-
new slightly frustrated RT rider
Hi
After reading this forum for several years ( and what a good forum this is !!), I picked up my 2012 RT(W) LTD two days ago. Hired a flat bed trailer, drove over 200 miles to the nearest dealer and dragged the lot back home. Was test driven by the dealer before I picked it up and all seemed OK.
At home, me and the 2CO went for a brief trip. After 20 miles CHECK DPS message came on, folllowed by CHECK ENGINE. Stopped at the road side, waited for some time, restarted, and problem persisted
Drove back home, contacted the dealer. This morning problem still there. Now have to hire a trailer again, drive all the way to the dealer and have it checked out....not a good start of a promising relationship. I am sure things can only get better
Cheers from sunny Australia
-
Very Active Member
Sorry to here that. This time when they tell you its ready, drive it around the dealership area to MAKE SURE its ok...Hang in there, its worth it.
Rewaco RF-1 GT
Inline 4 cylinder Ford Zetec with multi-port fuel inject, 140 HP
0-60mph: 5.8 seconds
5 speed sync manual with reverse, mechanical dry clutch.
Front suspension: Trapezoidal fork with center spring
Rear suspension: Independent with Bilstein gas shock absorbers
Brake System: Grimeca calipers, linked ventilated discs, with booster
10.57 gallons
-
Blazing Member
I would give the battery connections and relays a look make sure everything is tight and seated. Also your battery may not have been fully charged ! The DPS is a huge draw on the battery .
-
SpyderLovers Founder
Not sure how long it had been sitting before you picked it up but I would throw it on a 2 amp charger first over night and then check for codes.
-
MOgang Member & Monster Member
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Not sure how long it had been sitting before you picked it up but I would throw it on a 2 amp charger first over night and then check for codes.
Good advice here. An may save you the cost of renting a trailer.
-
Very Active Member
Sorry to hear of your problems. Bad that it is 200 miles to get back to the dealer. Your problems may be related to low charge on the battery as mentioned above. Try the charge up before making a trip to the dealer.
If you have to go back to the dealer though, recommend taking it on a 30 to 50 mile test drive while still there, if the problem still persits, you are still in the dealers area.
-
Originally Posted by akspyderman
Sorry to hear of your problems. Bad that it is 200 miles to get back to the dealer. Your problems may be related to low charge on the battery as mentioned above. Try the charge up before making a trip to the dealer.
If you have to go back to the dealer though, recommend taking it on a 30 to 50 mile test drive while still there, if the problem still persits, you are still in the dealers area.
Thanks guys for the warm welcome and advice. I started the engine up a couple of times and message "check engine" kept coming up. I ignored the message and went for a ride. Just at leaving the driveway, the message went into cyberspace...gone...went for a drive around the country roads, all OK, no more "check engine" lightBetter check the battery terminals tomorrow...cheers, jos
-
-
Very Active Member
..welcome ..
if you would be in Austria.. the DSP warning comes if its under -10° C !! tested it yesterday
chris
Outlander fairing - Fox-shock - BajaRon Swaybar - Hankook tire/ back - 165/50 Imperial tires front & longer front shocks - GIVI Topase - Shad sidecases -heated grips - new seats
-
It sounds like the check engine light could have been due to a dirty sensor. These generally clear themselves after a little operation, and do not recur. If it shows up frequently, I'd see your dealer, but otherwise just put on some miles and ride. At the time of service, the dealer can look into the fault history and probably determine the cause. he will likely just clear the codes, if there is no lingering problem.
-
Regardless of the outcome of your problem, get a Battery Tender and plug it into the outlet in your trunk if not riding for a few days. It keeps your battery charged and may save future problems. Good luck. p.s. You will get a limp mode if you ride the brake! I know.
Last edited by Mr. White; 02-10-2012 at 01:18 PM.
-
-
Registered Users
Did you charge the battery with a trickle charger yet? I really think this could be the problem if the battery is low.....Worth giving it a try.
I have this one and it works great and you can get at walmart. I always leave it on the spyder when in the garage!
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...ainer/15167353
Later,
Shawn
** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **
-
Originally Posted by spyder-dude
Did you charge the battery with a trickle charger yet? I really think this could be the problem if the battery is low.....Worth giving it a try.
I have this one and it works great and you can get at walmart. I always leave it on the spyder when in the garage!
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...ainer/15167353
Later,
Shawn
I have four of these for my scoots, riding mower and tractor. Work great. This is a newer model as it has the cigarette attachment to plug in the trunk of the RT. Mine are two amps vs three.
