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WESTGL - When you get your Spyder back, and confirm it's fixed, would you please post what specifically they did to fix it (from the paperwork). This could save someone troubleshooting time in the future. Thank you.
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Originally Posted by spyryder
It only happened once didn't it?
Try putting some more miles on it.....it's probably still breaking in.
bad advice a new bike that is breaking in should NOT do this....see the dealer
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
The SE5 is meant to be shifted under power. It "blips" the throttle for you. This is an operator thing you are going to have to get used to. Don't close the throttle.
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Originally Posted by Dudley
Also, when you start the SE5, with your foot on the brake, the Spyder will always start in Neutral, so why does yours jump forward?
its SUPPOSED to start in neutral automatically...but when its messed up, it can start in gear as mine did....i almost ran into the wall in my shed.....it malfunctioned because the shift solenoid was going bad....dealer replaced and alls well..
Last edited by aubierules; 03-04-2010 at 08:52 AM.
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Originally Posted by aubierules
bad advice a new bike that is breaking in should NOT do this....see the dealer
A few others have posted similar problems which went away after an oil change and/or more miles accumulated.
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Originally Posted by spyryder
A few others have posted similar problems which went away after an oil change and/or more miles accumulated.
this is by no means a problem that will resolve itself...in my opinion it is not good advice to tell someone to keep riding it and it will go away...you dont know that to be true. what if he did ignore it and it caused him to get in an accident or tore his bike up..im not saying your being malicious but its just not good advice to give....in my opinion of course
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Originally Posted by aubierules
this is by no means a problem that will resolve itself...in my opinion it is not good advice to tell someone to keep riding it and it will go away...you dont know that to be true. what if he did ignore it and it caused him to get in an accident or tore his bike up..im not saying your being malicious but its just not good advice to give....in my opinion of course
Aubie, at the start of this thread it had seemed to only have happened once initially. Would you really want them to take it all apart if it didn't happen again? And I DO know it to be true as far as it's been reported by some right here who haven't had further problems since having the oil changed, or had accumulated more mileage.
Of course in the OP's case it DID happen more than once and had gotten progressively worse, in which case a dealer visit was in order.
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SE5 Centriugal Clutch Problem
I went and picked up my Spyder today.
My dealer said that the Centrifugal Clutch had to be replaced.
My Dealer said by the looks at the parts there was some strange looking wear on the CC plates.
They replaced the whole Centrifugal clutch assembly.
My Windshield was making a lot on noise, the spacers were too thin and left a lot of play and the windshield could move around causing the excessive noise.
Now that is has been fixed, well I only rode it about 12 miles, but it did not run this good when it was delivered to me new, The CC starts to lock up about 1700-1800rpm now. CC releases about 1500rpm
The engine feels like the motor is in neutral when your in 1st it drives really nice now.
I need to ride the more and put some miles on it.
Ill try to get a couple hundred miles on it. Then tell you all how it is doing.
Westgl
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Originally Posted by westgl
I went and picked up my Spyder today.
My dealer said that the Centrifugal Clutch had to be replaced.
My Dealer said by the looks at the parts there was some strange looking wear on the CC plates.
They replaced the whole Centrifugal clutch assembly.
My Windshield was making a lot on noise, the spacers were too thin and left a lot of play and the windshield could move around causing the excessive noise.
Now that is has been fixed, well I only rode it about 12 miles, but it did not run this good when it was delivered to me new, The CC starts to lock up about 1700-1800rpm now. CC releases about 1500rpm
The engine feels like the motor is in neutral when your in 1st it drives really nice now.
I need to ride the more and put some miles on it.
Ill try to get a couple hundred miles on it. Then tell you all how it is doing.
Westgl
So glad to hear the good news. Glad you are smiling now. Any manufacturer can flub up...and it is disappointing. It is how they respond and remedy the problem that shows the manufacturer's and dealer's true character. Enjoy the Ryde (at last).
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RT-S SE5 stalling in first, the saga continues...
Back from bike week in Daytona. Overall a great trip. Highlights include meeting several other Spyder lovers and riding on the Daytona track with 63 other Spyders. Put allot of miles on the RT-S both on the highway and in intense traffic.
Here is a summary of issues during the trip that are relevant to this thread:
1. Before leaving Tampa – rolled into the gas station and Spyder stalled in first. Couldn’t get it started by pressing on break. It tried to roll forward when attempting to start. Stuck in first again. Have been there before, had to use the #13 wrench to get it into neutral to get it started. (Interesting #13 wrench; ironic if you believe in that kind of stuff.)
2. Stalled in first 2 additional times during the entire trip. Once just after it started up one cold morning rolling about 100 feet and once coming of I-4 into a rest stop while hot. Was able to apply the break to re-start it both time. Didn’t lock in 1st and didn’t have to use #13 wrench.
Interest enough, while on the trip, got a voice mail from the sales guy from the dealership asking how things are going with the Spyder. How lucky can someone get? Guess who is going to get a call on Monday.
With the first 600 mile service done and over 1000 miles on it now hope the dealer will find out why it keeps stalling in first. Keep everyone posted…
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Hey Ddileo & others
Glad to hear Daytona was a great trip.
I was going to go to Daytona when My Spyder broke down, My spyder was at the dealer for a week or so.
Your Spyder sounds like you are having most of the same problems that i was having.
As I stated with mine they replaced the whole Centrifugal clutch.
I went on a 80 mile ride today, and WOW !!! My bike runs so much better.
I thought because of the, not shifting from 1st to neutral that a shift solenoid may need to be replaced, but it did not.
