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Active Member
nice job
Originally Posted by archibald609
That's a good video, I'm glad people are starting to figure out how to make these Spyders sound better
2016 RT-S Pearl White
BRP Driver Backrest
Lamonster Spyderdock, (2) Spydercuffs
Magic Mirror w/Doc Humphreys tethers
(2) Rokform phone mounts
FOBO
SpyderPops Bumpskid,missing belt guard,Rear strobe LEDs
Lamonster LED headlights & foglights
Spyder Pockets
LED front fender kit -running & turn signals
Custom Back off mudflap
Vinyl nameplate & 1330 triple decals by New Image Signs
Custom RLS exhaust
Hogtunes speakers 5 1/4 front and back
Memphis Powersports Amp
Her name is " Purl"
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Ohms
Nice but speakers are 2 or 4 ohms ?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by archibald609
sure would like to know how he wired it into the system for speakers.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
sure would like to know how he wired it into the system for speakers.
When I got my amp put in my RT, I let the local custom stereo shop do it - no issues and it wasn't a terrible install price. check out your local stores
2016 RT-S Pearl White
BRP Driver Backrest
Lamonster Spyderdock, (2) Spydercuffs
Magic Mirror w/Doc Humphreys tethers
(2) Rokform phone mounts
FOBO
SpyderPops Bumpskid,missing belt guard,Rear strobe LEDs
Lamonster LED headlights & foglights
Spyder Pockets
LED front fender kit -running & turn signals
Custom Back off mudflap
Vinyl nameplate & 1330 triple decals by New Image Signs
Custom RLS exhaust
Hogtunes speakers 5 1/4 front and back
Memphis Powersports Amp
Her name is " Purl"
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Very Active Member
I have an 2018 F3L. My speakers make a popping sound during moderate to higher bass songs. Is it the woofers or tweeters. Only the front do it. I only have the bass set at 50 percent. What do I need to fix this.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JP58
I have an 2018 F3L. My speakers make a popping sound during moderate to higher bass songs. Is it the woofers or tweeters. Only the front do it. I only have the bass set at 50 percent. What do I need to fix this.
Speakers. i'm trying to get mine warranteed.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Kredab
When I got my amp put in my RT, I let the local custom stereo shop do it - no issues and it wasn't a terrible install price. check out your local stores
RTs don't count. Sorry. I tried setting up an amp from the woofer leads, but the stereo unit does not put out the full spectrum, just the lows. I have not tried the "midrange" yet. We will see.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Speakers. i'm trying to get mine warranteed.
It's done it since new. Wouldn't the replacements do the same thing or did they ruin them when installed at the factory.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JP58
It's done it since new. Wouldn't the replacements do the same thing or did they ruin them when installed at the factory.
Mine only do it at highway speeds & hi volume. They did it since new.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Mine only do it at highway speeds & hi volume. They did it since new.
Same here so I don't think getting new ones from dealer will fix it. I would like to get some after market ones. But don't know what will work. I do not want to have to cut or add amps. Just want good speakers
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Quick Question re: the JBL Component set that's supposed to be the best sound quality....the GTO 508c. It doesn't appear those are Marine grade speakers, which I assume the stock speakers are? With the speakers being exposed to rain and other elements, wouldn't the speakers need to be marine grade?
If no, I'll probably buy a set and install them to the head unit to see how it sounds.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JP58
Same here so I don't think getting new ones from dealer will fix it. I would like to get some after market ones. But don't know what will work. I do not want to have to cut or add amps. Just want good speakers
I have tried and tried, but cannot get anything to work. the woofers don't get the full range so coax do nothing and the base works with Polk DB501s (they bolt right in) but they fart worse than the OEM speakers (not enough power).
Originally Posted by amcvay1979
Quick Question re: the JBL Component set that's supposed to be the best sound quality....the GTO 508c. It doesn't appear those are Marine grade speakers, which I assume the stock speakers are? With the speakers being exposed to rain and other elements, wouldn't the speakers need to be marine grade?
If no, I'll probably buy a set and install them to the head unit to see how it sounds.
DON"T buy the GTO's. They work great on RTs apparently, but the F3 is a different animal and they do nothing. Marine is not that important as long as you don't hit them directly through the grill with a power washer. The OEM speakers seem to be just paper.
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Originally Posted by Rattlebars
I have tried and tried, but cannot get anything to work. the woofers don't get the full range so coax do nothing and the base works with Polk DB501s (they bolt right in) but they fart worse than the OEM speakers (not enough power).
DON"T buy the GTO's. They work great on RTs apparently, but the F3 is a different animal and they do nothing. Marine is not that important as long as you don't hit them directly through the grill with a power washer. The OEM speakers seem to be just paper.
Good to know....I'm going to tackle the speakers soon, but if you can't just drop in new, better speakers I'm sure an amp will be in the cards as well. Are you saying that nothing you've added speaker wise sounds good in the F3?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by amcvay1979
Good to know....I'm going to tackle the speakers soon, but if you can't just drop in new, better speakers I'm sure an amp will be in the cards as well. Are you saying that nothing you've added speaker wise sounds good in the F3?
That is what I'm saying. The woofer speaker terminals have only the bass frequencies. No good for coax speakers. I have not tried the the midrange terminals to see if they are full range. I tried to hook up an amp (old Rockford Fosgate 200s Punch) and got no results with that on the woofers terminals either. I will be trying again in a few months. If anyone knows who Derrick Johnson is or how to get hold of him, let me know. In the video it looks as if he's using the Green wires for the amp input which are the midrange wires. I believe I will be putting the amp in the frunk close to the battery.
