can am trailer towing

[holeshot78]

Just purchased a new 2013 RT and I am looking to buy a can am trailer. How does the spyder handle the trailer and is there any performance or handling problems that I need to know about.
Any input would be appreciated before I spend the money.

[Papa]

I never pulled a trailer on any kind of vehicle before. I hooked up the 622 and rode 400 miles home with no problem. You have to remember its there at gas stations. Backing up does take some time and practice but its doable.


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[SpyderAnn01]

You don't even know it is back there. You may see a little drop in mileage but not too bad. As Papa said it takes a little practice to get good at backing up. Just make little corrections in the handlebars and you should do okay - big swings in the bars will surely have you jackknifed in no time. Allow yourself a little extra braking room and likewise you will lose a little acceleration power.

[CyncySpyder]

Just purchased a new 2013 RT and I am looking to buy a can am trailer. How does the spyder handle the trailer and is there any performance or handling problems that I need to know about.
Any input would be appreciated before I spend the money.

You didn't mention if you have the manual or SE5 transmission, so if you have the manual transmission, disreguard the following, cause it doesn't apply.

However, if you do have the SE5 it comes with a 'Trailer Mode' program that you can switch on and off in the settings sort of like that which is on an F150. Switching to trailer mode changes many of the computers parameters for such things as the VSS (Vehicle Stability System AKA:Nanny) DPS (Dynamic Power Stearing) etc.... but most of those changes are behind the scenes and you won't notice.

The BIG CHANGE that you MAY notice, especially if your used to shifting in the lower RPM range (under 4,500) is the higher set points for upshifting, and lower set-points for the Auto-Down-Shift to kick in. All this helps to keep the engine from lugging, and the brakes from having to do too much work.

I know the 1st time I engaged ours, back in 2010 when the RT first came to market, I had no idea about it and I thought I was going to blow the machine up and promptly took it straight to the dealer, just to be informed that it was programmed that way and was working as it should

I don't know the actual set-point #s, but it won't allow you to up-shift until around 5,000 RPMs (which you should be doing anyways to keep the engine in the power band) but if your not used to that, it can sound like the engine is screaming and going to blow, but its just fine, cause the Rotax Engine was built to be a high RPM engine. Just gotta get used to the sound. It will also Auto-Downshift earlier (say around 4,200) unlike when not in 'Trailer Mode' it will wait til somewhere around 2,400 RPMs if you don't down-shift yourself.

Those are just a few things to keep in mind. As others have stated, the RT-622 trailer really is a good unit, BRP did alot of work in getting the suspension on it set really well, to compensate for the RTs frame mounted hitch sans suspension. We had one with our 1st 2010 RT & hardly noticed it was back there. If they offered a camper option for it, we never would've sold it.

Good luck & Enjoy the Ryde

[jthornton]

You can't even tell it is back there till you back up... You will loose some MPG's when hauling it. Like Dave said if you have the SE5 there is a nanny trailer mode but I don't use it on mine. It doesn't have a clue if I'm going up or down hill so I use the grey matter between my ears to know when to shift. Once you get a few miles on the Spyder you will know when to shift.

With the 2013 you have the better brakes so even stopping will be a non-issue when towing. On my 2012 I give myself extra room to stop when towing.

JT

[bullant12]

It looks good, it has pleanty of room (can get 2 golf bags in and still have room for luggage) and it goes with the RT lines. When pulling it, I sometimes have to look to make sure it is still there.

As far as parking it, I usually look for a sideways parking or park further out. Also works to park in a "V" when there are 2 spaces, and my wife parks her RS-S in the gap.

I am still practicing how to back up with it, but I've been told that the trick to is is to watch your rear view mirrors instead of turning your head back.

[MouthPiece]

[QUOTE=bullant12;646613]It looks good, it has pleanty of room (can get 2 golf bags in and still have room for luggage) and it goes with the RT lines. When pulling it, I sometimes have to look to make sure it is still there.

As far as parking it, I usually look for a sideways parking or park further out. Also works to park in a "V" when there are 2 spaces, and my wife parks her RS-S in the gap.

I am still practicing how to back up with it, but I've been told that the trick to is is to watch your rear view mirrors instead of turning your head back.[/QUOTE]

Bingo!!! Also as was stated earlier, "try not to" (emphasis added) overcorrect when you're steering. Little corrections go a long way. It's not like backing a boat or 18 wheeler.

I would also echo what has been said earlier by others. It has been mentioned before in other threads, one of which was Lamont's when he commented about the fact that he thought the trailer actually stabilized or assisted in going through turns. I say amen to that.

Cindy & I were coming back from Maggie Valley. We were but 5 minutes from home. I was on Interstate 4, and it was pouring down raining. My spyder is a 2013 RT-S, and I have just about 12,500 miles on it. The back tire is pretty slick.

We hit a "pond" of water doing about 70 MPH. All hell broke loose from there. What happened gave new meaning to the song "Slippin & Ah Slidin" (Little Richard). I managed NOT to overcorrect and backed off the throttle. As the nose was going back and forth, I truly believe that the trailer assisted in getting my spyder' course corrected.

I actually find myself wanting to have the trailer behind me a lot in that it has become my little "pickem up truck", and I can do all my honey dos. I highly recommend getting it.

Chris

[captblack]

I like the trailer and have no issues with it at all. It really makes traveling comfortable! I don't have the 622 but still don't even know I have mine back there. MPG drops to around 30.

