Vibration

[SC92]

I believe what Jornie is talking about are those rods being bolted from the engine bracket to the frame without any isolation? That looks like metal to metal contact to me through the rods if those are Heim joints? Or do those 'rod ends' have rubber bushings in them similar to shock absorbers?....if that's the case, then they would be 'isolated'.

The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

[spyryder]

The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

If the rods DON'T have rubber or neoprene bushings as shown in this pic, then it's METAL to METAL:

[SpyderFun]

Had the Spyder serviced and DPS replaced Friday. Took along a copy of this thread. After calling BRP the dealer adjusted the stabilizer rod and the vibration which I have had from new (some 3000m) has gone. They could see no signs of cantact between the bar and frame.

SteveO

Do you know HOW they adjusted it?
Did they have to make it longer or shorter?

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.

[sinkhole]

Do you know HOW they adjusted it?
Did they have to make it longer or shorter?

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.

Just my take:
From the diagram it appears as if the engine mounts/pivots on the rear bolt (part # 31) and mounts in front to plate #35, which is in turn isolated from the frame on rubber pads.
The stabilizer bars apparently are there only to keep the front mount from moving side to side, and fore and aft. I don't know how much adjustment would be possible because the rear mounting bolt should only allow up and down rotational movement.
It would seem as if once the engine is attached in the rear, and mounted to the front plate, that's where it stays, and the bars are adjusted accordingly. If either bar is close to the frame, the knocking would occur when the rubber cushions under the front engine plate compress and rebound, allowing the bar/s to hit a frame member.

[bruiser]

Yep, that's what mine is doing too. Feel it in the pegs, seat and bars. Talked to my dealer about it several times, standard answer, BRP says that's normal. Guess what I'm going to print out and add to the now growing list for them to check.

[StriperKing]

I just bought an RT-S and have this exact vibration. I am going to look at it and hopefully fix it tomorrow. I very seldom ever take anything to a dealer. They dont care about your bike like you do. I will post if this fixes or does not fix the problem. Great post.

Oh and to clear the air and some of the post have it correct. The dampener rod does not have to have rubber bushings and can be metal to metal as long as the plate they bolt to has a rubber pad for isolation. If no rubber pad then yes there would have to be rubber bushings but we do have the rubber pad. I work for Toyota Motor Mfg. and they use the same consept in areas that require it. A rubber pad is the way to go! More area = more dampening making the pad the better choice over bushings.

[Hobstopper]

Once again kudos to the Spyder community! I took off the front compartment and then the shroud in front of the radiator, shined a flashlight in and low and behold found that the nut on the short linkage rod was against the metal bracket. It had rubbed so much that the bracket had a V shape from the nut. Took a dremel and shaved it down, put everything back together and took for a test ride. It is finally smooth with no more vibration.
Thanks again!

[clueless]

good to know! thanks everyone for sharing their experience. just builds more credence when bringing in to shop for fix.

[SpyderDon]

Well my went to the dealer last week, 3000 mile oil change, dps, gps and vibration elimination. 75 mile trip this time of year inn't real pleasent, even in good ole Tidewater VA. On the ride back I noticed a difference but not total elimination of the vibration. Was told there is a service bullitin covering the vibration problem. At this point I think I would miss it if it went away completely, knowing that it isn't something that will damage the machine I think I can tolerate it.

As for dps, I noticed no change, hopefully that's a good thing.

Thanks to everyone that had input into this thread, seems that BRP got the message.

[sinkhole]

If your lateral stabilizer bar is no longer hitting the frame, then the remaining vibratins are more than likely due to engine/belt harmonics. Seems as if it's the nature of the "beast".

[t64507]

has anyone had this trouble on a 2011 rts

[Fire911]

"My 2011 RSS SE5 feels like it is grinding rocks at 5500 rpm, all gears. There is also a cyclical vibration felt in the left foot peg. What is it? How do I get rid of it. I have about 2500 miles on it and like to ride aggressively."


Posted the above previously and didn't get a good answer....further searching brought me to this thread. I am not very mechanically inclined, so I hope my dealer doesn't give me a hard time when I tell him to look into the solution presented here.

[GeoffCee]

"My 2011 RSS SE5 feels like it is grinding rocks at 5500 rpm, all gears. There is also a cyclical vibration felt in the left foot peg. What is it? How do I get rid of it. I have about 2500 miles on it and like to ride aggressively."


Posted the above previously and didn't get a good answer....further searching brought me to this thread. I am not very mechanically inclined, so I hope my dealer doesn't give me a hard time when I tell him to look into the solution presented here.

One source of vibration has been investigated and its cause and a solution found. Try the info in the following link:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rame+vibration

[Tonga]

I got rid of my vibration with the drive belt tensioner, smoothens my RT right out! The drive belt tension has been reduced in 2010 so with such a long belt the bottom slackens up under load and it seems to want to jump the rear sproket. The tensioner takes care of that. Thanks Capt Jim?

[Campverdefela]

I got rid of my vibration with the drive belt tensioner, smoothens my RT right out! The drive belt tension has been reduced in 2010 so with such a long belt the bottom slackens up under load and it seems to want to jump the rear sproket. The tensioner takes care of that. Thanks Capt Jim?

I agree that this is a viable solution for a lot of people, no problem with mine, but I think a good first step is to check front tire balance first.