Headlight Adjustment ????

[arntufun]

Has anyone figured out away to adjust the headlights from a closer distance than 33 feet ???

The manual says park your Spyder 33 feet away from the wall and draw two lines
one at 27 something
one at 24 something
put a 200 lb rider on it
and adjust your beam between them

Any math majors out there that can get me within 10 feet of a wall ???


I'm hate to drive at night because everyone is always flashing there high beams at me and pulling over when I'm behind them. I really do not want to be arrested for a woman accusing me of trying to pull her over like in the other thread.

[Bob Denman]

Forget the wall... I think I see your problem, and it's the same as mine...
Where are you gonna get a 200lb rider from? In my case I'd have to lose at least one arm for sure!
Give it the "WAG"
"Wild Guess" method...

[NancysToy]

I just use the by-guess-and-by-gosh method. Pull up on a level surface where it is convenient to a wall, garage door, or other flat surface. The farther away the better but the wall can be ten feet or even closer. Mark where the headlights are now (I use a piece of tape), then adjust down from the mark a bit...maybe 1"-3". Go out and try it. If you need more, do it again. If you measure how far away you are, and how far you moved from the mark, you can get pretty close to what you want in a try or two. No science...the math makes my head hurt!

[Bob Denman]

[QUOTE=NancysToy;442684]I just use the by-guess-and-by-gosh method. QUOTE]
That sounds suspiciously like the WAG... only you can talk about it in polite company too!

[NancysToy]

[QUOTE=Bob Denman;442687]

I just use the by-guess-and-by-gosh method. QUOTE]
That sounds suspiciously like the WAG... only you can talk about it in polite company too!

No, a WAG would be done without shining the lights on the wall.

[pro10is]

No math is needed, the relative (thanks Scotty) beam height won't change if you're closer or further on a level surface. BRP recommends 33 feet because that is the focal length where each beam's reflection on the wall should be in sharp focus which will make it easier to determine where the center point is. At a closer distance the reflection won't be as sharp, but if you're careful you should still be able to determine where the center point is. Then you can raise it higher or lower from the current setting.

[NancysToy]

No math is needed, the beam height won't change if you're closer or further on a level surface. BRP recommends 33 feet because that is the focal length where each beam's reflection on the wall should be in sharp focus which will make it easier to determine where the center point is. At a closer distance the reflection won't be as sharp, but if you're careful you should still be able to determine where the center point is.

????? That will only happen if the lenses are aimed pefectly parallel to the ground. From what I have seen, that is seldom the case, particularly with an RT, where the rear suspension setting changes the angle of the mnachine.

[Bob Denman]

BRP recommends 33 feet because that is the focal length where each beam's reflection on the wall should be in sharp focus which will make it easier to determine where the center point is. At a closer distance the reflection won't be as sharp, but if you're careful you should still be able to determine where the center point is.

But if you've got eyes like mine; 33 feet or just 3 feet; it's gonna be blurry!

[arntufun]

Thank guys. So the best way to do it is............. wingin it.

[pro10is]

????? That will only happen if the lenses are aimed pefectly parallel to the ground. From what I have seen, that is seldom the case, particularly with an RT, where the rear suspension setting changes the angle of the mnachine.

Sorry, let me make that much clearer. The -relative- height won't change. He wanted a way to set the beam height closer than 33'. If he wants to raise or lower the height of the beams he does not have to do it at 33 feet as BRP says, although at that distance it will give a sharper focus. You can do it at a closer distance and set the height higher or lower -relative- to the current height.

I'll edit my original post to include the word I left out. Thanks for pointing that out.

[billybovine]

The center hieght of my 09 GS headlights is 32 inches with my 185 lbs on it. I assume yours will be the same or similar. The upper line is a 4.5 inch drop at 33 feet it should be 1.5 inch at 11 feet. The lower line is a 8 inch drop at 33 feet, it should be a 2.6 inch drop at 11 feet. If I have made some wrong assumptions I am sure someone will point it out.

