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  1. #1
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Default Removing Front Wheels

    Hey Friends,

    I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way.

    Has anyone else experienced this?

    I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  2. #2
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    Default Maybe....

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    Hey Friends,

    I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way.

    Has anyone else experienced this?

    I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments!
    Any chance that they are left handed threads?

  3. #3
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Oh no, did not think of that! YIKES, need to consult the owners/service manuals! I hope I am not an idiot !
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  4. #4
    Very Active Member YPILOT's Avatar
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    The RT Spyders come shipped to the dealer with the wheels off. The dealer that put your RT together must have put them on too tight. I don't believe they have left hand threads, just too tight. Take it back to them and let them do the damage.


    "Stupid is as Stupid does"
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  5. #5
    Registered Users Eraser's Avatar
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    I believe that the Dealer torques them.I was told that they arrive in their crates without the wheels installed.
    I removed the wheels on my RS yesterday without any problems.Call your dealer and ask them how much torque they used.


    Play Safe!!!

    2010 RT.

  6. #6
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    The threads are right handed and Spyder RT's are shipped to the dealers with front wheels removed.

  7. #7
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Nothing regarding tightening rotation in either the Owners or Service Manual...maybe another item BRP skipped?
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  8. #8
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    You guys are right... I have been changing tires and torquing lug nuts for many years and I have never run into this. I mean I can't get them to budge at all!

    To the dealer it goes on Tuesday.
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  9. #9
    Active Member SocalT's Avatar
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    Default Mine were just the opposite

    Just over hand tight, I was glad I installed the ESI products just after purchased
    Facta Non Verba
    2010 RT-S SE5 PE 368

  10. #10
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    Right to tight, left to loose. I just had them off and you are right. Some were on with an air hammer, some by hand. I got them off and torq them all to 77 ft lbs. On all my Euro car I have found the front wheel torq can make a unwanted vib in the the wheel. I always check what the stealership has done for torq on the front end. Now that I think about it Ev what were you thinking. lol.
    Last edited by canam9; 08-23-2010 at 12:52 PM. Reason: spl

  11. #11
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    I spoke with Evan (MM) of ESI regarding another issue and told him about it. He said that they have run into this issue numerous times and he even destroyed a wrench getting the wheels off of SpyderWolf's Spyder.

    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  12. #12
    Very Active Member freebob's Avatar
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    Default Removing Front Wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderRider View Post
    Hey Friends,

    I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way.

    Has anyone else experienced this?

    I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments!
    ..
    Well I would suggest dealer or bigger ratchet or breaker bar Nuts have been over torqued common problem....Freebob...

  13. #13
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Well got them redone yesterday. Dealer swears not over tightened but mechanic had to tug down hard with a breaker bar to get them loose. I witnessed re-tightening with torque wrench.
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  14. #14
    Registered Users Roger's Avatar
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    Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
    always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.

    Roger

  15. #15
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    Default Torque front wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger View Post
    Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
    always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.
    What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Firefly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodchuck View Post
    What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.
    While over-torquing them isn't good, rotors heat up no matter what. They would have to get REALLY hot for a long time to warp. I just had a problem with my brakes rubbing because I didn't install the new pads correctly--- rotors got hotter than ..... but they didn't warp. At any given time during a ride--- pull over and feel them and they will be warm if not HOT.


    Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!

    Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
    Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firefly View Post


    Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
    Now you tell me. Whats that saying, Closing the barn door after ' xxxxxxxx

  18. #18
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Yeah, I saw that it's pretty tight in there!
    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  19. #19
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    Default Tight nuts

    I know the feeling. Be assured that the dealer's mechanic used his air powered nut tightener to tighten those nuts. The steel nuts bond with the aluminum rim where they seat when tightened. This is a charateristic of aluminum and softer steel. Do not lubricate the seat where the steel nuts come in contact with the aluminum rim. This high coificient of friction helps in keeping the nuts tightened in their place. The same holds true with the threads of the studs and the nuts. These threads should not be lubricated unless galling starts. That's when the two threaded parts, the stud and the nut, seem to weld together. Then a very limited amount of lubricant should be applied only to the first 2 threads of the studs before reapplying the nuts. Drive a little slower and get there safely.

  20. #20
    Registered Users SpyderRider's Avatar
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    Drive a little slower...

    Thanks Jim - a.k.a. SpyderRider

    "Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny".

    ~ Thomas Jefferson

  21. #21
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    I was intending to remove my front wheels today to bring them inside (where it's warm) to install WrapMySpyder's new RT wheel wraps. Unfortunately I ran into the same problem as the OP had eight years ago (also new Spyder, 1800 miles so far).

    Before I read his post, I mistakenly assumed I could remove the lugs with a normal socket wrench (as I have before with cars) and I fit a 13/16" socket to them, but they won't budge with all my strength and using a mallet didn't help. I didn't want to try any harder because I knew 13/16" was probably not the exact size and I didn't want to damage anything. Not being very wise on such things, before I go out and try to buy appropriate tools, what kind of breaker bar would you recommend? I look on Amazon and there are millions of them in different drives and lengths. Would hate to have to buy a 24" bar with only a 1/2" drive that I'd only be able to use on these stupid lugs. Amazon has a "Tooluxe 037003L 3/8" and 1/2" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel, 0-150 Ft Lbs" that is 17" long. If that would work, that would be pretty useful not just to remove these *&^% lug nuts but for other things as well. But is 17" long enough???

    And what is the actual size of the lug nuts so I can buy a proper socket?

    Thank you for any help. If this becomes too difficult or requires too many tools, screw it, I'll wait for warm weather and just put on the wraps right on the wheels without removing them.
    2017 RTS , Blue

  22. #22
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Another point not addressed in the rebirth of this older thread concerns front tire rotation.

    The tires are directional and if you decide to rotate them--they must be changed over to the other rims.

    Most do not mess with tire rotation because of that.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  23. #23
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default John Simeon - 13/16 works great as the 21 mm nominal is just a tad bigger

    The metric size is 21 mm on the lug nuts, but a thinwall 13/16 socket fits better and if you can find one with 1/2 drive and 6 pt you are set. Look for a 1/2" breaker bar 24" long, (I got mine from Harbor Freight) and you will have it to use with a 36 mm socket on the rear axle nut if you attempt that wheel change.

    Works for me--you can never have too many tools
    07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
    03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
    11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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  24. #24
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Anything slid over the end of your spanner, socket drive, or lug wrench arm/handle that extends the length of the leverage you are applying on the socket will work as a breaker bar.... you really don't need to go out & buy a specific tool just to do this job - just grab a length of pipe of a suitable diameter or even a longish ring spanner that has a socket ring sized big enough to just fit over the end of the handle, slip it on the end away from the lug nut & push on that!! Even tho the ring spanner will be applying the push at close to 90 degrees to the original handle, it'll work because of the extra length between the pushing end & the lug nut - basically, you just hafta make sure the leverage is extended far enough......



    Now what was that saying??.... And who was it??......

    "Just give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I'll shall move the World!"

    or something like that!!.... I reckon it was Archimedes - pretty sure that's the right bloke!! Very smart fella, for his, or any time!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  25. #25
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    johnsimion, If you don't want to buy new tools for this, you're close enough to Capt Joe and Ann Meyer, I'm certain they could break them loose for you. They are Squared Away right there in LV. (Site Sponsors too)

    SL Usernames cptjam or SpyderAnn01
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