Just brought my new-to-me Spyder home. Neither of the keys have any way to attach them to a key ring... How has this group solved that problem?? I hate just putting it in my pocket and hoping it does not fall out.
Windhound
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-14-2024 at 03:58 PM.
Don't you still have the black plastic sheaths the keys came with originally??
They have a small ring thru the hole on the pointy end to let you attach them to a chain, a fob, or whatever, and they seem to work pretty well to me!! Mine still work fine after 10+ years and a lot of miles; and they keep the key's profile in good condition too; no knicks or wear in the profile &/or damage to the grooves etc. despite them often being jammed in amongst a pocket full of other keys, a bunch of coin, and the odd tool, socket, or file etc. where there's been plenty of opportunity for extra wear &/or damage to the important bits!
Failing still having the OEM Sheath, Lamonster & a few others sell 'key fobs' or 'key covers' for the other end of the key, the handle end, that go around the bit of the key you grasp to turn which have holes in them for a wire or key ring; and if you search back thru the older threads here, there's a bunch of info on how to locate the right spot and drill a hole thru the handle end of the key so you can add a key ring.
Mind you, IMHO the OEM Key Sheath is still by far the best option, and IIRC, you can even get new replacements from BRP... not sure how expensive they might be tho?!
I swallow the key and regurgitate when needed. No key ring needed. Tried to get on with the circus but couldn’t multi task and swallow fire like they wanted. So I stick to my usual routine.
As you can see, there's a hole at the end of the sheath, which I have attached to a keyring, which also has my house key, and the lock key/pin for the Arkon motorcycle mount I use for a Garmin Zumo XT GPS.
I use the a generic key ring attached to the OEM plastic sheath. I don’t like having a key ring attached to the key itself while riding because I don’t like the added weight pulling on the key over time while it’s in the ignition and I don’t want scratches from a key ring rubbing against the body work.
As you can see, there's a hole at the end of the sheath, which I have attached to a keyring, which also has my house key, and the lock key/pin for the Arkon motorcycle mount I use for a Garmin Zumo XT GPS.
When stopping for lunch, the key goes in the little watch pocket of my riding pants. The rest of the time it is on the OEM key holder on my key ring.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-15-2024 at 08:49 AM.
Reason: Fixed attach display ;-)
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
FYI information - Not related to Spyder, but possibly could be. My old 2010 F-150 has an electronic chip embedded in the head of the key to activate an antitheift device of the ignition switch. After about 10 or 12 years the plastic part covering the head of the key had deteriorated to the point that one day when I stuck the key in the truck door to unlock the door, the plastic part broke into several pieces and fell on the partking lot. The key with a bare head was still sticking in the truck door. I saw that a round coin shaped piece was missing out of the bare key. Found the little coin shaped piece on the asphalt below the truck door. I picked that up and stuck it back in the broken key. As long as the coin shaped piece was held in the broken key by hand, the truck would start. Once the truck was started, it would keep running even if you put the coin shaped piece in the console tray.
I already knew that a locksmith would charge well over $100 to reproduce a set of working keys compatable with the truck anti-theift ignition. Since the broken key would start the truck if the coin shaped anti-theift device was held in place, there was no reason to give a locksmith $100 or get out the extra keys for the truck. I had a couple of JB Weld epoxy sets in my tool box. When I got back home, I cleaned all the broken, deteriorated plastic off the bare key. Roughed up the key some with course sand paper to help the JB Weld hold. I put the coin shaped piece back in the round hole it came out of. Tried it in the truck to be sure it would start the truck. It did, so I completely covered the key, with the anti-theift coin device back in place, with JB Weld. First covering was a little messy looking due to having to be smeared on. I let that cure for 48 hours. Then sanded the JB Weld down smooth and re-shaped the edges to a smooth finish. Tried the repaired key in the truck, and it worked. I put one more thinner coat of JB Weld on the key to make it stronger. After it cured, I sanded that down smooth, drilled a hole in the top that would miss the anti-theift device, and painted it black.
