NMN Bar Riser Review

[mike3069]

A big thumbs up on this mod.

I just got back from my test ride of this newest goodie fron No Magic Neon.

First, I paid full price, got no special discounts and have no other previous experience with NMN.

Second, this is by far the most impressive mod I have made yet on my bike. After only a few miles I realized that the new position gave my me an amazing increase in confidence in the handeling of the Spyder. The increased leverage available makes manuvering the Spyder MUCH easier in any situation. Now, when force is applied to the handlebars, it all goes into manuvering and none is used to hold yourself in position. Under hard braking, when I used to feel that I was being thrown over the handlebars, the force is now transfered thru my arms directly forward and I am able to easily stay in riding position, even in full panic braking mode. In corners, the ability to transfer my body weight without having to hold myself in position, gives a new level of confidence that effectivly increases the handeling performance of the Spyder by serveral notches. The improved riding position will be a very good thing on the next long ride. I can allready notice that there is less strain on both my lower back and shoulders.

The install itself rates about a 4 in difficulty. Not real complicated, good instructions, and the parts all went togeather. We had a small issue with the allen bolts on the clamps not wanting to tighten easilly. This was pointed out to Evan in a post install phone call and he thanked me and said his next call would be to the machinest to investgate what might need to be done.

Overall this mod gets a solid 10 from me in performance and would also in fit & finish (I really like the End caps for the stock bars) except for the bolt issue, and Evan and his NMN crew match it with there attitude towards their customers!

[jeuchler]

A big thumbs up on this mod.

I just got back from my test ride of this newest goodie fron No Magic Neon.

First, I paid full price, got no special discounts and have no other previous experience with NMN.

Second, this is by far the most impressive mod I have made yet on my bike. After only a few miles I realized that the new position gave my me an amazing increase in confidence in the handeling of the Spyder. The increased leverage available makes manuvering the Spyder MUCH easier in any situation. Now, when force is applied to the handlebars, it all goes into manuvering and none is used to hold yourself in position. Under hard braking, when I used to feel that I was being thrown over the handlebars, the force is now transfered thru my arms directly forward and I am able to easily stay in riding position, even in full panic braking mode. In corners, the ability to transfer my body weight without having to hold myself in position, gives a new level of confidence that effectivly increases the handeling performance of the Spyder by serveral notches. The improved riding position will be a very good thing on the next long ride. I can allready notice that there is less strain on both my lower back and shoulders.

The install itself rates about a 4 in difficulty. Not real complicated, good instructions, and the parts all went togeather. We had a small issue with the allen bolts on the clamps not wanting to tighten easilly. This was pointed out to Evan in a post install phone call and he thanked me and said his next call would be to the machinest to investgate what might need to be done.

Overall this mod gets a solid 10 from me in performance and would also in fit & finish (I really like the End caps for the stock bars) except for the bolt issue, and Evan and his NMN crew match it with there attitude towards their customers!

Thanks alot for the detailed review, Mike!

(Of course, you are torturing those of us who are still waiting for the UPS man to drive up with our set...)

[pzim]

Mike,

Could you fill us in on how long your install was? Just trying to get an idea ahead of time Thanks and enjoy

PZIM

[TonyMac]

Mike,

Could you fill us in on how long your install was? Just trying to get an idea ahead of time Thanks and enjoy

PZIM

Yes, any notes would be appreciated. I'll print Lamonster's instructions before going out to do the install. Get to put the Kewl Metal mirror extensions on too so it will be a good mod weekend (if UPS comes)

[Dyno824]

What size did you get? Ordered 4 but changed to 3. And by the way did you have to take that cover off the one that says Spyder with the hidden bolts under side and would you confirm the size of those bolt heads and anything else you can add to make the job easier for use who are waiting for the ups man.Thanks

[jeuchler]

A big thumbs up on this mod...

The install itself rates about a 4 in difficulty. Not real complicated, good instructions, and the parts all went together. We had a small issue with the allen bolts on the clamps not wanting to tighten easily. This was pointed out to Evan in a post install phone call and he thanked me and said his next call would be to the machinest to investgate what might need to be done...

I agree with all of mike3069's comments. Also, PZIM, Lamont's instructions are the same photos that are included from NMN. Read 'em over first, of course.

I couldn't wait, so of course I started installing late last night.

If I say it took a few hours, it's only because

1. I really took my time.

2. I just could not believe how long it took me to get the left grip off. If I just razored them off, that would've really sped things up, but I didn't have a spare set to replace them. They must have used a half pound of adhesive on mine, as evidenced by the residue left on the bar when I finally did remove it! Yes, I used the long flat screwdriver and Windex method--I don't think an air compressor would've sped things up--also I was trying to work quietly as it was very late.

3. Left side clamp bolts seemed to tighten up OK, but I wasted time a) not removing body panels to start with (I ended up only removing the top Y panel and the black plastic one at the top of the trunk, and moving the black rubber boot out of the way), b) forgetting to run the reverse cable through the hole on the left riser, so I ended up re-doing that one, and c) fighting with tightening the right side bolts, removing them, reapplying LocTite, trying again, and again...and again. Then I considered re-drilling and re-tapping the hole. So, in my fatigued state I finally just sawed four threads off each of the RH two bolts.

Each step was punctuated with me stepping back, staring, and wondering what I'm doing wrong. This factors in additional time, of course.