Image1.jpg
Last edited by Rattlebars; 10-12-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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Originally Posted by Rattlebars
That is what I'm saying. The woofer speaker terminals have only the bass frequencies. No good for coax speakers. I have not tried the the midrange terminals to see if they are full range. I tried to hook up an amp (old Rockford Fosgate 200s Punch) and got no results with that on the woofers terminals either. I will be trying again in a few months. If anyone knows who Derrick Johnson is or how to get hold of him, let me know. In the video it looks as if he's using the Green wires for the amp input which are the midrange wires. I believe I will be putting the amp in the frunk close to the battery.
Image1.jpg
My bet is they have a passive crossover hidden somewhere, so you'd need to find that or just run new speaker wires to get rid of that.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by amcvay1979
My bet is they have a passive crossover hidden somewhere, so you'd need to find that or just run new speaker wires to get rid of that.
Passive crossover on the OEM wires after the amp? Nothing like that shows up in the circuit. Speaker part of the circuit shown here:
spkrcirc.jpg
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Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Passive crossover on the OEM wires after the amp? Nothing like that shows up in the circuit. Speaker part of the circuit shown here:
spkrcirc.jpg
Then I'd say the factory amplifier is routing the signals, which I suppose makes sense as they're using a mid and a woofer. So the best bet is to bypass the factory amp altogether or install true mids in the stock location and woofers as well?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by amcvay1979
Then I'd say the factory amplifier is routing the signals, which I suppose makes sense as they're using a mid and a woofer. So the best bet is to bypass the factory amp altogether or install true mids in the stock location and woofers as well?
I need to clarify this thread. I've poured over that video and it seems that he's used the Green "midrange" wires to drive a 2 channel amp running the Coax speakers installed. If you play the video, you will notice that when he demonstrates the sound, there is NO BASS at all, just mid to upper highs because I believe he's using the "midrange" output from the stock radio into a 2 channel (left & right) amp. The bass voice coils don't vibrate at all by the reflection in them. I plan to use a 4 channel amp and run both the OEM midrange and the woofer speaker outs through the amp and get a quality set of component speakers to get the signal from all four channels IE Left two speakers and right 2 speakers.
>CLICK ME<
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So what year has a better audio system? The older ones with 2 amps or the newer ones with 1 6x20? The speakers for the 2016 & 2017 are 3x the price of the 2018 & 2019. Not saying that higher price is better quality.
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I'm still contemplating upgrading the speakers and maybe adding an amp. I wonder if the rear speakers would provide a full range out to send to an amp. Then you'd have to run wires to the front dash and add new speakers, but that may be the only way to pickup full range.
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Active Member
Have you found a solution to resolve the popping sound? I've been scouring the Spyderlovers forum seeking for help from others who are experiencing similar. My '18 F3L has been in the shop four times to try and resolve the issue since spring 2018 - video for reference. Latest software update v20.8 I had completed in July 2019 unfortunately didn't resolve the popping issue.
Anytime my steering bar is turned left/right, static noise emanates from the speakers while in FM station is broadcasting. In the meantime I've had four brand new '18 RT Ltd on loan which also makes the same identical staticky noise through the speakers ( video) when the steering is turned left/right. I've asked the dealer to relay this to BRP because I'm suspecting more '18 Spyders with the new digital dash cluster likely has this same issue.
>Has anyone specifically only with the '18 or newer model Spyder's (RT or F3's) that utilises the new digital display cluster notice if:
1) ALL their speakers clip on music's bass points, even while at low volume
2) the FM tuner signal seem is quite staticky and
3) volume output has to be turned up nearly 80%+ in order to hear it at speeds above 50mph/80kph?
I compared my '18 F3 LTD radio volume output against a 2017 F3-LTD. On the 2017 I set the volume output (tuned to the same radio station AND using a music streaming device playing the same song) at 30% and then adjusted the 2018 to an equal level output. My Spyder had to be set at 60% to be equal to the 2017. I've tried this also with the 2018 models with my dealer's new floor models against the 2017's and reproduced the same results.
Originally Posted by JP58
I have an 2018 F3L. My speakers make a popping sound during moderate to higher bass songs. Is it the woofers or tweeters. Only the front do it. I only have the bass set at 50 percent. What do I need to fix this.
“Be who you are and say what you feel
because those who mind don't matter and
those who matter don't mind.” ... Dr. Suess
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Very Active Member
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I'd like to replicate the harness that goes from the radio to the rear speaker amp. I've got a top case but no amp. Does anyone have a schematic or pinout for that harness? The 2017 F3 Limited schematic doesn't show it, as far as I can tell.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ssiggy
I'd like to replicate the harness that goes from the radio to the rear speaker amp. I've got a top case but no amp. Does anyone have a schematic or pinout for that harness? The 2017 F3 Limited schematic doesn't show it, as far as I can tell.
f3T & Ltd shown. The RaDiO RDO is in the rear under the cowl/(top case?) and the audio unit controls the radio. I would guess that the rear speakers are parallel to the "front" as shown. RW2=right woofer negative RW1=right woofer positive. Extrapolate from there where M = midrange. (no "rear") shown.
radio.jpg
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Anyone have details about the spyder limted upgraded stereo? https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-Spyder.../dp/B01B1WTZ9M
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