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Cooling Fans blowing air forwards when stopped - I never knew....
While doing the 10 minute idle to check my oil yesterday the cooling fans kicked on. I was standing in front of the bike and thought it was strange that the fans were blowing air forward. So, today I looked at the service manual and it stated:
NOTE: When the engine is running and the vehicle stopped or traveling at low speed, the radiator fans push air towards the front of the vehicle. When the vehicle is traveling at higher speed the fans push the air towards the back of the vehicle.
I never knew....
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-02-2024 at 01:11 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly state the reason for this thread! ;-)
2021 RTL Chrome, Chalk White
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Due to many complaints by riders of the intense heat blowing on your right leg, BRP made the change to the 2014 model year with the inception of the 1330 engine. My 2012 RTL had so much heat blowing on my right leg while at a stop that I had to move my leg out of the air flow. It also caused the trike to get extremely hot in the rider area. This reverse fan eliminated those issues.
Current: 2022 RTL SE6 Red Marsala and 2012 622 Trailer Lava Bronze,
Previous: 2014 RTL SE6 Black Currant - 58,746 miles,
2012 RTL SE5 Lava Bronze - 19,675 miles
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Originally Posted by agrimm01
While doing the 10 minute idle to check my oil yesterday the cooling fans kicked on. I was standing in front of the bike and thought it was strange that the fans were blowing air forward. So, today I looked at the service manual and it stated:
NOTE: When the engine is running and the vehicle stopped or traveling at low speed, the radiator fans push air towards the front of the vehicle. When the vehicle is traveling at higher speed the fans push the air towards the back of the vehicle.
I never knew....
Long Island answered your question ..... my Question to you is .... Why are you doing the 10 minute warm-up before you check the oil ???? .... First, 10 minutes won't warm up the oil ENOUGH ...... Second - it wastes gas, time etc. .... Just check the oil After YOU COME BACK FROM A NORMAL RIDE .... Unless you have a leak that creates a large puddle of oil; under your Spyder, the level of the oil won't have changed from last time you checked n( even if that was a month or year ago ) ..... I have NEVER had to add oil ( between changes on my 2014 RT that has the 1330 engine ( you also have this engine ) .... Mike
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Long Island answered your question ..... my Question to you is .... Why are you doing the 10 minute warm-up before you check the oil ???? .... First, 10 minutes won't warm up the oil ENOUGH ...... Second - it wastes gas, time etc. .... Just check the oil After YOU COME BACK FROM A NORMAL RIDE .... Unless you have a leak that creates a large puddle of oil; under your Spyder, the level of the oil won't have changed from last time you checked n( even if that was a month or year ago ) ..... I have NEVER had to add oil ( between changes on my 2014 RT that has the 1330 engine ( you also have this engine ) .... Mike
I didn't have a question, it was an observation. Since this was the first time for me to do the oil change I followed the instructions as spelled out in the owners manual. ride for 9 miles, idle for 10 minutes, shut off and check oil level within 2 minutes. Thanks
2021 RTL Chrome, Chalk White
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Originally Posted by agrimm01
I didn't have a question, it was an observation. Since this was the first time for me to do the oil change I followed the instructions as spelled out in the owners manual. ride for 9 miles, idle for 10 minutes, shut off and check oil level within 2 minutes. Thanks
Mike's advice is actually good. Though I fully understand you're wanting to follow the owners manual. But the fact is, the idle part is not necessary, nor is it great for the motor. Not sure why the manual says to do that. As long as the oil (not the coolant) is at operating temp and you're on level ground, you're good to go.
Try this. (Just a friendly suggestion) Check your oil level before and after your 10 minute idle phase. You'll find the reading to be identical. Then you can make an informed decision as to whether you want to continue with the manual's instructions.
Have a Great New Year!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by LongIsland
Due to many complaints by riders of the intense heat blowing on your right leg, BRP made the change to the 2014 model year with the inception of the 1330 engine. My 2012 RTL had so much heat blowing on my right leg while at a stop that I had to move my leg out of the air flow. It also caused the trike to get extremely hot in the rider area. This reverse fan eliminated those issues.
My 2015 F3S does NOT run the fans inverse at a standstill... Must be an "RT" thing...
Last edited by hypurone; 01-02-2024 at 12:28 PM.
'15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
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2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
...... .... Unless you have a leak that creates a large puddle of oil; under your Spyder, the level of the oil won't have changed from last time you checked n( even if that was a month or year ago ) ..... I have NEVER had to add oil ( between changes on my 2014 RT that has the 1330 engine ( you also have this engine ) .... Mike
You could be burning oil with no leak... just sayin'
Originally Posted by hypurone
My 2015 F3S does NOT run the fans inverse at a standstill... Must be an "RT" thing...
I'll have to check this as well. I'm not sure of the cooling fan locations on current RT models, but the current F3-S has them facing out to the side, so reversing them would mean having push air back out the front grill. I can't image this being effective. Perhaps out to the side doesn't blow air over the riders like like those with radiators facing front to back?
What do I know though, I've got 20 miles on my Spyder and its down for the winter...
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by broderp
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
...... .... Unless you have a leak that creates a large puddle of oil; under your Spyder, the level of the oil won't have changed from last time you checked n( even if that was a month or year ago ) ..... I have NEVER had to add oil ( between changes on my 2014 RT that has the 1330 engine ( you also have this engine ) .... Mike
You could be burning oil with no leak... just sayin'
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True, your engine could be burning oil & not leaking it out anywhere, but then you'd notice that when you checked the oil level AFTER your ride, wouldn't you...
If you check the oil after a ride and then don't run the engine (much) until you go to ride your Spyder next, your engine hasn't run so it CAN'T have burnt too much oil anyway, can it!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-03-2024 at 04:56 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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I wonder how the dealers check the oil level after an oil change? I can't imagine they go and ride for x-minutes and then let it idle for y-minutes?
Perhaps they just idle for a few minutes to warm the oil, drain it, and then add the wet fill service amount? I cannot see BRP having their techs go out in whatever weather to get the oil warmed up in order to check the level after service.
I always wondered this. Perhaps I'll ask the tech next time I get it done.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-03-2024 at 09:35 PM.
Reason: i ... ;-)
Can Am Syder RT Limited (2021)
Triumph Bonneville T120 (2018)
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-03-2024 at 09:36 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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Originally Posted by mecsw500
Perhaps they just idle for a few minutes to warm the oil, drain it, and then add the wet fill service amount?
Many dealers do it cold so they don't risk getting their fingers hot. I think that's why many want to keep it a day before they change it.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Mike's advice is actually good. Though I fully understand you're wanting to follow the owners manual. But the fact is, the idle part is not necessary, nor is it great for the motor. Not sure why the manual says to do that. As long as the oil (not the coolant) is at operating temp and you're on level ground, you're good to go.
Try this. (Just a friendly suggestion) Check your oil level before and after your 10 minute idle phase. You'll find the reading to be identical. Then you can make an informed decision as to whether you want to continue with the manual's instructions.
Have a Great New Year!
Agrimm01 is just going by the manual . I've done the same thing. I thought it was ridiculous, and probably is.
Retired U.S. Coast Guard 76-97
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