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 To my surprise i posted these by accident in the GS/RS section......oops 2010 RT SM5
IMG_0500.jpgIMG_0501.jpgRear, left side air cleaner.
IMG_0496.jpgIMG_0502.jpgFront, right side air cleaner.
IMG_0497.jpgAnd the electric water pump, removed and sealed off original pump and the leaking weep holes......no more oil or water drips from there and runs a lot cooler!
Not that i still don't have other problems every 1000 miles or so!
Last edited by rarerockmusic; 08-12-2014 at 06:49 PM.
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accendent
 Originally Posted by rarerockmusic
IMG_0500.jpgIMG_0501.jpgRear, left side air cleaner.
IMG_0496.jpgIMG_0502.jpgFront, right side air cleaner.
IMG_0497.jpgAnd the electric water pump, removed and sealed off original pump and the leaking weep holes......no more oil or water drips from there and runs a lot cooler!
Not that i still don't have other problems every 1000 miles or so!
what did you use as a base on your pvc
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Are you sure the pvc are heat resistant.
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Nicely done..!!
looks good. Hope there is a coil spring in the uni filters those throttle bodies can suck that foam down especially if they get dirty. I would use K&N's. Would love to hear back on how both the electric water pump and air system work over time..congrats... 
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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What did you do with the factory water pump? If it is still on the engine it will burn up without water to lube the seals in it. If you completely removed it then ok......
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The base for the air cleaner was cut from the original air box, a little sanding on each 90 degree to get them next to each other and trimmed down 1/4 inch for clearance, the 45 degree to bring them down and out, 2" pvc, says it's temp rated to 140 degrees and yes the filters have springs, Unifilters. The old water pump was removed completely, and i put almost 2000 miles on since i did this and working good so far. I also added a cooling fan to the oil cooler that comes on with the radiator fan.
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Originally Posted by rarerockmusic
The base for the air cleaner was cut from the original air box, a little sanding on each 90 degree to get them next to each other and trimmed down 1/4 inch for clearance, the 45 degree to bring them down and out, 2" pvc, says it's temp rated to 140 degrees and yes the filters have springs, Unifilters. The old water pump was removed completely, and i put almost 2000 miles on since i did this and working good so far. I also added a cooling fan to the oil cooler that comes on with the radiator fan.
It all looks good but I would be worried about the PVC. It gets a lot hotter than 140 deg in there .
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Very Active Member
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hot box
ive never had my air box off but it looks like plastic would it be able to stand the temp. any better then pvc
Originally Posted by Magdave
It all looks good but I would be worried about the PVC. It gets a lot hotter than 140 deg in there .
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Very Active Member
I posted a question in your other thread, but I'll just ask again. What water pump did you use? Also, with the major change in the air intake, did you re-program your FI system (juice box, etc)?
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http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...2-details.aspx
No change to FI, juice box died a little after a year, and so far it runs much cooler, normal ride is 2 bars on temp, and i see no damage to the pvc yet?? It is a lot cooler underneath with the big box gone. If i get some extra cash i would like to use silicone hose and run the filters down closer to the front air openings on the front of the bike.
Last edited by rarerockmusic; 08-13-2014 at 09:51 AM.
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I did a check on the PVC, it's rated 140 degrees at 110 PSI, the melt point is around 375 degrees.
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Originally Posted by frankc
ive never had my air box off but it looks like plastic would it be able to stand the temp. any better then pvc
Not all plastics are the same in fact can have totally different properties including heat resistance. PVC is not know for it's heat resistance. just sayin'.... Silicone sounds interesting though.
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pvc
thanks for the info had no idea what temps plastic can handle I wonder if anyone has put a heat gun in this area just to ck temp
Originally Posted by Magdave
Not all plastics are the same in fact can have totally different properties including heat resistance. PVC is not know for it's heat resistance. just sayin'.... Silicone sounds interesting though.
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Very Active Member
YES
Originally Posted by frankc
thanks for the info had no idea what temps plastic can handle I wonder if anyone has put a heat gun in this area just to ck temp
YES, i've put a heat-gun to PVC many times with success... and yes it will burn, but if done carefully, you can bend it, configure it almost 'at will'..... however, once heated, it does loose some of its strength.... just be careful, if it turns brown/black, you've over cooked it.... keep moving the gun from side-to-side....
also, many car manufacturers are using 'plastic' intake manifolds that are stable up to 750 deg. F..... it's just very expensive stuff and not generally on the market in 'pipe' form.....
good luck....
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Well when i redo them i think I'm going with the silicone hose it's rated -65 to 500, plus more flexible, I'm thinking the cooler air from down front would be an improvement. As they are now the filters are next to the vents on the upper side panels.
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Very Active Member
Another Spyderlovers member created a Ram air type inlet to the front of his GS/RS bike using the existing vent holes next to the frunk. He took some kind of tubing and created a duct directly to the filter housing, which I believe he altered. I talked to him about it at SITR, but don't have many details. Maybe he'll post up what he did, because I don't remember seeing anything from him about it.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
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How is the water pump turned on? It is always on when the key is on? Or when the engine is runing?
How did you wire it?
Bob
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Hooked water pump to a key on wire, if i remember it was an unused connector under the service panel for antifreeze, hell may be the budds connector but it comes on with key and turns off with shutdown/delay. So it turns off when the lights/fan do etc. BTW it does go to 5 bars until the thermostat opens, then depending on ambient temps while moving it stays 1 to 2 bars, never over 5 tho.
Last edited by rarerockmusic; 08-14-2014 at 07:35 PM.
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Well, just for the fun of it i put the Juice Box back on, little more power but still not right? Does anyone know the last upgrade for the 2010 base RT, last one on mine was 6 or 8 months after i got it, and would it be free, or only under warranty? Thought the box was trashed but hooked it to pc and seemed fine, i took it off when i had the other no start situation thinking that was the problem.....always a mystery.......
Last edited by rarerockmusic; 08-14-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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Well lets add to the list, went out today, no clutch, 2nd time this season, open cover no fluid again. What was in there was black, so now once again I'm down, save my pennies for a new slave cylinder and o-rings......never ending!!!
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Just an update, been awhile, water pump still works flawless (one day I'll get some pics) and the intakes have no issues, 5000 miles with the pump and over 3000 on the intake mods.
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Very Active Member
what about intake noise? How much of a roar is there compared to the stock intake and does it quiet down at cruising speed. I really like the simplicity of your work.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
what about intake noise? How much of a roar is there compared to the stock intake and does it quiet down at cruising speed. I really like the simplicity of your work.
You can definitely here the intake, exhaust and at speed knocks it way down, heavy throttle and hills the throat kicks more.
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To my surprise i posted these by accident in the GS/RS section......oops 2010 RT SM5
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