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My Spyder is dead & won't start (as in nothing!) Any Thoughts?
When I go thru the starting process and hit the start button, all I hear is the injectors, nothing else. Like most posts about this problem, it is intermittent. When it starts, it runs great. The dash lights up like normal with both sweeps; the dash does not dim when I hit the start button. Any thoughts? I am going to clean the starter switch first. I thought about using a remote starter button to the relay to see if it would start. Another thought I had is that maybe there's a dead spot in the starter motor. My Spyder is a 2010 RSS SE5, so you can't bump start it.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2024 at 02:58 AM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question/s... ;-)
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Very Active Member
First, please check & tighten the Battery connections. Add some star washers. It helps that the dash does not dim However, that might still not be enough. Load test the battery & give it a good deep overnight slow charge. (You don’t wanna tear into the switches 'til further down the line & you have spares.)
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2024 at 03:00 AM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Very Active Member
Start there first.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2024 at 06:17 AM.
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It's a brand-new battery, fully charged. It came with 2 brass washers, which I used, and is kept on a battery tender. Old battery was 8 years old. The only thing I haven't done is to check the ground where it connects to the frame; on my previous spyder, it was on the opposite side to the battery.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2024 at 12:01 PM.
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Very Active Member
Please, don't take this the wrong way, but if I were you, I would have that thing load tested, no matter how old it is! That way, you have a base line to start the project! If you thumb through some of the past threads on here, where people start out saying the same thing as you, only to find that in the end, the battery was no go.
So start with the dirty, loose connections; then load test, it may save you some time and heart burn.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-19-2024 at 07:19 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mikey
Please, don't take this the wrong way, but if I were you, I would have that thing load tested, no matter how old it is! That way, you have a base line to start the project! If you thumb through some of the past threads on here, where people start out saying the same thing as you, only to find that in the end, the battery was no go.
So start with the dirty, loose connections; then load test, it may save you some time and heart burn.
...NEW means un-used (hopefully) ....However, it doesn't guarantee it was properly charged or there isn't a short ..... I wouldn't do anything with the ground, BRP made it difficult to adjust (as many here have discovered). STAR washers are your friend .... and the V-twin " Charging system " is marginal at best ..... That's why they changed it with the 1330 engine system .... good luck ....Mike
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made them load test the battery before it left the store, then put it on a charger for a overnight charge. nothing would surprise me though. the bike is doing the same thing now as it was with the old battery.
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Very Active Member
If the battery test out, then I would start at the switch and make sure it's making contact with the solenoid. And work it back that way! Good luck, electrical gremlins suck!
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Very Active Member
Double check kill switch in run position
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
-
I may have found the gremlin, I'll let you know.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-23-2024 at 07:57 AM.
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OK, here is where the problem is... The dash Mode button isn't working, I have to use the one by the shifter on the left side of the handlebar.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-23-2024 at 07:56 AM.
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Very Active Member
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-23-2024 at 01:53 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by foxhunter
When I go thru the starting process and hit the start button, all I hear is the injectors, nothing else. Like most posts about this problem, it is intermittent. When it starts, it runs great. The dash lights up like normal with both sweeps; the dash does not dim when I hit the start button. Any thoughts? I am going to clean the starter switch first. I thought about using a remote starter button to the relay to see if it would start. Another thought I had is that maybe there's a dead spot in the starter motor. My Spyder is a 2010 RSS SE5, so you can't bump start it.
Any thoughts?
Originally Posted by foxhunter
OK, here is where the problem is... The dash Mode button isn't working, I have to use the one by the shifter on the left side of the handlebar.
Ok, glad you found the problem but, confused how you saw the dash do the sweeps?? (To my understanding, that won’t happen unless Mode is pushed?!)
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-23-2024 at 07:26 PM.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
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Very Active Member
Didn't know that the newer rides have more than one mode button. Cool!!!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mikey
Didn't know that the newer rides have more than one mode button. Cool!!!
It's a 2010
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by EdMat
It's a 2010
I don't remember my 2010 having two "mode" buttons or one on the dash.
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Very Active Member
There is one on the dash and one on the handlebars. Most are shown one or the other and never realize there are two.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by EdMat
It's a 2010
Sorry!!!
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Tried to do a search for a new dash mode button, no luck so far. Like most, I didn't know there were 2 mode buttons, just happened to see it in a video and took a look and there it was. Now to tackle the brake issue. Pretty sure there is air in the lines as I am getting a brake failure warning, but the brakes work fine. Previous owner said he had it to the Lubbock dealer and the mechanic's solution was to disconnect the sensor, bad idea. I am surprised there's been no NTSB Recall on the Spyder for all the brake issues.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-25-2024 at 02:10 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by foxhunter
Tried to do a search for a new dash mode button, no luck so far. Like most, I didn't know there were 2 mode buttons, just happened to see it in a video and took a look and there it was. Now to tackle the brake issue. Pretty sure there is air in the lines as I am getting a brake failure warning, but the brakes work fine. Previous owner said he had it to the Lubbock dealer and the mechanic's solution was to disconnect the sensor, bad idea. I am surprised there's been no NTSB Recall on the Spyder for all the brake issues.
From past experience before you go down that FIX-IT ROAD .... I would add a couple tablespoons of brake fluid and see if that removes the warning ..... The BRP brake system is uber sensitive to the amount of fluid that is in it .....Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-25-2024 at 04:48 PM.
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