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Active Member
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Nice writeup Nexus. I'm thinking about transplanting both lever perches off of something... like a DL1000 Strom so the levers match. You could get matching Pazzo levers that way too. And add handguards. And another set of mirrors if you wanted.
Haven't really looked into it yet, but it's in the back of my mind.
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How about a source and part number for your slave cylinder? To me that is the tough part to find one the right size.
There are probably some ATV master cylinders that would work also, with enough volume, because they drive two front wheel disks. That is what I used on my TWTrike conversions.
Frank
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Nexus, You have a nice set up..But what did you use for a braded line and bango fitting at the master cylinder end..and how does the line attach to the slave cylinder ?? bango/flare/inverted flare ??
I would like to change from my cable set up to a hydraulic system but I would like to find a matching master cylinder to the Spyder one..Does anyone know of any ??
I read somewhere that the proto type Spyders had the hand brake on them..You would think that SOMEONE SOMEWHERE would have the exact parts needed to tap into the existing ABS brake system..or some hydraulic guru would be able to suppy the needed information..
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Active Member
Originally Posted by trikester
How about a source and part number for your slave cylinder? To me that is the tough part to find one the right size.
There are probably some ATV master cylinders that would work also, with enough volume, because they drive two front wheel disks. That is what I used on my TWTrike conversions.
Frank
Trikester
This slave cyl is on ebay - Item number: 360089816464 link below.
I am sure you can find another master cyl that will work just make sure its around 22mm bore.
NEXUS
Part No. 375-300
price: US $87.99
Push Slave Cylinder
Cylinder made from billet aluminum (anodized)
Easily adjusted with external threaded body
Extra long stroke
Internal return spring
Mount sold separately
1-3/8" total stroke with 7/8 master cylinder
FMR ENTERPRISES
CONNEAUT OH 44030
CELL PHONE: (440) 812-0185
E-MAIL: FREDMRACE@AOL.COM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COLEM...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-15-2022 at 12:27 PM.
Reason: Removed HEAPS of unused/useless ctrl Cmds! :-/ Final link - item no longer on ebay :-/
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Thanks Nexus!!!!
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Ok, I've ordered the slave cylinder so I'm "on my way" with this project.
The ebay site said only one was available. I wonder if I got the last one, or does the seller just list them one at a time?
Thanks again, nexus!
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Getting off to a bad start here! I ordered the slave (push) cylinder on ebay and everything went Ok until it arrived. They sent the wrong cylinder (a pull type with non-adjustabl mounting)!
When I called on the phone, a guy who sounded like he had just woken up, finally confirmed that they had screwed up and sent the wrong one. He said to send it back and they would send out the one I had ordered.
This is fine, except it cost me $15 to send back their mistake. I heard no offer of them paying for the return postage. Already I'm experiencing "cost over-runs" on my brake project. It's beginning to look like a government job
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I have now received both the master cylinder and the push slave cylinder so I'm ready to proceed.
One thing different, that I'm going to have to work out, is the mounting of the master on the handlebar. It looks like, in his photos, Nexus has gone to riser bars which I haven't done except for the factory 1" riser. I will have to figure out how to get the mount on there with the way the stock bar cover is made. Maybe I can cut some material off of it to make the master cylinder fit in front of it. This will be the first thing I will look at.
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I would really-really like to do this hand brake thing. But I don't want to get in over my head. I wish someone would make a kit for it.
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I would really-really like to do this hand brake thing. But I don't want to get in over my head. I wish someone would make a kit for it.
Dear NEXUS
I don’t know if you know my story but I am disabled person with a spyder and sometimes ridding with the cable hand bake that I had done is a little hard on the left hand. I sometimes have to use my right hand at the same time to hit the foot brake. So going hydraulic would be quite useful. If I buy all the parts that you used in this tutorial and came down to your neck of the woods with my bike would you be willing to help me put them in. I am mechanically capable of helping so I won’t be just sitting there having you do all the work but I am willing to pay you for the help. I know you probably not willing to take the responsibility of the job but I am sure that it would be much better than the cable braking system that I am using now. Please private message me if this is possible so I can make it happened. Also great work on the info and what you managed to do. Keep it up!
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Originally Posted by trikester
Well, I solved the problems with mounting the master cylinder yesterday. Because I still have the stock handlebars and the stock cover my situation was a little different than Nexus'. I removed the little black cylindrical cover between the handlebar cover and the start/stop switch console. Then I used a hacksaw to carefully cut off the tabs on the end of the handlebar cover. Realizing that if I scored the bar it could break under heavy pressure.
Now the more complicated part: I machined the spacer to space the master cylinder mount forward from the bar. Nexus had indicated that he also did this but it looked like I needed even more spacing. The spacer has to have a radius of 7/16" ( dia. 7/8") on both the outside and inside. So when looking at the end of the spacer it looks like a crescent moon. At the thickest point it is 3/8", therefore spacing the master cylinder 3/8" ahead of the front of the handlebar. Of course I now had to replace the original clamping bolts with longer 6mm bolts.
