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 HELP!!! Bolt Broke!!!
Alright, so I was trying to save some money by doing my own oil change. Everything was good until a bolt snapped on the engine oil filter cover. Barely enough to get ahold of, let alone twist it out. I dont even know if an extractor will work because of the small size. Can anyone help me out, or am I going to have to sell a kidney to get this repaired by the dealership. Im really getting down on myself, especially since I was going down to suprise my wife tomorrow any help is much appreciated!!!
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You could try a small chisel and tap on what's left carefully in a counter clockwise direction. This should start it out if enough material is left on the bold. It shouldn't have any pressure on it now.
Next step if you can't get that to work is to center punch the bolt in the dead center. That may take some prep work like grinding it square first to get the punch lined up.
Don't drill it for an extractor as they almost always break off. Get a 1/16" left handed drill bit and use a reversible drill to start drilling it. It may actually unscrewed as you drill.
All bets are off if it isn't centered! Of you do have it centered then you can step up on size until you can use a small screw driver to turn the hollow screw out.
That is what I would do in those steps.
Another thought is to get a small grinder and cut a slot across the end sticking out and then try a screwdriver on the new slot.
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 Originally Posted by SPYDERPOPS
You could try a small chisel and tap on what's left carefully in a counter clockwise direction. This should start it out if enough material is left on the bold. It shouldn't have any pressure on it now.
Next step if you can't get that to work is to center punch the bolt in the dead center. That may take some prep work like grinding it square first to get the punch lined up.
Don't drill it for an extractor as they almost always break off. Get a 1/16" left handed drill bit and use a reversible drill to start drilling it. It may actually unscrewed as you drill.
All bets are off if it isn't centered! Of you do have it centered then you can step up on size until you can use a small screw driver to turn the hollow screw out.
That is what I would do in those steps.
Another thought is to get a small grinder and cut a slot across the end sticking out and then try a screwdriver on the new slot.
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?jkizmv
Here's a man that's been down the broken bolt road a few times. No doubt! The slow deliberate methodical approach works almost every time.
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Looks like Im taking it to the dealership. I couldnt get it straight to center it without removing some stuff so Im screwed. Looks Im not saving money After all. Dealer said it would take atleast an hour of labor. The positive side, I guess, is that I wont need parts. The only question is why would BRP put such weak bolts on something that is changed regularly? Im so aggravated. Im going to get some stronger bolts for it on my next oil change.
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Broken Bolt
Are you using a torque wrench when you install the filter bolts? It is very rare that a bolt will brake when applying the proper torque. The torque for the Filter Bolts is 97 in. lbs or 11 nm. That is not a lot of torque. (8 ft. lbs.)
Use to be, back in the day when everything was made of steel etc. A little torque was good and more was great. Not so today with all the soft metals being used in these engines. A torque wrench is a must.
Lots of good advice in earlier posts about getting the broken bolt out. Hope all of this helps.
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Very Active Member
If the dealer did your last oil change and screwed it that tight, I think it's his to correct. There is NO reason for the bolt to snap if properly torqued.
Did you remove the other bolt?
Last edited by Dudley; 05-19-2012 at 11:48 AM.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Originally Posted by Dudley
If the dealer did your last oil change and screwed it that tight, I think it's his to correct. There is NO reason for the bolt to snap if properly torqued.
Did you remove the other bolt?
That's a valid point if it broke on the way out. 
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Thought. You can buy an angle drill at Home Depot for about what it will cost you to have the dealer do the fix. Perhaps less if it takes longer than 1 hr. If you do? Remember to center punch before you start drilling and use the smallest bit realistically possible to start with - working up in size from there. Slow - and methodical.
This is how a guy/gal ends up with so many tools!!!!!! 
Last edited by Jeriatric; 05-19-2012 at 12:17 PM.
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Very Active Member
If any of the stud is sticking out I would use a Dremel cut off tool to cut a slot in what's left of the bolt. Then see if a screwdriver can be used to back out the bolt.
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Hmm.........assuming the "oil filter" cover is removed and out of the way there should be no torque on the bolt? Memory serves me correct they use a lock washer on this bolt so no thread lock should be on it? Having said all that it should back out of there very easily?
Unless you were reinstalling it and got it cross threaded and this is what caused the bolt to snap? If thats the case you might be in trouble? If you are settled on taking it to the dealer best to do nothing and let them at least have "first" crack at it.
Good luck regardless that sucks!
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Remove the other bolt... And the snapped one will screw right out. Happened to me.
Now... If you cross threaded... you are out of luck.
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Originally Posted by WackyDan
Remove the other bolt... And the snapped one will screw right out. Happened to me.
Now... If you cross threaded... you are out of luck.