The key repaired with JB Weld is stronger than the original plastic truck keys. Still using the repaired key, years later, and it works fine every time. It cost about $4 worth of JB Weld to fix the key instead of > $100 to a locksmith. The only difference in the repaired key and the original is the lack of the brand logo on it, and that has nothing to do with the way it works.
FYI information - Not related to Spyder, but possibly could be. My old 2010 F-150 has an electronic chip embedded in the head of the key to activate an antitheift device of the ignition switch. After about 10 or 12 years the plastic part covering the head of the key had deteriorated to the point that one day when I stuck the key in the truck door to unlock the door, the plastic part broke into several pieces and fell on the partking lot. The key with a bare head was still sticking in the truck door. I saw that a round coin shaped piece was missing out of the bare key. Found the little coin shaped piece on the asphalt below the truck door. I picked that up and stuck it back in the broken key. As long as the coin shaped piece was held in the broken key by hand, the truck would start. Once the truck was started, it would keep running even if you put the coin shaped piece in the console tray.
I already knew that a locksmith would charge well over $100 to reproduce a set of working keys compatable with the truck anti-theift ignition. Since the broken key would start the truck if the coin shaped anti-theift device was held in place, there was no reason to give a locksmith $100 or get out the extra keys for the truck. I had a couple of JB Weld epoxy sets in my tool box. When I got back home, I cleaned all the broken, deteriorated plastic off the bare key. Roughed up the key some with course sand paper to help the JB Weld hold. I put the coin shaped piece back in the round hole it came out of. Tried it in the truck to be sure it would start the truck. It did, so I completely covered the key, with the anti-theift coin device back in place, with JB Weld. First covering was a little messy looking due to having to be smeared on. I let that cure for 48 hours. Then sanded the JB Weld down smooth and re-shaped the edges to a smooth finish. Tried the repaired key in the truck, and it worked. I put one more thinner coat of JB Weld on the key to make it stronger. After it cured, I sanded that down smooth, drilled a hole in the top that would miss the anti-theift device, and painted it black.
The key repaired with JB Weld is stronger than the original plastic truck keys. Still using the repaired key, years later, and it works fine every time. It cost about $4 worth of JB Weld to fix the key instead of > $100 to a locksmith. The only difference in the repaired key and the original is the lack of the brand logo on it, and that has nothing to do with the way it works.
Exactly what I would have done I have DESS disabled on my Spyder so that little item isn't an issue any longer.
Last edited by Gekko; 04-15-2024 at 07:22 PM.
Reason: Added links.
Gekko (Larry)
2019 Spyder RT SE6
BRP Driver Backrest [219400679]
Can-Am Spyder RT Magnetic Side View Mirror Mounting System (2010-19) [SM-4018, TAC Designs at SlingMods.com]
Centramatic Wheel Balancers [MCAS400-410]
Grab On Grips Grip Covers [FBA_MC402]
Hopnel Cargo Organizer Nets For Can-Am Spyder RT [41-156]
Hopnel Four Piece Luggage Set For Can Am Spyder RT [HCTL + HCSL]
Marinco Power Products Pro Receptacle (in frunk) [12VRCTT.OEM]
AmazonBasics Dual-Port USB Car Charger Adapter [CLA-2U5480_white]
RAM 1" Ball Compatible Dash Mount (Black Powder Coated) [RT-RAM3]
Various RAM mount components, phone mount, camera mount...
2019 Can-Am Spyder RT / RT Limited Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection [Best Shop Manuals 180317]
Show Chrome 41-180 Shorty Antenna
I swallow the key and regurgitate when needed. No key ring needed. Tried to get on with the circus but couldn’t multi task and swallow fire like they wanted. So I stick to my usual routine.
That’s what she said
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Here is a side/side of the MetalMan key holder and the one carried by Slingmods. The Slingmods key holder allows you to carry extra keys that won’t make contact with the dash cover. I like it better. Just some FYI …
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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If you have a 3-D printer I have a key holder you can print. Print 2 halves, place the key into 1 half then glue the other half over the top to lock the key in. Printing in ABS works well as you can use Acetone as the glue and there's no damage to the key itself.