I have added two USB power ports to supply power to two cameras and they are getting power from battery through a FZ-1. The USB's are causing RF interference.
It was suggested to me that I put a 25 ohm 5 watt resistor on the positive side. Local Radio Shack is going out of business and does not stock. Anyone know where to get this resistor?
Now I will add. You don't really say what is getting interference? The cameras?
If so and the 12V run is long (like from front of the Spyder to the back), then chokes or a resistor may not help. You might have to use shielded cable and ground the shielding at both ends as the wire is acting like an antenna.
Thanks for the replies. It is nice knowing there are some electrical savy spyderriders around.
I get the radio static whenever I plug into the rear usb power plug to get power to the rear camera. The usb plug has several feet of +wire and -wire. The Garmin Virb camera works fine.
Thanks for the replies. It is nice knowing there are some electrical savy spyderriders around.
I get the radio static whenever I plug into the rear usb power plug to get power to the rear camera. The usb plug has several feet of +wire and -wire. The Garmin Virb camera works fine.
Should I use both the magnets and the resistor?
Are you plugging a USB power adapter into the 12 volt outlet in the trunk? If not, what are the + and - wires connected to? USB adapters emit RF noise if they are not made properly. Your best bet may be to try different USB adapters until you find one that doesn't emit so much RF noise. Also, keep the USB adapters and cables away from the antenna as far as possible. I ran into that problem when I was conjuring up a USB power supply for my tablet GPS. The first one connected directly to the power leads coming from the radio. That fed RF noise right into the radio. I ended up with a USB adapter in the area just above the coolant bottle and run the USB cable to the dash.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
To be clear, the magnets are attached to the radio antenna wire? Is that correct? Perhaps adding to the USB cable also will help?
I am using a 'Panel Tapp' Usb power port located below the left passenger hand rail. The power and ground wires run to a FZ1 located front left of bike. The Usb cable runs along the rear seatback up to the camera located on top of the truck lid.
I replaced the OEM antenna with a hidden antenna located inside the rear panel just below the rear truck handle opener.
Good reception on radio until camera USB cable is plugged in providing power to the camera, then some static with lower volume. No problrms with camera.
Last edited by sscheuer47; 04-09-2015 at 07:46 AM.
A lot of the USB and other power supplies use what is called a 'chopper' circuit to take the 12vdc down to 5vdc. They call it a chopper because it chops out parts of the 12vdc, and reassembles it to make the 5vdc (trust me). They work well, but some can put our RF interference like you are seeing. The resister simply adds 'load' to the circuit thus dampening the chop. Somewhat.
The 'magnets' you are talking about are not really magnets. They are ferrite cores (aka chokes). They come in snap on versions and doughnut type. If you are trying to suppress RF noise, you would put these on anything EXCEPT the antenna! The antenna WANTS to receive RF. You can put them on the USB cable, on 12vdc wires, etc. The ferrite cores act like high frequency absorbers.
There's another old trick we used in broadcast and that was to tie knots in wires when we couldn't get our hands on the ferrite cores right away.
____________________________ Phil - Tyler Texas 2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
I am getting Radio interference on My Spyder Radio when I apply apply the brake otherwise it's fine
I have the HMT brake light fitted and the front fender LED's which are both running lights and function as an extra brake lights
what do I need to do/fit to stop this happenig
I have added two USB power ports to supply power to two cameras and they are getting power from battery through a FZ-1. The USB's are causing RF interference.
It was suggested to me that I put a 25 ohm 5 watt resistor on the positive side. Local Radio Shack is going out of business and does not stock. Anyone know where to get this resistor?
There is a hiss noise and reception is lost until the brake is released
seems to do this with the brake pedal
just tried the same by applying the parking brake using the switch no interference
There is a hiss noise and reception is lost until the brake is released
seems to do this with the brake pedal
just tried the same by applying the parking brake using the switch no interference
Parking break does not turn on the break lights.
I would unscrew the right rear speaker box and check the radio antenna ground strap and connection.
Did you also check that the antenna plugs are mated at the radio?
Pull the cover off over the radio and there is a standard type antenna plug set in there. Pull it apart and clean it inside.
There was a water intrusion fix (service bulletin) a while back that the dealer should have done. It puts heat shrink around that antenna connector so no water gets in it and keeps it from coming loose due to vibration.
Other than that I am stumped. Only thing I can think of is some ground issue for the radio.......
You might have to use shielded cable and ground the shielding at both ends as the wire is acting like an antenna.
Bob
Hi Bob,
If you ground both ends of a shielded cable you create a current loop and that is not good. You only ground one end of a shielded cable so it drains. I've been working with analog signal cables (twisted pair shielded) for years and every time someone has a signal problem I find that they have grounded the shield on both ends.