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  1. #1
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    Default A Spyder Engineering Comment

    One of my beefs about the Spyder was its belt drive - I don't know about the Flatlanders, or Easterners, but out here, we have LOTS of gravel roads, and in the Summer, a large number of our connector roads are "chip sealed" - which is simply thick oil and gravel chips, and is considered "paving" out here.

    Gravel roads ate two belts and one rear sprocket - one on each of my Spyders. The addition of the Spyder Pops guard did help, until we hit 14 miles of chip seal on our tour last year. We had two Spyders, plus belt driven Hardleys, and only the Spyders turned into rock grinders - and that occurred BIG TIME!

    Fortunately, neither Spyder suffered catastrophic damage, as we were hundreds of miles from the nearest Spyder dealer, but it did entail a lot of time under the bike, digging rock chips out of the drive sprockets.

    Those of you who are looking forward to visiting the West, late in the Summer riding season - be advised. Traveling above 20 mph on new chip seal will (1) drive you nuts, and (2) will probably cost you a belt and/or drive sprocket.

    Just FYI BRP - but it's something that will continue to keep me away from the BRP showroom floor.

  2. #2
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    Belts; while not the perfect power delivery system, are very efficient, very light, and require the least maintnenance.
    BRP had to make a choice..
    And so have you...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
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    I'm sure the belt can be protected more than it is... But it would be custom as there's not a big market for it.

    But if someone were to design a real nice shroud that really covered it up good BRP might take notice and just incorporate something like it in future designs.

    Thanks for the info tho. I haven't had any rock related issues in my travels, but I try to avoid gravel or even chip sealed roads for more than the shortest of distances.

    Now I know to avoid them even more!

  4. #4
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    Default comment

    STREET BIKE DUHHH!!!!!

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Belts; while not the perfect power delivery system, are very efficient, very light, and require the least maintnenance.
    BRP had to make a choice..
    And so have you...
    x 2

    And this, coming from someone who has replaced three belts do to rock damage.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 02-22-2014 at 04:13 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  6. #6
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    and require the least maintnenance.
    Less than changing 8 oz of oil every 24,000 miles like you do with a Goldwing final drive? I don't think so!
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  7. #7
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    You can't imagine what it was like having to drive 14 miles with your $25,000 toy sounding like something out of Starbucks.... Whither a decent FULL guard, or shaft drive, it needs to be addressed in something that expensive. As I said, the Hardleys never had the problem.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Belts; while not the perfect power delivery system, are very efficient, very light, and require the least maintnenance.
    BRP had to make a choice..
    And so have you...
    This has been a rehashed subject here many times they should have protected the belt much better ,everyone has a bunch of reasons to argue against a shaft if you had ever had a shaft the advantages are plain easier tire change no belt alignment or tension no rocks stranding you with a broken belt no worn sprockets the weight argument is not a big deal after all the attitude on here is if you dont have a rt instead of an rs you need to upgrade well there is a 200 lbs saving right there, the main problem with the belt on the spyder is that the sprocket is almost as big as the tire and if you pull off the road into soft gravel your belt is running in gravel ,there is no excuse for no gaurd on the inside of the belt, but it is what it is ride on and enjoy

  9. #9
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    Default Harley problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    You can't imagine what it was like having to drive 14 miles with your $25,000 toy sounding like something out of Starbucks.... Whither a decent FULL guard, or shaft drive, it needs to be addressed in something that expensive. As I said, the Hardleys never had the problem.
    One of my Harleys with belt drive broke the belt from a rock that put a hole in it.

  10. #10
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    The last two streetbikes I had were shafties... They were nice; just rather unspectacular wehn they'd jack you up and down as you either applied or reduced power.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
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    I have some of each. They each have plusses and minuses. I have no preference, but I understand why some do. The Spyder isn't meant to go off road in deep gravel or sand so I can't speak to that, but fresh chip sealed roads are a nemisis for the beast. I have picked up stones myself...no matter how slowly I rode, and with Spyderpops belt guard in place. There may be an engineering answer, but maybe not a practical one. I don't thing it is shaft drive, where the Spyder is concerned. Even BMW had some problems in that area. The best answer seems to be aware, check the belt and sprockets immediately if a vibration develops, and avoid gravel and chip-sealed roads when you can. The other alternative is to choose something else to ride. Like every machine ever made, the Spyder is not for everyone.