[Firefly]

I wouldn't 'wing it'. Do it by the book. What's so hard about pulling your Spyder back 33 feet from your garage door, or a school wall, etc. in the dark... measuring things and adjusting them?

Granted I'm fortunate in that I can do mine while inside... but if I couldn't -- my garage door at home would have been next best thing.

Also make sure and use a GOOD screwdriver when making the adjustments.... don't want to strip the screws out or bust something.

Go in small increments... like 1/2 turns....

Good luck!

[NancysToy]

I wouldn't 'wing it'. Do it by the book. What's so hard about pulling your Spyder back 33 feet from your garage door, or a school wall, etc. in the dark... measuring things and adjusting them?

Granted I'm fortunate in that I can do mine while inside... but if I couldn't -- my garage door at home would have been next best thing.

Also make sure and use a GOOD screwdriver when making the adjustments.... don't want to strip the screws out or bust something.

Go in small increments... like 1/2 turns....

Good luck!

The problem for many of us is in having a flat, level surface over that 33 feet (plus the length of the Spyder). I don't even have that in my pole barn. Without a flat, level surface, you would need a transit to mark your target. Measuring from the ground won't work.

[Pennyrick]

Thank guys. So the best way to do it is............. wingin it.

I wouldn't wing it either. Finding level ground 33 feet or more from a solid wall may be tough but most supermarkets have a flat wall around back or at the sides, where you could place marks.

PS: Ellen is better but can we have Holly back on your sig?

[Radthorne]

PS: Ellen is better but can we have Holly back on your sig?

Please?

[arntufun]

The problem for many of us is in having a flat, level surface over that 33 feet (plus the length of the Spyder). I don't even have that in my pole barn. Without a flat, level surface, you would need a transit to mark your target. Measuring from the ground won't work.

Excactly !!!! I'm having trouble finding a flat level surface and a wall with 33 feet of space. My property won't do it, because my driveway is tapered so it wicks water away from my garage.

I'm just going to wait until I go camping in two weeks and use the side of my Camper as a wall at the campground. The shiney white side should be perfect and use masking tape for my lines. I also think I'm going to set them lower than what BRP calls for.

[NancysToy]

Excactly !!!! I'm having trouble finding a flat level surface and a wall with 33 feet of space. My property won't do it, because my driveway is tapered so it wicks water away from my garage.

I'm just going to wait until I go camping in two weeks and use the side of my Camper as a wall at the campground. The shiney white side should be perfect and use masking tape for my lines. I also think I'm going to set them lower than what BRP calls for.

Another tip is to be sure to load the seat when adjusting...or compensate by adjusting lower. Have Holly sit in the passenger seat when you do yours and I suspect you will be happier with the results. Some dealers throw a couple of sandbags on the seat for this purpose.

[SpydeeBite2]

When mine needed adjustment a friend who has a spyder with correctly adjusted lights and I met at dunkin dounuts at night shined the lights on the wall from parking spaces side by side and I adjusted mine as close to his as I could. Worked pretty well. Never had anyone flash their highs at me or pull over after the adjustment.

[Arr MiHardies]

Tell me the height from the ground the headlights are and I'll do the math. Just basic trigonometry people.

[mowin]

Tell me the height from the ground the headlights are and I'll do the math. Just basic trigonometry people.

And there lies the problem...theres no such thing as simple trigonomerty...heck I cant even spell it..

[pro10is]

Ok, I'll take a stinkin' shot at this. No guarantees. If I get it wrong blame it on too many late night parties before trig class.

Assumptions:
Spyder GS/RS/RS-S Headlight Height: 32.375" on average w/200 lb driver. (This could change considerably with a heavier/lighter driver, cargo load, tire pressure, performance shocks, etc.)
BRP Specs for Headlight Adjustment: Adjust for a low beam height of 24.0" to 27.5" (25.75" halfway point) at 33' with a 200 lb driver.