In Nexus' photos you can see that he ground a chamfer on the part of the hand lever that holds the bolt that pushes on the hydraulic plunger. I had to do that also in order to clear the start/stop sw console. Also the adjustment bolt that pushes on the hydraulic plunger has to have the head portion cut off. The bolt is then slotted with a hacksaw to make it into a set screw. Or the bolt can just be replaced with a 6mm x 20mm socket set screw. I chose the former.
It seemed funny yesterday evening, riding home from my shop with a hand brake the was not connected to anything. Good thing I didn't try to use it to stop.
Now I'm on to the tougher part of this project - the slave cylinder mounting & the clevis, etc., etc.
Sorry, the spell check function really messed up my post's appearance.
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by trikester
Sorry, the spell check function really messed up my post's appearance.
I was wondering why the strange paragraph ends, colored text and underlined text.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by trikester
Yeah, the mistake I made was not closing the spell check before hitting the submit tab. I was able to use the edit function to re-align some of the text (it was actually worse than what you see, before I did that) but edit would not let me close what the spell check had highlighted and underlined.
So, a word to the wise: Always remember to close spell check before posting or the wrath of your high school English grammer teacher will be apon you.
Click on edit function
then advance edit
then highlight the formatted text and the first icon on the top left is "Remove Text Formatting"
I fixed your first post.
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Hyda Brake
I'd like to have your hand brake system on my Spyder----How do I get it going---I'm about a 4 on a 10 point scale with mechanical talent....Thanks
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Great, thanks for the tip and repairing the text Lamont.
Continuing the hand brake saga.
Removing the RH Driver Foot Rest, as Can Am identifies it, has proved the most difficult and frustrating part of the project, so far.
After removing the four 8mm flange bolts, one of which need a U-joint on the socket drive to reach it, I found that getting the foot rest bracket out away from the master cylinder boot and off of the bike, was like working a Chinese puzzle. The edge of the bracket where the master cylinder mounts was caught behind a bolt end and bracket that was part of the main frame. After trying all of the angles of pulling and pushing I could use, I finally wrestled it away from the bike. I hope I didn't damage the boot on the cylinder. Before I re-installed the foot rest mount I ground away part of that edge so that it would be easier to get it past that bolt and flange. Can Am human engineering -grrrr!
Now with the mount, and brake pedal which is part of it, off of the bike I measured the distance from the surface of the casting to the center of the brake pedal where the factory clevis mounts. I came up with 31mm. This will be where the center of my slave cylinder will have to be aligned.
I will be mounting my slave cylinder using the same bosses in the foot rest casting that Nexus used but with one difference. Instead of tapping a thread into the hole in those bosses I drilled all the way through to the outside of the casting so I could use through bolts with nuts. This means I will have bolt heads showing on the outside, but I think the increase in strength over holes threaded part way into the casting is worth a little cosmetic damage.
The upper boss is a bigger diameter than the lower boss. I drilled the upper (larger) boss 5/16" diameter and the lower (smaller) boss 1/4". I will use an 8mm flange head bolt in the upper hole and, departing from metric, I will use a 1/4-28 "grade-8" bolt through the lower hole.
Another advantage to using through mounting holes is; when I get my slave cylinder mounting bracket fabricated I can position the cylinder where it needs to be, with the bracket on it, and using the through holes in the foot rest bracket, mark the hole locations in the cylinder bracket.
Tune in tomorrow folks, for another exciting episode.................
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by trikester
Great, thanks for the tip and repairing the text Lamont.
Continuing the hand brake saga.
Removing the RH Driver Foot Rest, as Can Am identifies it, has proved the most difficult and frustrating part of the project, so far...
Tune in tomorrow folks, for another exciting episode.................
Any chance of you throwing in pics of the stuff you are talking about throughout you post? I'm not exactly a well versed Spyder mechanic and about the second sentence of the step by step text had me starting to go off into the ozone layer. A few key pictures would help to clarify what you are talking about.
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Originally Posted by bjt
Any chance of you throwing in pics of the stuff you are talking about throughout you post? I'm not exactly a well versed Spyder mechanic and about the second sentence of the step by step text had me starting to go off into the ozone layer. A few key pictures would help to clarify what you are talking about.
Make it 2.
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Originally Posted by bjt
Any chance of you throwing in pics of the stuff you are talking about throughout you post? I'm not exactly a well versed Spyder mechanic and about the second sentence of the step by step text had me starting to go off into the ozone layer. A few key pictures would help to clarify what you are talking about.
Unfortunately, Lamonster changed this forum so that we have to use another photo sharing web site in order to post photos here. I used to post photos on this forum but I'm not inclined to use a photo sharing web site, so I can no longer post photos here.
However, I have been taking photos at every step of the project.
Last edited by trikester; 01-17-2009 at 12:09 PM.
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