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  1. #1
    arntufun
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    Default Valve adjustment question

    Forget the manual and warranty for a minute .


    Now that people have had the Spyder for awhile and put lots of miles on, who has waited to perform the valve adjustment until much later than recommended ??????

    How many miles did you go, and how were they when you finally got them checked. Was there much adjustment needed if any ????? Please also include if you are a higher RPM rider or do you fall in the 4500 hundred and you shift catagory.



    Reason for asking is, some bikes need to be adjusted and some never need it. Trying to find out what the Spyder falls under.
    Last edited by arntufun; 03-16-2013 at 10:17 AM.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default waiting


    2018 F3 LIMITED

  3. #3
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    Default when..??

    All manufacturers recommend service before you reach limits. You know your oil will work well for more that 3000 miles, you know spark plugs last way longer than recommended, you know tires have miles left after wear limits etc. Mostly up to you if you want to push it. On valves with shims under bucket I have found that they can go for a long time if proper oil maintenance and not red lining too much in maintained. I use a mechanics stethascope to listen to each valve and see if there is any significant difference or excessive clatter. Then thats just me...
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    I Went 19 thousand miles before i sold the Spyder and never even check them , As how hard i road, I wasn't easy or overly hard, I just rode.

    Just to add;.. akspyderman can give more info.
    Last edited by boborgera; 03-16-2013 at 10:44 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by arntufun View Post
    Forget the manual and warranty for a minute .


    Now that people have had the Spyder for awhile and put lots of miles on, who has waited to perform the valve adjustment until much later than recommended ??????

    How many miles did you go, and how were they when you finally got them checked. Was there much adjustment needed if any ????? Please also include if you are a higher RPM rider or do you fall in the 4500 hundred and you shift catagory.



    Reason for asking is, some bikes need to be adjusted and some never need it. Trying to find out what the Spyder falls under.
    I have a friend who is a 30 year foreign car mechanic and a Tec inspector at the motorcycle race track when I ask him this ? He told me to do a compression check new then check it once in a while there after , as the valves wear into the head the gap will decrease to the point where the cam will hold them open slightly and leak air lowering compression reading
    2 happy happy spyders

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I finally broke down and had a valve adjustment check at 28,000 miles on my RT. The valves were in tolerance and no adjustment was necessary. Another $600 wasted IMO.

    I did it on my first 2008 GS at the required interval and $600 later I felt somewhat shafted. I am now thinking that the third recommended interval might be the charm.

    I know that BRP would not like to hear this--but the warranty was out on the RT anyway. It is a calculated risk--but so far, I have spent $1200 or so--for nothing!

    I run my spyder in the "happy" range--4500-5500 rpm. I have run it up to 7500 or so when doing a pass, but that is not a norm for me.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  7. #7
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    Lightbulb

    Don't mind spending it. HATE wasting it.

  8. #8
    arntufun
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    Don't mind spending it. HATE wasting it.


    Aint that the truth........., that's another reason for this thread. I have never seen a poster say/post that their valves were out of tolerance. Everyone usually posts they are fine and pays the high labor costs for nothing.

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    Maybe somebody should go get the high-mileage pilots and see what thier bikes told them...

    Who out there has 50,000 miles on an engine, and what have you done regarding valve adjustments?
    (Sorry Doc!)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #10
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    with Arntu 100%.

    I will have close to the 45,000 miles at the end of season 2013 but don't plan on having another valve check at that time. I am also interested in others who have went beyond 50,000 before a valve adjustment was needed.

    Last edited by ARtraveler; 03-18-2013 at 01:46 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arntufun View Post
    Aint that the truth........., that's another reason for this thread. I have never seen a poster say/post that their valves were out of tolerance. Everyone usually posts they are fine and pays the high labor costs for nothing.
    And when some have it done at like 12,000 You wonder if it ever even got done??
    The mechanics know a 12,000 mile machine is not likely to need a valve adjustment and they Like $600-$800 Dollars just fine!!!

    I have 24,000 Miles on the GS and Won,t be doing a valve check any time soooon.
    I would do a compression check next plug change (35,000 Miles) as long as the airbox is off .

    Would a difference in compression actually indicate the need for Valve shims???

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I have also stated a couple times that some unscroupulous (spelling ?) dealers may surely charge for the job and do nothing at all--just because. If you leave your with them, how would you know? That is a real profit margin builder for no work at all.

