Would appreciate any advice on Spyder General Maintenance Costs?

[Pablo777]

Hey Folks,
I’m retired and we’re thinking about downsizing to one primary vehicle (SUV). I’m not interested in touring or long road trips. Local travel to work, errands, etc. a GS or RS (or similar). I’ve been told that annual maintenance costs would be more than my current full-size Toyota P/U. I can’t see that based on what I know generally about motorcycle maintenance. Am I missing something? Would appreciate any advice before I buy.

Many thanks!

[BajaRon]

Hey Folks,
I’m retired and we’re thinking about downsizing to one primary vehicle (SUV). I’m not interested in touring or long road trips. Local travel to work, errands, etc. a GS or RS (or similar). I’ve been told that annual maintenance costs would be more than my current full-size Toyota P/U. I can’t see that based on what I know generally about motorcycle maintenance. Am I missing something? Would appreciate any advice before I buy.

Many thanks!

If you take it to a dealer and have them do everything. Then costs can be high. If you do the work yourself, a Spyder can be very reasonable to maintain.

[Pablo777]

BajaRon,
Many thanks! Could you put a VERY general $$ annually for ROUTINE maintenance. Spitball.

Thanks so much.

[Pablo777]

I think I found an answer that is good enough for me. Not withstanding some type of extended warranty this might be a good GENERAL rule of thumb that works for my general info:

Average miles ridden in a year = 12000
Thats 1 valve adjustment at 1200
4 oil changes at 240.00
2160.00 in scheduled maintenance for 1 year, not including air filter, bearings, etc that BRP requires.


Going back to the Harley Davidson models to see if I want to keep my P/U��

[Wmoater]

Where did you get this information? Oil is changed every 10,000 miles if Amsoil is used or around 6000 with BRP. So only 2 times a year for 12000 miles at most $300 if you do it yourself and buy a case load. No way do your valves need adjusted! Not sure who told you that? Air filter is reused if less than 12000 or get a lifetime one for under $100. Never had a bearing replaced but rear one at 75000 miles. BRP has no requirements except at the 28000 and so forth.

[BigPoppa]

... No way does your valves need adjusted! Not sure who told you that? ...

I thought the older 998cc engines did require periodic valve adjustments and only the newer 1330cc motors use hydraulic valve adjusters. I could very well be wrong though...just what I thought I remembered reading somewhere.

[BajaRon]

It does depend on which engine model your Spyder has. 998 V-Twin or 1330 ACE. But in either case, valve adjustments are rarely needed. Regardless of mileage. You can delete that off your list.

Oil service on the 998 should be at 4,500 miles if using BRP or blended oil. It will easily go 6,500 on a full synthetic lubricant.

The 1330 will go 9,300 miles on BRP blended oil (according to BRP). But will do much better with a full synthetic. We recommend 10k on Amsoil.

Rear tire every 10k (on average) Front tires every 25k~30k is a good estimate.

Brakes should go 15k~20k. But some find ways to go a lot further, and a few get much less.

Very few put 12k a year on their Spyder. Some do much more than that.

These are the predictable expenses. There is always the chance of unexpected issues which can run the gambit. But are outliers for most of us.

Typically, FARKLES will cost you more than maintenance. And FARKLE costs are completely manageable, depending on your level of self control. Most of us just throw caution (and budget) to the wind because FARKLES are so much FUN!

[Wmoater]

I thought the older 998cc engines did require periodic valve adjustments and only the newer 1330cc motors use hydraulic valve adjusters. I could very well be wrong though...just what I thought I remembered reading somewhere.

You might be right. I didn’t think it was a yearly thing but maybe it was. I was thinking the old 998 was more than yearly depending on storage conditions but I am probably wrong as in adjusting valves. I know Paula has only had it once and she’s got a heck of a lot of miles on here’s since she bought the bumblebee 4 years ago used. I know they had to add oil because it burnt some but was still 6000+ rated with Amsoil I thought. Bearing, tires and brakes are the same wear as the 1330.

I see Ron just answered my 6000 mile oil change assumption along with the valve assumption. Don’t quote me but Paula has close to 40000 miles in the last 4 years and only had valves done once at the beginning, but also had plugs and overall done too. It was rough running after sitting a while.

[JayBros]

Pablo, I think you may have some of us confused with your rather broad model examples, GS or RS (or similar) that you may be considering as your errand vehicle. The main ingredient in those two models is the V-twin engine with manual or semi-automatic 5-speed transmission. You could include the ST model because it has a similar engine/transmission. The GS model was produced in MYs 2008-09, and the RS during MYs 2010-16. BRP introduced the 1330 cc 3-cylinder, 6-speed transmission engine in MY 2014 and discontinued the V-twin, 5-speed transmission engine at the end of MY 2016. The main differences between the V-twin and 3-cylinder engines are, the V-Ts are higher revving engines with a centrifugal clutch that you must keep revving to keep the clutch fully locked up while the 3-cylinder engine has a hydraulically actuated clutch that locks up when you crack the throttle, and the triple is more of a torquer engine. The V-T engines had mechanical valve lifters that require periodic adjustment although many owners safely stretched the adjustment period a good bit, while the 3-cylinder engine has hydraulic valve lifters that never require adjustment. The 3-cylinder engine has significantly better fuel mileage than the V-Ts, and most significantly in the maintenance game, the triple's factory recommended oil change interval is 9,300 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first after the initial oil change at 3,000 miles, that's where the $$ savings comes in.

