Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    South Jordan, UT (Salt Lake)
    Posts
    2,939
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Rear Tire Removal / Change on RT

    Looking for someone who has done a rear tire change on a RT themselves? I have done it three times on a RS, but never on a RT. I assume it's not really any different, but wanted to see if anyone else here has done it and could give me some pointers.

    Thanks.
    2008 GS , ISCI Quantum Blue

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,538
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default RT TIRE CHANGE

    I do believe Lamont has Video's for both RS and RT, check the search feature or someone will probably just tell you where....Mike...

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    The only thing you have to be concerned about is removing the linkage for the ride height adjustment. Everything else is pretty much the same.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    South Jordan, UT (Salt Lake)
    Posts
    2,939
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Great! Thanks!!
    2008 GS , ISCI Quantum Blue

  5. #5
    Active Member johnwinslow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Waterboro, Maine
    Posts
    463
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I just replaced another rear tire so I decided to check this post , I change it a little but still want to say check your bearings for smooth and clean. I removed my rear tire off my 2011 rt-s, I first removed the trailer hitch no brain-er. then the two 15mm bolts on the brake assy and let it hang. then the Axel(if you use a motorcycle jack like lamonts, position it just a 1/4 inch in back of the catalytic converter,raise the bike until you can just rotate the rear wheel, I'm talking a sheet of paper would just slide between the floor and tire, do not remove the shock bolt, you finish removing the Axel, the tire will drop onto the floor, then jack up the bike, the bike goes up, the wheel stays down, the belt gets loose, jack until you can roll the wheel out the back no lifting, remove the disk assy. in the manual it says to discard your bolts and use new ones, then the sprocket, the sprocket will come off with just a pull, the sprocket is not bolted to the wheel it will come off the wheel with some jiggle and pulling, there are rubber shocks on the inside of the hub. now inspect the bearings they should look and feel smooth and easy to turn. if not and you are still in warranty, let your dealer replace the bearings otherwise order the bearings, seals, and o-ring $68.00 for all. any tire store can mount and balance your new tire or you can if you want. then roll your new tire and reassembled wheel under the spyder,put the belt on the sprocket, now!! have a helper slowly lower the the jack until you can slip the axle in, you should use a dead-blow hammer to persuade it, this is not orange county, take it easy. then reassemble everything. jack it up a little so you can rotate the wheel. check for belt tracking and that the brakes work, and your Jim's smooth idler is in position, now go eat supper, you are too tired to clean up the tools, and test ride today. tomorrow you will be ready to do that.
    Last edited by johnwinslow; 05-20-2015 at 06:15 PM.

  6. #6
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    St. Catharines, Ontario
    Posts
    162
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Did you remove the sensor bolt or does keeping the shock bolt in place ensure it does not get damaged?

    Quote Originally Posted by johnwinslow View Post
    I removed my rear tire off my 2011 rt-s, I first removed the trailer hitch no brain-er. then the two 15mm bolts on the brake assy and let it hang. then the Axel(if you use a motorcycle jack like lamonts, position it just a 1/4 inch in front of the catalytic converter,raise the bike until you can just rotate the rear wheel, I'm talking a sheet of paper would just slide between the floor and tire, do not remove the shock bolt, you finish removing the Axel, the tire will drop onto the floor, then jack up the bike, the bike goes up, the wheel stays down, the belt gets loose, jack until you can roll the wheel out the back no lifting, remove the disk assy. then the sprocket, you have to remove the seal on the sprocket, under it is a inside C ring, use tru-ark pliers to remove it, the sprocket will come off with just a pull, now inspect the bearings they should look and feel smooth and easy to turn. if not and you are still in warranty, let your dealer replace the bearings otherwise order the bearings, seals, and o-ring $68.00 for all. any tire store can mount and balance your new tire or you can if you want. then roll your new tire and reassembled wheel under the spyder,put the belt on the sprocket, now!! have a helper slowly lower the the jack until you can slip the axle in, you should use a dead-blow hammer to persuade it, this is not orange county, take it easy. then reassemble everything. jack it up a little so you can rotate the wheel. check for belt tracking and that the brakes work, and your Jim's smooth idler is in position, now go eat supper, you are too tired to clean up the tools, and test ride today. tomorrow you will be ready to do that.