All in all, a great upgrade

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[bmwlarry]

I pull an Aspen Sentry tent trailer. It pulls like its not back there. It does cut MPG by about 3 mpg. You have to keep in mind the weight and the tongue weight. bikentrailer.jpgIMG_4886fb.jpgreartrailerside.jpgtrailerrear.jpg

[NancysToy]

Remember that a trailer cuts in closer on a turn than the tow vehicle. Allow plenty of room to the curb in your turns...and around the gas station islands. You'll get used to it after a while, but look back a lot to make sure where the trailer is tracking at first. Some parking lot practice wouldn't hurt. Better to run over some cones than a curb.

[PeacefulBen]

We have never had any maintenance or mechanical problems with the RT-622 trailer. Love how much it will carry for trips to SpyderFest and Maggie Valley. (We use assorted sizes of clear plastice tubs with lids for storing) I did, however, get in a hurry once, and loaded it without thinking about balance. Even tho I could not feel it on the Spyder, I looked back and noticed it started to "wobble" a bit after I got up to interstate speed. I pulled over at the next exit, re-adjusted the main weight to be centered over the axle, and never had another issue. We LOVE our trailer. We actually carry a couple of sack chairs, so when we stop, we can sit down and relax, eat a bite and enjoy the scenery.

[Magdave]

So is it worth spending $499 for the BRP hitch with the shock absorbing or is the $299 solid hitch good enough? How much is the harness if you buy it separately?

[bullant12]

So is it worth spending $499 for the BRP hitch with the shock absorbing or is the $299 solid hitch good enough? How much is the harness if you buy it separately?

If you are buying the RT622 trailer, I would not hesitate in buying BRP's trailer hitch.

[jthornton]

So is it worth spending $499 for the BRP hitch with the shock absorbing or is the $299 solid hitch good enough? How much is the harness if you buy it separately?

The BRP hitch connects to your swingarm, I assume any after market hitch is the same. I put the BRP hitch on mine. Make sure if you get an after market hitch it comes with the trailer light harness like the BRP hitch does...

JT

[lyonsden]

So is it worth spending $499 for the BRP hitch with the shock absorbing or is the $299 solid hitch good enough? How much is the harness if you buy it separately?

I was told you can't buy just the harness. It only comes with the hitch. I looked at building one or buying after market. Finally decided to go ahead and just purchase the BRP hitch. I would have had probably $350 in the aftermarket and wiring. Now I have no problems. Nothing worse then problems on a motorcycle when you're away from home. JMO.

[NancysToy]

BRPs, nor any other after-market hitch for the Spyders that I've seen, has any of its own 'shock absorbing' equiptment built into it. In my post, I was referring to the Great Suspension System that BRP built INTO the RT-622 TRAILER, NOT THE HITCH.

I don't want you to mis-understand. All Spyder Hitch's that I'm aware of are all bolted thru the hollow rear axle of the SwingArm of the Spyder and since the rear shock is located above the SwingArm, it doesn't provide any shock absortption for the hitch itself. Therefor, anything being mounted to the hitch would need its own suspension system, otherwise it would surely provide a less than comfortable towing situation IMHO-Dave~

Sorry Dave, but you are wrong! The BRP hitch does have a patented shock absorbing system built into it. The side brackets are attached to the hitch yoke with urethane bushings and rubber sleeves. The yoke "floats" on these bushings, and absorb shocks to the hitch. The system is very effective at reducing shocks which could be transmitted to the swingarm, and possibly cause failures of the hitch or swingarm/swingarm bushings.

[CyncySpyder]

Sorry Dave, but you are wrong! The BRP hitch does have a patented shock absorbing system built into it. The side brackets are attached to the hitch yoke with urethane bushings and rubber sleeves. The yoke "floats" on these bushings, and absorb shocks to the hitch.

Now, with your enlightenment, it all makes a little better sense to me. Having our pre-trip inspections done at Lexington Power Sports (they did them free for the entire group) I noticed how on another (close to brand new) RTs hitch seemed so solid, but how ours had a little play in it and I didn't understand why there would be such a difference. Having almost 40,000 miles will probably loose'n it up just a tad bit

Now I see the light, thank you my friend I stand corrected in my previous post and learned something new today Have I mentioned lately how much I love this site?

[NancysToy]

Now, with your enlightenment, it all makes a little better sense to me. Having our pre-trip inspections done at Lexington Power Sports (they did them free for the entire group) I noticed how on another (close to brand new) RTs hitch seemed so solid, but how ours had a little play in it and I didn't understand why there would be such a difference. Having almost 40,000 miles will probably loose'n it up just a tad bit

Now I see the light, thank you my friend I stand corrected in my previous post and learned something new today Have I mentioned lately how much I love this site?

If you have excessive play in the hitch, the four bolts that attach the yoke to the brackets need to be tightened. The rubber biscuits have metal sleeves that allows the bolts to be torqued down snugly. There should be no easy play or rattling. If you tow to lok with it loose you could wear out the bushings, and they cannot be separately replaced. I have had these bolts loosen fairly often, so checking them is now part of my periodic maintenance at the oil change intervals.

[Magdave]

Sorry Dave, but you are wrong! The BRP hitch does have a patented shock absorbing system built into it. The side brackets are attached to the hitch yoke with urethane bushings and rubber sleeves. The yoke "floats" on these bushings, and absorb shocks to the hitch. The system is very effective at reducing shocks which could be transmitted to the swingarm, and possibly cause failures of the hitch or swingarm/swingarm bushings.

Exactly as I thought. Just because I am a Noob doesn't mean I do not know a thing or 2 about these . Now my question still stands is it worth $200 more for the new hitch and harness?

[NancysToy]

Exactly as I thought. Just because I am a Noob doesn't mean I do not know a thing or 2 about these . Now my question still stands is it worth $200 more for the new hitch and harness?

I think so. Between the quick attchment/removal feature, the patented shock absorbing feature, and the plug-n-play harness with built-in converter, as well as good installation instructions, it is a decent value.