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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-04-2024 at 04:58 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Member
Well Clay I think they finally fixed it. They replaced the Windshield Control Module and it's been 3 weeks with no recurrence. The last code they pulled was "U0128 - Lost Communication with Park Brake Control Module (PBCM)". It seems the Windshield Control Module was faulty and it's apparently on the same line as the Park Brake Control Module. The bike thought the parking brake was on, and so wouldn't allow me to do anything but shift down.
2019 RT Limited running a Stage 2 from Monster EFI
Baja Ron sway bar
RLS Crusher exhaust
Semi Custom wrap
Ultimate seat
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Thanks RTWolfie. Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a cheap solution.
I've only had one instance of failure to shift-up in the last 10 months and 5,000 miles, and it self corrected after 30 seconds. I'm hoping it's gone or become so infrequent that I just won't have to deal with it again. But it's good to know it's an option if it does come back.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ClayJ
After my last post, I had about 6 months where the problem never occurred. I rode probably 5,000 miles in that time. Then last week I towed the bike down to Arizona (from Colorado) to get a few good rides in. On one of the rides, I pulled onto the highway and felt the dreaded dry shift. Pushed 3 or 4 times and it finally shifted. I did the entire 400 mile ride without any issues.
Later in the week it occurred again on a short ride, and it wouldn't come back. I shut the bike off, waited 15 minutes, and it started and shifted just fine, so I did my ride.
In all my problems, I have never been stranded by the bike. It's annoying to have to sit for 15 to 20 minutes, but the shift has always come back to life and let me complete the ride.
Reading through the other posts, I don't see anyone who's reported back after a long time indicating the problem was fixed. Of course, I'd have thought mine was fixed until it wasn't. I have not disconnected my brake light flasher. Maybe I'll try that.
Photo from my Arizona ride.
Just a quick question, by any chance when this DRY SHIFT happens where you going into or shifting out of a shape curve, on ramp, ect? because if you were, it may be a case of your Nanny telling you to behave yourself! I think there's a setting in there that they can adjust to lessen that from happening!
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No, there is no specific ride conditions associated with the problem (for me). The majority of the time this happens in the first 10 minutes of my ride, so low speeds, city streets. Often just shifting reverse to 1st after backing out of the garage. Only a few times have I had it happen hours into a ride.
Turning the bike off and waiting 15 minutes or more has always recovered the bike so I've never been stranded anywhere.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-02-2024 at 11:28 AM.
Reason: garate... ;-)
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It happened again today. After 2 hours on the road, I stopped at a scenic overlook. When I got back on the bike, it wouldn't shift. It's been 4 months since I last had a problem...
It's annoying as all get out, but I still don't think I can justify $500 on the hope that it fixes the problem!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-18-2024 at 04:06 PM.
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I finally got it to fail and stay broken. I was on a long ride round Colorado this week. After stopping at the Wolf Creek Pass overlook, it wouldn't shift up for about 45 minutes but eventually it worked again (like it always does). We finished the days ride over cottonwood pass and into Leadville.
But when we were going to leave for dinner, no shifty. After dinner (yes I rode on the back of someone's bike) it hadn't started working again. Next morning, the same.
I sent everyone else on and called my wife to hitch up my trailer and come get me. (only 3 hrs from home).
I keep checking every so often and it continues to stay broken. As I told my friends, I'm almost glad because now I can finally get it into a shop and the mechanic won't look at me like I'm an idiot and it will get fixed.
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SEEMS TO REALLY BE FIXED FINALLY
Back in July, the bike completely stopped shifting up. I called the shop but they couldn't get it in for 2 weeks. Every day I'd go start the bike and try to shift into 1st but it never would so I was hoping it would stay broken for the mechanic.
I finally took it into the shop and it was still broken so I demoed it for the service rep who agreed I wasn't doing anything wrong. I asked if a tech could look at it right away and she assured me it would be seen within a day or two....... THREE WEEKS LATER a tech called me to say the bike was running and shifting just fine. He asked if I remembered to push the brake when shifting out of neutral . . . . OH MY HECK!!!.... Yeah, I've put 30,000 miles on the bike and don't know how to shift.
After I calmed down, we got the service rep who confirmed that the bike really had been broken when I brought it in so he started to take me seriously. After some more diagnosis and a long conversation with BRP, he called to recommend that I change the handlebar control. He had disassembled it and found nothing wrong but that's all they could think of that might solve my problem.
It's really hard to spend $1,200 when the rep says "I hope this fixes it, but if it doesn't we won't give your money back". It was my call.
I told them to do it.
It's now been 2 weeks and I've put over 2000 miles on the bike with no shifting problems. I really really hope that's the end.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by ClayJ
It's really hard to spend $1,200 when the rep says "I hope this fixes it, but if it doesn't we won't give your money back".
That's odd. With BUDS the switches can be easily tested with no disassembly or even removing from the motorcycle.
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Spyder RSS
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Originally Posted by DickB
That's odd. With BUDS the switches can be easily tested with no disassembly or even removing from the motorcycle.
The problem is that the shifting issue was intermittent and random. There was no way to make it happen on demand.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ClayJ
The problem is that the shifting issue was intermittent and random. There was no way to make it happen on demand.
Here's the thing about Computers (including the ones in the Spyder) - Everything that is in the computer remains in the computer; and so, can be retrieved! The Tech should contact BRP and find out how to do it ..... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-06-2024 at 11:23 PM.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Here's the thing about Computers (including the ones in the Spyder) - Everything that is in the computer remains in the computer; and so, can be retrieved! The Tech should contact BRP and find out how to do it ..... Mike
I'm not sure why you're so bothered by this but here goes.
Quite a few times when the bike would stop shifting, I'd go into the display and navigate down to the "Codes" page but it was always empty. I never got an answer whether ALL codes get displayed or just some.
I took the bike in twice before and they "cleaned" the controls, whatever that means. But the problem persisted.
This time they switched the entire control and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. It's hard to argue with success.
As for your statement about computers keeping everything, I have no words to describe how wrong that is. You kind of struck a nerve. I've been a software engineer since 1985 and have spent thousands of hours writing diagnostic code in embedded systems for companies like Tektronix and Fluke. Getting computers to log, save, and regurgitate diagnostic info doesn't automagically happen. And don't get me started on short sighted penny pinching executives who refuse to authorize the time needed to do it right. Features sell products, diagnostics don't and guess which one they'll fund at the expense of the other. But I'm not bitter.
If what you meant to say was "Automotive computers are supposed to log and save all exception events" then I'll agree with you.
As for a hardware failure, it depends on the hardware design. It's cheap and easy to use an open/close switch for signaling but you can't diagnose a fault. It's more expensive and complex to use a resistance level switch which lets you detect shorts or breaks in the system. Most companies have gone the cheap route where they put an exposed grid on a circuit board, then form a rubber bubble over it suspending a conductive pad. So pushing down on the bubble brings the pad in contact with the grid and closes the circuit. Very cheap but nearly impossible to diagnose problems via computer.
According to this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFoFIGbpcCI
it seems Can-Am took the grid/pad route.
But all this aside, all I care about is that my bike works and won't strand me in the middle of Colorado with no cell service... again!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-07-2024 at 11:04 PM.
Reason: Exposed hidden URL's to minimise risk of potential spams/scams...
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Very Active Member
Glad you got to the bottom of that Gremlin!
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