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2010 RT-S with front end wobble after brake change - can anyone help?
Hi everyone. I have been having front end wobbles ever since I changed the front brakes. Before I did the brakes, there was no wobble. I was wondering if anyone can help me this problem?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:17 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
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Active Member
You may have tightened the wheels unevenly. Loosen the lug nuts and retighten alternately a little at a time and then torque to 75 ft lbs. If it still persists you may have some debris behind a rotor that needs to be cleaned.
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Very Active Member
What, exactly, did you do on your 'Brake Change'?
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:14 PM.
Reason: Caps & ' 's ;-)
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Active Member
Does the wobble come after driving a while or is it constant?
If it comes after a while your new pads might pinch the disc a tad and get really hot, which will cause the disk to deform and create the wobble.
If it is constant, my guess is that something is not properly placed when putting wheels back on. Try taking them off and inspect, then out them back on again and see if that helped!
Best of luck.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:15 PM.
Brgds Martin
First Spyder: RS 2008 Yellow&Black - Current: 2012 Spyder RTS Magnesium, bought new from dealer in 2015.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
I just changed the pads
That is unusual. Using the wrong torque procedure could warp the rotors. But this is fairly hard to do. Do you have a runout gauge to check your rotors with?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:15 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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The brakes were snug when I put them in. I used a torque wrench to set them properly.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:16 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
The brakes were snug when I put them in. I used a torque wrench to set them properly.
You should run at least 2 increments (we do 3) or phases on the torque process. If you torque one lug nut to full spec with the other 2 loose, that can warp your rotor.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:17 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
Hi everyone. I have been having front end wobbles ever since I changed the front brakes. Before I did the brakes, there was no wobble. I was wondering if anyone can help me this problem?
Is the wobble all the time or just when you apply the brakes? Maybe loosen the wheels and start over on the tightening sequence! Does it feel like one side grabs more than the other?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:19 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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The brake pads were little hard to put on over the rotor, can that possibly cause this problem until they wear down?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:20 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
The brake pads were little hard to put on over the rotor, can that possibly cause this problem until they wear down?
So, you're saying that you can't easily spin your wheels with the brakes disengaged? You need to re-do the install if this is the case. Not a good idea to wear down a set of pads by having them constantly engaged. That will certainly warp rotors.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-06-2024 at 06:20 PM.
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Interesting the brakes fit that tightly.
If mechanically the work was done correctly, and the brake system in not restricting return fluid, the question then becomes what brand brake pads did you install and where did you buy them.
Many folks are refusing to buy oem or EBC due to cost. Those folks have saved money buying from EBay and Amazon, just wondering if the new parts are simply incorrect dimensionally.
If those brakes are as tight as you explained, and you rode it, very possibly the brake discs are trashed at this point.
Regardless, all the best resolving it.
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Hi everyone. I took the wheel off and checked to see if there was anything there to cause the vibration. Afterwards, I took it for a good ride and now it has a vibration when it hits 79 to 81 kmh and in the curves. It leaves when I've been riding for a long period, but as soon as I take a curve again, it comes back at 79 to 81 kmh. There's no vibration above or below that speed. It's weird, tomorrow I'm taking the wheel off and will get them to balance it to see if anything happens then.
Thank you for your help
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-07-2024 at 09:28 PM.
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Check the rear bearing, I bought a 2011 and had a vibration took the rear wheel off and sure enough the left bearing was shot.
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Hi everyone. I was wondering if there is video on how to do a wheel alignment on a 2010 RT-S?
Thanks
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-08-2024 at 04:44 PM.
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Very Active Member
Did you knock off a wheel weight?
Retired U.S. Coast Guard 76-97
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No, but I was told where I am getting the wheels balanced, that one of tires is wearing more on the right side, and I should get a wheel alignment.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-08-2024 at 04:43 PM.
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Very Active Member
Like already mentioned, check the bearings, they can cause tire wear also and a vibration when going around a curve.
Do this before getting an alignment.
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Just got the tires rebalanced. They said they were off balance a little.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-08-2024 at 04:42 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
Just got the tires re-balanced. They said they were off balance a little.
Now that you know that your tires are properly balanced get tour bike laser aligned. Just had my 2018 F3-T done and I can't believe the difference in precision in steering and no push feeling when cornering!!!!
Al in Kazoo
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Very Active Member
2010 RT-S with front end wobble
Originally Posted by langevn
Just got the tires re-balanced. They said they were off balance a little.
Now that you know that your tires are properly balanced get your bike laser aligned. Just had my 2018 F3-T done and I can't believe the difference in precision in steering and no push feeling when cornering!!!!
Al in Kazoo
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by langevn
Just got the tires rebalanced. They said they were off balance a little.
And did this stop the wobble?
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It's been raining and cold in this area, so as soon as the weather gets better, I will do a test ride!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-10-2024 at 07:15 PM.
Reason: ???
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Hi everyone, I did a test on my Spyder. It still wobbles now after 80 km and up.
I did get the wheels balanced, changed the rear tire, did an alignment on the belt, and also checked if any discs were warped. It was all good, but the wobble is still there. I am clueless as to what is happening. Last year I changed the lower left ball joint, and it went away; can another one be doing this?
Thanks.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-17-2024 at 04:30 PM.
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Very Active Member
I would check A-Arm bushings. Have they ever been lubed? The usual answer is 'No, I didn't even know they could be lubed'. And they aren't easy to get to.
If they have not been lubed there is a very good chance that they are worn out. When they get worn, they can give you the same effect as a warped rotor. You could try this and see if there is any improvement. If they are worn, you'll still need to change them. But lubing them might give you a clue if these are the problem.
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