  7. #7
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Hardy, VA
    Posts
    109
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Rear tire change Following John directions

    Quote Originally Posted by johnwinslow View Post
    I removed my rear tire off my 2011 rt-s, I first removed the trailer hitch no brain-er. then the two 15mm bolts on the brake assy and let it hang. then the Axel(if you use a motorcycle jack like lamonts, position it just a 1/4 inch in front of the catalytic converter,raise the bike until you can just rotate the rear wheel, I'm talking a sheet of paper would just slide between the floor and tire, do not remove the shock bolt, you finish removing the Axel, the tire will drop onto the floor, then jack up the bike, the bike goes up, the wheel stays down, the belt gets loose, jack until you can roll the wheel out the back no lifting, remove the disk assy. then the sprocket, you have to remove the seal on the sprocket, under it is a inside C ring, use tru-ark pliers to remove it, the sprocket will come off with just a pull, now inspect the bearings they should look and feel smooth and easy to turn. if not and you are still in warranty, let your dealer replace the bearings otherwise order the bearings, seals, and o-ring $68.00 for all. any tire store can mount and balance your new tire or you can if you want. then roll your new tire and reassembled wheel under the spyder,put the belt on the sprocket, now!! have a helper slowly lower the the jack until you can slip the axle in, you should use a dead-blow hammer to persuade it, this is not orange county, take it easy. then reassemble everything. jack it up a little so you can rotate the wheel. check for belt tracking and that the brakes work, and your Jim's smooth idler is in position, now go eat supper, you are too tired to clean up the tools, and test ride today. tomorrow you will be ready to do that.
    I removed my rear tire yesterday following the directions above and today I put the new tire back on. Everything went very smooth and no problems at all. I did not remove the shock bolt and I did not remove the sensor bolt. After all back together, I run the tire in 1st gear a little. Remove the jack and went for a 7 mile ride. The belt tracked exactly right and all is well. This method is very simple and fairly easy.

  8. #8
    Active Member johnwinslow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Waterboro, Maine
    Posts
    463
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    [QUOTE=johnwinslow;493669]I removed my rear tire off my 2011 rt-s, I first removed the trailer hitch no brain-er. then the two 15mm bolts on the brake assy and let it hang. then the Axel(if you use a motorcycle jack like lamonts, position it just a 1/4 inch in front of the catalytic converter,raise the bike until you can just rotate the rear wheel, I'm talking a sheet of paper would just slide between the floor and tire, do not remove the shock bolt, you finish removing the Axel, the tire will drop onto the floor, then jack up the bike, the bike goes up, the wheel stays down, the belt gets loose, jack until you can roll the wheel out the back no lifting, remove the disk assy. then the sprocket, you have to remove the seal on the sprocket, under it is a inside C ring, use tru-ark pliers to remove it, the sprocket will come off with just a pull, now inspect the bearings they should look and feel smooth and easy to turn. if not and you are still in warranty, let your dealer replace the bearings otherwise order the bearings, seals, and o-ring $68.00 for all. any tire store can mount and balance your new tire or you can if you want. then roll your new tire and reassembled wheel under the spyder,put the belt on the sprocket, now!! have a helper slowly lower the the jack until you can slip the axle in, you should use a dead-blow hammer to persuade it, this is not orange county, take it easy. then reassemble everything. jack it up a little so you can rotate the wheel. check for belt tracking and that the brakes work, and your Jim's smooth idler is in position, now go eat supper, you are too tired to clean up the tools, and test ride today. tomorrow you will be ready to do that.

    felt like posting this again as I am ready for a new back tire

  9. #9
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Stanton, ca
    Posts
    4,893
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I did mine and did a video...

    Enjoy

    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...r-Spyder-Video

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •