Spyder RT 2011 - Fuel Gauge

[clueless]

i use the gauge as a quick look at how much fuel ... like a 1000 ft view of where I am. then I use mileage when I get near the bottom of the fuel guage to know when to gas up. I start looking like others at 125 miles and more seriously (I.E. hit the nearest gas station on Garmin button) at around 150 miles. also to confirm i put as much fuel to be full when filling up. one time the click on the gas pump went off way too early and it reclicked when topping off slowly so I figured i was full like usual... wrong... was low like .5 gals!

but the digital gauge others have said is more accurate then the analog meter, so I am thinking that its the analog meter is not that good when it gets down toward empty.

yeah its only as good as the sending unit and the shape of the tank is strange on the RTs ... but I am trying to get as close to the digital display accuracy as I can with a replacement for the analog gauge ... with a new digital gauge on the side and that way I can keep my fuel and temp gauges...

[Lamonster]

What would be nice is a flow meter instead of a fuel gauge. Then you would know how much fuel was used by flow and not a sending unit.

[eddieshep999]

Just had the Fuel gauge on my 2010 Spyder RT-S replaced with a 2011 gauge

Was stable until I filled up then started to bounce again not as bad, But still off putting


Rather than get another gauge - I have removed both gauges and use the Cluster display Easier on the eye


Have now fitted a Digital Voltmeter and Clock in place of Fuel/Temp gauge

Thanks for the information on this Website, I would never had known the removal of both gauges would give me the same information in the
Cluster display

Thanks

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

[t64507]

I have a 2011 RTS and I disconnected both the analog gauges so they come up on the digital screen. They are more accurate that way. I replaced them with a digital volt meter and digital oil pressure gauge and I am very pleased with the result.

what all do you have to do beside disconect and cap wires?
for this to show up

[eddieshep999]

t64507


Ref - what all do you have to do beside disconect and cap wires?
for this to show up

This previous Thread should answer your question

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ght=fuel+gauge

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK



Spyder – RT-S SES (AUTO 2010 Model)


List of Mods :-
Added Zuno 660 -Garmin kit as supplied on the Spyder RT Limited
Digital Voltmeter and Digital Clock to replace Fuel and Temp gauge – Fuel and Temp now
displayed in Cluster Display
LED Bulbs Reversing Lights,Front position lights
HMT - Brake Light
LED – Running lights
LED - Mud Flap lights
Rear extended Mud Flap
Sport Tall Wide Clear Windshield
Utopia Backrest
S/S Grills both sides matching
Bottom Panel S/S Protection
S/S stronger Funk Lid brackets
S/S Bracket for RBNS Hood for Zumo 660 GPS + TourTech Lockable Mount
Rubber Tank protector on glove box
Grip Puppies
Power Socket in Switch Cluster and at Rear passenger Handrail
Rear Speaker Switch for passenger On/OFF
Upgraded Front Marine Speakers
Bluetooth On board Radio to Sena SMH10 Headsets

[Shaku]

My problem with the fuel level is that I can't really tell with a quick glance how much fuel is showing on the digital display. I can't very well stop and count the little bars. In some light, sure, I can see it, but in other light it's problematic. The yellow bars of the digital temp are even worse. I installed aftermarket full-sweep analog units. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get it to read accurately at the low end. I found out the cluster is sending some sort of signal down the sensor line from the tank. I used the master wiring diagram to isolate which wire going to the cluster was the culprit. I clipped that wire. This fixed the analog accuracy but then the low fuel level light was on all the time. So, I put 100 ohms or so between the cluster input and ground. Now the digital fuel gauge reads about 3/4 full and since it never changes, I ignore it. Low fuel light is off. It doesn't have to be exactly 100 ohms. Anything in that range will do. With the full-sweep analog, it is a bit over a gallon per 1/4 tank. It does stay on full for quite some time after a fill up, but that is common with float sensors. I would like to kill the digital readouts entirely, but I haven't been able to figure out what the cluster expects to see from the OEM gauges to shut down the digital readouts. I also have a pretty accurate "butt sensor." I need to get off around 130 miles or so and stretch.

[Vyperyder]

My personal opinion is that the "problem" may not necessarily be the gauge but the "float/sender and the tank.
From my recollection most bikes don't have gauges for a very good reason...."slosh".
The amount of movement on a bike and the small size of the tank makes a gauge redundant at best.
My Ducati has a warning light which seems to come on after 120km leaving me about 80-90km before empty...nature of the beast, high consumption.
A car has firstly a much larger tank (75liters or more), and I think also baffles to stop "slosh", therefore the gauge is much more stable.
OK a Spyder doesn't lean, but I think that the new design may have a damper of some sort in the "float/sender system to eliminate the "bounce"
Having said that, mine doesn't bounce at all, but I use the mileage system in conjunction with the gauge to decide when to fill.
I tend to refill at around 200km (130m)
cheers all
Pete

[sljanssen]

Hi, my name is Shannon and I'm new to the site but wanted to respond. I bought a 2008 Spyder and had it for 3 years and never had a problem with the fuel guage. I then sold that and purchased a 2011 RTS in April. My fuel guage was fine until December, 2011. Now the darn thing jumps from full to quarter tank. I am of course, getting the run around from the dealer who's saying, "their all like that". No, I beg to differ. For 7 months it worked perfect. What could have changed? Can Am knows they have a problem with these fuel guages and us as customers spent a LOT of money on their product. The least they can do is step up and fix our problems! pheeew, I feel better now!

[fastfraser]

on your Spyders No troubles with my gauges 2011 RTS 12,000 miles.

[ARtraveler]

It does sound like you have a problem with the gauge. If dealer says they are all like that--they are full of

Did you talk with someone in authority--or not?


You might call BRP and talk to Carlo, or check with another dealer. A dealer that does things like yours--if you were talking to management, is not worth the bother. Free advertising is in order if they don't or are not willing to solve your problem.

[NancysToy]

Yes, many of the RTS fuel gauges lose their damping after a while. When they do, some are worse than others. The one on my 2011 started to jump around after about 6,000 miles. This should be covered under warranty. I don't think your dealer is being square with you. I'd contact Carlo or see another dealer.

[bluestratos]

My 2011 did not bounce but I disconnected to try the bar graph as mine was horribly off. No improvment on the graph, which makes sense in my mind. May have to resort to a stick to the measure the thank when in doubt, lol.

[currin20fan]

So far on my 2011 Limited the fuel guage hasn't been jumping around ........... not that I can tell but I use my trip meter and the low fuel light to let me know that I need gas. It works best for me but will keep an eye out on that guage.

[Flight Risk]

I have a 2011 RT-s SE5 that I bought in November 2011. Has 2,000 miles on it. My gas gauge marker looked like a windshield wiper going insane. My brakes also felt rather mushy. Yesterday I had the gauge replaced and the brakes bled. Once all was done, I got on the bike to head for home as it was starting to rain. I had filled up my tank before going to the dealer. As I got on the road to head home, I noticed the gauge "marker" was now at least 1/4" over the Full indicator mark. Really??? I called the dealership when I made it home and they said to ride it and just see how the gauge responds. I ride every weekend with a large group.....seems like I am the only one filling up at each stop. Now I am going to have to "see how it goes"??? Running out of gas on a back road with 15 to 20 other riders just doesn't seem like a fun day for anyone.

Why is it so hard to make an accurate gauge?

Suggestions are most appreciated!

[8 LEGS]

My 2012 RT fuel gage bounces, I have since pulled out the gages and put the cover pieces in.

[Grandpa Spyder]

WOW, I never really pay any attention to it. I don't know if it bounces or not. I only look at it when still, it don't bounce then. Like some others I go by mileage.

[Cyclist922]

I bought my RT in April '11. The gauge has never bounced excessively, but it's never been all that accurate either. Fortunately (or not) my bladder has a much smaller capacity, so frequent stops are required anyway.

[johnnyrocket]

Hi, my name is Shannon and I'm new to the site but wanted to respond. I bought a 2008 Spyder and had it for 3 years and never had a problem with the fuel guage. I then sold that and purchased a 2011 RTS in April. My fuel guage was fine until December, 2011. Now the darn thing jumps from full to quarter tank. I am of course, getting the run around from the dealer who's saying, "their all like that". No, I beg to differ. For 7 months it worked perfect. What could have changed? Can Am knows they have a problem with these fuel guages and us as customers spent a LOT of money on their product. The least they can do is step up and fix our problems! pheeew, I feel better now!

