Handlebars

[BruceA]

I have a 2017 F3-L that fits me very well except it would be nice if the handlebars were about an inch closer to my body.
Anyone have any suggestions?

[BLACK REV 800 X]

I have a 2017 F3-L that fits me very well except it would be nice if the handlebars were about an inch closer to my body.
Anyone have any suggestions?

I'm going to post a similar topic, but just installed a RDL seat, and the 2 inch increase in seat height really messed up the ergonomics on my F3L as well. I need to look into bar options or if a riser block is available.

[Peteoz]

I'm going to post a similar topic, but just installed a RDL seat, and the 2 inch increase in seat height really messed up the ergonomics on my F3L as well. I need to look into bar options or if a riser block is available.

I bought the 2” risers for my F3-L, but couldn’t use them. The butterfly shape of the handlebar block prevents the riser fitting well into the handlebar holes, plus the gap in the 2” riser knob was not enough let it fit over the butterfly shape. Thst’s a very poor description, I know. I just wanted to get this out there, and will post some kind of photo and brand name shortly.

Pete

[Peteoz]

Here’s a couple of photos of the Rox 2” risers. They are not tall enough to clear the butterfly body shape of the F3-L handlebar clamps, plus the riser nubs don’t fit fully into the original handlebar holes due to the clamp shape. I could be trying to install them incorrectly of course, but I don’t believe so. Maybe 3” risers would clear the clamps, but I don’t know. The second photo is pretty poor, but it will give you some idea of what I am talking about. I can post a better photo if anyone is interested.

I have my stock F3-L bars rotated up a couple of inches, which worked well, but a DayLong seat lifted me 2”. I am looking at buying either the BRP short? reach bars (the ones that come closest to the rider) and removing the clamp nub so I can can rotate them up 4” or so (but that could make for an uncomfortable wrist angle) or buying Lamont’s Billy Cub bars. I am not a big mini apes fan, but if they work, on they go. Plus, at 6’7”, I’m hoping they will just look like normal bars anyway

Pete

[BruceA]

I'm going to post a similar topic, but just installed a RDL seat, and the 2 inch increase in seat height really messed up the ergonomics on my F3L as well. I need to look into bar options or if a riser block is available.

I don't need mine any higher, just need them about 1.5" closer to me.

[Peteoz]

I don't need mine any higher, just need them about 1.5" closer to me.

Which bars did you get with your F3-L, Bruce?

Pete

[BruceA]

Which bars did you get with your F3-L, Bruce?

Pete

They were the stock bars. I believe they are for position 3.

[Peteoz]

They were the stock bars. I believe they are for position 3.

It might be worthwhile doing a bit of research on the “short reach” bars, Bruce. I have not found exactly how much closer they are to you than the “standard reach” bars, but it looks like an inch or two. You can then rotate them up or down a few inches to get them in the right place, within the limitation of the slot in the base of the bars and nub in the clamp.

If you do go down this route, make sure the bars don’t contact your knees or tank if you lower them. There are a few threads on this in Spyderlovers that might provide more info.

Pete

[fatenhappy]

I have a 2017 F3-L that fits me very well except it would be nice if the handlebars were about an inch closer to my body.
Anyone have any suggestions?

I wanted the same thing on my 2017 F3-T but for very different reasons a few months back. I poked prodded measured and even got out a set of verniers to measure the different areas of the F3 bars … And so this is what finished up happening ...

Instead of going out and buying new bars straight off, I also had a good look at the workshop manual and found the bars are actually in three (3) pieces … The centre section is 28mm (1 1/8") OD and then the bars gradually taper either side to the two separate grip area pieces where they reduce down to 22mm or 7/8" O/D. I was really wanting to know what was limiting the handlebar positioning travel at all back and down?

By loosening off the 4 centre retaining bolts I was able to remove the handlebars completely. If you then have a close look, you will find the limit of travel (up and down / in effect, forward and aft ) is governed by the length of 2 small separate OEM slots.

I reasoned, if I ever so slightly lengthened these travel limit slots to allow a smidgeon more travel for the bars, I would just slightly extend the bars limit of travel and positioning … which I did.

So maybe no more than just an 1/8" or so was gently removed - using a Dremel …. With this tiny adjustment in travel gave me at least an inch or so both back and down that I was looking for to the area of the grips - and without at all compromising safety. For me this was perfect! - but each to their own

You may want to contemplate this, you may not … very easy … 5 to 10 minutes a side and the job was all resecured 15 minutes or so later with no more stressors to my shoulders … hope this helps …

[JP58]

I installed the Rox risers on my 2018 F3L and I cant get them tight enough to stop slipping. There in no knurling on the handlebars. The bars want to slip with average pressure on them. I tried a prick punch and hammer to mar the inside surface. Didn't help. What now any advice would be helpful.

[BLACK REV 800 X]

I installed the Rox risers on my 2018 F3L and I cant get them tight enough to stop slipping. There in no knurling on the handlebars. The bars want to slip with average pressure on them. I tried a prick punch and hammer to mar the inside surface. Didn't help. What now any advice would be helpful.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...actory-Visitok

[always young]

I also installed the ROD risers (2inch) with the short reach bars. These bars are angled similar to regular motorcycle bars. Much more comfortable than the flat stock bars. Anyway, I couldn't get the bars from rotating as well. You can clamp down hard enough on the stock end, but at the bar end, It's slightly oversize just enough that it won't clamp down solid. My solution, I drilled and tapped for a 6-32 stainless socket head screw through the ROX clamp. Solved the problem. It's small and hardly noticeable. Got the drill and tap at Ace for less then $10.00 bucks. I use the bars to stand up and get off the bike and they were moving all the time. No problem anymore. Just another option.

[JP58]

I also installed the ROD risers (2inch) with the short reach bars. These bars are angled similar to regular motorcycle bars. Much more comfortable than the flat stock bars. Anyway, I couldn't get the bars from rotating as well. You can clamp down hard enough on the stock end, but at the bar end, It's slightly oversize just enough that it won't clamp down solid. My solution, I drilled and tapped for a 6-32 stainless socket head screw through the ROX clamp. Solved the problem. It's small and hardly noticeable. Got the drill and tap at Ace for less then $10.00 bucks. I use the bars to stand up and get off the bike and they were moving all the time. No problem anymore. Just another option.

That is what I did today. Drill and tap thru center of top caps. Added a couple flat head hex bolts and problem solved.

[BruceA]

I installed the Rox risers on my 2018 F3L and I cant get them tight enough to stop slipping. There in no knurling on the handlebars. The bars want to slip with average pressure on them. I tried a prick punch and hammer to mar the inside surface. Didn't help. What now any advice would be helpful.

I put BLUE Locktite on the bars and Riser. Works great.