    Caveat Emptor: Let the buyer beware

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  13. #13
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    I have also stated a couple times that some unscroupulous (spelling ?) dealers may surely charge for the job and do nothing at all--just because. If you leave your with them, how would you know? That is a real profit margin builder for no work at all.

    Caveat Emptor: Let the buyer beware

    Example: One would think checking spark plugs would mean pulling them to see what shape they are in. Right.

    Well, how about this check. With buds plugged in...shut down one cylinder at a time. If it doesn't miss. Everything must be OK. Check your receipt and tell us what that cost you.

    Like this.
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...chmentid=22616

    Last edited by Jeriatric; 03-16-2013 at 06:08 PM.

  14. #14
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    Randy,
    Spydrjockey's logged over 70,000 miles on his... PM him!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
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    A very good example of how to check and also how to adjust the valve adjustment is on this page Its an aplilia falco site but its the same engine http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/valves.html

  16. #16
    Teddys favorite human
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    Lightbulb We just had it done at 34,000 miles & they were reported to be in spec.

    We waited til the 34K mark & obviously could've waited longer sense all was still reported to be in spec. I think you know how we ryde pretty well, wouldn't you agree?

    189.jpg195.jpg196.jpg2011-07-30 LakeStopwithArntufun 017.jpg

  17. #17
    arntufun
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyncySpyder View Post
    We waited til the 34K mark & obviously could've waited longer sense all was still reported to be in spec. I think you know how we ryde pretty well, wouldn't you agree?

    189.jpg195.jpg196.jpg2011-07-30 LakeStopwithArntufun 017.jpg


    Thanks Dave, thats good news and yes, I know you can ride it.

    Boy, My Spyder looked plain two years ago

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by arntufun View Post
    Thanks Dave, thats good news and yes, I know you can ride it.

    Boy, My Spyder looked plain two years ago
    It's tough to stop once the Farkling kicks in!

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    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  19. #19
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    I'm so glad to our member who keep us finding all the answers to all question we would have ask? It may takes me close to ten years for my next valve adj. Happy days are coming.

  20. #20
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    Default Sorry so late with this post

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Randy,
    Spydrjockey's logged over 70,000 miles on his... PM him!
    I went to over 53000 miles before I had the valves checked and they were well within tolerance. I decided to have it done then because it was in the shop for clutch basket noise so they replaced the clutch basket and I figured I should get it done at that time. I had talked to the dealer before about it in a casual manner and he didn't come right out and say it but left me with the impression that he did not think it was necessary to have it done especially at the recommended intervals. I had never heard any suspicious noise to do with the valves......but not sure that you would. It really took a wieght off my shoulders though, when I had it done at that late mileage and everything was in spec.
    Last edited by Spyderjockey; 03-19-2013 at 08:08 AM.

  21. #21
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    Well that's a load off of my mind...
    Thanks Jim!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  22. #22
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    thanks for this thread, I've got 36,000 on my 2010 RT-SM5 and was thinking I had better get a valve adjustment, but wasn't sure if necessary. Bike runs great, I'll skip the adjustment and spend the money you guys just saved me for farkles. Thanks again for the info Spyderlovers gives to all of us that need help.

  23. #23
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    I know that I'm looking at hitting 15,000 miles pretty early this season. It's good to know that I don't have to feel like the bike will self-destruct if it's not at the shop for the valves quite as early as they suggest.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  24. #24
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Maybe somebody should go get the high-mileage pilots and see what thier bikes told them...

    Who out there has 50,000 miles on an engine, and what have you done regarding valve adjustments?
    (Sorry Doc!)
    On 3 engines same bike:
    6,000 miles (OEM engine, 2008 BRP requirement @6,000 miles)
    12,000
    24,000
    36,000+ front cylinder exhaust shim
    48,000
    60,000
    72,000+ all front and rear cylinder I and E shims
    84,000
    98,000 miles (engine #2) (2010 BRP requirement @12,000 miles)
    110,000
    122,000+ all front and rear cylinder I and E shims
    130,000 (engine #3) (2012 BRP requirement @14,000 miles)
    150,000
    165,000
    185,000+ all front and rear cylinder I and E shims

  25. #25
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    So you're even getting pretty decent mileage between having to add shims to the top-end...
    But of course; you've always run yours pretty easy...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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