Oil analysis @ 3 years & 9500 miles.

[mecsw500]

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in Canadian money.

[Peter Aawen]

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in Canadian money.

I suspect BRP chose 9300 miles because that is almost exactly 15,000 kilometers in the Rest of the World.

Fixed that bit for you mecsw.

It will be a LOT easier when you lot do eventually catch up!! Not only for you (cos most of you do have only a total of ten digits on your hands, don't you? ) but also for the rest of the World too!

You've no idea how much of a pain it is having to convert back to the archaic system we left behind decades ago just so you all can understand!!

Just Sayin'

[BoatFixx]

I highly doubt moisture condensation is any concern in these Spyders, at least for the vast majority.

[BoatFixx]

The moisture accumulation is not huge, even in a high humidity environment like I have here in Tennessee. It's not like you're going to get a cup of water sitting at the bottom of your sump. It's more like a light dew which forms on engine surfaces above the oil line. However, even a small amount getting through the oil film to vulnerable iron parts can be significant, over time.

If you do your oil sample correctly (hot oil, mid-drain). Chances are that any moisture will have vaporized before the oil sample is taken.

Where the effects of water show up is in 2 places. As the bike sits, moisture can and does accumulate. If the oil does not adequately protect ferrous metal parts, rust will form. When you start the engine, this rust will be removed and washed into the oil. It is much too fine for the filter to remove and shows up as increased iron content in the sample.

There is a 2nd indication that your oil is not providing adequate protection from the inevitable moisture which accumulates in an engine/transmission with long periods between being brought to operating temperature (the oil, not coolant). Because moisture reacts with gasoline impurities in the oil to form a corrosive mixture which will attack other, non ferrous metals like Aluminum and Copper. These will show up in an analysis as well.

Too many falsely think that bringing the coolant to operating temperature with a high idle over the winter is a good idea. This practice has many downsides, including the possibility of making oil issues worse. It does have the single advantage of sending lubrication to parts that may have lost their protective coating. This benefit depends on the quality of the oil. Lesser oils tend to drain off and leave parts unprotected.

If you can't get out and ride far enough to get the oil to operating temperature. It is best to let your bike sit. Letting it run at idle for 15-20 minutes does more harm than good. The oil will not change temperature and remains cold. You can't burn off the moisture this way.

The OP's experience is similar to mine. Though my Spyder sat without running for 4.5 years. My oil sample came back with flying colors, just as his did. Not a comprehensive spread. Just another data point to throw into the mix.

As a 50 year Cummins Marine Diesel service I've seen many a diesel engine where moisture is an issue, and also riding motorcycles all those years, you nailed it with your dissertation, Ron!

[RealWing]

Interesting about your fuel dilution results. I was surprised to find that my dilution was 3% at my first oil change. I took it for a run of serval Km and it was fully warmed up, but maybe I should have run further. Will know when I change it again later this year. Amsoil 10w40 in it now.

[bikerbillone]

Right Bob, that was my interpretation, quite impressive. I do read the oil threads right on through the pop corn people.

[2dogs]

I ran my oil for 10,000 miles and just sent a sample in for analysis. I use Amsoil 10W40 and I have 60,000 miles on the spyder. Why did BRP pick 9,300? Previous analysis at 9,300 returned still usable. What would another 700 miles hurt? We'll see how it comes out.

Here's the results of my oil analysis of Amsoil at 10K miles.

Flagged data does not indicate an immediate need for maintenance action. Continue to observe the trend and monitor equipment and
fluid conditions. FUEL DILUTION is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Nickel is at a MINOR LEVEL; Possible valve train (valves, stems, guides etc.)
metal; LEAD is at a MINOR LEVEL and may be OVERLAY METAL from MAIN/ROD BEARINGS; Boron is slightly low for this lubricant. Boron
levels may naturally decline with use so this is not a cause for concern. Please provide COMPONENT MODEL number to compare data to
the correct standards for this component. Oil is suitable for continued use. Re-sample in 3,500 miles or 65 hours.

[jjc54]

What was the viscosity?

[Mikey]

[2dogs]

What was the viscosity?

13.7 @ 100 degrees C

[PMK]

For folks with fuel concerns on their oil samples, you might consider that if the Spyder has a remapped ignition, that could be a source.

Greater power output requires more fuel to make the power, even running rich of peak to keep valves, pistons, etc from becoming damaged.

Also, a poorly working or failed fuel tank purge system could introduce raw excess fuel.

Ambient temps also require fuel adjustments to obtain proper trims. In higher heat areas, the greater intake temp will cause a rich condition and significant power loss. Simply another possibility.

Not saying that is the absolute reason why, just areas of concern I would have.

[mecsw500]

Ozzie: Thanks for fixing this for me.

As I was not born in the US, I have never adapted to a measurement system used by only 3 countries worldwide: the US, Myanmar (Burma) and Liberia.

Despite having been here 34 years, I have to do a mental conversion every time somebody quotes weight, measures or temperatures to me even now. Notice I have adapted to litres and metres being spelt incorrectly at least.

My wife is often embarrassed when we go to the store and people just stare at me when I ask for things in metric quantities. She says I sound like I'm JOB, "Just Off the Boat".

We are a nation of immigrants and some of us more recent arrivals are as frustrated as you are trying to remember there is 1760 yards in a mile, let alone 3 feet in a yard or 12 inches in something or other. I still can't tell you how many cups are in a pint and don't even get me started on the temperature scale.