If the Headlight Height is 32.375" and we assume if the low beams were adjusted to shine on the wall at this height at 33' (or any realistic distance), they could considered to be parallel. Yes I know there are other factors involved, but this is just a reference point for a parallel beam adjustment which we'll call 0°. BRP calls for the proper height adjustment to be 25.75" at 33'. So the delta is: 32.375" (parallel height) minus 25.75" (BRP Adjustment Height) for a difference of 6.625". Using right angle trig where side "a" is 6.625" and side "b" is 33' (or 396"), angle "A" or the head light adjustment angle can then be calculated out to be 0.96°. So BRP is effectively saying that the low beams should be adjusted downward by only about 1° from parallel.

Now that we know the adjustment angle we can use it to interpolate the low beam adjustment height for other distances. (I'll spare you the math):

Angle	Distance	Low Beam Height Adjustment
0.96°	33'	24.0" - 27.5"
0.96°	30'	24.6" - 28.1"
0.96°	25'	25.6" - 29.1"
0.96°	20'	26.6" - 30.1"
0.96°	15'	27.6" - 31.1"
0.96°	10'	28.6" - 32.1"

The closer you try to adjust it the harder it will be. The beam center point will be harder to determine and the height will be trickier to set. I wouldn't try it any closer than 20'.

This is just an exercise in math and other factors can change these numbers so use at your own risk, but this should at least get you in the ball park. I still prefer adjusting the desired height relative to the current position and then testing it out on a long, straight stretch of road at night. That's how I adjust mine.

[Bob Denman]

That was very informative... I think!
This really is a serious question, and I've been probably guiltier than most in making a joke out of it; mostly because I've never played well with Mathematics...
But I think that you've got it nailed down!
So Randy...Give us back Holly or we'll boot you out of the Spyderlover's Hall of Fame!

[bluestratos]

When I installed my HIDs I marked the garage door (inside) off of resonably level slab. When I was done with the install I set the lights to that hieght but to be sure I went out that night into a church parking lot and set them up according to the book. It showed I was way to high so I reset and went for a ride. The lights were so low the road ahead was way too dark. I went home and reset them to the taped marks on the garage door. This is where I have left them since and no cars are flashing so I bet I am close. I want to take our car out and test in real time to see if I can move up a smidge or not. Low beam is not bad but high beam still seems to be off. I am getting some PIAs next week from the same vender I bough the HIDs from so I hope I can use these to fill in abit.

[pro10is]

When I installed my HIDs I marked the garage door (inside) off of reasonably level slab. When I was done with the install I set the lights to that height but to be sure I went out that night into a church parking lot and set them up according to the book. It showed I was way to high so I reset and went for a ride. The lights were so low the road ahead was way too dark. I went home and reset them to the taped marks on the garage door. This is where I have left them since and no cars are flashing so I bet I am close. I want to take our car out and test in real time to see if I can move up a smidge or not. Low beam is not bad but high beam still seems to be off. I am getting some PIAs next week from the same vender I bough the HIDs from so I hope I can use these to fill in abit.

The problem with aftermarket HID bulb replacements is that the OEM halogen bulb reflectors were not designed for them and the focal point may change. The light may scatter. This is precisely why BRP's optional HID kit includes new reflectors specifically focused for the HID bulbs they used and is thus so expensive. It's also why aftermarket HID replacement bulbs are not DOT approved. The better aftermarket HID bulb manufacturers try to laser adjust the light source in an attempt to match the original halogen bulb as close as possible but that's not easy or precise. So adjusting the height for non-BRP HID's is going to be tricky. Still, with some luck, you can get very good results.

[zlkenz]

a quick but fairly accurate way with only ten feet level ground infront of the spyder is to measure the height from the ground to the centreof the low beam lights and mark it on the wall then mark two inches below that as your target top edge of your low beam line. the spyders have anice sharpcut off line so an accurate way to check when you are sitting on it.