Once the Centrifugal clutch was replaced, all my problems went away.
My became sooo smooth.
Tomorrow I plan on getting an early start and maybe putting on a hundred plus miles.
If you are having this problem, I would definitely run, do not walk, to your nearest dealer.
Get the problem fixed now!!! before spring starts.
I have about 150miles till my 600-mile service.
Don't be afraid to take the Spyder in for repairs, get it fixed! Do not live another day with a problem like this.
Westgl
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Originally Posted by elpaso
Mine has died about 3 times a week while it down shifts from second to first while coming to a stop. Anybody else having this problem?
Yes ... same problem at about 300 miles. I called the dealer right after I had to push my spyder out of an intersection. He said he knew what it was and if I couldn't get it started after a 'reset' to call and they would come and get me, my wife and the RT. The RT would not just start all the time ... would panic ... had to remember the 'reset' ... shut it down and pull the key - so on and so on. Well it did restart. He did tell me to make sure to manually down shift on the way to the Dealership before any stopping. I took it in and they said that they would 'download a fix' and if that didn't resolve it then it would need a new sensor for the clutch(?). I didn't need the sensor the 'download' worked and never a problem since. I hope my story helps.
Tony
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Originally Posted by ynot9771
Yes ... same problem at about 300 miles. I called the dealer right after I had to push my spyder out of an intersection. He said he knew what it was and if I couldn't get it started after a 'reset' to call and they would come and get me, my wife and the RT. The RT would not just start all the time ... would panic ... had to remember the 'reset' ... shut it down and pull the key - so on and so on. Well it did restart. He did tell me to make sure to manually down shift on the way to the Dealership before any stopping. I took it in and they said that they would 'download a fix' and if that didn't resolve it then it would need a new sensor for the clutch(?). I didn't need the sensor the 'download' worked and never a problem since. I hope my story helps.
Tony
Yes ours stalled two blocks from dealer after break in serv. unfortunately they locked up and went home same time. Rode the sixty five miles home repeated 2 more times on way, rode next day to coast and back 240 miles and worked perfectly. probably cause the wife rode. I was side kick. s/k just shrugged thier shoulders w/no clue..
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by outdoorallens
Yes ours stalled two blocks from dealer after break in serv. unfortunately they locked up and went home same time. Rode the sixty five miles home repeated 2 more times on way, rode next day to coast and back 240 miles and worked perfectly. probably cause the wife rode. I was side kick. s/k just shrugged thier shoulders w/no clue..
You need to get it back to your dealer asap.
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RT-S PE#0412
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Most likely the centrifugal clutch, but why tell the dealer what to look for, and cut your options? The dealer should figure it out, calling BRP for help, if needed. That way it is more likely to get thoroughly cured...plus none of the responsibility rests with you. If your tech gets puzzled, and BRP can't help, then you can make suggestions, but I would not do it beforehand.
so true, I give my mechanic the symptoms but never the diagnosis, that way they may see or hear some other contributing factor.
Unless a part falls off, I did tell them the poor reception was do to a missing antenna
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Most likely the centrifugal clutch, but why tell the dealer what to look for, and cut your options? The dealer should figure it out, calling BRP for help, if needed. That way it is more likely to get thoroughly cured...plus none of the responsibility rests with you. If your tech gets puzzled, and BRP can't help, then you can make suggestions, but I would not do it beforehand.
soo true, my service manager consulted w/his top tech and they came back with this comment( what grade of fuel are you using ). lost my patients when that happened. let's play the blame game first instead of diognosing the problem.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by outdoorallens
soo true, my service manager consulted w/his top tech and they came back with this comment( what grade of fuel are you using ). lost my patients when that happened. let's play the blame game first instead of diognosing the problem.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=10017
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RT-S PE#0060
gold wings
I bought 4 new gold wings had to replace carb on one and clutch on one glad it was under warranty so they have their problems too
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New Part #
Your dealer should be ordering part # 420685543. This is the updated centrifugal Clutch that BRP came out with that will fix your "creeping" problem. The pins inside the centrifugal rollers are a different size, most if not all the 2008 models will have the older style in them. Depending on how long and how bad your Spyder has been creeping it may have also overheated the clutch plates therefore they too may also have to be replaced. The clutches also MUST be adjusted properly with a adjuster plate in the clutch basket (part # 420281535).
The updated centrifugal clutch should already be installed on the 2010 models. The part numbers listed above are for the RS models only. We have not yet had (and hopeully won't) any RT's in our shop with this problem.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Speed-Sports; 03-18-2010 at 03:07 PM.
Reason: Updated
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Thanks for kicking in, here!
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Originally Posted by Speed-Sports
Your dealer should be ordering part # 420685543. This is the updated centrifugal Clutch that BRP came out with that will fix your "creeping" problem. The pins inside the centrifugal rollers are a different size, most if not all the 2008 models will have the older style in them. Depending on how long and how bad your Spyder has been creeping it may have also overheated the clutch plates therefore they too may also have to be replaced. The clutches also MUST be adjusted properly with a adjuster plate in the clutch basket (part # 420281535).
The updated centrifugal clutch should already be installed on the 2010 models. The part numbers listed above are for the RS models only. We have not yet had (and hopeully won't) any RT's in our shop with this problem.
Hope this helps.
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Finally fixed ...
Update, dealer finally got the centrifugal clutch in from BRP. Took a week and two days to ship from BRP. Hey what can you say when it's coming from Canada A. Shift is much smoother and no stalling in 1st gear. Let the riding begin...
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