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SE5 Issue & Blown Oil Filter
OK, so...........
I was having problems with the SE5 shifting. After getting it back into N manually, I still couldn't get it to start. The RTS had been sitting in my garage for about a week cause of the shifting issue, and the temps never rose above freezing the entire week. After some assistance from my brother & the use of his battery charger, lyfe was once again restored to the Spyder. I was afraid that I was low on oil, & that that was what was causing my shifting issues. But alas, you can't get an accurate oil level while the unit is cold. So, with the assistance of Lamonsters very detailed description along with pictures of the Lamonster Oil Change, I decided to go ahead and do an oil change 1000 miles early & in the picture below is what I found. That goupy, melted look'n stuff is the oil after sitting for a week in freezing temps. At first, I thought the same, that the filter had been put in backwards, but the end cap of the filter was still inside the base of the filter housing. It had blown off!!! WTF !!! Never seen that happen before, have any of you???
Well, after get'n over my initial shock & get'n the filter & oil changed, I sufficiently charged the battery and LYFE was once again restored to the Spyder. Im happy to report, it's been about 3 days now, & she seems to be running fine so far. Even took her out In the snow about midnight last night just to see how she would handle. Boy oh boy, as many of you know, as long as you don't have others around you, that was one fun ryde
I'd appreciate any input on what might have caused this (just a faulty filter?) & what else I should look at to make sure no internal damage was done. I've checked oil levels every day, and all seems fine so far, but in the back of my mind, I'm worried.
Last edited by CyncySpyder; 12-21-2010 at 10:36 AM.
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Senile Member
Something is seriously wrong with that pic. What is that gooey stuff on the filter? Did something melt?
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
OK, so...........
Is that filter in backwards??
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I'd consider a couple of possibilities. First, that does not look like the right oil. A 5W-40 multi-viscosity oil would not get that thick, even at temperature well below zero, Fahrenheit. I supect the wrong oil was used, somehow and somewhere along the way. The higher oil pressure when cold could readily blow the filter and cause the transmission to fail to shift. Contaminated oil could do the same sort of thing...but it usually turns to jelly, quite literally, or getys milky. Your oil exhibits neither problem.
As a second consideration, I don't know if the Spyder has an oil pressure relief valve, but if it does, yours certainly didn't work. I would ask the dealer about this. One other thing...I would probably change the oil and filter again, very soon, to flush all that crud out of your system. Expensive, yes, but not as expensive as a new engine or trans.
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SpyderLovers Founder
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
Thanks for the advice guys. And Lamonster, thanks for taking the time to check another filter out. I'm wondering now if the dealer used the wrong filter?
I only changed the oil & filter this time, but as Scotty suggested, I'll do it again pretty soon.
Lamonster, your write up on the oil change was invaluable, thank you. Might you have something similar showing the SE5 filter change as well? Since both use the same oil, seems logical to change that one out as well, just to make sure, even tho the manual states its not due for another 3500 miles.
Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions
I would say for sure the dealer did not use the OEM filter for a Spyder.
I don't have anything for the SE but it's just one more little filter and you did the hard part already.
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Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
Thanks for the advice guys. And Lamonster, thanks for taking the time to check another filter out. I'm wondering now if the dealer used the wrong filter?
I only changed the oil & filter this time, but as Scotty suggested, I'll do it again pretty soon.
Lamonster, your write up on the oil change was invaluable, thank you. Might you have something similar showing the SE5 filter change as well? Since both use the same oil, seems logical to change that one out as well, just to make sure, even tho the manual states its not due for another 3500 miles.
Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions
mannual says there is no need to change Clutch oil filter as often as the engine one
common sense says, once you changing oil, change also all filters involved in same circuit
when i do mine, i always change both filters and ofcourse washers and rings and i also don't do oil change only every 5000km/3500M but if i ryde more agressively, ussualy 1up, i change oil and whole set more often, let's say every 2000 miles.
.....and i am getting my sets allways from BAJARON and never had a problem
that's my 2c
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I did not pay close attention to the other stuff in the photo at first glance, but this filter appears to be in backwards.
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Originally Posted by DragonLorD
mannual says there is no need to change Clutch oil filter as often as the engine one.
This was revised via a service bulletin. They now call for changing both filters at every change.
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Very Active Member
If you still have the filter can you take a picture of the other end for us?
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Dudley
If you still have the filter can you take a picture of the other end for us?
I would like to see that too. I don't think it was put in backwards, I think it was the wrong filter. I know some of the SkiDoo filters fit but are open on both ends.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
This was revised via a service bulletin. They now call for changing both filters at every change.
...missed that one but just make a perfect sense
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I would like to see that too. I don't think it was put in backwards, I think it was the wrong filter. I know some of the SkiDoo filters fit but are open on both ends.
This one looks like the center cap just blew off. He stated that the end of the filter was still in the housing. But the other end would show us the writing identifying the filter. We hope.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
I did not pay close attention to the other stuff in the photo at first glance, but this filter appears to be in backwards.
If this ends up being the case... Oh my. Did this allow for the oil to even flow or be filtered properly?
Additionally... I would be documenting this right quick if this is the case. Depending on how many miles since the Oil change, very well could spell a reduction in engine/tranny life and that spooks me.
My other concern... Regardless this situation is not good at all. If they used the wrong oil, or filter or even mounted it backwards. How many other Spyders that this dealer worked on may have this issue as well
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SpyderLovers Founder
Just talked with Magic Man and he's says what you're seeing on the end of that filter is the glue that held the cap on, not a blown out cap. If that's the case then there really isn't a problem seeing there is no slop in the filter and the cap simply pulled off the end when he went to change the filter. Not a big deal unless he tries to install the new filter with the old end cap in place.
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Very Active Member
If you look at the end of his filter and the new filter Lamont showed, the Lamont filter is recessed where the cap is and the other filter is not recessed. I vote for wrong filter...but hopefully we can get a pic of the other end. And not being a mechanic, how can glue become a liquid after it is applied and dried to hold something. The drip on the base seems to be oil, and he said he changed the oil without warming it up.
Went back and looked again. The inside of Lamont's filter is dark, the other is not.
Last edited by Dudley; 12-21-2010 at 01:38 PM.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
I'm wondering now if the dealer used the wrong filter?
Please tell me you used the NKY dealer and not the Ohio dealer. When it warms up and the snow melts, I'm due for 1st service.
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The glue that held the end cap on came undone nothing more than that.
I have seen this several times in the Sea-Doo watercraft I have owned over the years and in the watercraft forums too.
While the outer filter housing is in place it holds the end cap on the filter. Then when the filter housing is undone this cap sticks up inside the housing end cover because it was no longer glued on tight.
The glue's bond to the smooth metal filter end cap sometimes comes undone due to operation, heat, oil, and other things it comes into contact with.
As long as the filter cover was bolted down it pushed on the end cap and held it in place so the filter worked as normal.
Once he loosened the bolts and removed the filter housing cover is then when it pulled off the paper filter element, leaving it as it looks now.
New filter, clean oil and he'll be as good as new.
MM
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Pic of Filter. Looks to be correct
Originally Posted by Dudley
If you still have the filter can you take a picture of the other end for us?
As far as I can tell, it looks like the correct filter to me. Its a OEM Rotax Filter.
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The correct Spyder oil filter is not open at both ends. We have SMs, so I am not sure about the transmission filter.
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