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our brakes have been squeaking since day one -- it now has 3000 miles on and we are taking it in as a warranty item -- brakes should not squeak -- bike is 1 month old tomorrow
Last edited by OwnerOfHarriet; 08-10-2014 at 08:28 PM.
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Not sure about the Spyder but that's how it works on cars with a parking brake that uses the same pads as the main brake. For my VW jetta I made a tool that turns the piston while applying pressure to push it back in.
John
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Brake pad
If it's like my 2008 was i had to take E brake cable and arm off then screw the shaft out until it stopped.I had plenty of room then to put new pads on.Then adjust your E brake and your ready to go.When you screw shaft out you can use c-clamp or pliers to spread pistons.
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Changing out the stock brake pads for a sey of EBC HH pads. Started it last night and the rear pads went on tight. Not able to turn the wheel tight! Fronts no issues. Hoping that driving it slow would free up the rear, but that did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and tried again to push the piston back. I use a large C clamp for this, but same results as last night - it did not move. I even opened the bleed screw , but nothing. Thinking that the piston maybe cocked in its bore I made the mistake of pumping it out further.
Now it's out so I can not move it back to put in the stock pads
I see there is two stock 5/32 holes ( not all the way through ) on the piston that are spaced .782 from each other and I am wondering if the piston has to be turned as it is pressed back like some cars have to
I will try calling a dealer tomorrow to try and get some answers
Not the results I was expecting when I started this simple project.
BTW I have 10,400 miles on the Spyder and the stock pads have a lot of material left. My goal was to find pads that stop as well if not better, but without the noise.
Email me!
fyredad@hotmail.com
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Try this..!!
release the parking brake cable. You many time adjust the park brake as the pads wear down. When you put the new pads on you need to readjust the park brake or it will drag cause it is too tight...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Changing out the stock brake pads for a sey of EBC HH pads. Started it last night and the rear pads went on tight. Not able to turn the wheel tight! Fronts no issues. Hoping that driving it slow would free up the rear, but that did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and tried again to push the piston back. I use a large C clamp for this, but same results as last night - it did not move. I even opened the bleed screw , but nothing. Thinking that the piston maybe cocked in its bore I made the mistake of pumping it out further.
Now it's out so I can not move it back to put in the stock pads
I see there is two stock 5/32 holes ( not all the way through ) on the piston that are spaced .782 from each other and I am wondering if the piston has to be turned as it is pressed back like some cars have to
I will try calling a dealer tomorrow to try and get some answers
Not the results I was expecting when I started this simple project.
BTW I have 10,400 miles on the Spyder and the stock pads have a lot of material left. My goal was to find pads that stop as well if not better, but without the noise.
Sorry to hear that Les! Wow, what an undertaking with the rear brake pad issue....good luck on the fix! Let us know the outcome!
Happy and safe rydin'
2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Chupaca
release the parking brake cable. You many time adjust the park brake as the pads wear down. When you put the new pads on you need to readjust the park brake or it will drag cause it is too tight...
I do have the cable off, but that did not help.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by skeetshooter
If it's like my 2008 was i had to take E brake cable and arm off then screw the shaft out until it stopped.I had plenty of room then to put new pads on.Then adjust your E brake and your ready to go.When you screw shaft out you can use c-clamp or pliers to spread pistons.
Thanks! The service manual states "turn back the parking brake to retract the piston" nothing about taking the arm off. I will have to try that.
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Make sure the pistons will retract using the C clamp. Clean everything first. Make sure the parking brake is taken apart, shaft retracted. I had one that was stubborn, a bit of debris was cocking the piston a tiny bit. Like you, I extended the pistons as far as I could, then used a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Once clean, it went back together.
Last edited by cptjam; 08-10-2014 at 11:15 PM.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Also, remove the cap to the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to go back into the reservoir. Stuff rags around it to catch any spillage. If the fluid level was at the top, there may not be enough room for the pistons to fully retract, hince the need to remove the cap.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by MarkLawson
Also, remove the cap to the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to go back into the reservoir. Stuff rags around it to catch any spillage. If the fluid level was at the top, there may not be enough room for the pistons to fully retract, hince the need to remove the cap.
Tried that too.
I call the shop mechanic from my dealership this moning and He said I should not have an issue pussing it back, and was unaware of the need to turn the piston as you press in. He had no suggestions that I had not already tried . I will try removing the parking break arm and turn out the shaft tonight and see if that works. If not I may have to remove the caliber and bring it into a shop.
Wish me luck!!
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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May I suggest to anyone doing their own service or repairs that they purchase the service manual for their model. The one for my 2011RSS was $23.50. I bought the one for my new 2014 RT for $28.50. They are digital downloads (pdf) and you can print the pages you need for each repair.
i got mine at www.brpmanuals.com. It also included a Flat Rate Manual so you can predict what dealer repairs would cost.
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Very Active Member
Mine were tight on the back. When I put it together so I left the stainless clips off. I did put the red disc brake goop on the backs. Yes. I had the pistons in and the park brake disconnected. Oh yeah they still squeak from time to time .
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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New brakes
When replacing the brakes I've found that sanding them and cleaning with brake cleaner takes away the squeak. Brakes have a glaze on them and sand paper lightly taking away the glaze worked for me.
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Very Active Member
UPDATE
Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it
I see BajaRon said to email him, he makes brake pads, have you emailed him?
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Ok
Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it
Les,
rip into it! Since you are taking it in anyway, take everything apart! Since it is going to the dealer, have at it! I learn a lot by having at it. If I can't fix it, I at least learn things. Go for it!
joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
I see BajaRon said to email him, he makes brake pads, have you emailed him?
Cruzr Joe
I did indeed as I purchased the pads from Ron.
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
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Originally Posted by cptjam
Les,
rip into it! Since you are taking it in anyway, take everything apart! Since it is going to the dealer, have at it! I learn a lot by having at it. If I can't fix it, I at least learn things. Go for it!
joe
Joe,
If it was not still under warranty I would! My thinking is if this is defective my dealer should cover it, but if I take it in pieces they may have an issue with that.
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
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Pictures
Here is the rear caliber. There are two .156 dia. holes in the piston that appear to be for pins as if there should be a tool that would allow you to rotate the piston. I rented a kit for pressing the pistons back into their bore from an auto parts store, but all the pin plates were the wrong size.Rear Brake 001.jpgRear Brake 002.jpgRear Brake 003.jpg
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UPDATE No2
Today I watched as the flatbed truck drove away with my Spyder on it's way to the dealer. The dealer ordered a new rear caliber as they also could not get the piston to retract. They promased me that I would have it back in time for our departure next Thursday for the Spyder Rendezvous. Keeping my fingers crossed
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
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WOW....
Happy and safe rydin'
2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
Today I watched as the flatbed truck drove away with my Spyder on it's way to the dealer. The dealer ordered a new rear caliber as they also could not get the piston to retract. They promased me that I would have it back in time for our departure next Thursday for the Spyder Rendezvous. Keeping my fingers crossed
I'm sorry, I've been so busy I never got any further than replying to your PM/Email.
0.315" is exactly what it should be so that isn't the problem. I would say a new caliper will resolve the issue. I wonder why the piston would not retract completely?
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
I'm sorry, I've been so busy I never got any further than replying to your PM/Email.
0.315" is exactly what it should be so that isn't the problem. I would say a new caliper will resolve the issue. I wonder why the piston would not retract completely?
Now that is the $64,000 question!
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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