But, it is how it is when it comes to distances, as all the roads are marked in miles (well except for a few routes heading north from Mexico in which speeds and distances are actually metric).

So for many Americans 9300 miles would seem to be such a random choice of distance but to me, my mental math just says that sounds like about 15,000 klicks which would make sense to Canadians.

If everything changed to metric in the US overnight, distances would still be in miles just like in the UK, despite the UK being metric for everything else, as the cost of replacing all the road signs would be prohibitive.

I don't think motor vehicles are actually built with Imperial measurements any more, even in the US. I think the only exception is wheel diameters and even then the tire widths and stud spacings are metric. Go figure.

At least we teach the metric system in schools so most youngsters understand both systems.

I guess I'm just too old to adapt.

[bikerbillone]

Good one, too old to adapt, as are many of 'seniors'.

[BamaJohn]

Being late to this thread, and not wanting to disappoint "Mikey", I just received the oil analysis from Blackstone for my 2020 Spyder RT....and it is a shocker! I've been using Castrol Power 1 4T synthetic for Motorcycles on my motorcycles for the past 15 years, thinking it was "top tier".
So, I wanted to do a test by going the full 9,000 miles after the last oil change to see how the Castrol held up - it didn't!

Ron can expect an order for Amsoil after this.

[bikerbillone]

John, thanks for sharing. Most interesting.

[PMK]

Being late to this thread, and not wanting to disappoint "Mikey", I just received the oil analysis from Blackstone for my 2020 Spyder RT....and it is a shocker! I've been using Castrol Power 1 4T synthetic for Motorcycles on my motorcycles for the past 15 years, thinking it was "top tier".
So, I wanted to do a test by going the full 9,000 miles after the last oil change to see how the Castrol held up - it didn't!

Ron can expect an order for Amsoil after this.

Engine will be fine, the gearbox will not enjoy such a reduction in viscosity from use. Curious if your magnet had greater than normal steel particles on it.

[BamaJohn]

Engine will be fine, the gearbox will not enjoy such a reduction in viscosity from use. Curious if your magnet had greater than normal steel particles on it.

Thanks PMK - Magnets looked fine (Dimple plugs on both drain ports).
I did have some pretty aggressive riding in April in NC, WV, VA, TN, KY, GA over a week's time, but I'm hoping that some kind of anomaly is in play. At any rate, I'll be changing out the current Castrol at 5,000 miles and moving on to Amsoil or Mobile 1 4T. I had previously been changing oil at 5,000-6,000 miles, so only went to 9,000 for this test. The Spyder has 28,000 miles on it.

[troop]

That's why I won't use a 5w40 grade oil in my Spyder. Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is also well known to shear quickly in shared sump applications. I'll continue to stick with 10w40/50 formulas. That said, I likely won't get more than 6K miles on the oil between changes in my Wisconsin riding environment.

[bikerbillone]

I tend to agree with you Troop. I've been using Rotella T6 5w40, and that's because they don't sell 10w40 T6; I think the 5w40 will shear too easily in the Florida heat. So, my next change, soon, will be to Mobil1 10w40. That only comes in high mileage, but it should work in my 2020 RTL.

[PMK]

I tend to agree with you Troop. I've been using Rotella T6 5w40, and that's because they don't sell 10w40 T6; I think the 5w40 will shear too easily in the Florida heat. So, my next change, soon, will be to Mobil1 10w40. That only comes in high mileage, but it should work in my 2020 RTL.

Are you planning on using Mobil1 automotive oil?
As you likely have read, our 2014 RTS has had Mobil1 motorcycle oil since broken in on BRP oil.

5000 miles per oil change on Mobil1 motorcycle oil; and replace the filter each time also. More a calendar thing than miles ridden per year thing.

Just be cautious if using Mobil1 automotive oil. Not sure where it rates on 540Rats blog, or if Mobil1 automotive is wet clutch compatible.

[bikerbillone]

Yes, gonna give it shot, been doing a lot of Google read, and I'm aware of the additional additive for MC's. If I feel any change, any change at all, I'll be doing a quick oil change and return to my Rotella T6 5w40.

[PMK]

Yes, gonna give it shot, been doing a lot of Google read, and I'm aware of the additional additive for MC's. If I feel any change, any change at all, I'll be doing a quick oil change and return to my Rotella T6 5w40.

I understand the saving money part, but my brain says oil is inexpensive compared to damaging a gearbox or clutch.
Truthfully though, I suspect the gearbox and clutch will live.
My worry would be the alternator coupling slipping. I recall topics/posts from a while back where folks used auto oil; and they noticed the whine of the alternator coupling when turning.

Absolutely your call and curious how it works out.

[bikerbillone]

I hear you, and I may change my ever lovin' mind and buy some Amsoil from Ron, if he has it. Amsoil will give me peace of mind, but man, getting around that price... I know what you're thinking, you have a point, you really do!

Alternator coupling, now there's something I had not considered...

[JKMSPYDER]

Just a hint. I pay $20 per year for an Amsoil membership and get a good discount on all their oil. I use Amsoil in my pickup, my wife’s car, and my Spyder. I get the oil filters for the truck and car from Amsoil too.

[troop]

Just head to your local Walmart and pick up (5) quarts of the M1 4T 10w40 motorcycle oil or free delivery. The peace of mind alone is worth it. That said, the M1 10w40 high mileage full syn DOES MEET BRP criteria for API SM and SN rating. And no Energy Conserving star label.
API service classification SJ, SL, SM, or SN. Always check the API service label certification on the oil container, it must contain at least one of the indicated standards.