Will using the Position #3 brake rod in Position #4 lower the brake pedal?
I have searched the forum and didn't see this exact option brought up yet.
Most of us agree the brake pedal position is too high.
My F3 Limited is configured in position #3.
I want to move to position #4.
If I move to position #4 with the position #3 brake rod will it lower my pedal and still be fully functional? or should I order the position #4 lowering bar from Lamonster?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-22-2023 at 07:12 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
I toyed between position 3 and 4. Made a separate rod.
In the end I settled for the bought online adjustable one.
That way I can adjust the brake pedal to where I want it.
Also I can shorten it up for when the Wife wants to ride it.
ExRocket is close, Cdn. If you move your footboard to position 4, the #3 rod will probably reach the brake bolt, but the brake pedal will be pulled so far down that it will be the same height as the board.
You would be better served leaving your board where it is at position 3 (if that is comfortable), and buying either Lamonster’s position 3, brake pedal pad lowering rod, or the adjustable one that Iso mentions above.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8” clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Thank you all for the clear and concise answers. I want position #4 for my inseam and comfort. It was set up for my dad's height when he bought it but now that I have inherited it I want to make it my own. Just didn't want to buy a position #4 lowering bar if the stock #3 is the same or length or similar to the Lamonster #4. I will be placing my order for bar this evening.
My 2nd photo shows the difference between the stock 3 and my longer home made position 4.
Reckon your going the right way with the adjustable.
You can adjust the pedal to just where you want it, but make sure you have enough gap to push downwards to fully apply the picks.
I ended up with it quite high...I can slip my boot under the grip pad with just a little comfort room.
FWIW On every ride I to a brake test and ensure the ABS is working real early on.
Thats after of course I have a good look around mostly behind me.
These things stop on a sixpence at 50 odd kph or 30mph.
My 2nd photo shows the difference between the stock 3 and my longer home made position 4.
Reckon your going the right way with the adjustable.
You can adjust the pedal to just where you want it, but make sure you have enough gap to push downwards to fully apply the picks.
I ended up with it quite high...I can slip my boot under the grip pad with just a little comfort room.
FWIW On every ride I to a brake test and ensure the ABS is working real early on.
Thats after of course I have a good look around mostly behind me. These things stop on a sixpence at 50 odd kph or 30mph.
Once you fit a set of 'real' tires, they'll also do that from speeds that will not be disclosed by me beyond saying they were 'somewhat in excess of 110+ kph/70+ mph' if you stomp on the pedal hard enough!
Admittedly, mine's an RT & not an F3, but the brakes & braking dynamics are essentially the same. I have the shattered visor from my helmet, a scarred top lip, & the 'occasionally still aching' front teeth that almost got knocked out when I smacked the top of the windscreen with my helmet/head/face to attest to their high-speed stopping ability!
Ps: Doing that 'Brake/ABS test' early on in every ride is good value & highly recommended!
These seem to work fine for me Peter, specially that M+S on the rear.
....
Yeah, they should do. I've run the same tires myself, albeit slightly different sizes. Great handling, predictably straight 'Hand of God' stopping!
That "once you fit a set of 'real' tires" in my post wasn't an adverse comment about your choice of tires, it was more directed towards those who haven't yet swapped out their Kendas - every set of those things that I've tried were basically scary enough going forwards at speed, and simply terrifying under 'panic braking' stops, even on a skid pan where there wasn't anything much to worry about!! The Forum Rules mean that I'm not allowed to use any of the words I'd like to use about them & their behaviour when describing their stopping performance from any substantial speed, but I will admit that once I got up to about 100kph/60mp-ish stops with the Kendas (& I wasn't game to try any faster ) pretty much any hard braking attempt, let alone panic braking with them fitted simply served to confirm conclusively to me that adrenalin truly IS brown, liquid, & smelly!!
When you run a tire that isn't designed for the Spyder what kind of pressure do you inflate to?
I am thinking a tire not specifically designed for the low pressures we run would be problematic....wouldn't it?
When you run a tire that isn't designed for the Spyder what kind of pressure do you inflate to?
I am thinking a tire not specifically designed for the low pressures we run would be problematic....wouldn't it?
There is A LOT of info already on the Forum discussing tire pressures, so a bit of searching and some time spent reading that is probably worth your while. Still, at the risk of going off topic for a (relatively ) short while....