You simply need to look at your wallet and decide how much you want to spend. If you're going to run errands, IMO, your best bet is the RT model with its built-in cargo compartments. If you look for a 2014 or later RT that meets your budget and has been well maintained by the PO, you won't go wrong IF you like the way it rides and handles.

[ARtraveler]

I think I found an answer that is good enough for me. Not withstanding some type of extended warranty this might be a good GENERAL rule of thumb that works for my general info:

Average miles ridden in a year = 12000
Thats 1 valve adjustment at 1200
4 oil changes at 240.00
2160.00 in scheduled maintenance for 1 year, not including air filter, bearings, etc that BRP requires.


Going back to the Harley Davidson models to see if I want to keep my P/U��

RE: Valve adjustment....a $1,500 mistake. They were originally recommended at 28K miles on the 998 engines. I had two performed on my dollar on two different GS/RS models. There were NO adjustments needed. After that, the light went on for me. Dealers were using this as a "profit center" item. Many dealers said they performed the service without doing anything. No work...just keep the bike for two-three days and collect the money. The 2014 and up 1330's...do NOT require any valve adjustments.

[MRH]

Assuming it doesn't sit in the garage, I find I spend about 10 cents a mile at the end of the day, including some incidental upgrades. That said, being in SoCal, I have a better option for service than a typical dealer.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

RE: Valve adjustment....a $1,500 mistake. They were originally recommended at 28K miles on the 998 engines. I had two performed on my dollar on two different GS/RS models. There were NO adjustments needed. After that, the light went on for me. Dealers were using this as a "profit center" item. Many dealers said they performed the service without doing anything. No work...just keep the bike for two-three days and collect the money. The 2014 and up 1330's...do NOT require any valve adjustments.

you beat me to posting this ...... I dis-agree with Ron about brake pad re-placements ....25K for rear and 35K + for the fronts ..... Also if you can mount Auto tires add at least 10K to 15K to His numbers ..... All this involves doing your own " wrenching ".... Dealers can and will be very expensive .... The Folks on this forum have taught me a lot, and helped me do things I hadn't done before ..... Have you ridden one yet ????? .... we can help with that also ...... .....Mike

[Bfromla]

“Or similar“ considering the V twins now discontinued & all, probably best go take good look at Rykers & the many options solo& 2up as well as warranty’s. Take a class make sure fits whatever your goals are. Just a thought.

[Mikey]

Hey Folks,
I’m retired and we’re thinking about downsizing to one primary vehicle (SUV). I’m not interested in touring or long road trips. Local travel to work, errands, etc. a GS or RS (or similar). I’ve been told that annual maintenance costs would be more than my current full-size Toyota P/U. I can’t see that based on what I know generally about motorcycle maintenance. Am I missing something? Would appreciate any advice before I buy.

Many thanks!

Are you going to ride solo, or two up? Have you thought about a Ryker? Easy on the pocketbook, don't know from experience but seems like it would be easy to work on! There fun to drive. And if you think you're going to save money with a HD, hold on to your pocket book!

[safecracker]

On my 998. I changed the oil 2 times a year. I would use 5 quarts, 4 during oil change and the 5th one to top up between oil changes. The 998 does burn oil, it was designed to do this. A rear tire every other year. At 97,000 miles I never had the valves touched. My front brake pads were the original OEM's. I would goe through a set of pads in the rear every year. Basically around $300.00 per year average. I changed my on oil, pads, lights and tires. Bruce

[pegasus1300]

Hello Paul. Saw your post over on TrikeTalk.com. I have a 2012 V-Twin 998 RT. I have 79,000+ on it I change oil twice a year and I use Shell Rotella 5w40. It takes 4 qt plus a little to bring it up to the line. Between oil changes I add about a quart as the 998 uses oil, it was designed this way. I buy my oil at Walmart or on the net on sale. Usually under $18.00 a gallon. For the 4500 miles it is going to be in the engine it works very well. I buy my filters from BajaRon, one of the sponsors of this site. I usually buy 4 at a time. I have about 2 years of oil and oil filters on my shelf. I also do my own brakes (very simple) using EBC pads I get from BajaRon. His prices are lower than OEM on both filters and brakes. I have never done my valves based on others experience here and the Spyder seems to be running well. I am on my 2nd front set and 4th rear wheel set. They are both due for next spring. I have replaced the drive belt as the original drive belt started to shed teeth. Others have gone much farther on the OEM belt. I found a used drive belt in good shape low miles for $60 on ebay and changed it myself. The biggest problem I have now is if I do need something I can't do myself, then all dealers are very expensive, and many will no longer work on a 10+ year old Spyder. If you can do basic maintenance, you should get by fairly cheaply.