I went to Central Fla. Powersports in Kissimmee for my 24,000 mile service. When I picked up my Spyder I noticed on the service order that they had replaced my fuel gage. I asked the service writer about this and he said they noticed it bouncing on the test ride so they replaced it! I had just been waitng for 130-140 miles to gas up and just using the gage as general reference. I have been having it serviced at another deaaler and they had not done anything about it. Just go to show you all dealers are not the same.

[Arr MiHardies]

Hi, my name is Shannon and I'm new to the site but wanted to respond. I bought a 2008 Spyder and had it for 3 years and never had a problem with the fuel guage. I then sold that and purchased a 2011 RTS in April. My fuel guage was fine until December, 2011. Now the darn thing jumps from full to quarter tank. I am of course, getting the run around from the dealer who's saying, "their all like that". No, I beg to differ. For 7 months it worked perfect. What could have changed? Can Am knows they have a problem with these fuel guages and us as customers spent a LOT of money on their product. The least they can do is step up and fix our problems! pheeew, I feel better now!

There is a service bulletin on this instructing service centers to replace the gauge if the customer complains about it

Mine didnt bouce at first either, but started doing so recently

[scooterexpress]

just took my sypder in to the shop and i had the gauges diconnected i'm lovin it now. no more bouncing gauge and i had more fuel then i thought also. this is a easy fix even for the non mech can do this after i saw it done to mine heres what u got to do take the 4 screws out and pull the wires off of both gauges and whamo there on the computer screen just like that. i left the fueland temp gauge there until i can get a oil temp and a volt meter in place of those. next question is where can i find these 2 gauges? at a reasonable cost dealership wanted 150 for oil gauge and they didnt have a volt can anyone steer me in the right direction for these?..

thanks

[Arr MiHardies]

just took my sypder in to the shop and i had the gauges diconnected i'm lovin it now. no more bouncing gauge and i had more fuel then i thought also. this is a easy fix even for the non mech can do this after i saw it done to mine heres what u got to do take the 4 screws out and pull the wires off of both gauges and whamo there on the computer screen just like that. i left the fueland temp gauge there until i can get a oil temp and a volt meter in place of those. next question is where can i find these 2 gauges? at a reasonable cost dealership wanted 150 for oil gauge and they didnt have a volt can anyone steer me in the right direction for these?..

thanks

just google it. There are tons to choose from.
These guys seem to have a good selection though.
http://prosportgauges.com/

Thinking of getting this one myself http://prosportgauges.com/evo-White-...cal-Volt-.aspx

[scooterexpress]

thanks arr mihardies i just ordered the oil pressure and volt ind cost 145 for both w/shipping cost. love that 2 color option and adj dimmer got them both in the red/blue no i wonder how much the dealership is going to charge me for installing them.

[Littlebadwolf]

If all else fails...carry some additional fuel...not being a smartass, just careful...

[samewok]

MY 2011 gauge did not flux gut I had the dealer disconnect fuel and temp so that they are on the digital display.

[Flight Risk]

Friday of last week I took my 2011 RT-S SE5 in for a gas gauge replacement as it was flipping all over the place and I never knew how much gas was in the tank. I also asked that they bleed the brake lines as they felt "mushy".

10 minutes into my trip home I notice the new gas gauge is over 1/4" over the Full area on gauge #2. I was going to turn around when the rain started really coming down. On Sunday I drove about 35-40 miles and sure enough the gauge hasn't gone down at all. As I pull into my garage, the "check engine" came on! just keeps getting better.

Today, Monday March 12, 2012 I went back to the dealership to have the check engine checked and the gas light icon looked at as it decided to come on and stay on all the way to the dealership. I originally was going to have the Seal Floorboards DLX installed as well as a Two Brothers slip on M-5 Black carbon fiber exhaust installed and also to show them the gas gauge. Of course they didn't have another one in the shop and had to order it. I had to remind them AGAIN to hook the computer up to check the alert for check engine. According to their computer it never came on........uh huh.

After quite the wait, the service tech said I was ready to go...... i am rather despondent at this point but when I turn the key on the bike, some gauges flicker just a bit and with me off the bike the RPM dial swings up to 6,000 RPMs and stuck. The bike was on idle. For the 5th time I call the tech back out. So right now only the center section of gauges are working. OH did I mention the oil light came on and stayed on for a moment or so????

Back to the dealership again tomorrow and my question will be WTF?????