It's the OEM Kenda tires that NEED the higher pressures as stated on the Spyder/Ryker Tire placards, which IIRC are something like 18+ psi up front & 28 psi in the rear. While they are really just another 'auto tire' designed to be run on normal 'car type rims with standard 'J' type auto bead profiles (rather than the bead profiles mandated for Motorcycle tires & rims in order to keep said Motorcycle tires on the Motorcycle rims they're fitted to while leaning at far greater angles than are even possible in a car! ) they NEED this higher level of pressure because the OEM Kenda tires have such lightweight construction - not only less 'rubber' but also thinner/lighter denier 'thread' in the plies.... Apparently, as part of the design brief these pressures & the 'lighter auto tires' were specified in order to be sufficient to carry the significantly lighter load of a Spyder while bringing the Spyder's 'normal operating tire pressure' closer to that most people generally recognize as 'usual tire pressures' for their car, a vehicle that's possibly up to 3 times heavier than your Spyder/Ryker And that's not even mentioning/considering the poorer quality control & increased incidence of construction issues/out of round problems etc. in the Kendas either! So it's pretty important that you run the OEM Kendas at or near the Tire Placard Pressures!
However, 'normal' auto tires are constructed somewhat stronger/heavier than the Kendas are, in order to be capable of carrying the heavier load of most cars/auto's at the sorts of pressures indicated; but that doesn't mean they aren't capable of carrying a lighter load, they just don't need/want as much air pressure in them to do so safely - in fact, by International Agreement & supporting legislation in most countries around the World, they are REQUIRED to be able to safely carry lighter loads at lower pressures than their specified max load/max pressure! And if you fit a 'normal' auto tire onto your Spyder/Ryker and then run it at the same sort of pressure as that specified for the lightweight Kendas, then your 'normal' car tire will be GROSSLY OVER-inflated for use on the Spyder/Ryker and you'll be compromising your tire's wear, traction, safety, and a bunch of other things besides!!
All of which boils down to mean that if you run a 'normal' (stronger/heavier constructed) car tire on your Spyder/Ryker, especially on the rear, then because that car tire's been constructed strongly enough to be capable of carrying anything UP TO a much higher load, it simply does not need to run at 28 psi to carry a load 1/2 or maybe even 1/3 of that! The car tire is stronger, has heavier/thicker tread/sidewalls, & even at lower pressure it will be more rigid than the Kenda; so unless you want to experience a tooth rattling ride thru running an over-inflated steel hard tire that's simply waaay over-inflated for the load it's carrying & far too hard for optimum traction et al, then a car tire on a Spyder/Ryker needs to run at a somewhat LOWER pressure than that necessary in the Kendas to carry the lighter load of your Spyder/Ryker; and that lower pressure needs to be low enough that it will allow the tire to flex sufficiently in order to generate the heat required to bring the tread up to its ideal operating temperature and so provide optimal traction, ride, handling, puncture resistance, and more!!
It's the Kendas that NEED the HIGH pressure; normal car tires fitted to a Spyder/Ryker NEED to run somewhat LOWER pressures to carry the lighter load than their maximum design capability - but they are designed and constructed to do just that!! So unless you are very heavy/your Spyder/Ryker is always loaded in excess of its recommended max load, then about 16-18 psi all round is a good place to start for most; while riding 2-up, carrying heavy loads, long runs, high speed riding, &/or high ambient temperatures might possibly warrant adding maybe as much as 2psi more; and riding solo, lighter loads, shorter runs, slower riding, &/or colder ambient temperatures might possibly warrant running maybe juuust a little lower!
Nb: Personally, in the normal course of events, I wouldn't ever intentionally ride too far with anything much less than 14 psi in any of my Spyder's tires - but there might be the odd occasion where, for a short while, a lower pressure becomes appropriate if not necessary in order to provide sufficient flotation/traction on the surface being ridden on.
Now, let's get back to the topic of THIS thread - Brake Rod Lengths
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-25-2023 at 11:52 AM.
Keep in mind that if you are currently using a #3 rod, then Lamonster's #3 rod will lower the pedal substantially. His rods are made to lower the brake pedal using the same floorboard position.
I learned this the hard way. Can-Am's "Ufit" is not as flexible as they make it seem. If your pegs are comfortable at position 3 then using any rod other than the position 3 one will not work. Pedal height is NOT adjustable and is fixed at the 45-60 degree angle with their parts.