Was replacing them after the change. Ironically, it was the last bolt to finish tightening. It wasnt even all the way in and I was barely applying pressure. It was almost flush to the out let so Im screwed. Ive tried all of the above. Heres hoping the dealership doesnt cost me an arm and a leg. The guy said it would take ATLEAST an hour. Taking it up there Monday stripped down so they dont charge me an extra for just taking panels off. Im still changing my oil from now on, I believe I just got a bad bolt.
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BTW, does anyone have an idea of how long it will usually take a dealership to get a broken bolt out? Do they usually have access to better tools? Just dont want to go in and them say it took them 6hrs of labor for 1 bolt and it really took 2. That may not happen, just wanted a realistic perspective from some of our mechanics here.
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Originally Posted by ArmySpyder
BTW, does anyone have an idea of how long it will usually take a dealership to get a broken bolt out? Do they usually have access to better tools? Just dont want to go in and them say it took them 6hrs of labor for 1 bolt and it really took 2. That may not happen, just wanted a realistic perspective from some of our mechanics here.
Just my 2c but, it's not something you MUST take to a dealer to resolve. Any mechanic worth his salt has been through it often enough that he could handle it, and he would most likely not charge you an arm and two legs. That is, if you know or have a friend who would recommend someone. Just a thought.
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Originally Posted by ArmySpyder
Was replacing them after the change. Ironically, it was the last bolt to finish tightening. It wasnt even all the way in and I was barely applying pressure. It was almost flush to the out let so Im screwed. Ive tried all of the above. Heres hoping the dealership doesnt cost me an arm and a leg. The guy said it would take ATLEAST an hour. Taking it up there Monday stripped down so they dont charge me an extra for just taking panels off. Im still changing my oil from now on, I believe I just got a bad bolt.
What tool were you using while tightening ? I have done several oil changes now and I use a craftsman 3/8 drive and craftsman hex attachments. No torque wrench. No issues, no leaks.
I wonder if some of these bolts are inherently weak or we are simply muscling them like we would a car.
I was even told in confidence that several dealers tighten, start the bike, and tighten more if a leak is detected.
I hate to see people fault themselves and continue to throw money away.
Just my .02
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These are tiny bolts...very easy to overtorque and damage or snap. Bolts don't break for "no reason", or because they are "bad". They break because they are tightened too much, corrode in place, are not tightened evenly, were cross-treaded, bottomed out, etc. Removing the broken bolt is one thing, but figuring out why it broke is more important, to prevent it from happening again.
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Active Member
A Decent Torque wrench is a good investment
A good torque wrench is a good investment and will repay the cost in the long term by saving money, sweat, tears and beers over broken bolts. I have never broken a bolt when using a torque wrench correctly set. Sure have broken a lot using the 'arm strong' method. All of the extraction methods work with a healthy dose of patience. Good luck.
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GOOD ADVICE!!
Originally Posted by dancogan
If any of the stud is sticking out I would use a Dremel cut off tool to cut a slot in what's left of the bolt. Then see if a screwdriver can be used to back out the bolt.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
These are tiny bolts...very easy to overtorque and damage or snap. Bolts don't break for "no reason", or because they are "bad". They break because they are tightened too much, corrode in place, are not tightened evenly, were cross-treaded, bottomed out, etc. Removing the broken bolt is one thing, but figuring out why it broke is more important, to prevent it from happening again.
Mike
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Does anyone have an idea of what they think it will cost me?
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Army, what's the prognosis?
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Active Member
if you remove the other bolt remove the cover and filter use the good bolt to find a nut that fits it, thread the nut on to the broken stub just a turn or so, this will provide a guide for the reverse drill you will buy at sears. this drill should have a 1/4 drive hex, now put a ten inch extension and a 1/4 drive bit in your reversible drill, the rest should be obvious go slow, the bolts hold the cover on and provide compression for the o ring, do not forget to clean the strainer, do not over tighten the hose clamp, the hose is expensive.
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Originally Posted by 3Willie
A good torque wrench is a good investment and will repay the cost in the long term by saving money, sweat, tears and beers over broken bolts. I have never broken a bolt when using a torque wrench correctly set. Sure have broken a lot using the 'arm strong' method. All of the extraction methods work with a healthy dose of patience. Good luck.
The oil filer cap bolts only require 7-8 pounds to tighten. THe drain plugs are 15. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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Originally Posted by WackyDan
The oil filer cap bolts only require 7-8 pounds to tighten. THe drain plugs are 15. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
The screws require 97 lbf-in which translates to 8 lbf-ft.
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. Anyone else think this is a little steep? I know nothing is impossible, but can someone please ease my mind a bit
