just bought them for a 2011 rt-s rear wheel bearings, seals and oring. for $69.00. when i took the rear wheel off icould spin the sproket bearing, but could not spin the wheel bearings so i took it to the dealer and he replaced them under warrentee. 11,500 miles
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Very Active Member
Is there a cross for American made bearings?
I've read this whole thread which started way back, but didn't see any ref to U.S. made bearings. Has anyone come up with anything they can share? I'd like to get a full set, with seals, for sprocket and wheel and have them on hand.
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OK, here's what I've got.....
Originally Posted by ulflyer
I've read this whole thread which started way back, but didn't see any ref to U.S. made bearings. Has anyone come up with anything they can share? I'd like to get a full set, with seals, for sprocket and wheel and have them on hand.
Sprocket bearing(1,wide)- KYK 5006-2RS, made in Japan
Hub bearings(2)- SKF Explorer-6205-2RSH/C3, made in USA
Joint Torique- O-ring(large), BRP #293300124, made in China
Joint Torique- O-ring(small), BRP #293300131, made in China
Seals(2)- BRP #293200094, made in Taiwan
bill pitman
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ulflyer
I should have read the manual and had mine done at time the rear tire was installed but didn't, so my question is; does these bearings give some "warning" noise, or other indication, before they fail entirely? Its not something I could do and its gonna be a long time before another rear tire is needed. I have nearly 17K on the RT, and 6K on the tire.
Hopefully since your Spyder should be running the lower belt tension , you won't have any troubles. Many times you can hear bearing noise when they go bad. I could hear mine go bad once and things just didn't 'feel' right. The other time I had the sprocket bearing spinning -- which you could hear. Was a bit hard to hear over my exhaust, but one of my HD buddies noticed the noise from behind. Pulling in clutch, killing the engine and coasting I could hear it too. Had to peen things up to get a new bearing to seat well again.
Your dealer dropped the ball by not replacing them at 17,000 miles.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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