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Thread: Heated gear

  1. #1
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    Default Heated gear

    I had heated gear on my vulcan. would like to inst. on rt-s, se5. will add comm. package and trailer when it gets here. I read a comment on heated seat. Do you think i'll have voltage and battery problems with heated gear? Don't have shop manual as of yet, not going to pay 152.00 for though.

  2. #2
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    Can't help with the heated gear since my RT hasn't come in yet but here is a shop manual on CD for way less than $152.00.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2010-...item53dfafa2ed

    I bought one and I'm very pleased with it. Shipping was free and very fast but they also give you a link to download it within an hour or so of paying for it. My connection isn't really fast so it took me about 2.5 hours to download it but that wasn't a problem. I can print any pages I want and not have to worry about getting them dirty or tearing them up. Also have a digital search function so it makes it easier to find things than a paper version. Not trying to sell it at all but, if you can live with a CD version, it might save you some money.

    Cotton

  3. #3
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    I have used my heated vest on my RT-S, and Nancy's GS/RS. No problems...with careful use. Nancy has used both heated jacket and gloves on her GS/RS. The older model Spyder has an even smaller charging magneto, but the machine also does not have the heated grips, higher wattage headlights, and an audio system for a greater electrical load, like the RT-S has.

    Heated gear draws a lot of juice, ranging from approximately 2.2 amps (27 watts) for a pair of gloves to 3.6 A (44 W) for pants, to 4.5 A (54 W) for a vest, to 6.7 A (77 W) for a jacket. This all adds up fast with a 650 W magneto. You must use them wisely. You can save 70 W by not using the foglights, and more by avoiding the heated grips. Turn off the heated gear in stop-and-go traffic, and keep the rpms up. Remember that the Spyder only puts out half its rated charging capacity at 4,000 rpm.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I have used my heated vest on my RT-S, and Nancy's GS/RS. No problems...with careful use. Nancy has used both heated jacket and gloves on her GS/RS. The older model Spyder has an even smaller charging magneto, but the machine also does not have the heated grips, higher wattage headlights, and an audio system for a greater electrical load, like the RT-S has.

    Heated gear draws a lot of juice, ranging from approximately 2.2 amps (27 watts) for a pair of gloves to 3.6 A (44 W) for pants, to 4.5 A (54 W) for a vest, to 6.7 A (77 W) for a jacket. This all adds up fast with a 650 W magneto. You must use them wisely. You can save 70 W by not using the foglights, and more by avoiding the heated grips. Turn off the heated gear in stop-and-go traffic, and keep the rpms up. Remember that the Spyder only puts out half its rated charging capacity at 4,000 rpm.
    Thanks for the heads up, I should check on our gear(SYNERGY) for ratings. 650W dont seem like enough. will check for that cd aswell. On my 1500 we upgraded alt to the comp-u-fire. do you think they'll do something like that for rt's.

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Even though the RS/GS has a smaller output than the RT it has more reserve than the RT. The computers are the biggest draw on the RT. If the DPS and VSS are working hard you may find that you are running short on your charge and could wind up with a dead battery or a low battery that could cause other issues. If you're going to use heated gear I would for sure turn off your foglights and it wouldn't be a bad idea to turn the heated grips off when you didn't need them.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Even though the RS/GS has a smaller output than the RT it has more reserve than the RT. The computers are the biggest draw on the RT. If the DPS and VSS are working hard you may find that you are running short on your charge and could wind up with a dead battery or a low battery that could cause other issues. If you're going to use heated gear I would for sure turn off your foglights and it wouldn't be a bad idea to turn the heated grips off when you didn't need them.
    During my travels this winter I have been using my heated Gerbing Jacket, Pants and Gloves with dual thermostate while I was in the snow and traveling across country.

    However I have taken Lamounts advise and not run the fog lights while staying warm, when I use the heated gloves i did not need the heated grips so they are off also.

    I have never drained the battery or had a loss of energy where the bike will not start. I have had no issues in 17,500 miles on either RT.

    Good luck and use your heated gear.

  7. #7
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    Default Heated Gear

    I would highly recomment getting an 12 volt digital voltmeter to monitor your voltage when using heated gear. You can check this site http://www.digitalmeter.com/ for info. I got one and it's great to have! I would also recommend using an off/on switch with it.

    John

  8. #8
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    Default Heated Gear

    My wifes first 3500 mi. were with Gerbing jacket liner , pants and gloves, I installed a Kuryakin led voltage meter as soon as she got her bike and verified the accuracy of the led with a multimeter and then plugged in the clothes, with all on 100% voltage never dropped below 12.8 volts at idle , since she never runs gear 100% this should never be an issue, she watches her LED and knows to turn down or off in prolonged traffic in town as Gerbing recommends. On the highway with gear at comfortable setting she shows two green lights which my multimeter says 13.7volts constant looks safe to me, I have used this meter on all of my bikes for a while now very reassuring, just verify voltage when installing to know exactly what you have , hope this helps.

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