It seemed as it I had them all biting well and tight, and the cables are all slack enough when turning lock to lock, but I may go back and rotate the clutch line just for appearance sake.

It was 2 a.m. when I finished (which is why I didn't call Ev for advice) adjusting and putting panels back and tools away, so I didn't want to crank it up to try (Micron can, in-house garage under the bedroom, lovely bride had a rough 60 hour workweek were good enough reasons!)

Once the crows cawing and cows mooing start waking everybody around here, I'll try them out.

To be continued...

[hevnbound]

[jeuchler]

Hevnbound

You've seen Ev's and Lamont's nice pics and video, but once I'm done with my coffee, I'll snap a cel phone pic or 2, OK?

Oh, yeah, Dyno, these are 3" risers, I don't have the BRP 1"riser, I'm 6'2", if that matters.

[jeuchler]

OK, like I said, Ev and Lamont have better pics...

Here's why I may move the clutch line. It's not binding at all, it just looks strange curved over the bar panel.



That's just my neoprene sunglasses holder hanging on the right.



This shows the nice endcap for the cut stock bar opening.



I didn't put the caps over the large bolt heads yet (they have to be siliconed in place) until I see if the bolts are tight enough.



Time for another coffee and a test ride.

[Lamonster]

You can crack the fitting on this line and rotate it without bleeding your clutch.

[jeuchler]

You can crack the fitting on this line and rotate it without bleeding your clutch.

Thanks, Lamont, that's what I had hoped.

I like it when I can get away with the easy way!

.............

Edit: I just rotated the clutch fitting in front of the silver panel in about 30 seconds without bleeding--neither me nor the clutch!

Thanks Lamont.

[ataDude]

...
2. I just could not believe how long it took me to get the left grip off. If I just razored them off, that would've really sped things up, but I didn't have a spare set to replace them. They must have used a half pound of adhesive on mine, as evidenced by the residue left on the bar when I finally did remove it! Yes, I used the long flat screwdriver and Windex method--I don't think an air compressor would've sped things up--also I was trying to work quietly as it was very late....

Try WD-40 in there... it works as a solvent.

.

[jeuchler]

Try WD-40 in there... it works as a solvent.

.

ataDude

Where were you and your can of WD-40 at 1:00 this morning?

OK, OK--help the next guy...

[ataDude]

ataDude

Where were you and your can of WD-40 at 1:00 this morning?

OK, OK--help the next guy...

BAHAWAAAAA. At least one of "us" was sound asleep.

I'm not too sure about what the WD-40 was doing at that time. It has to sleep in the garage after it leaked onto the carpet one time.

[Magic Man]

We have contacted the hardware company and found the solution as to why the hardware is such a tight fit into the lower riser caps.

Seems Allen head bolts come in two styles. One has a smooth shoulder and one has ridges on the shoulder to help you grip it to start it in the hole.

The measurements we took for the sample Allen bolts were of the smooth shoulder design. The supplier thinking it was helping sent us the ridged design. It is the few thousandths of an inch larger diameter that this design has that is what makes it fit so snug into the lower half moon clamp.

The ridges on the shoulder area can be removed very easily with a sander without compromising the bolt strength or weatherproof design as it is 100% stainless steel.

Future risers will have this area opened up to allow for ether style bolt to be used so it will not be a problem to use ether style hardware in the future.

MM

[Lamonster]

Just when you think you have all the little issues figured out you run into stuff like this. I'm sure it's not a big deal but you always hope that it is perfect comming out of the gate.

We have contacted the hardware company and found the solution as to why the hardware is such a tight fit into the lower riser caps.

Seems Allen head bolts come in two styles. One has a smooth shoulder and one has ridges on the shoulder to help you grip it to start it on the hole.

The measurements we took for the sample Allen bolts wee of the smooth shoulder design. The supplier thinking it was helping sent us the ridged design. It is the few thousandths of an inch larger diameter that this design has that is what makes it fit so snug into the lower half moon clamp.

The ridges on the shoulder area can be removed very easily with a sander without compromising the bolt strength or weatherproof design as it is 100% stainless steel.

Future risers will have this area opened up to allow for ether style bolt to be used so it will not be a problem to use ether style hardware in the future.

MM

[Magic Man]

We have found a very easy way to remove the ridges on the allen bolts head. One is to put the allen bolt in a drill and spin the head against some sand paper until the ridges are gone, or to do the same thing against a belt sander.

Althought the belt sander is faster, both work well and really take no time at all to do as the stainless sands well.

MM

[Jake007]

Just ordered 4 inch risers, just wondering what the guys who have them like best.. Does a 4 inch riser cause too many issues? thanks...

[Lamonster]

Just ordered 4 inch risers, just wondering what the guys who have them like best.. Does a 4 inch riser cause too many issues? thanks...

I have the 4" risers and after 7000+ miles I had no issues.

[Jake007]

Thanks Lamonster,
Have the 4" risers coming next week and have heated Corbin seat waiting to be put on Spyder. Thanks again for the info Lamonster, this is an awsome site can't thankyou enough.... will be looking for a windshield next... Jake007

[Tonga]

Sounds Great !! Can the riser be installed with BRP's 1 inch risor already on or do you have to put the OEM lower one back on?? I have seen them on another site and they look great !!

[Lamonster]

Sounds Great !! Can the riser be installed with BRP's 1 inch risor already on or do you have to put the OEM lower one back on?? I have seen them on another site and they look great !!

You need the 3" riser.