-
Before you rent a trailer I agree with the aforementioned suggestions.Check your battery connections (see manual) and put it on a charger.The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.
-
Good advice here. The DPS is the biggest current draw on the Spyder, other than the starter motor. A low battery condition can certainly cause these problems. Loose relays can, too. In addition, loose battery terminals are common on Spyders at the time of delivery or after service. Some dealers are lax at tightening the battery connections. Loose battery connections inhibit battery charging, and can cause low voltage to the Spyder components. If the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat) is loose (usually a result of someone trying to looosen it to hook something up), it can cause the same thing. Before I would rent a trailer again and tow the Spyder back to the dealer, I would check the connections at the battery and rear frame ground (Do not try to loosen it!), and thoroughly charge the battery. If the problems continue, I would contact the dealer and ask them to come and fetch the Spyder. If they set it up improperly, or sold it in an inoperable condition, they should foot the bill for picking it up and delivering it back to you...after they make ammends.
-
Thank you my friends
I think you are all on the mark, especially:
------The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.---
---------------------
Indeed, the DPS error came up whilst touring at very low revs in town, on both occasions.
And...I have been running the spyder at far too low revs
Sounds like the problem, easy fix!
Thanks again guys, magic!
Jos
-
Originally Posted by jos
Thank you my friends
I think you are all on the mark, especially:
------The Spyder likes high rpm's and you need to stay above 4000 rpms for it to charge the battery.If the battery charge was low and you rode around at lower rpm's it could have compounded your problem.Good luck and keep us posted.---
---------------------
Indeed, the DPS error came up whilst touring at very low revs in town, on both occasions.
And...I have been running the spyder at far too low revs
Sounds like the problem, easy fix!
Thanks again guys, magic!
Jos
Hi Jos and welcome. I keep a battery minder on my RS all the time. I have had the Spyder for 4 years now and just replaced the battery as a matter of course- previous experience has shown that after 3-4 years you are pretty much on borrowed time and I did not want to be stranded. I have on my web site (http://www.spyderryders.net.au ) some info that may assist and one thing, not necessarily associated with your issue is as follows- "Be aware that in some instances after you do an oil change the Spyder will go into "limp home mode". The easy fix is reported just to ride around the block. Usually reving the motor over 3,000 will clear it and all is fine. One unfortunate new owner in the US trailered the Spyder back to the dealer (aparently a new and inexperienced one) where they blamed it on a "non genuine" oil filter and presented them with a huge bill. "
-
Hi
Checked the battery terminals, all OK. Got a charger, charged and after 1/2 hour charger went into maintaining mode, all seems OK. Took the 2CO out again, and when driving in town, CHECK ENGINE !...slow limp mode ride home.
Got trailer, drove to dealer, got the codes out, tech scratched his head, reinstalled software, went for test drive, all seems fine, no clue and back home with spyder on trailer it was
Now...it could be the Big Red was right, old chap! as all CHECK ENGINE and DPS Faults appeared during town riding, not on the freeways and highways maybe.....maybe ...I was riding the brake whilst having some throttle open during town driving start/stops.
Will pay attention to the behaviour of my right foot and the coordination of my right dexterities over the next few days and report back...interesting !
-
I ride with the edge of my shoe just under the the outside edge of the brake pedal. this way the only pressure is up and I always know where the brake pedal is.
-
Registered Users
Originally Posted by jos
Hi
Checked the battery terminals, all OK. Got a charger, charged and after 1/2 hour charger went into maintaining mode, all seems OK. Took the 2CO out again, and when driving in town, CHECK ENGINE !...slow limp mode ride home.
Got trailer, drove to dealer, got the codes out, tech scratched his head, reinstalled software, went for test drive, all seems fine, no clue and back home with spyder on trailer it was
Now...it could be the Big Red was right, old chap! as all CHECK ENGINE and DPS Faults appeared during town riding, not on the freeways and highways maybe.....maybe ...I was riding the brake whilst having some throttle open during town driving start/stops.
Will pay attention to the behaviour of my right foot and the coordination of my right dexterities over the next few days and report back...interesting !
I would put your battery tender on the bike and leave on for overnight.....1/2hr will not do it. I have had battery issues in the past with my 2008 GS and affected starting. After leaving it on for couple of days with the battery tender it fixed it. Just a possible trick for you to try!
** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **
-
Riding the brake can certainly cause limp mode, and has frustrated more riders than just you. The codes should tell a dealer who knows how to interpret what he sees. Pay close attention to that right foot and see if things clear up. It always takes a while to get the feel of a new machine. We'll keep our fingers crossed for you!
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|