Who Uses Shell Rotella T-6

[troop]

Do we have anybody here who has had their Shell oil analyzed and is willing to share their findings with us? With an oil analysis of the XPS blended stuff proved to me that I never want to use this again. Virtually the viscosity was gone!

Lots of T6 info on https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

[Lew L]

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Now using 15w-40 Rotella in the high desert. Used to use the 5w-40 but liking the slightly heavier oil.

[bikerbillone]

Thinking hard about 15/40, it's working for you? Tell how it's better for you than the 5/40 if you will. I know it's heavier, and may even reduce the mpg.....

[PMK]

Thinking hard about 15/40, it's working for you? Tell how it's better for you than the 5/40 if you will. I know it's heavier, and may even reduce the mpg.....

As general truths;

The lower number / first viscosity is a rating for oil that is not warmed up. Not uncommon for engine manufacturers to utilize oils with a 0w, or 5w, to increase cold oil flow to lubricate many times, overhead cams. Oils with greater viscosity before warm up, such as 10w, 15w, 20w, may not provide high pressure film strength on account of poor cold flow.

Owners manuals often show a viscosity vs temp chart. Again, as a general statement, an easy to recall temp of not using more viscous cold rated oil can be below 32*f, when a 5w would be better.

Regarding the 40 rating, that is the increased viscosity for warm oil. Technically a 5w40 vs 10w40 vs 15w40 are all 40 wt at warmed up temp.

Additionally, often, but not always, the closer the cold and hot oil temp are, the stronger the VI rating. A higher VI rating, typically is better for a gearbox such as in the Spyder.

While some folks here have read articles, forum posts, etc. and repeat internet learned knowledge, my experience on the race bikes knows the reality of low VI oils, and how it adversely effects selecting each gear. Never fun when accomplishing wide open throttle upshifts with a very slight partial clutch release. Finding false neutrals, or breaking a gearbox can ruin a good raceday.

Continuing, a modern engine with decent oil, very seldom will have an issue. Essentially, engines are not hard on oils. Granted, cam lobes against tappets is a high load shearing event, but not that bad.

A gearbox on the other hand shreds the oil molecules, reducing its effective viscosity, AND not providing the cushioning plus anti wear to gear teeth, gear dogs, primary drive and even clutch plates.

Here in SoFlo, we have maybe 2 days a year in the really cold 30s. For us, we seldom ride if 60 or below, so I am beyond comfortable running 10w40. Yes, I prefer Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil for not only its very high test results, but also, the gearbox does shift better, and often, with warm oil, seldom has the clunk going into gear. It does clunk sometimes, but less often than most.

I totally understand that many owners live on fixed incomes or similar, and carry that frugality with the oil they use for their Spyder. Yes, I pay more for the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, but remains cost effective for our lifestyle and Spyder.

All the best, whichever you decide to go with.

Also, for higher rpm, or higher performance engines, even our cars, I seldom switch brands unless for very good reasons. The logic is engine cleanliness and not wanting to release any build ups that may block a an oil pump suction screen.

[troop]

For warmer weather climates, maybe a 10w50..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Chasdog]

Great oil thread! I've read most of the comments. I am a Mobil 1 fan myself and that has been the predominant oil in my motorcycles for the past 15 or more years. Mobile 1 racing 4T was my go-to oil. I generally try to stick with the recommendation for viscosity the manufacturer suggests. I’ve used some Lucas oil before and was happy with that.
Recently picked up several gallons of T6 5W40. I emailed Shell about the suitability of the T6 oil for motorcycles and to the best of my memory they assured me it had the JASO MA certification.
Anyway, I’m still using the Can Am semi-synthetic in our 2023 RT. May switch to the T6 after I finish the expensive stuff.
So far, I’ve only put the T6 in my Can Am ATV.