I ride at position 3. I bought a position 2 rod to try and lower my pedal. Well it sure did. The pedal was so low it was not usable.
The images attached show the size of the two rods and the position the shorter rod puts the pedal in.
Time to buy the adjustable one...
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
If you buy a #3 rod from Lamonster Garage it will lower your brake pedal a little bit. That would be the best you could do.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
He also has comments disabled on most or all of his videos. This does not instill any confidence with a seller or reviewer if they are not willing to entertain a few questions or suggestions from their customers.
My search continues...
Last edited by broderp; 12-10-2023 at 01:37 PM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Yes I saw the disclaimer and was surprised by it. Whether you have pegs or floorboards shouldn't make any difference. I would call Lamonster Garage next week and clarify.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
He also has comments disabled on most or all of his videos. This does not instill any confidence with a seller or reviewer if they are not willing to entertain a few questions or suggestions from their customers.
My search continues...
This is a very odd claim. If you call or email Lamonster, they will gladly answer any questions and take any suggestions, Broderp. They don’t have the staff to be constantly monitoring random YouTube feedback on the dozens of videos they have out there. Their level of customer support is excellent, and is why they have instilled significant confidence in those who have actually communicated with them. Give it a try
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8” clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Yes I saw the disclaimer and was surprised by it. Whether you have pegs or floorboards shouldn't make any difference. I would call Lamonster Garage next week and clarify.
Originally Posted by Peteoz
This is a very odd claim. If you call or email Lamonster, they will gladly answer any questions and take any suggestions, Broderp. They don’t have the staff to be constantly monitoring random YouTube feedback on the dozens of videos they have out there. Their level of customer support is excellent, and is why they have instilled significant confidence in those who have actually communicated with them. Give it a try
Pete
My real concern (I know it will physically mount on any Spyder, floorboard or peg) is what they are NOT saying. I get the feeling they may believe there is some liability if they were to claim it works on a Spyder's with pegs. He clearly stated they didn't make an adjustable one for just that reason, liability. My only other option is $130 for a fully adjustable one.
I'm not in a huge rush as this is a 5 minute install, and my riding season never started. My ONLY ride was from the dealer to my house, so 19 miles. I'll give them a call this week and see what's up. Thanks!
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
Once you get it where you want it, you'll never mess with it again, right? Find yourself someone that welds and will work with you, get the thing where you want it height wise, measure the length and make a rod. You could take your rod now and add a piece or shorten it, take the ends off and get a piece of rod and weld them on. Heck, come to Maine and I'll make you one!
Once you get it where you want it, you'll never mess with it again, right? Find yourself someone that welds and will work with you, get the thing where you want it height wise, measure the length and make a rod. You could take your rod now and add a piece or shorten it, take the ends off and get a piece of rod and weld them on. Heck, come to Maine and I'll make you one!
Maine's not that far and would make a fun ride.....
Seriously though, I thought about creating one like my motorcycles shift linkage. It has an adjusting nut in the center. Loosen the jam nuts and turn it CW or CCW to lengthen or shorten the linkage. This way the adjustment can be made without removing the linkage on either end.
Or something like this: (just larger, beefier and with the proper ends on it)
Maine's not that far and would make a fun ride.....
Seriously though, I thought about creating one like my motorcycles shift linkage. It has an adjusting nut in the center. Loosen the jam nuts and turn it CW or CCW to lengthen or shorten the linkage. This way the adjustment can be made without removing the linkage on either end.
Or something like this: (just larger, beefier and with the proper ends on it)
Quick update- I tried to call Lamonster 3 times today but they don't answer. They still have their "we will be closed until January 2nd" voice mail responding.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-03-2024 at 06:09 PM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
Mine has foot boards installed, but the location is fully forward, a bit of a stretch for me. LOL
I'm thinking of just making some adjustable links with aluminum linkage rods and stainless clevis ends.
Would 5/16" or 8mm threaded ends be sufficiently strong for this application?
Will using the Position #3 brake rod in Position #4 lower the brake pedal?
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Originally Posted by Isopedella
) pretty much any hard braking attempt, let alone panic braking with them fitted simply served to confirm conclusively to me that adrenalin truly IS brown, liquid, & smelly!! 
Still, at the risk of going off topic for a (relatively 
So it's pretty important that you run the OEM Kendas at or near the Tire Placard Pressures! 
)
2020 F3 Ltd
