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oil changes
is there a torque setting on oil filter caps.
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
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Originally Posted by docdoru
20 Nm (12 lb ft).
11 N-m (97 lbf-in) is what the filter caps use. The drain plugs are 20 N-m (15 lbf-ft).
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If you tighten filter cover bolts to 20Nm, you're going to have a bad day.
I accidentally set torque wrench to 13Nm, snapped bolt. Now I tighten to 10Nm only.
Michael / GoodVybrations.
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It should be noted that these are dry torque values. If the screws or the threads in the case are oily, you will overtorque even at 11 N-m, and could break a screw or strip the case. Be sure to clean the screws and threads thoroughly (don't just wipe them off), or reduce the torque value.
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Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Originally Posted by NancysToy
11 N-m (97 lbf- in) is what the filter caps use. The drain plugs are 20 N-m (15 lbf- ft).
My bad, 11 Nm for filter caps and 20 Nm for the drain.
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SpyderLovers Founder
The only time I've ever broke a bolt is when I used a torque wrench.
I do use them on things like head bolts but other than that I go by feel. I would not use a torque wrench on oil filter cap bolts, these have an o-ring so just get it tight by hand. IMHO
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
The only time I've ever broke a bolt is when I used a torque wrench.
I do use them on things like head bolts but other than that I go by feel. I would not use a torque wrench on oil filter cap bolts, these have an o-ring so just get it tight by hand. IMHO
Agree.
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Question:
Who in here has those nice drainplugs that you can actually put a wrench on with worry of stripping them out?
(Within reason; of course!)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Question:
Who in here has those nice drainplugs that you can actually put a wrench on with worry of stripping them out?
(Within reason; of course!)
I put them on my New RT a week ago at the first oil change. There called Gold Plugs and have a very strong magnet on each plug- Oil Drain and Tank. One is 16mm Hex bolt and the other 17mm hex bolt. Probably NOT needed but so are aftermarket exhausts?
I still use a torque wrench on these bolts BUT use the even feel method on the filter bolts.
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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Gold Plugs...
Thanks!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Question:
Who in here has those nice drainplugs that you can actually put a wrench on with worry of stripping them out?
(Within reason; of course!)
here you go Mr bob http://drainplugmagnets.com/canamspyder.php
Rewaco RF-1 GT
Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
10.57 gallons
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Wow.
I never thought I'd ever say this, but I believe you are totally wrong on this.
I'm wrong that the only bolts I've ever broke are the ones I used a torque wrench on or wrong that you should just go by feel on the filter cap bolts? I did say IMHO at the end so I guess this is IYHO
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
I see.
Your board so I guess you're right.
No not at all, it's my opinion just like yours, no better no worst.
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Sorry, but you guys using your 3/8" drive clicker torque wrench for small hardware with light torques are looking for problems....especially with fine thread stainless hardware....and even more so if that hardware threads into aluminum...
If your dead set on using a torque wrench on small fasteners then buy a good 1/4" inch/lb torque wrench. At least then you'll have a better feel for the bolts. Don't rely on converting inches to lbs. Still go by "feel". If it feels wrong before the "click"....stop....lol.
Personally, I only use a torque wrench where there are multiple bolts holding down a large surface like a head, valve covers etc etc.
For a single fastener or two I feel more comfortable snugging it down on my own based on feel vs. a set torque value. I've never had issues with breaking bolts or leaks from lack of torque.
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Gold plugs here. Great product!
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
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Very Active Member
HOW MUCH TO TIGHTEN
Here goes IMHO, if you tighten by feel and don't tighten too much it may leak..........so what.......then tighten it some more !Mike....
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lamonster
The only time I've ever broke a bolt is when I used a torque wrench.
I do use them on things like head bolts but other than that I go by feel. I would not use a torque wrench on oil filter cap bolts, these have an o-ring so just get it tight by hand. IMHO
Absolutely, 100% .
Never torqued a small bolt, never broke one and never stripped one (that hadn't already been trashed by someone else, usually a 'Professional', probably with a torque wrench).
To each his own but this works for me.
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
<a href='https://www.spyderlovers.com/adserver/www/delivery/ck.php?zoneid=13' target='_blank'><img src='https://www.spyderlovers.com/adserver/www/delivery/avw.php?zoneid=13&cb=7845674567' border='0' alt='' /></a>
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You guys are starting to scare me again...
And here I was; with my courage screwed on tight enough to almost order those bolts...
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There is nothing wrong with using a torque wrench on small screws...but there are a lot of "Ifs" involved. Tightening by hand may be just as suitable, but it takes a careful hand, some knowledge, and you have to be careful not to overtighten by hand, too. Those of us that have done this a long time have the feel. Newbies may not, nor may people who are very strong, work with heavy equipment a lot, or people who have problems with the feeling in their hands. For them, using the proper torque wrench, in the proper manner, may be the best bet.
In using a torque wrench, it needs to have the right range for the fastener at hand. A torque wrench is the most accurate between 10%-20% of its scale and 80%-90%. Using a large torque wrench on a small fastener is an invitation to disaster. Most torque specs are for dry fasteners. Oily fasters or threads will cause the fastener to be overtorqued. A rathet or "clicker" wrench should always be backed off when not in use. Keeping tension on the spring will cause it to take a set, and it will inevitably overtighten the fastener...sometimes by many times the setting. A "clicker" wrench should be tested or calibrated against a beam-type wrench periodically...or anytime you find it accidentally stored with the setting above the minimum. Using a torque wrench takes care, just like tightening by hand. Neither method is right for everyone. Whichever method you choose, make sure you use good technique and the proper procedures.
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If I may ask what is probably a stupid question (not my first!)
What's wrong with just using the old " tighten them as much as you needed to loosen them" method?
Can a 6mm bolt tell the difference between 10 lb/ft and 12 lb/ft?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
If I may ask what is probably a stupid question (not my first!)
What's wrong with just using the old " tighten them as much as you needed to loosen them" method?
Can a 6mm bolt tell the difference between 10 lb/ft and 12 lb/ft?
The torque needed to loosen a fastener can vary a lot from that needed to tighten it. Steel screws into alloy cases usually take more torque to remove than to tighten. Same goes for fasteners with threadlocker on them. In other cases a fastener may have loosened over time, from vibration mostly. That fastener needs to be tightened more than the torque it took to remove it. A fastener cannot tell what it is torqued to, but an inadeqauately tightened fastener can leak, allow the item being attached to warp or be damaged, or it can vibrate loose and back out completely, causing loss of parts and a possible catastrophic failure. An overtightened fastener can strip the threads on the fastener or the item being screwed into, and it can stretch to the point of being weakened, even to the point of failure. Proper tightening is important...and it is a bit of an art. It takes the right tools, used properly, and the proper fasteners and technique. There is certainly a little wiggle room, but a rookie needs to be aware of the possible consequences of straying too far in either direction.
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Very Active Member
Rewaco RF-1 GT
Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
10.57 gallons
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
The only time I've ever broke a bolt is when I used a torque wrench.
I do use them on things like head bolts but other than that I go by feel. I would not use a torque wrench on oil filter cap bolts, these have an o-ring so just get it tight by hand. IMHO
agree, x3plus
Last edited by Campverdefela; 11-27-2012 at 11:29 AM.
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