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    *BING* Thank you!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Pennyrick's Avatar
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    Just over three years ago we were on a ride and my wife was on her 2010 RT while I was on my just-acquired 2011 RT. The GPS told us to get off the main road and we ended up on a very neat two lane twisty that abruptly ended into a one lane gravel road.

    We pressed on and rode for about for or five miles until the gravel became pretty loose and the rear wheels started to break away often. We turned around and headed back to pavement but by then we both had funny grinding noises coming from the rear end. I took a flat head screwdriver and cleaned out the ridges in the belts as best I could and we headed homeward.

    My wife's Spyder was fine but I had a piece of rock lodged in mine that eventually ground itself to dust but not before putting a hole in the belt. It held together under very careful acceleration until I got to the dealer. Putting a new belt on a Spyder with less than a thousand miles was a good early lesson for us.

    We do not venture near unpaved (or shot and chip) roads ever!
    Penny and Rick have owned many motorcycles starting in 1974 with Honda’s, then to Suzukis, Gold Wings and ultimately Spyders.
    ‘74 Honda 360T (pair); ‘78 Suzuki GS 1000 (pair); ‘’82 Honda Aspencade; ‘84 Honda 400; ‘87 Yamaha 1100; ‘99 Honda Valkyrie; ‘01 Suzuki Burgman(triked); ‘02 Honda GL 1800(triked); ‘10 Spyder RTSE; ‘11 Spyder RTSM; ‘12 Spyder RTSL (pair); ‘20 Spyder RTL (current)


  14. #14
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I have some of each. They each have plusses and minuses. I have no preference, but I understand why some do. The Spyder isn't meant to go off road in deep gravel or sand so I can't speak to that, but fresh chip sealed roads are a nemisis for the beast. I have picked up stones myself...no matter how slowly I rode, and with Spyderpops belt guard in place. There may be an engineering answer, but maybe not a practical one. I don't thing it is shaft drive, where the Spyder is concerned. Even BMW had some problems in that area. The best answer seems to be aware, check the belt and sprockets immediately if a vibration develops, and avoid gravel and chip-sealed roads when you can. The other alternative is to choose something else to ride. Like every machine ever made, the Spyder is not for everyone.
    and double "BING" as Bob Said.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double Trouble View Post
    Just over three years ago we were on a ride and my wife was on her 2010 RT while I was on my just-acquired 2011 RT. The GPS told us to get off the main road and we ended up on a very neat two lane twisty that abruptly ended into a one lane gravel road.

    We pressed on and rode for about for or five miles until the gravel became pretty loose and the rear wheels started to break away often. We turned around and headed back to pavement but by then we both had funny grinding noises coming from the rear end. I took a flat head screwdriver and cleaned out the ridges in the belts as best I could and we headed homeward.

    My wife's Spyder was fine but I had a piece of rock lodged in mine that eventually ground itself to dust but not before putting a hole in the belt. It held together under very careful acceleration until I got to the dealer. Putting a new belt on a Spyder with less than a thousand miles was a good early lesson for us.

    We do not venture near unpaved (or shot and chip) roads ever!
    If we did that, we could choose freeways - which are to be avoided whenever possible. There are some simply fantastic roads out here, all of which are chip sealed. We even use gravel in the winter on our streets - no one uses salt or other chemicals. So if you want to ride between November and April, there will be gravel on the roads.... Also, many of our roads have gravel sections included - and chip sealing is found even in the cities, throughout the Northwest. Perhaps that's why there are so few Spyder dealers out here??

    My only point was that either BRP or the aftermarket needs to offer something better to protect that huge sprocket and $300 belt. Not riding is not an option.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The last two streetbikes I had were shafties... They were nice; just rather unspectacular wehn they'd jack you up and down as you either applied or reduced power.
    Maybe I just wasn't paying attention but I've sure never noticed any such reactions on my GW 1800.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  17. #17
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    Red face

    Time will tell. Product change and marketing have been bunk mates for a long time.

    And just to make sure I'm understood. Belt or shaft makes no difference to me. Like everything else, there are two sides to every fence. The only ones that end up with holes in their pants are those who sit on it.
    Last edited by Jeriatric; 02-23-2014 at 12:49 AM.

  18. #18
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    It's rather disheartening for me to read about belt and gravel problems. I was just thinking the other day now with the 3 wheel security of the Spyder I can travel some of the mountain roads of Idaho. Sad to find out maybe I can't, or at least shouldn't.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  19. #19
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    Default Installed spyderpops gravel guard

    Quote Originally Posted by WasWinger View Post
    It's rather disheartening for me to read about belt and gravel problems. I was just thinking the other day now with the 3 wheel security of the Spyder I can travel some of the mountain roads of Idaho. Sad to find out maybe I can't, or at least shouldn't.
    never had an issue..and many times I have found ms Spyder on chip seal and not by choice...never have had an issue. Based on my experience I will have Spyderpops fix up my new '14 before I head onto our roads.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonrider View Post
    One of my beefs about the Spyder was its belt drive - I don't know about the Flatlanders, or Easterners, but out here, we have LOTS of gravel roads, and in the Summer, a large number of our connector roads are "chip sealed" - which is simply thick oil and gravel chips, and is considered "paving" out here.

    Gravel roads ate two belts and one rear sprocket - one on each of my Spyders. The addition of the Spyder Pops guard did help, until we hit 14 miles of chip seal on our tour last year. We had two Spyders, plus belt driven Hardleys, and only the Spyders turned into rock grinders - and that occurred BIG TIME!

    Fortunately, neither Spyder suffered catastrophic damage, as we were hundreds of miles from the nearest Spyder dealer, but it did entail a lot of time under the bike, digging rock chips out of the drive sprockets.

    Those of you who are looking forward to visiting the West, late in the Summer riding season - be advised. Traveling above 20 mph on new chip seal will (1) drive you nuts, and (2) will probably cost you a belt and/or drive sprocket.

    Just FYI BRP - but it's something that will continue to keep me away from the BRP showroom floor.
    it is here in Belgium is also a known problem ... Grevel / chips and belt .
    especially nice quiet tourist roads.
    a first ride was a road, came the problem immediately.
    fortunately the belt without damage!
    but it got me thinking ..... the belt problem solving in its entirety. on
    vibration and possible damage chips .
    so the idea was born to an adjustable belt tensioner that both problems can absorb .
    on the one hand that the prescribed Newton pressure does not exceed 450Nm ..... "if the belt tensioner is mounted ."
    This indicates that " no " more vibrations .

    Now the chips / Grevel problem ...
    The belt tension is adjusted to a constant 300Nm through the arrangement of the belt tensioner .
    This would result that the belt is going to be flexible .......
    example ::
    constant pressure belt 300Nm , but a chip rotates about the gear ?
    The belt tensioner gives flexibility ......
    So ! The chips will be no sudden increase in Nm setting .... which leads back to damage to the belt or gear .

    this way I solved it with great satisfaction ....
    no more vibrations ! and driving on gravel roads is not so dangerous , though keep it at a moderate speed driving on these roads .

    look for a previous thread that has been written about this homemade belt tensioner

  21. #21
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    Smooth spyder or air wings tensioner solves gravel problems? Got the missing belt guard 2012 noticed mine cracked recently didn't even buy it straight from Harvey and he warranted it.

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
    2014 RT SE6 LTD , White

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbNormy View Post
    Smooth spyder or air wings tensioner solves gravel problems? Got the missing belt guard 2012 noticed mine cracked recently didn't even buy it straight from Harvey and he warranted it.

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
    Sure! I made an additional belt protector.
    the left side of the belt is shielded from gear to gear from an aluminum plate which is of course possible gavel already keep away.
    but what I mean is that it is feasible damage to the belt are restricted. with a belt tensioner
    but the setting must be correct ..

  23. #23
    Very Active Member AbNormy's Avatar
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    Selling them or giving them away?,I'd be interested...


    Living the dream while I still can!
    2012 RT A&C bought new 42312 sold July 2018 56k miles currently driving a 2014 RTSE6 LTD bought October 2018 w 6800 miles nicely farkled
    2014 RT SE6 LTD , White

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbNormy View Post
    Selling them or giving them away?,I'd be interested...


    Living the dream while I still can!
    I'm just a regular guy, trying to describe what makes the ride more enjoyable spyder improvements.
    one can buy anything! .... but invent it yourself? what results is a lot more fun
    I have already described heat problems ... that work! and other things.
    but everyone needs to fill what they do with it self

  25. #25
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    Default It is all in the rear tire!

    It is all in the rear tire! a new or next to new tire will pick up more stones and then deposit them forward and downward on the belt. A tire with less tred depth does not have the ability to pick up the stones and deposit them where we don't want them... on the belt. There are always exceptions.

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